soa yj full width dana 60 swap

[turbo93svt]

my question is i have a full width ford dana 60 that i want to put in my 94 yj i would like to keep from moving the springs out and still keep it full width, has anyone done this swap and if so any help would be greatly appreciated

[bigbaggedbeast]

you can't ...

[JustPunchIt]

Do it... bolts right in... oh and use Jb weld if you must.

[jeeperrog]

Sure you can! If you don't mind running the axle offset the passenger side - it would look cool with the passenger tire sticking way out and the drivers tire tucked in the fender...

It's the chunk of the Dana 60 - '79 and earlier Dana 60s have the chuck more to the center than the later ones, but the chuck is in the way of the drivers side leaf spring perch location on all of them.

[turbo93svt]

I never thought i would bolt right in, I am asking these questions because i was trying not to have to spend $500 + for a btf kit

[turbo93svt]

thanks for the info Jeeperrog i appreciate the info, I had hoped i could do something but i guess not

[YJPep]

Which year is the 60 out of?
The 1978~1979 will pretty much bolt right up.
The later models will require some work.

I have a 1989 under my YJ. I cut 6" out of the long side, and run drw hubs.

[turbo93svt]

Originally Posted by YJPep

Which year is the 60 out of?
The 1978~1979 will pretty much bolt right up.
The later models will require some work.

I have a 1989 under my YJ. I cut 6" out of the long side, and run drw hubs.

I beleive it is out of a 97 or so, it is a balljoint 60 front i had thought about cutting it down but i also have a 14 bolt rear going in it i would have to cut too and i have been told there is an advantage to running full width for stability. thanks for the help too.

[Cheepin]

Originally Posted by turbo93svt

I never thought i would bolt right in, I am asking these questions because i was trying not to have to spend $500 + for a btf kit

SO don't!Fab it up yourself.Not very hard.Search on here,you will find many sho have done it themselves.

[retardatwork]

dont do the fullwidth BTF kit! It was not very well thought out. You will have to cut and turn the knuckles if you run anything other than a flat spring and if you run a 35 and up you have to cut the shit out of the inner fender and the side of the jeep. The front hanger sticks down too far and the rear hanger is limited to how far you raise it on the frame because the shackle will rub a fucking hole through the frame rail even if you mount the bottom flush with the frame. On my cj I lost wheelbase and had to cut it all of and basically weld it to the end of the frame instead of where they have the mounting holes which match the stock frame hole location. I was not able to use YJ springs because even moving the kit forward was not enough to get back to stock wheelbase. I had to use CJ rears and still lost a 1/2 inch. The rear mount for the shackle uses bushingings like the front spring eye which fucks up the shackle since the rear spring bushings are 1/2 more narrow than the front bushing setup. I wish I would have gone with the shackles in front, way less problems with clearance. The guys are fucking with you you have to outboard unless you cut down one side. Out boarding is super simple once you do it twice.

[turbo93svt]

Originally Posted by retardatwork

dont do the fullwidth BTF kit! It was not very well thought out. You will have to cut and turn the knuckles if you run anything other than a flat spring and if you run a 35 and up you have to cut the shit out of the inner fender and the side of the jeep. The front hanger sticks down too far and the rear hanger is limited to how far you raise it on the frame because the shackle will rub a fucking hole through the frame rail even if you mount the bottom flush with the frame. On my cj I lost wheelbase and had to cut it all of and basically weld it to the end of the frame instead of where they have the mounting holes which match the stock frame hole location. I was not able to use YJ springs because even moving the kit forward was not enough to get back to stock wheelbase. I had to use CJ rears and still lost a 1/2 inch. The rear mount for the shackle uses bushingings like the front spring eye which fucks up the shackle since the rear spring bushings are 1/2 more narrow than the front bushing setup. I wish I would have gone with the shackles in front, way less problems with clearance. The guys are fucking with you you have to outboard unless you cut down one side. Out boarding is super simple once you do it twice.

Thank you for the info, i am thinking now about cutting them down, I just dont know yet if i want to, thanks again for helping me out

[LCAC_Man]

Originally Posted by YJPep

I cut 6" out of the long side, and run drw hubs.

X2..gives you a track width that will allow you to fit on a standard 82" wide trailer if you run stock H1's...

[retardatwork]

you cant down the front. You will have drag link interference with the springs just sitting on flat ground and your pinion will be pointing down at the ground. You would have to raise the back shackle mount but that would mean notching the frame for the movement of the shackle. Your YJ may have different results but I suggest you measure a shitload first and write everything down. A plump bob and square will help you mark reference points on the ground.

[The Phenx]

Tis why I went with the wagoneer d44 front w/high steer Easier and cheaper, and plenty strong if your staying 37's or less.

And If you want to do SOA with it... I have the templates for making the correct brackets to hold it all together. Just leme know.

[jpfrk2001]

I transplanted a HP60 from a 89 F350 The details start on page 4. I basically kept the shackles in the front, built a front basterd leaf pack to keep it low, moved the front axle forward 3.1" for a gain in WB, turned out great:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=619003&page=4

I barely rub the springs at full lock when running 40's on H-2 wheels. It works great, climbs great. I do get a little hope on really steap climbs, but what can you do. I did it all on a good budget but still kept everything in good quality where it counts.

[bigred97tj]

i havnt completed mine yet< but dan at ruff stuff (in the vendor section)was a great help! I got all the brackets thru him at a great price i think...All of the stuff i recieved is VERY beefy

good luck

[jpfrk2001]

Originally Posted by bigred97tj

i havnt completed mine yet< but dan at ruff stuff (in the vendor section)was a great help! I got all the brackets thru him at a great price i think...All of the stuff i recieved is VERY beefy

good luck

I fully agree with running products from Dan at Ruff Stuff. Super beefy parts and super fast shipping. I have him on speed dial in my cell phone

[YJPep]

Depending on what you want when you are all finished, you may want to sell that balljoint axle and get a kingpin axle.

The king pin axle makes high steer a lot easier. The high steer is good for steering geometry and there will be less problems with draglink and spring interference.

I have a 1994 wrangler with RE SOA springs in the stock locations. I achieved good pinion angle and caster without turning the knuckles.

Cutting the longside down was not that big of a deal. I just followed the writeups I found on this site. Did it in my garage with a chop saw. I sent the axle shaft to Moser for cut an respline.

It all fit together real well.

[CJ4U2NV]

This is full width, not cut down, SOA/SRS and it was no problem. I can also put it on my trailer with about 1"-2" to spare on each side. And being a CJ it's supposed to be more difficult than a YJ

[turbo93svt]

Originally Posted by YJPep

Depending on what you want when you are all finished, you may want to sell that balljoint axle and get a kingpin axle.

The king pin axle makes high steer a lot easier. The high steer is good for steering geometry and there will be less problems with draglink and spring interference.

I have a 1994 wrangler with RE SOA springs in the stock locations. I achieved good pinion angle and caster without turning the knuckles.

Cutting the longside down was not that big of a deal. I just followed the writeups I found on this site. Did it in my garage with a chop saw. I sent the axle shaft to Moser for cut an respline.

It all fit together real well.

Thanks so much for your help i am thinking about cutting my long side down and narrowing my 14 bolt rear as well, i like the idea of added stability for full width but i like the way it will fit on a trailer better with less width. The wrangler in the pic is not full width? is this the one you cut the long side down on?

[turbo93svt]

Originally Posted by jpfrk2001

I transplanted a HP60 from a 89 F350 The details start on page 4. I basically kept the shackles in the front, built a front basterd leaf pack to keep it low, moved the front axle forward 3.1" for a gain in WB, turned out great:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=619003&page=4

I barely rub the springs at full lock when running 40's on H-2 wheels. It works great, climbs great. I do get a little hope on really steap climbs, but what can you do. I did it all on a good budget but still kept everything in good quality where it counts.

thank you very much for all the information, i am trying to decide if i want to cut down the long side and narrow my 14 bolt to match or stay full width at this point, i will be running somewhere between 38 - 42" tires i am still undecided and i know the full width will add stability but the narrower i guess has its advantages too, thanks again

[turbo93svt]

thank you to everyone who has given me this information, i do appreciate it and it is helping me to decide what to do.

[brokejeep]

There are both positives and negatives to the BTF stuff.When I started looking around at options for what to do with my recently obtained Ford King Pin 60s,I had no tools or experience.I ended up going with BTF because they had good feed back and answered all my questions with out issue.It was simple,cut the existing junk off my frame ,clean it,weld on there stuff.Done.I was new and had many questions along the way but they were always cool,and patient with me.I am as satisfied as i can be,considering some of the NASA quality workmanship that is on this site,that I have to compare my YJ to.My YJ works good,the only problems that I have had can be traced back to me getting impatient and bending a front spring.That changed the way that the front end traveled,resulting in pinion dive and a broke yoke.
I am running the RE 2.5 spring over that have a tendency to wrap horribly when unloaded(weight off the spring pack)I have seen my wife drive the truck,and the springs just wrap like crazy,causing pinion dive.This could be solved by a flat spring,turning the outers,Frenching the shackles or using a military wrap spring.I need new fronts ,so I am going to have my local spring shop make me up a set to fit my needs.
Build info.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...010&highlight=

[theydontstop]

I put a 96 BJ D60 in my YJ but did a little cutting and re-tubing. Started with the stock axle, re-tubed the shortside 1.75" longer and cut the longside 4" shorter, making the axle 67" WMS and also uses a standard chevy shortside inner shaft. I could now use the spring perch cast into the axle and went with SOA stock rear YJ leafs with a double main leaf(very flat spring). I also stretched the axle 2.5" forward and did a shackle reversal with the upper shackle mounts through the frame.

[theydontstop]

Originally Posted by brokejeep

I am running the RE 2.5 spring over that have a tendency to wrap horribly when unloaded(weight off the spring pack)I have seen my wife drive the truck,and the springs just wrap like crazy,causing pinion dive.This could be solved by a flat spring,turning the outers,Frenching the shackles or using a military wrap spring.I need new fronts ,so I am going to have my local spring shop make me up a set to fit my needs.

I had that same problem with my springs and started running a center limit strap on the front axle so the springs don't unload alot. I'm am running ~2" uptravel and 13" downtravel and a limit strap that is 1" longer than the attachment points at ride height. Rig still fully flexes but doesn't unload and wrap as bad and the springs are definitely lasting longer.