Figured I should post here so I can get some extra tips and pointers as I go along...
Decided to take my TJ and retire the body as well as most of the frame. Going to build it for a dual purpose trail rig but something that may also get my foot in the door with comps as well.
Here she sits right now:
Pile of tubing waiting to be bent up:
Axles. HP60 and 14 bolt. May get rid of the HP60 though in favor of a chevy 60 thats passenger drop.
This was idea number 1 for the start of the chassis, but I am still trying to decide how much of the frame I want to keep.
Rear suspension will be a double triangulated 4 link with air shocks. Front will be a 3 link w/ pan hard and air shocks.
Air shocks for the rear are coming. Coil overs for the front should be going out tomorrow. Dual master cylinders are in the mail. Deep trans pan arrived the other day.
Left to order:
Crawl Box
Hydro Steering kit
Steering shaft, steering wheel, disconnect
Driveshafts
Shifters
1 more seat
damn it I hate watching builds like this! i'm getting ready to do a 5.7L swap and no you got me thinkin of chopping everything up and getting a little crazy with the bender again! cool build looking forward to the out come!:smokin:
Looks good but I think your rear axle truss is very week. Just my opinion but I don't think it will survive the first outing. It will bend at best and break in half thus ruining your yoke, drive shaft, u-joint, brake lines, etc at worst. Add a second hoop and some vertical bracing at least. I'm not bashing on your fab skills I just have a truss thats 2 hoops with vertical braceing and it has bent and shifted. I had to add a lot of reinforcement and it still worries me!
And now is where I have some issues...
Not sure how I am going to work steering and the pan hard bar.
This where I wanted full bump. Was going to run the arms for the full hydro on the lower side of the high steer arms:
I could run my pan hard mount angled down like so. I would also need to angle the pan hard more towards the front of the chassis on the driver side frame mount:
Front links are do. Still need to address the steering and pan hard bar though. I think the pan hard is going to go straight above the axle and notch the frame a little bit. Steering will be mounted on the lower factory knuckles.
PSC full hydro is ordered. Crawl box is ordered. Might go ahead and order the shifters right now as well.
Coilovers will be here Friday. Springs should be here Thurs. Air shocks should be here by Thurs. CNC dual masters showed up today!
Going to bend the pedal levers closer together. Also going to drill a hole in both levers and use a cotter pin to make it a single pedal for basic trail riding, WErock, and any street driving.
While waiting for the rest of the parts, thought it would be a good time to start getting the interior area situated. Right now I am debating switching to right hand drive just for a cool factor.
I decided to knock out the bar I tacked in for the harnesses and push the seat back a little bit. Right now my head is sitting directly under the B pillar. Gives a little bit more leg room and should give me some extra options while mounting pedals and the steering column.
Oh and I remembered the mess of wires to deal with... Anyone know where I can find a factory wiring diagrams so I can eliminate some of this mess?
Tonight I am going to bend up some more tube. Hopefully get most of the interior tacked in tomorrow.
Little bit more work today. Coil overs came in this evening so got them mounted up. Also got my 1350 yoke from Chase at East Coast Gear Supply! Great guy to work with! Still waiting on the air shocks, crawl box, and steering kit. Hopefully all of that will come in with enough time to get it all done by May 1st.
lil fyi, front frame chops aren't really legal for class 3, but the few guys that have done them, have replaced the front sections of the frame with identical size box tubing and the frame lands back at its original height and length. You gained 3-4" of front clearance with your front frame chop, and if you plan on doing RCrocs you might get called down on that. You might want to cut them off and angle them down so you do not have any advantage over anyone else so no one will give you any trouble. Take it as you will.
I appreciate the input. The frame actually sticks out an 1" further and and is the same height as well. I already spoke with the guys that run tech to clearify if it would be fine. The only reason it was done was to make mounting everything easier on the fresh frame and to meet the specs for WErock.
Never haha. It was actually cheaper for my two pick up this compared to any single wheel, dual axle gooseneck within a 3 hour area from me. Shit it was about the same price as just an 18ft deck over.
Air shocks came in today. Got them mounted up on the rear, pulled the coils from the coil overs and played around with the steering some to figure out the right height I wanted. Right now she is sitting at full bump, going to roll her around the lift to get the rest finished up.
Rear setup
Playing around with full bump on the front. This is with the TR on the high steer arms:
Switching to factory TR holes
Decided to use the factory TR holes on the knuckles and build the steering off of them. Changed up my coil over mounts to drop them down 2" from where they were before. So here she sits at full bump:
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