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TOTW: Keeping it cool

10K views 44 replies 35 participants last post by  BossBuilt 
#1 · (Edited)
Welcome to the next installment of the

Topic of the Week

Well, this would have been a better topic back in April/May, but better late than never.

You've dropped in a hot little V8. You've got an aftermarket radiator with no fan shroud. You've got that 8274 blocking half the grille.

What do you do to keep it cool?

2 vs 3 vs 4 core
Brass vs Aluminum
pusher vs puller
 
#2 ·
@$180 for an aluminum radiator I think it is $$$ well spent. Also I run the fan that pulls the most air and don't worry about the lost power it might rob. Anyway you don't want a flex fan on a Jeep that just might be doing some water X'ings or you just might be replacing the radiator again.
 
#4 ·
Ewww... this topic hits home, as far as I know I am the only guy to vapor lock a fuel rail in a CJ in 30 degree weather..

I run a notriously hot running 416 cubic inch SB chevy I wanted to keep the Jeep look and not cut the front end apart and remove the fenders (YET) After several failed attempts I did this, I sawzalled a 27.5x19" Griffin Alum Radiator in the grill with the stock AC evaporator and fuel cooler. I got a SPAL dual 11" electric fan setup that pulls 2800 CFM, the shroud on the fan just about covers the entire radiator lacks only 1/2" or so top and bottom, this is the key to cooling, you need a shroud the directs the air thru the entire radiator.

After I got this setup in there the cooling was pretty good but I needed better, I installed a set of louvers in the hood, very similar to the ones they put in the 5.9l Grand Cherokee's, now I am able to keep it in the 180 range even when it is pushing 100 outside. :D
 
#6 ·
I run a large brass radiator with 2 puller electric fans, no inner fenders and manage to keep my 455 Buick at about 210 crawling in the Arizona heat. It usually sticks around 180-190 in the Non June - August months, or on night runs.
I went with the brass Radiator because I find it easier to do permanent repairs while on the trail, (Solders easier, or maybe I'm just used to them).
The electric fans are as close as you can get a fan to a Radiator without having to worry about a mechanical fan gouging the core, and they cover a large percentage of the radiator surface area.
I can shut them off for water crossings, mud hole runs, etc. plus, I can leave them on after the motor is off for added cooling.
The lack of inner fenders help get the heat out as well.
 
#7 ·
yldkat said:
The electric fans are as close as you can get a fan to a Radiator without having to worry about a mechanical fan gouging the core, and they cover a large percentage of the radiator surface area.
I can shut them off for water crossings, mud hole runs, etc. plus, I can leave them on after the motor is off for added cooling.
These are good points. When I shut down, I can immediately walk over to the radiator, and it'll be cool enough to touch.

Also, I spied a 74 Dodge W300 radiator in NAPA Monday that looks like it's about the same size as a CJ, fairly thick, and has the Chevy hose configuration. FYI, something to consider. (I didn't measure or have ever seen one used)

Bryan
 
#8 ·
1.) Proper mix of antifreeze and water, at the correct level, additives if you like, but used as they were designed to.

2.) Good quality cooling system parts in good condition, leave the race parts for the 1/4 mile guys, 9 times out of 10, good factory stuff is best.

3.) Good quality aluminum radiator, as big as you can fit, don't be afraid to cut and modify.

4.) Factory mechanical fan with good shroud is best, if a mechanical fan is impossible, electric puller.

5.) Skip the aftermarket bling bling electrical fan setups and find a junkyard factory electric fan off a late model car, again, factory is good.

6.) Provide addequate air flow to the radiator, try some ducting under that winch if you can't move it.

7.) Give the air someplace to go after the radiator, so more fresh air can come in, you can pass more air through a hose than a balloon.

8.) Swap out that hot V8 for a cucumber cool 4cyl :flipoff2:
 
#9 ·
If ya run in the swamps, put a piece of screen in front of the grill. When the temps start to rise, unhook the screen, clean the goo off of it, reattach it, and off ya go.
 
#12 ·
A company named Northern makes a radiator in a number of different sizes in GM/Ford and Chrysler port configuration.
They are all aluminum construction, furnace brazed, 2 row 1" tubes.
They come in different widths from 21-3/8" to 30-7/8" with 1-1/2" and 1-3/4" neck sizes. I called the company and they told me as far as mounting, you could weld brackets to either tank without affecting the warr.
Their phone # is 320-235-2288 call for local dealer
These rads are not expensive at all!!
 
#13 ·
I never considered cutting out the fender wells as an option because I didnt want the tire to fling mud and rock up onto my moter. Instead I did this
 

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#16 ·
well im running a hopped up 401 with a stock 6cyl cj radiator.. no problems here..
since i have a remote oil filter.. with cooler.. dual pickups.. a mechanical fan.. with shroud..
if its 90+ out.. and im running 65+ on the freeway.. itll step up to about 210... 75+ she hits 215... havent had it over 85 yet for any extended periods... but on the trail... its 180 all day long..

i also believe factory is best.. mech. fan with shroud.. does wonders.. a good oiling system is also great.. plus with the remote i dont drain oil all over my front axle...
 
#17 ·
5.0 HO engines are cool running engines as far as high performance V8 engines go, and with my cooling system, I have never had any probs.
I run an aluminum 2 core (1" tubes) radiator, with a 185 degree T stat, and 21lb cap.
The fan is 19" from a Lincoln Mark VII, with a 185 degree T stat clutch.
I run a stock Ford water pump.
The headers are heat wrapped, the fenders are opened and the hood has a large rearward facing scoop.
The fan sits about 1 1/2" from the radiator, but I do not run a cowling, (I used to, but it made no difference removing it in my case).
Since I dont have to worry about boil over, I only run enough antifreeze to keep corosion to a minimum durring the summer months.
At 80 mph running uphill, in 100 degree weather, It wont hit 200 degrees. On the trail at the hammers in the middle of summer it wont hit 190. Running the sand dunes at the hammers, or even breaking trail in heavy snow, I will go a tad over 200.

I tried a black magic fan for a V8 mustang, and it was a joke, the temp was always above 200 degrees.
 
#19 ·
yldkat said:
Holy pressure cooker!
a 21 PSI radiator cap?
I must really be old school thinking Fords ran 13 PSI caps and GM ran 16 PSI.

Yeah you really need to have a tight cooling system to run the 21 pounder.
I guess a lot of the circle track guys run em.
I got mine from Speedway.
I also carry a spare 13 psi,(the one on the overflow reservoir) in case I have to drive out on a repaired radiator.
 
#20 ·
Try to avoid using those universal flex hoses on engine swaps, they are too restrictive. A little time at the parts store will usually net you a premolded hose that will work. Do not go too low on the thermostat temp as this can let the water circulate too quickly for the radiator to cool. And be environmentally friendly and run a sealed system with a burp tank.
 
#21 ·
Ive got a hot 400sbc (60 over, yuk!), 10.5:1 pistons, TBI. I run a griffin, mech fan with no clutch. when the hell am I going to buzz 7000 rpm anyway. Im plenty cold on the trail, but when I git it on the stupid pedal, she will climb to 220 or so...takes FOREVER to come back down. I may add a little pusher fan, and a fan shroud for the mech fan. The bigger problem is keeping that damn th350 cool...
 
#23 ·
454, TH350 in YJ with external trans cooler, Lincoln fan module, puller (cut in 1/2) no mechanical fan, Northern aluminum 2 row, no shroud, off road--bolt on pusher fan (Aries K car) over grille, on road 210* all the time, off road 220*-230* without 2nd fan, with 2nd fan 205* off road
 
#25 ·
I could be wrong, but I always thought regular radiators were made out of Brass, copper would corrode too quick. The fins that are on the outside of the tubes may be copper, could this be where the confusion is coming from?
:confused:
 
#26 ·
hell i run a 25lb cap and a custom 4 row that my buddy made (owns a rad shop) with a 17" IMCA (good up to 9000 rpm) fixed blade fan with a custom shroud. that fan will pull small birds into the grill:D runs 200 no matter what.

Chris G.
 
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