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Waggy Front D44 Brake disk help

886 views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  JnJ 
#1 ·
Does the disk seperate from the hub? If so, how? I've heard of folks using the disk for a rear disk setup, but with the hub on it, it don't make since.
BTW, this is out of a 81 Waggy.

Thanks,
 
#2 ·
Uhh......no, every time you wear out a rotor, you have to replace the whole truck.

The rotor comes off the back of the hub, drive the wheel studs out and the rotor just knocks off the back of the hub. Oh yeah, you have to take the tire off first, and the caliper and hub too. :flipoff2:
 
#4 ·
JnJ said:
Do I have to replace the whole truck? Can't I just replace the axle assembly?:flipoff2:
I have it all torn down but was unsure how to seperate the disk. Any suggestions on how to "drive" the studs out without damaging them?

Thanks again,
Wow, how mechanically UNinclined...:flipoff2:

How about a Hammer and a brass drift..or even a piece of 2x4...;)
 
#6 · (Edited)
Mechanically Declined?

The beauty of the human skull is that no matter how thick it may be, it is still quite soft, much like a dead blow hammer, so, you could simply pound you head against the wheel stud until it pops out, granted you may lose consciousness several times in order to remove all twelve wheel studs from both hubs. Maine Jeepah obviously uses his face for such tasks, with good results, so that my be an option too (sorry MJ, but that avatar cracks my ass up)

You could thread a nut down on the stud and slip an old socket over it (belt and suspenders, or, rubber and pill if you like) Or an air chisel will push them puppies out in no time. Make some attempt to line up the splines in the stud with the spines in the hub when you re-install, or you'll cut new ones and the stud will eventually spin.

As for using standard six lug front rotors for a rear six lug disk swap, I'd use late model 1/2 ton Chevy rotors, they should have enough "hat" clearance to slip over your existing axle flange, eliminating the need to remove the axle to install the rotor, but will most likely require longer studs, as will installing the rotor on the back of the rear axle flange.
 
#10 ·
4-Banger is right on the rear axle maneuver. I am using post '88 rotors and calipers with my rear Waggy axle. Pre '88 rotors have too small of an inner diameter of the hat to fit over the OD of the axle flange. My setup is such that it can swap right out with bone stock Waggy shafts (cheap, plentiful field replacement H/W, don'tja know), using original wheel studs. The clearance holes for the rotors are huge relative to the studs, so either press in new studs, or make cylindrical spacers. . . .

Smaller calipers may also work, but I have heard that they struggle with higher amounts of rolling inertia, like 38"+ tires, so I am setting up FS Cheb calipers. Let ya know how it goes when I get there. . . .

Good luck, Geesh
 
#11 ·
Well after many welts on the forehead, I gave up on the head pounding idea and used my shop press. Studs came out with no problems.
I usually like to just jump-in and try stuff, but lately I've found it can get expensive (regearing) so I'm asking questions first. Some times you find someone who has found a simpler way to do something. That is what makes these board valueable. Of course you do have to wade through the shitting responses too.

Geesh,
When you say post 88 disk, form what application? Also can you give me some details on the caliper and mount you used? I'd like to have an emergancy brake so I'm leaning towards the caddy caliper. Thoughts?
 
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