HELP!!! Currie vs Dynatrac vs Spiderax. Also Coilovers????

[LVE2CUT]

Im new to this forum,I want to improve my rig and want some input.
MY CURRENT RIG: 2006 LJ Rubicon ;Dana 44 front and rear with chromoly axles;5:13 gearing ;Goodyear MT/R Kevlar 37; 6" Full Traction Long Arm Lift Kit;Currie Heavy Duty Stearing;RockLock Front SwayBar;Chromoly Full Traction Rear SwayBar;AEM Brute Force Intake. My friends and I have been wheeling and we go pretty hard went to Sledge Hammer and broke my front axle and steering stabilizer.
GOAL:
#1) Upgrade axles to Dana 60, BUT I am not good enough to do my own fab work so I need built axles. question:is Currie Rock Jock 60 or Dynatrac Pro Rock 60 or Spydertrax High 9 Also I wanted to get Kingpins on them if possible #2) I also want better articulation and was wondering about the possibility of Coilovers...since I already have a long arm kit does that make a difference if I want coilovers...I mean does that mean I have to trash the Full Traction lift kit or can I just simply add the coilovers to my current lift kit?
Also, any and all specific recomendations as well as brand preference for both axles and coilovers would be greatly appreciated

[LucasFury]

Originally Posted by LVE2CUT

Im new to this forum,I want to improve my rig and want some input.
MY CURRENT RIG: 2006 LJ Rubicon ;Dana 44 front and rear with chromoly axles;5:13 gearing ;Goodyear MT/R Kevlar 37; 6" Full Traction Long Arm Lift Kit;Currie Heavy Duty Stearing;RockLock Front SwayBar;Chromoly Full Traction Rear SwayBar;AEM Brute Force Intake. My friends and I have been wheeling and we go pretty hard went to Sledge Hammer and broke my front axle and steering stabilizer.
GOAL:
#1) Upgrade axles to Dana 60, BUT I am not good enough to do my own fab work so I need built axles. question:is Currie Rock Jock 60 or Dynatrac Pro Rock 60 or Spydertrax High 9 Also I wanted to get Kingpins on them if possible #2) I also want better articulation and was wondering about the possibility of Coilovers...since I already have a long arm kit does that make a difference if I want coilovers...I mean does that mean I have to trash the Full Traction lift kit or can I just simply add the coilovers to my current lift kit?
Also, any and all specific recomendations as well as brand preference for both axles and coilovers would be greatly appreciated

This means this post should be in newbie Jeep.

EDIT: Actually, since it's already there too, delete this and read all the stickies at the top of the forum.

[LVE2CUT]

OK Thanks

[fratis]

think youre gonna find that there are people quite satisfied with all of your choices. they are all top quality. i use a 9" front and rear. currie components in the rear and junkyard housing/solid axle/dynatrac/ true hi9/dutchman/bobby long components in the front. rear will get a revisit via a prebuilt spydertrax housing.

i asked for help from polyperformance on choosing coilovers and their take was, "pick a color." sounds understandably simplistic but the reason was all the top brands are excellent and tunable. king, sway-away, fox, etc. called ballistic first but they were surprisingly unhelpful so they didnt get my coilover money even though i use their joints. finally went with fox.

[Dirt-Fab]

Probably want to do some searching around here, as you are trying to cover a bunch of topics- many of which have already been discussed pretty hard.

I will touch on a few things....You can keep your FT kit, but will obviously replace the FT coil springs with coilovers. You will need brackets/mounts for upper and lower shock mounting locations. These will require fabrication/welding, so you will probably need a shop to do it for you based on what you said in your post. I like & sell the Polyperformance brackets. They make a couple different front upper mounts- depending on your budget.

As for coilovers- I like Fox or SAW, but but there are lots of good brands out there.

As for axles, do you like 9" or HP60 stuff? I like 9" 3rd members and the True Hi9 if you need HP for driveshaft issues. (May not be a problem with an LJ.) Currie makes good stuff, but their HP 9" third is not designed for 37" tall tires. If you don't need it, I would go with a standard heavy duty LP 9" 3rd member as it will be stronger than any HP ring and pinion currently on the market.

Probably should figure out what axle you want 1st, then focus on a manufacture or vendor.

Figure out if you want to switch to coilovers. If you do and can afford it, install the coilovers and axles at the same time. You will save money in the long run on fab work and axle bracketry.

Scott

[the1208]

Anything but Currie

[hurleygo3]

Originally Posted by the1208

Anything but Currie

How about a reason why.

[derekm1626]

spidertracs was very helpful in all the stuff I have done and would agree wit the upper post to stay aaway from balistic coil overs due to the lack of help on tuning and ajustments.

[LVE2CUT]

Originally Posted by the1208

Anything but Currie

I'm curious as to why not Currie. They have a pretty good track record. Anyone like the Solid axles?

[Dirt-Fab]

I don't know of any bad HP60 3rd members currently being pushed in the market. Solid seems to make good stuff. I think your best bet is to focus on a supplier/manufacture that can put together what you want with all the correct bracketry- etc.

Currie makes good stuff, just match your purchase with what you intend to do. In other words, don't buy a stock narrowed 9" housing and then go desert race with it and get pissed off when it fails. My only issue with Currie is that they butt weld the inner C's on the tube. I'm not sure if you can special order them to press and weld on. I just don't like to do it this way and have seen axles done this way fail.

[Beat95YJ]

FWIW I have had good luck with Currie and Dynatrac diff's and RE and Poly Performance brackets.

[scottiebobbie]

i own dynatrac pro rock 60's and if i ever build a axle again i will buy rock jock centers from currie and use solid knuckles and c's

[Impaired]

run Tera 60 crds in my jeep and a buddy's. great product, great smooth ground clearance, stupid good customer support, and I never hear "Driver Error" if something fails and i have to call them I call them.

[the1208]

Had it all listed last night why I said not to run Currie and some how could not get it to post hit the wrong button and erased it so hear is the short version.

As a noob you don't know enough to order from Currie after you have researched and seen what works and don't and do not have to rely on them for any input then go for it. To many other excellent sources to take a chance.

My vote Dynatrac

[LVE2CUT]

Originally Posted by the1208

Had it all listed last night why I said not to run Currie and some how could not get it to post hit the wrong button and erased it so hear is the short version.

As a noob you don't know enough to order from Currie after you have researched and seen what works and don't and do not have to rely on them for any input then go for it. To many other excellent sources to take a chance.

My vote Dynatrac

So you don't like currie?
Dynatrac is your choice....I am interested as to what makes one like Dynatrac over Currie??? Why is one better than the other????
Does the Currie have more ground clearance???

[mrblaine]

Originally Posted by LVE2CUT

So you don't like currie?
Dynatrac is your choice....I am interested as to what makes one like Dynatrac over Currie??? Why is one better than the other????
Does the Currie have more ground clearance???

Here's something that may help with your decision. Currie builds parts they use to build rigs that wheel often and hard based on them building a lot of rigs.

You can just about take a blank check in there and buy all the parts you need to build an awesome rig aside from a cage.

Dynatrac builds axles.

[matt linderkamp]

I'm getting a third member from currie on monday to complete my rear end swap from a dana 35. All currie components, hope i'll be happy.

[hurleygo3]

Currie has been building axles for over 50yrs. They must be doing something right.

But either way I would be happy with any 3 of those axles under my turd.

[tjkj2002]

My Iron RockJock60 has been awesome so far,very well built axle and has the same clearance that the old 8.25 I removed had(and lighter then the 8.25).Now the Wilwood brakes are a different story,the brakes themselfs are very good but the wrong type of retainer plate sucks since now I have to have the bearings pressed off and back on with the correct retaining plate(Currie gave me for free,well out of any warranty also) just because Wilwood still states that set 20 bearings never came stock on a 9".

[crawllr]

I have bought 3 ford 9 inch axles from currie 2 rears 1 front,and beat the crap out of them on the ruicon and have never broke a thing.my 1963 cj5 has a 289 v8 and i drive it like i stole it they are a lot of $ but dont break. I use detroit lockers in all 3

[flattietj]

i think when comparing all three you are comparing alot of different applications......curries axles are built as stout stock replacements where as dynatrac is building comp ready units and so is spider trax......all of them cost alot.....for a long time i was stuck on getting currie axles under my rig but when i realized that wrenches,welders, and sweat could build the same thing for a fraction i was sold. I am certain that i could not replicate dynatrac, spidertrax, or solid axle....their stuff is all custom and high quality...not that curries stuf is not high quality it just isnt(other than the rock jock) the same as the rest

[Tech Tim]

All 3 of the companies have a good name and good reputations in most circles.

BUT there is a big difference in 9" and Dana 60 type axles.

The 9"ers are more expensive to build; figure, on average, an extra $2K over a comparable D60. The main reason is that there are so many manufacturers build Dana 60 variant axles that the prices can be quite competitive. The True Hi9 is the only Hi Pinion 9" third for the big tire crowd and that drives the price up over a High pin D60 variant.

Now for that extra expense you get a lighter and smaller axle. Strength can be argued back and forth, 9" or D60. In the end, the shafts are the same, the knuckles are the same for a front application, so it really comes down to the ring and pinion.

Over all the big difference comes down to weight and size. You cannot get the D60 to the same weight or size as a 9" and yes you can feel it.

[LVE2CUT]

Originally Posted by Tech Tim

All 3 of the companies have a good name and good reputations in most circles.

BUT there is a big difference in 9" and Dana 60 type axles.

The 9"ers are more expensive to build; figure, on average, an extra $2K over a comparable D60. The main reason is that there are so many manufacturers build Dana 60 variant axles that the prices can be quite competitive. The True Hi9 is the only Hi Pinion 9" third for the big tire crowd and that drives the price up over a High pin D60 variant.

Now for that extra expense you get a lighter and smaller axle. Strength can be argued back and forth, 9" or D60. In the end, the shafts are the same, the knuckles are the same for a front application, so it really comes down to the ring and pinion.

Over all the big difference comes down to weight and size. You cannot get the D60 to the same weight or size as a 9" and yes you can feel it.

I have been pricing out the Spidertrax, i know it does not include the brakes and the mounting brackets...but how much would a complete set up cost installed in my LJ??? Below is the total I got from Spidertrax. Do you think the ring and pinion strength matches up between the D60 and Hi9

Spidertrax Spider 9 Pro Series Front Roller Kit (3-1/2" x 1/4" w/ 8 Lug) $2,722.95

Spidertrax Ultimate 300M D60 LSK Stub Shaft Kit
$499.95

Spidertrax Ultimate 35 Spline 300M Inner Axle Shafts
$1,299.95

Total $4,522.85

[alstick]

I've run all - currently Dynatracs under my TJ. I actually spent two days at Dynatrac watching my axles being built - I have nothing to say but good things - amazing work, great staff who care, but that said same with Currie and I've been through their shop too, and are more of a full line Jeep supplier.

I also custom built my own RockCrushers 60s (now Solid axle and the second owner - you make that call) and if you go to big tires (I had 46's on my RockCrushers) you will want King pin ends not ball joints as I replaced ball joints yearly. Next set under my big rig will be Rock Jock centers and my own built king pin outers - I like the stability of a company like Dynatrac or Currie for my parts cause one day you are going to need replacement parts.

Al V
www.can4x4.com

My TJ on Dynatracs:

[Tech Tim]

Originally Posted by LVE2CUT

I have been pricing out the Spidertrax, i know it does not include the brakes and the mounting brackets...but how much would a complete set up cost installed in my LJ??? Below is the total I got from Spidertrax. Do you think the ring and pinion strength matches up between the D60 and Hi9

Yes, I think the True Hi 9 matches up strength-wise to the Hi pinion D60s available.

For the brakes, we use a couple different OE applications, so they are a more streetable, easy to find replacement parts, set-up.

Here is a pic of our FF Caddie El Dorado rear disc set-up using F350 rotors on Spidertrax FF ends.