I just picked up my first Jeep, although I've been wheeling with Samurais, Broncos & 'yotas for a long time.
My new project is a '92 YJ, bone sotck other then a swap the last guy did by putting a 2000 2.5l in it.
Basically, it will be a daily driver but be ready for wheeling on the weekends. I will definetly take it through the 'con once a year as every rig I have goes through.
I know the owner of Full-Traction (www.full-traction.com) and I can get some good deals on their stuff, and my next door neighbor is godo friends with the owner of Tera Manufacturing. So I think I can get some good deals on parts across the board.
I need help in chosing what woudl work best for somethign to be driven as a daily, still work good off-road and not spend too much money.
I was looking at ful-traction's 5" YJ combo lift and throwing some 35"s under the rig. Probably BFGs.
THen I was thinking about going with 4.88:1's in the diffs and go with a standard 4:1 t-case reduction. I woudl also swap out the autmatic hubs for manual ones.
My only concern is how everyone seems to hate the axles under the Jeep. For someone that goes wheeling once a month and to Rubicon once a year, is it that much of a concern? is there a cheaper kit that swaps out the weaker point sin the axles (shafts, maybe a truss, etc? )
If your goal is a streetable, wheelable YJ on 35's, the easiest way to accomplish this would be to do an SOA on waggy D44's. If fullwidth scares you, then go with scout II D44's, and a transfer swap to accomodate the passinger's side dif. 4-cyl, 3spd scout II's are a common source of 4.09 gears, which while marginal will turn 35's untill you get the cash for 4.88's. Either way, your spring widh is already right, a definate plus. This would be far cheaper than ANY bolt-on lift and axle upgrades, as well as being stronger and better. Stock YJ springs NEED traction bars of some kind, to reduce axle wrap. There is plenty of info on both of these options posted here. Same for the SYE shit that you need to run lift with a 231. Good luck
Another vote on the Waggy 44s and definitely go SOA. That will be the best way to clear 35s. If you do not go SOA you will have to add a body lift on top of the suspesion lift unless you do not mind Mr. Sawzall. Do your research and do it right the first time instead of going through lift after lift before you find what works best (like I did). HTH
I did my wife's using a front RC44 from a '79 F-150. I had to narrow it 6", but I did the housing myself and had the shaft resplined for about $60. I used F-150 coil towers and Ford radius arms. (They act like a sway bar and make the jeep handle great. She wanted a rig that was capable of running 4+ trails and still be able to run up and down the highway) I found a 1/2 ton Dana 60 at Pick n pull for about $100 for the rear- It measures 60" so I didn't even have to cut it down. Here's a couple of pics. She now runs 35's on it. I also had to change to softer front coils from Wild Horses to get some more flex out of it. (I might wrist the radius arm soon also)
Ok, anyone got any write-ups with pictures on swapping Waggy D44's? I want a swap where I dont have to do too much custom, as its my daily driver. My last rig I customized everything (frame, suspension, drop perches, etc). I want to make this thing easier this time.
Also, I take it the stock leaf springs don't flex too much . . .
I myself had , or did the same set up that you are wanting to do , except i had only 456 gears , and i had the 4 cylinder , and i drive mine everyday. I- broke both of my front axles , and then i broke the drivers side rear , -I then desided to run G-rand waggoneer axles Dan 44's , and i did the spring over , I couldnt be more happy with it .. -I- now plan on putting an atlas in it , and running 37 inch tires.. -S-o if you keep the axles , be very careful , or it will be snap crackly POP....
Well for the most part the front is alright but the rear is junk. An easy 44 swap for the rear is out of a mid 70's Ford F100. It has a 61" wide 44 with the spring pads in the right spot or do the 95-up Ford 8.8 out of an Exploder. For the amount of wheeling you are talking about the 4-1 and a SYE for the t-case will do fine but an Atlas 3.8 isn't much more and then that is done! If the front has that vacuum coupling deal then change it now to a manual one but I don't think I would do the hub conversion because it is allot of $$$ for little gain. The Waggie 44 would be detter $$ spent and the 76-77.5 3/4 ton Ford RC44 would be even better.
So 70's D44's from fullsize Ford Truck would bolt underneath, because the perches are in the same spot. So the only thing I would need to do then is get the flange changed on the back of the driveshaft and get it lengthened 2-3" right?
Now that soudns like a good deal. My only question then I need to answer is if I can get 4.88's for a D44 Ford.
The SYE is more than just changing the flange and lengthening your driveshaft. It changes the whole output shaft (unless you get the hack-n-tap) and you need a new driveshaft with a slip in it.
So 70's D44's from fullsize Ford Truck would bolt underneath, because the perches are in the same spot. So the only thing I would need to do then is get the flange changed on the back of the driveshaft and get it lengthened 2-3" right?
Now that soudns like a good deal. My only question then I need to answer is if I can get 4.88's for a D44 Ford.
First, who cares if the perches are in the same spot? Grind them and weld some new ones on. (Theyre just perches for friggin sakes). Don't make an axle choice on the width of the perches. A Ford RC 44 Would be nice though. Waggy 44s F&R would be nice, with a springover. And YES I believe you can go up to 5.38s in a 44.
Ok, so it looks like the easiest way to do this woudl be to do a D44 F&R axles swap frmo a Wagoneer, keep the stock leaf springs for now and slap on the 33"s for the time being.
What year should I look for on F&R Wagoneer axles?
Also, how much wider are Wagoneer axles then stock? 2-3" a side? I want the extra width anyway . . .
Also, on the waggy D44s, are they easy to swap under? Other then welding some new perches on, I assume that the brake lines, driveshaft flanges, and draglink all match up since its all Jeep right? Did anyone have to make any custom parts to get them under there?
And also, what about the torque bar(s)? Did you put one back in there, and did you have to make it longer? Or did you say screw it and leave it out?
Doing a SPOA gives you enough room for 33"s right? So what is a good spring to replace the stock ones in a SPOA that allows you to fit 35"s?
If you're keeping the YJ t-case, look for an '81 an up Waggy front, the rears were AMC 20's until late eighties early nineties, a Scout II Dana 44 rear might be easier to find, Waggy width is about the same as your YJ axles, the Scout rear is a little narrower but not noticeable
i'd do the 8.8 swap in the rear and keep the D30 front if all you are planning on is 35's and misc wheelin. the 8.8 is easy to get- i paid $425 for a BRAND NEW one. i have a contact if you are interested. the D30 is fine with 35's as long as you upgrade your 260 u-joints to the 297's. the 95 YJ has 297's and you can buy new axles with the 297's all day that will fit yours.
then 8.8 is so little shorter than your 35 that it isn't even worth mentioning. it has disc brakes, 31 spline axles, bigger tubes than a 44, bigger ring and pinion than the 44.
i run this exact setup with 4.56's and detroits. lots of rocks and no problems with 35's.
I assume that the brake lines, driveshaft flanges, and draglink all match up since its all Jeep right? Did anyone have to make any custom parts to get them under there?
Uhhhh..... don't assume, especially when it comes to Jeep parts compatibility.
If no one else is going to do this, I will. Search!
A lot of people on this board have been through these steps before, and it's all in the archives. If you search around for a few minutes you'll get your answers a lot quicker.
Here are some of the searches that I would do if I were you.
YJ and SOA
YJ and dana 44
YJ and wagoneer
Slip yoke eliminator (SYE)
Hi steer*
Crossover steer*
TOTW - look for the one about SOA
Search for anything you can think of, and I bet you'll find something related, if not the exact answer you're looking for. I'm not trying to be a jerk, just lettin' ya know that the resource is there, use it.
Keep the Dana 30 front. Put 4:88 gears and some type of Locker that you desire. Be sure to up-grade to TJ axle shafts that come with the 297 U-joints.
For the rear axle - well trash it. Put in a 87-89 Cherokee Dana 44. 4:88 gears and a locker and your done. And this axle has the same wheel bolt pattern as you had before. And it's the same with as you have now.
I can see some of you guys LOVE spending other peoples money. If it were mine and I was only going to use it as you suggested, I would most likely add a 3.5-4.0" suspension lift, 2" body lift, sawzall the fenders, 33 MTR's, 4.56 gears with EZ locker front and rear, truss the rear, rock lock the front (get rid of the vacume) and/or swap front axle shafts to accomidate 297 joints and run with it like that until I started breaking shit.
Once things started snapping is when I'd start going bigger/stronger.
I can see some of you guys LOVE spending other peoples money. If it were mine and I was only going to use it as you suggested, I would most likely add a 3.5-4.0" suspension lift, 2" body lift, sawzall the fenders, 33 MTR's, 4.56 gears with EZ locker front and rear, truss the rear, rock lock the front (get rid of the vacume) and/or swap front axle shafts to accomidate 297 joints and run with it like that until I started breaking shit.
Once things started snapping is when I'd start going bigger/stronger.
Actually, I didn't forget that he mentioned that but he said "I was looking at ful-traction's 5" YJ combo lift and throwing some 35"s under the rig. Probably BFGs." That tells me that he was not really that positive about running 35's so I offered the suggestion of sticking with the stock axles and running 33's. You can do a hell of a lot on 33's and since its also a daily driver ('92) I would assume that the cash flow might be a little tight. Hence my suggestion of saving a little cash and working with what you've got.
I'f I'm wrong in my assumptions (wouldn't be the first time), then I would suggest something totally different.
First, who cares if the perches are in the same spot? Grind them and weld some new ones on. (Theyre just perches for friggin sakes). Don't make an axle choice on the width of the perches. A Ford RC 44 Would be nice though. Waggy 44s F&R would be nice, with a springover. And YES I believe you can go up to 5.38s in a 44.
Not everyone has a torch and or a welder that is good enough to weld the perches back on pluse it wasn't the only reason I stated for using it so don't jump all over me like I said something stupid.
To answer the other qusetion you can go all the way up to 5.89's in a standard rotation 44. If you do the SOA you will have plenty of room for 33's. Now the waggie 44 is not a bolt in deal it has 32" spring centers where your YJ has 30.75" spring centers so each side need the springs pushed out 5/8". I say don't worry so much about the front for now and just drive it like YOU own it. My 30 lasted for 6 years with 35's and i ran the rubicon and fordyce every year but it was only means of trans ort so I was pretty easy on it.
ANyway, I have an arc, grinder, tube bender, etc. I built my ast 'yota from scratch, built a flatbed, etc. So I have no problems with welding. I just don't want to do anything half ass, and I am not a professional fabricator . . .
Saving money is aplus, as this doesn't need to be a TOp Truck Challenge rig. it needs to make it through Rubicon next summer, and make it through the trails up here in Oregon.
I can get a free set of 33"s if I want, because when I sold my 'yota to my neigbor that was part of the deal we made (that he buys me a set).
Everyone seems to be under the opinion that the Reverse Cut front with TJ sticks and joints would work fine on 33"s, but maybe have a better potential for breakage on 35"s. So maybe I'll stick with 33"s this year.
I am cool with doing a SPOA on the front and popping in a Cherokee rear.
I'll get 5.38s for the diffs when I buy the axles so I don't have to blow cash on T-case gears until Spring.
I was just looking at x2_rage's situation and recalling what I've been through. Hell, I've got 4 Jeep's in various states of disrepair 3 of which are not functional at this time.
I'll just reiterate my thoughts...33's you'll be fine on stock axles even if they are locked if you only plan on doing some weekend wheeling with it. I'd definately carry spare axles both front and rear, but for the most part, you'll have a great time with the proper suspension without any issues.
Take some time with it and enjoy what you have while taking your time researching and building it to where you want it to be. There is no reason to jump to 35's, 44's and whatever else right away. I know you have wheeled before but this is not the same vehicle as you are accustomed to.
If money is not an issue that's cool, but I will assume it is. Acumulate parts slowly...over time...and then hit it hard over one weekend and be done...for now.
I would go 44's or 60's front and rear, or the 14 bolt is a good option too. shave it up a bit and it'll be "ok" on 35's.
for 35's all you need is dana 44's...I would ditch the 30/35 as soon as is feasable.
the 2.5 is a dog. you are a toy man so you know that lack of power can easily be made up with gearing but I would look for a good 4.0 to drop in there (at a minimum.)
springover on a set of factory wrangler leafs mixed with a second factory wrangle leaf pack (5-7 leafs) keeps the beter ride and will help to prevent sag a lot and wrap a little....
keep in mind that do it just to get it up and you'll be re-doing it for a long time from here out......trust me.
mkbruin, I agree completely. I don't want to doa a SPOA on th stock axles and then redo it 6 months later. I think the best plan is to grab some Cherokee F&R and drop them in, it sems to be the least painful way and I get good benefits out of it.
Regarding the 2.5L, I hear that its gutless, but in my rig its got a hell of a lot of power. I can roast the tires without much effort, she just keeps going up hills in any gear . . . sahe feels a lot better then my 4 banger did in the 'yota. I heard that its easy to get the 2000+ 2.5L to 160HP with standard igntiion, exhaust, air intakte mods. That seems to sound like the better option since I like the gas mileage (as you can see in my singature, I have a '95 cherokee withe 4.0 and its a gas hog).
I think with proper gearing I'll be fine with it. If not, then I'll go with a 4.0 in a few years.
I've been out of wheeling for 6 months since I sold my yota and I need to get back on the trails!!!!
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