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Old 07-16-2010, 11:22 AM   #101 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Grendel View Post
Sorry I missed your call. My phone's off as I am on PTO (last day today).
Hey buddy, been thinking alot about your call the other day... give me a ring.
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Old 07-23-2010, 06:55 AM   #102 (permalink)
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alright.... spent the whole week in North Dakota... so back to work tonight when I get home. My Diff cover arrived so I'll get some pics when I get home and get it unwrapped.
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Old 08-01-2010, 09:57 AM   #103 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by NEastUnlmtd View Post
I hope this project hasn't hit a brick wall?
Not at all actually it should be done today sans the driveshaft to be picked up Tuesday. I have just been traveling M-F and haven't had any time to load stuff up. I have quite a few picks of the work that I've been doing on the weekend and I'll have that posted up in the next couple of days. Stay tuned...
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Old 08-02-2010, 06:03 PM   #104 (permalink)
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Aight.... Dave told me today that it actually is going to be Wed. before my driveshaft is done but I guess it's been 4 weeks... what's another 3 days going to hurt? So.. I thought I'd go ahead and post a couple pic of it sitting in the garage, mostly put back together.

Here is the tank... not exactly a technical mod... in fact a pretty easy one albeit my OCD "get it perfectly straight" personality combined with the fact that I did it by myself and I'm too cheap to waste 1/2 a tank of premium made it take alot longer than it probably should have. In November when I get my Q3 bonus Gen right is going to get a big check for an aluminum tank but for now still the stocker.


New bling stainless braided brake lines.


The future foot rest mount for the rear seats/ current upper mount for the shocks (it's awful I know but it's going to have to do for a short while)


The pinion brake full installed. I am thinking the cables are going to stretch a little bit so for now it's this set of cable ties but once I'm confident the distance is set I'm going to go to a slightly more cosmetic setup...


thats all for now. Flame away.
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:13 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Looks good,,,, I hate sitting around waiting for parts.
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Old 08-03-2010, 09:12 AM   #106 (permalink)
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Looks good,,,, I hate sitting around waiting for parts.
Thanks man. Yea... it's frustrating. But I try and remember that quality takes time right?
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:34 AM   #107 (permalink)
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Oh man... it never freaking ends. Several of you that know me know the deal that has been going down with Ballistic Fab. Long story short:
  • I ordered a D60 cover with Truss link from them as I was told it would work with my D70 rear
  • I got it, and it didn't fit... ring gear stuck out too far
  • I sent them my stock D70 cover and they made me a custom cover based off it (Dr.Vic sent me a PM)
  • It took a few weeks but I got it back and it fit (hooray). However, they forgot to put the truss tie-in plate on there as on the 60 cover I originally ordered (they also forgot to weld on the skull... in hindsight this should have been a warning)
  • I'm in Boston for a trade show this week and my mom (who gets my mail for me when I'm out of town) calls me today and says there is a huge puddle of red fluid in my garage

So... yeah. They forgot to weld in the fill plug... it came out and is now laying nicely in about $70 in fluids on my garage floor. I don't know how I didn't notice that it wasn't welded in, I guess it was so snuggly hammered in that I just didn't notice it being loose. Somehow it held fluid when I filled her up on Monday evening but... now I'm out a couple gallons of redline syn. fluid, I can only imagine what a mess I have to clean up when I land on Friday, and I am so thoroughly discouraged with Ballistic... who I really WANT to like.... but I'm running out of reasons.... anyhow... Just a vent.

Attached is the description off their site of the covers... plainly says fill welded in place.

"Dana 60 High Capacity Differential Cover made from 3/8" steel. Features high face clearance for tight steering applications. CNC Laser cut and CNC Press formed 16 times from one piece. The ultra thick 3/8" flange resists pulling off of the sealing surface while dragging the differential. Threaded fill plug already welded in place. Includes weld on skull logo and Grade 8 hardware. Differential ring and seams come welded and machined flat for a great fit."

I think my bottom line message is this:

These are really nice guys. Jeff, Dave, Allen, Will, and the like. Additionally, the design of their stuff I think is SUPER top notch. I also think they really care about their customers despite what the flamings on the bulletin board indicate... because they seem to "jump to" every time I point something out. They are mad scientists with a press brake... some of the best bends I've ever seen and I've been in machinery most of my life (www.vecoplan.com). But if you buy from these guys... the cost you have to pay is to thoroughly inspect everything before you use it... because I think that perhaps their attention to detail in the finishing stages is a bit lacking. I am honestly a little disappointed in this aspect of their business. Now maybe this is justified further by their "budget friendly" prices. But I somehow doubt they are intentionally cutting corners to try and save on labor so as to be able to offer lower prices. I just don't think they have the finishing end of their operation nailed down yet. Hopefully, they will. Hopefully people giving them feedback without being unfair and ridiculous (notice they did do alot of things right and only a few wrong) will spurn them to this goal. However, for the time being... I'm a little disappointed.
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Old 08-14-2010, 05:15 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Alright... so we're ironing out the final wrinkles to hopefully get the old girl driving. Here are the two thorns I'm trying to deal with right now:

1.) Got the driveshaft hooked up to the t-case side but it turns out that despite my measurements.. my 70 actually had a 1330 yoke not a 1350, so thats no good.

First problem with this is that the pinion nut (which appears to be a 1 5/16 btw... if anyone can verify this) has so little clearance to the inside of the yoke that I can't get a socket on it. I have a 1 1/4" 1/2" drive hand tool socket but my hand tool sockets don't go up quite high enough. I have a 1 5/16 impact for a 1/2" drive but the walls are too thick and it won't fit down in the hole, neither will my 3/4" drive hand tools. Anybody have and ideas here? Napa, Craftsman (via local Sears and Ace), Northern Tool, and Kobalt don't seem to be in stock in the 1 5/16" size in either a thin wall impact or a 1/2" hand tool size. The local Matco guy I always got stuff from in the past just retired and I've left 3 messages on the cell phone of the local Cornwell guy without geting a call back. If you live local to 27262 and have a socket that will work for me... it's worth a couple beers if you can let me borrow it for about 30 minutes.

Second problem I have is the spline count of the correct 1350 yoke end that I want to swap in, assuming I ever get the darn nut off. Since I'm burning time here trying to get this done I'd like to make sure I have the right part when I need it. Can anyone confirm this part? I believe it is a 32 spline yoke going on the pinion, and I picked one up accordingly, but again... I want to make sure.

2.) I upgraded the master cylinder to the 2500 unit. I bled the brakes out to the point I could pressure wash the underneath of my car with the flow rate of what I was getting with each bleed on all four corners bleeding the way I've always done- starting at the passenger rear, the driver rear, the pass front, the driver front. But the pedal still goes all the way to the floor. There is resistance mind you, but it definitely goes all the way down. Any thoughts here?

Thanks!
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Old 08-14-2010, 05:37 PM   #109 (permalink)
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2.) I upgraded the master cylinder to the 2500 unit. I bled the brakes out to the point I could pressure wash the underneat
h of my car with the flow rate of what I was getting with each bleed on all four corners bleeding the way I've always done- starting at the passenger rear, the driver rear, the pass front, the driver front. But the pedal still goes all the way to the floor. There is resistance mind you, but it definitely goes all the way down. Any thoughts here?

Thanks!
Do you still have the proportional valve on there? Check out the brake section of the Ultimate wrangler thread.
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Old 08-14-2010, 07:02 PM   #110 (permalink)
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Do you still have the proportional valve on there? Check out the brake section of the Ultimate wrangler thread.
I think I got it figured out. I threaded out the bolt from the booster that goes into the 2500 master cylinder to account for the difference in the gap between the stock unit and the 2500. We'll see how it does on the road, but it seems to have good pedal feel now. Does that make sense to you? See any issues? I know in the "blue angel" thread you have in your famous little collage link there are about 30 "right ways" to do it talked about. I suppose I'm just playing around with what "works" vs. "the right way" Obviously the right way works... but I don't want to do one of the many other ways that will work... for a while at least... but aren't necessarily right.
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Old 08-14-2010, 08:27 PM   #111 (permalink)
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Getting a new bolt is a must, there isn't enough length on the stock pushrod.

You will also want to either replace the prop valve (I used a speedway motors valve) or gut the stock prop valve (I did this, it sucked).
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Old 08-14-2010, 09:06 PM   #112 (permalink)
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Getting a new bolt is a must, there isn't enough length on the stock pushrod.

You will also want to either replace the prop valve (I used a speedway motors valve) or gut the stock prop valve (I did this, it sucked).
Yeah, I hear you on the bolt. It definitely is long enough to adequately engage the master cylinder, but there are only about 1/2 the amount of threads that were engaged into the pushrod in the factory setup. I'm a worry-wart about stuff like that (i'm the guy that checks his tire pressure every time he re-fuels) and the idea of the bolt coming loose of the pushrod while I'm breaking at 55MPH is not the most pleasant one

Can you email me a pic and a part number of the Speedway Prop valve you got? I see the valves they have (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...ves,23498.html) but I'm just curious if you got the pink one

Seriously though. Did you do a write-up on the install of the prop valve?
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Old 08-14-2010, 10:02 PM   #113 (permalink)
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Yeah you want more threads and make sure it's a grade 8 bolt. If you look at my build thread for project rub it out I am pretty sure I took pics and explained what I did.

I used this valve:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...isplayId=23498
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Old 08-15-2010, 03:55 PM   #114 (permalink)
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I dont know that i agree that i need to "make sure" and get a grade 8 but i am going to anyhow... i pretty much always replace w/ either stainless or grade 8 when anything comes off.

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Old 08-15-2010, 04:37 PM   #115 (permalink)
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Check out those links, they explain why it needs to be grade 8 hardware...and it's like a $1 anyway!
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Old 08-15-2010, 05:02 PM   #116 (permalink)
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Check out those links, they explain why it needs to be grade 8 hardware...and it's like a $1 anyway!
I did a quick search on projects with that name and nothing came up (I found the build... I just didn't find anything about why this bolt needs to be a grade 8. Maybe it's in a different thread of yours? If so can you shoot me the link? I'm under something right now :-)

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Old 08-15-2010, 10:36 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Read here:

/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/373571-tj-master-cylinder-upgrade.html
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Old 08-16-2010, 07:29 AM   #118 (permalink)
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POSTED FROM THE ABOVE LINKED THREAD SO THAT ANYONE WHO SEES THIS CAN HELP ME OUT ASAP.

Quote:
Originally Posted by geberhard View Post
pgrade with pics, etc here:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=334736&page=9

Basically was mixing and matching some parts, TJ and YJ. Will copy the post here:

Got the Ram 2500 MC, about $70 at my door in one day, not bad at all

After doing the 14 bolt disc brake conversion, my stock MC did not have enough juice for the front dual piston calipers, and the rear calipers. I could lock the 40s with a couple pumps or standing on the brake pedal, so not ideal. I looked at a few options for the upgrade, either a E350 MC or a Dodge Ram 2500.

The E350 needs minor modifications to work on the rig, but will also require reflaring a few lines, or adaptors. The Dodge Ram 2500 is a straight forward almost bolt on for a TJ, but it will not directly fit on a YJ booster flange. PIcs of the Ram 2500 and TJ booster below:

Picture of the Dodge Ram 2500 MC compared to a TJ stock MC.



The next change will be extending the booster push rod. Here is a pic of the stock push rod screw. It has enough length that it could just be pushed all the way out. I gota bigger grade 8 bolt at the hardware store I will modify (cut head and grid to fit MC).



Mocking up the setup:




I was planning to use a TJ booster, however the booster is longer than the YJ, so once the MC is mounted, it would not clear the hood. One option is to fabricate the booster mount bringing it closer to the firewall, and relocate the clutch slave reservoir which would interfere.

I went with another option, modifying the MC to fit the YJ booster. It required minor grinding of the RAM MC flange until it fit the YJ booster. If doing this approach, grind carefully the excess material until it fits.



I need to make some lines with new fittings as the YJs are slightly different. To clarify, teh TJ lines will bolt on. I am contemplating using the stock TJ lines from the stcok TJ MC to the stock TJ proportioning valve, rather than having to deal with a lot of bending and reflarring of lines.

Quick question, on teh YJ, the proprotioning valve floats (it is not mounted to any place), so it uses brake lines coiled up. On teh TJ, the lines are not spiralled, since the TJ prop valve mounts to the booster for support. So can I use this approachg and just skip doing spiralled\coiled lines?
Gui... I lost the damn bolt that fits in the booster push rod on the way to Automotive Fasteners. I know it's an M6 (or at least I think it is) and I believe it was a 40mm length but the thread pitch was higher than 1.0. Can you help me out with this info ASAP? Now that I got my U-joint issue solved this bolt is all I need to drive!!!!!
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Old 08-17-2010, 07:26 AM   #119 (permalink)
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it was a 1/4" 28 bolt. Thanks for the help guys. I swear, you have to go through a 15mm, 2 13mm and 2 14mm bolts to get to the bolt, the hex pattern on the bolt is 7mm, but the thread pitch is SAE..... wtf?
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Old 08-17-2010, 07:26 PM   #120 (permalink)
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So the driveshaft is finally in, and the brakes have the new prop valve installed. They had the Wilwood one in stock for like $40 out the door at CV products in Thomasville so I just went that route instead of waiting for Speedway/Summit and paying shipping to boot. Theoretically then, stage 1 is done.

And then...

Good news bad new scenario... Good news is it drives. Bad news is it drives like crapp.... not that this isn't to be expected considering it just got back rolling tonight but still- the frustration continues.

Here are my thoughts:

1.) I didn't have the heart to pull it out and look but the speedo didn't register when I drove it to the end of the driveway and back. I changed the Speedo gear to the new tire size when I was rebuilding the t-case so I am thinking I didn't get it engaged properly when I popped it back in. My concern is that bad boy is a $100 piece of plastic so i'm hoping that i didn't shear the teeth off on my little 50 yd adventure but given how things have gone thus far- that kind of luck seems optimistic at best. We'll find out.

2.) She won't go into 2,4 ( i didn't try 6th in my driveway but I think it's a safe bet the bottom gears arent engaging as a whole. I'm thinking the culprit is interference with the tub from the t-case lower kit and since my driveline angle is WAY better than I thought it would be I believe I am just going to tear that bad boy off and raise the drivetrain back up and see if that helps... I'm betting it will. It's hideous anyhow so I'm hoping this works.

3.) the rear end feels looser than Courtney Love's pharmacist... it actually feels like it's moving laterally... which I don't get considering I didn't really change much in the geometry back there but it certainly isn't dialed in yet. I'm not running a rear sway bar- but I wasn't before either and it drove perfectly.

I'm going to bed... I'm pretty defeated for the day- time to get some rest and get ready to try and start figuring things out tomorrow. I'll post pics then it is isn't pouring down rain still.
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Old 08-21-2010, 05:05 PM   #121 (permalink)
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So the driveshaft is finally in, and the brakes have the new prop valve installed. They had the Wilwood one in stock for like $40 out the door at CV products in Thomasville so I just went that route instead of waiting for Speedway/Summit and paying shipping to boot. Theoretically then, stage 1 is done.

And then...

Good news bad new scenario... Good news is it drives. Bad news is it drives like crapp.... not that this isn't to be expected considering it just got back rolling tonight but still- the frustration continues.

Here are my thoughts:

1.) I didn't have the heart to pull it out and look but the speedo didn't register when I drove it to the end of the driveway and back. I changed the Speedo gear to the new tire size when I was rebuilding the t-case so I am thinking I didn't get it engaged properly when I popped it back in. My concern is that bad boy is a $100 piece of plastic so i'm hoping that i didn't shear the teeth off on my little 50 yd adventure but given how things have gone thus far- that kind of luck seems optimistic at best. We'll find out.

2.) She won't go into 2,4 ( i didn't try 6th in my driveway but I think it's a safe bet the bottom gears arent engaging as a whole. I'm thinking the culprit is interference with the tub from the t-case lower kit and since my driveline angle is WAY better than I thought it would be I believe I am just going to tear that bad boy off and raise the drivetrain back up and see if that helps... I'm betting it will. It's hideous anyhow so I'm hoping this works.

3.) the rear end feels looser than Courtney Love's pharmacist... it actually feels like it's moving laterally... which I don't get considering I didn't really change much in the geometry back there but it certainly isn't dialed in yet. I'm not running a rear sway bar- but I wasn't before either and it drove perfectly.

I'm going to bed... I'm pretty defeated for the day- time to get some rest and get ready to try and start figuring things out tomorrow. I'll post pics then it is isn't pouring down rain still.
So the speedo gear was fine. It took some wigglin and wogglin to actually get it to engage but it's in and working. It's wierd to have a Speedo that works properly- I've been 5-10 mph off for years now.

Just as I thought the issue with the transmission not engaging was the T-case drop. That's gone now (hooray- cause it was UGLY) and the transmission hits all 7 gears just fine.

Drove it up to Thomasville and back and it's ok, the biggest thing is that the rear tires aren't balanced yet and the combination of an unbalanced 40" tire bouncing around and no rear shocks is a no-no. Still, (just because I'm not too totally confident in my abilities at this point, I literally have not had a hand of help in the garage, and i don't want to destroy a 3k rear end because of a stupid "whoops") I am going to take it up to my friend Dave's shop and leave it this week for him to burn on a couple shock tabs for me (the 110 fluxcore welder just wasn't hanging with the 3/8" plate tabs and those axles) and sort of check through everything... just to kind of have a second set of eyes on it. I think we're nearing the finish line for stage 1!
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Old 08-22-2010, 01:09 AM   #122 (permalink)
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Good job man. ..glad to see it didn't take too long to work out those last few bugs.
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Old 08-28-2010, 05:35 AM   #123 (permalink)
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So I don't think that two of the 9.00R 20s are going to work out. Two were new, and two were re-treads; neither of the re-treads will balance. SO.... I think I am going to order 2 Xterrian procomp 40" tires for a 20" rim and put them on. I think I actually can clear them on the front with these spacers, and later with the 60 up front, when it's finished. So... wasted a little money there I suppose :-(

The big box boys over at 4WD have them for $389 a tire and since they own Procomp that may be the best I can find, but does anyone know of anything better out there? OR I'm not neccesarily married to that tire, just keep in mind my goal here is to run a radial road set and a nasty Bias set on beads for off road use once I have 4wd again so don't go recommending IROKS or Rockers... I know they're sweet and I likely will be running a 42" set of one of the two when the time comes but hooking the front axle into the T-case really needs to come first.
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Old 09-07-2010, 03:25 PM   #124 (permalink)
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Ordered 2 ea. 40" procomps today... $861 out the door, alot of $ but alot of tire too
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Old 09-24-2010, 05:59 AM   #125 (permalink)
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Nothing groundbreaking but we pulled the axles, sand blasted them, and are painting them this week. While we had everything off I went ahead and rebuild the Johnny joints, installed new Zerks and painted the control arms as well. A few Utah winters had some rather obvious effects on all this stuff and it was a good time to get it restored.
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Last edited by Vecoplan; 07-17-2011 at 08:22 AM.
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