|11-17-2009, 04:36 PM||#1 (permalink)|
JBR2 FAQ ---Doing your own gears
Topic: Doing Your Own Gears
Written by: _peteyg
Lots of people ask, "How do I re-gear my vehicle? Can I do it myself? Is it easy?"
The answers are:
First, read THISWhile there is lots of great tech in the gear bible, I do find that I do some things differently, and there are some basic tools that you must have before you start:
Once you have your tools ready, dive in. First you need to take the old gears out.
Step One: Remove the axles
There are several different axle types that you could encounter when doing your gears. In the rear, you will almost always encounter either flanged, c-clip, or full float axles. Each has a different method for being pulled. The only real one that takes special knowledge are c-clip axles (such as a Ford 8.8 or Dana 35). If you are removing c-clip axles, you first have to pull the diff cover and remove the pinion shaft by removing the pinion shaft lock bolt. This bolt uses factory loc-tite, and can be a real PITA. On the Ford and Dana axles, it is a 5/16th 12-point head, and you must use a 12-point socket. I keep a set of small 12-point sockets just for this. Do not use too much force on this bolt. If it breaks, many hours of frustration and heartache will ensue. I find that a small propane torch does the trick to release the loc-tite of I can't get the bolt loose.Step Two: Remove the carrier
In order to remove the carrier, you will need to remove the carrier bearing caps. Before you do this, use the hammer and punch to mark the bearing caps in such a way that you can put them back on the same side and in the same orientation as they came off. I always put one dot at the top of the right side cap and a corresponding dot next to it on the housing, and two dots on the left. Simple and effective.
Step 3: Remove the Pinion Gear
Use the pipe wrench to hang onto the pinion yoke and take the pinion nut off. You can use an impact wrench to remove the pinion nut, but not to install one. You may have to persuade the yoke off the pinion gear. Use the hammer. If you are going to save the gears, do not hit the pinion with the hammer to remove it. First thread the old pinion nut back onto the pinion and THEN hit it to remove it from the housing. This will save the threads. Used gears are worth money, so it's a good idea to try to save them.Step 4: Put the new gears together
4a. Assemble the carrier
4b. Assemble the pinion gearStep 5: Install the new gears in the housing
5a: Install the pinion gear
5b. Install the carrier and ring gear.
Step 6: Re-assemble the axle
Now that your gears are set and you've set your contact pattern, it's time to reassemble the axle. Pull the pinion nut off, douse the yoke threads with red loc-tite, and run the nut back to to 150 ft. lb. Then reinstall the axles, put the wheels on, fill the differential with gear oil (don't forget friction modifier if you're using a limited slip), and go wheeling!ok, guys...pick away! Lets make this a great gear write-up.
If you disagree with a method or have a better way to do something, let me know and I'll adjust the write up accordingly. Remember, this is targeted at the shadetree mechanic, not a gear pro.
Last edited by IndyCJ; 11-17-2009 at 05:53 PM.
|11-17-2009, 04:56 PM||#2 (permalink)|
Join Date: Feb 2008
Member # 108799
I like to make set up bearings out of the old ones. Just grind a little out of the ID and take a little off the pinon race. Also I don't put the crush sleeve in until the very end, just snug the pinion nut for set up. Also another great trick is I cut a small piece of tube and use it in place of the yoke so you don't have to beat the yoke on and off. Just one mans thoughts. Great thread.
|11-17-2009, 07:37 PM||#4 (permalink)|
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 99513
Location: On the move
ok, I'll bite:
I ended up using a steering wheel puller to pull off the yoke from the pinion Gear. Worked like a charm and very smooth. No wacking or bangin needed when setup properly. I used the used pinion nut for setting up the gears. When all was set up, and ready for final install, thats when I used the brand new pinion nut with ALOT of threadlock.
Take the time to convert your used bearings to set ups. Trust me, it really helps in time and less aggrivation when your on your umpteenth attempt pass at hoping to get that good set up.
Setting up used gears is a royal PITA!!! Not reccomended, especially when attempting your first gear change
A chunk of 2"x4" wood will do wonders when installing the inner pinion race on a D60. Brass drifts for all other works when driving races in.
Keep your area clean and tidy when doing this type of work. Its like performing surgery, the cleaner/organized you are, the easier it is to pay attention and not get lost.
I measered each individual shim and used a marker to write on that shim the thickness of it. Then I made individual stacks of each size. So when came time to adjust, I could make up a thickness stack of choice and continue on. This made the adjustment process easier and quicker.
Use baby oil to thin down the gear marking compound and almost doubling your marking compound supply. It also makes it easier to read.
Swapping Front ends:
|11-18-2009, 06:50 AM||#5 (permalink)|
Join Date: Sep 2000
Member # 1760
Location: in your Mom ...Oregon
Also, great thread.Nice Job!
Sent from my ASS, via shit-de-phone.
Last edited by BossBuilt; 11-18-2009 at 06:51 AM.
|11-18-2009, 07:01 AM||#6 (permalink)|
Join Date: Mar 2006
Member # 69669
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Before starting verify you have to proper gears (standard cut/reverse cut, thick/thin, ratio). MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A MATCHING SET! This in itself can save you a ton of time, TRUST ME!
Most pinion nuts are distorted thread top lock nuts, always use the old one. Using the new one on intial set-ups can distroy the pinion threads. What I like to do is grind off the top of the OLD nut and put a dab of gear oil on the threads, verify the nut screws on pinion easily prior to installation.
Diluting marking compound is an excellent way to get a good reading, it also is a good idea to wedge in a chunk of wood in between the ring gear and housing. Turn by sliding in a shaft and turn with that.
If the carrier is stuck, one way to get it out is to put a boxed in wrench on a ring gear bolt that is at the bottom of the housing pointing down, and put a wrench on one of the top bolts and turn the top wrench clockwise prying the lower wrench agaisnt the housing. Hope that makes sense!
Once proper pinion pre-load is acheived, I like to tap both sides of the pinion with a brass draft to verify it's fully seated. Then double check pre-load.
Always lube all bearings with gear oil prior to installation.
I personally check B/L and pattern in ~4 DIFFERENT places.
If a crush sleeve is giving you a hard time, eg won't crush with 550 lb/ft, you can start it on a press. Just be careful not to overcrush it!
Using set-up bearings can throw off the final pattern, in my experience ones that are in good shape usually don't. Just make sure to use the finial race's and you should be alright. If you don't have pinion set-up bearings, insteed of beating on the pinion to get it out you can hit the back with a air chisel.
As with everything, the proper tools make a huge difference. Case spreader, clamshell bearing puller, in/lb dial indicator torque wrench, etc.
Be patient, be clean, be neat.
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93 YJ N/A 383 on 'pane 405hp/435tq NV4500 6.34:1 231/300 10.88:1 Locked Tons 5.38's 40's 108" WB Gettin' There :grinpimp:
Last edited by email@example.com; 11-18-2009 at 07:53 AM.
|02-02-2010, 09:08 AM||#7 (permalink)|
Sorry for bringin back an old thread, but just wanted to say that theses are excellent tips for a newby to gear setup. Does anyone have a preferance on the make of the tool's like the Dial indicator, in lbs torque wrench, digital calipers? ( AKA: Snap On, Mac....ect perferably a cheaper tool than these as I can't afford most of the name brand tools. Thanks Gents.
"When in Doubt use the vice grips, and Tiger Woods that $hit!"