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Old 06-18-2010, 01:28 AM   #1 (permalink)
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93 YJ 1 Ton Build Feedback allways welcome

I am home burning up my leave and finally decided to get my YJ off of blocks. I tore it all apart 3 years ago to do everything all at once. Boy was that a mistake. I got extremely overwhelmed on my first build, and soon ran out of time. I went into almost 2 straight years of Army training and then a year long tour to Iraq. I have been working on my Jeep for a solid month now, and finally felt comfortable enough to post up a little of my work to solicit for advice and feedback on what all I have done and plan. Here is where I left off today;

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...r/P1010107.jpg

I know it is extremely tall. I am just getting a little tired of messing with it. I will be moving to Georgia in about a month and figured the extra height would not hurt on the flatter terrain around Fort Benning.
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Old 06-18-2010, 01:39 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Here is my 231/300 Doubler



I would like to restate that this is my first build and I have very little time actrually doing much hard core off roading, so input and criticism is invited and welcome.

I bought the DD Machine Box For rocks from Duffy. I will be pulling it back out in a couple days when my 32 Spline front output gets here. I will be putting the 32 Spline form Advance Adapters in the rear of my Dana 300 and the JB conversions 32 Spline front output in. I have 1350 flanges coming in for both. I bought two front Drivelines out of a 99 or newer Ford Super Duty from the wrecking yard for $75 each. They have the 1350 flange and Double Cardan, (CV) joint. I have measured my drivelines and they dont move more than an inch at full droop and compression, so the stock slip joint on those drive shafts should be more than enough.

Does anyone know if I can drill and tap the stock cardan joint to put a grease zirk in it?

I moved my rear axle back quite a bit and used my stock leaf springs off of my 99 Super Duty. They were 56 inches long and had an offset centering pin. I used Wagonneer springs for the front. I cannot remember the length right now, but they were also offset. I added about 5 inched to the front of my frame. I had my buddy weld that on since he is a union welder. It is worth noting I took the overload and one leaf out of the middle of the Super Duty springs. I took about 5 leafs out of the Wagoneer springs. I ended up with a wheel base of 106 inches.
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Old 06-18-2010, 01:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Here is a picture of my sticks and floor pan



I plan on fabbing up a large box across my jeep with lockable storage under the seats and down beside the frame. I plan on basically ending up with a box under each seat and a large center console to mount my B&M shifter up by the steering wheel so I can hit Neutral and Reverse fairly easily on the trail.
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Old 06-18-2010, 01:46 AM   #4 (permalink)
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My diff cover built from scratch


This was much more work than I thought it would be. I spent about 3 whole days working on this. In retrospect I would just buy one and cut the bottom off to match up to the 14 bolt I cut up.

I included recessed bolt hole on the bottom of my diff cover but am very leery that it will ever seal up properly and have decided to just weld the bottom up.
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Old 06-18-2010, 01:47 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Spider gears

Also worth noting I welded up the spider gears. Here is a picture of that;

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Old 06-18-2010, 01:49 AM   #6 (permalink)
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This won't be a daily driver, but I plan on driving it to work a couple times a week. I am not certain how the welded rear will do but I guess I will find out.

I also have a spool for my 79 Ford Dana 60 front and am debating whether I should put it in or not. Obviously I would eventually like to go to a selectable locker later. I am way over budget right now and am trying to do things cheaply without doubling work for myself later.
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Old 06-18-2010, 01:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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91 AW4 tranny into 93 YJ



This is the wiring harness to put the 91 AW4 tranny into my 93 YJ. I built this entirely from scratch thanks to the folks on Stu Olson’s' website.

I just piled it up to make it look more complicated for dramatic effect.

I will let you know if I got it wired up correctly in about a week when I get my Jeep on the road.

Keen observer might notice the AW4 shifter in the bottom of the pile. It is not wired in at all. I am going to wait to make sure I got the tranny wired in correctly before I try to figure out Brett’s controller. If anyone has info and/or instruction on how to wire this controller, I am all ears. I bought the controller three years ago and Brett has since stopped selling them.
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Old 06-18-2010, 01:56 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Bottom of my 14 bolt diff cut off



I cut this with a Quickie saw and a metal cutting blade. It took about 3 minutes.
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Old 06-18-2010, 01:57 AM   #9 (permalink)
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This is how much I cut off.



Tyler is having a hard time holding it for me and staying out of the picture.
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Old 06-18-2010, 01:58 AM   #10 (permalink)
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14 bolt finally assembled after three years

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Old 06-18-2010, 02:01 AM   #11 (permalink)
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All wrapped up warm and cozy



I am kind of jumping around on you guys. Sorry about that. Maybe I need to go to bed.

This is my diff after I welded it. I preheated it with a torch until it burnt my gloves when I touched it. It never did get cherry red like another write-up I saw on PBB, but my buddy, (the union welder) said cast only needs to be preheated to 250 degrees, so I figured I was good. After I welded the plate inside and outside, I wrapped it in a welding blanket and then a bunch of old shirts so it would cool slowly.
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Old 06-18-2010, 02:05 AM   #12 (permalink)
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More doubler info







To cut the doubler, I used a hacksaw. The aluminum is quite soft and it only takes about a solid 5 minutes of cutting. Once you put the doubler plate on, it becomes quite obvious where to cut at. It is not an exact science, just get it close. It does not have to look pretty; it is just going under your junk anyways. After I cut it, I had a local welder TIG the aluminum plate on the end for $30.
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Old 06-18-2010, 02:15 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Things to do still

Put 32 spline outputs on dana 300 with flanges
Order driveshafts once I am certain of the lengths
Put Master cylinder out of 78 Mercury Grand Marquis in
Put all rear brake lines in
install adjustable proportioning valve
Make steering linkage with 7/8 Moog tie rod ends
Move steering box forward because it hits the diff
Fab up seat mounts/storage boxes/center console
Do I need panhard bars?
Fab sway bar brakets-I was thinking of using the Wagoneer sway bar on the front, and the stock YJ front sway bar on my rear
Fab shock mounts
Fab up front bumper with mount for my 8274 and cut front tube out of frame

Things to do in near future;
Roll cage and rocksliders
Fab some kind of removable fenders
Wire in Bretts' AWshifting controller
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Old 06-18-2010, 01:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Instead of just posting links to your pics, actually post them and you will get more responses.

Thanks for your service.
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Old 06-18-2010, 02:01 PM   #15 (permalink)
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on phot bucket just copy and paste the [IMG] code for each picture you want to show.

Thank you for your service.
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Old 06-18-2010, 08:37 PM   #16 (permalink)
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IMG code

Test
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Old 06-18-2010, 08:38 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Your kidding me!

I can't believe it was this easy the whole time!
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Old 06-18-2010, 08:55 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I daily drive my yj with rear spool in a 60, not bad if you dont mind some firm steering and tire squealing, but my tires sure dont like it!
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Old 07-02-2010, 07:51 AM   #19 (permalink)
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x2 on the firm steering. havent got my assist hooked up yet so it definitey makes for a different feel. I usually just wait for traffic to clear and use both lanes to turn to save on my rubbers!
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Old 07-02-2010, 10:08 AM   #20 (permalink)
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looking good
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Old 07-02-2010, 07:49 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Looks good man, I like the idea of the superduty leafs... check out my build thread when you get a chance...
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