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Orange Peel - Juggy Build

81K views 291 replies 68 participants last post by  mferrari 
#1 ·
Figured I should post here so I can get some extra tips and pointers as I go along...

Decided to take my TJ and retire the body as well as most of the frame. Going to build it for a dual purpose trail rig but something that may also get my foot in the door with comps as well.

Here she sits right now:



Pile of tubing waiting to be bent up:


Axles. HP60 and 14 bolt. May get rid of the HP60 though in favor of a chevy 60 thats passenger drop.


This was idea number 1 for the start of the chassis, but I am still trying to decide how much of the frame I want to keep.



Rear suspension will be a double triangulated 4 link with air shocks. Front will be a 3 link w/ pan hard and air shocks.
 
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#91 ·
Does not look like she will be done by May 1st. Had a couple of local businesses that said they would sponsor the rig and give some last minute parts flake out, also having to re-do the trans cross member to clear the DS and front output.

Going to go ahead and slow down the build a little bit now. Everything is going to be completely painted (chassis and body) to give it a nice clean look. I think most of the floor is going to be cut out to allow for the t-case to be clocked up a little more. Should be completely done in about 2-3 weeks now.
 
#92 ·
Took a little break to catch up on customer work but finally getting back into the swing of things...

Start of the fuel cell mount. Didn't want to do anything really nice because this is just a temp setup with the cell left over from the Jeep. It will switch over to different cell approved for racing and WErock later on.


Random paint pictures:






Had to rework the trans mount to clear the t-case output and DS


Braced the axle halo on the diff cover
 
#99 · (Edited)
Moore, I sent you a PM.

And I don't really have any good pictures of the 8, just a few of the cage I built for it. I should have it back in the shop for some more working in a couple weeks so I can take some more if you need any thing.

Here is a few of my 8 I had about 2 years ago. Just a street queen, but fun to drive:



(that's the same TJ I cut in half for this)
 
#104 ·
Got it back on the lift to get the buggy finished up

Just so random pictures of how it sits right now.


Engine cage/coilover supports. Also got the steering plumbed.



Bump stops:


Full droop:

 
#105 ·
Shocks are fill, I think the rear may go an inch higher:


Rear suck down winch mount is done:


Harness bar and cage gussets on:


Attempted to cycle the suspension:



Brakes are getting plumbed today. Steering will be finished up. Going to also attempt some driveshafts and then she should be good to roll. Then make a basic switch panel for now to get her started. Still need the skid plate done and a few other odds and ends.
 
#106 ·
Anyone happen to know what needs power in order to run a 98 4.0L?
I've pulled what looks to be the Hot, Run, and Starter wires from the old ign switch plug. I have the follow:
Red= Hot
Run= Pink/Black
Starter= Yellow

The problem right now is the Hot (red) is not hot.
If I run my own hot, it does not trigger the fuel pump which would normally be triggered on the run position. Also if the ign switch is pressed (so it now becomes hot) there is still no power into the relay.

I do know I have a good battery and it is capable of cranking the engine as I could manually add a hot to the start soleniod and have it turn the engine over (but no spark).
 
#107 · (Edited)
Are you still using the factory key/ ignition? I had some trouble getting mine to run due to some wiring issues this weekend, what I did was wired up my fuel pump on a two pole switch so that I manually turn it on and off, and i used the other pole to provide juice to the button for my starter solenoid so it will only start if the fuel pump is on.

While troubleshooting I'd also also just hook a wire up to the starter solenoid that you can touch to the batter so you can turn the engine over. Turn your ignition to the on position and pull a plug to see if you have fire while cranking it. If you are getting fire then manually hooking up the other two things should make it run. If you don't have fire you'll have to figure out the wire for the ignition and hook that to a switch too.

Edit: Nevermind it looks like I misread your post, but I would still just hook up everything manually
 
#108 · (Edited)
The problem with manually hooking it all up is every fucking wire on this piece of shit is hooked into the ECU in some fashion (from ignition to radio) :mad3:

Right now the setup is a on-off switch that controls the ingition (which through the ECU turns on fuel pump and all). and a momentary for the starter (only hot when ign is on).


thinking out loud some more. It was brought to my attention about the auto shut off relay.

Seems like there is a wire rd/lg into the ECU that is hot in the run and start position. That would send signal to open the auto shut off relay to keep power to everything while running and then once the key is off shut everything down. Going to bring a wire from my ign on-off switch into that rd/lg that will send power while ign is on (start switch only works with it on as well). That wire is also my only ECU input from the ign switch.

[crosses fingers]So hopefully that should fix it [/crosses fingers]


Only took 4 hours and this many beers
 
#110 ·
she runs and stops in the front! Front brakes are plumbed and finally fully bleed.

The list is getting smaller!
Rear brake lines with line lock
Mount calipers in the rear
Put axles back in the 14b
Wire guages
Make rear driveshaft
make skid
exhaust
mount winch up front
mount winch in rear
aux fan wiring
lock tight and check all suspension bolts
fill tcases, axles, trans
 
#111 ·
Rear axles and brakes are assembled. Just need to finish plumbing them. Winch came in for the front and along with the last 1310-1350 conversion joint for the rear shaft. Should be the last of the parts I need to get it moving for the weekend (minus u-bolts for the 1350 yoke)

Also hooked up the cable shifters on the D300. Think I am going to just run the 231 crawl box locked in low for the weekend and worry about a shifter cable mount later.

Goal for tonight, get all brake shit finished. Fill fluids, drive it in fwd to see how she rides, and atleast start on the skid plate tongiht.

There is the temp dash until I get the interior worked out


Rear brakes
 
#112 ·
She runs and drives great. Managed to snap a cable for the cable shifters, need to do something about that right now. Just got back from a buddys shop to bend out a exhaust pipe. Only thing left in the skid plate which I am going to do right now.
 
#115 ·
Just something different...


Just got back from RCrocs out at Rausch Creek. Needless to say it was very eventful...
Friday I finished laying the last bead on the buggy about 6am. Packed and left. Got up about 3pm, my spotter and I wanted to try and run some various lines to test buggy. It was a damn good thing too. Started with something inside of the crawl box popped and lost low range in it. Also started to leak fluid from it. Got her in high and went on with the testing. Second course we ran, the driver rear air shock siezed. Went back to the trailer, took of the shock and ripped it open. Shards of metal were inside and the shaft, seal, and body were all scored up. It was about 6pm and no shock oil on the truck, and no stores open to get it. Decided to run some ATF inside since it is thicker, maybe it would not leaked out. Filled it some, added nitrogen and it worked.
Ran a few more lines and called it quits for the day.
Tech'd in morning, refilled nitrogen in the shock since it leaked out over night and then she was ready to roll.
First course, we fucked up. Being the first comp both my spotter and I have ran we didn't take time and did not communicate enough. Took 2 cones, then tapped a 3rd. On the drop, used too much throttle and hit the finish gate cone and we pointed out.
Second course, we high centered on the first gate. Got it down then tried to throttle over again. Land hard enough to cut power on the buggy. While we worked to get it back started, the broken crawl box decided to leak fluid. Got the buggy down to stop the leak, tried again then lost the fuel pump. 40'd out and ended our day. Pump was shorting out and was unable to find the problem.


Going to tear it down and fix everything this week. Next weekend we are heading back out for some trail riding and more test and tuning.


Here a just a few pictures I got Friday:



 
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