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Old 06-28-2010, 06:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Scooby

My name is Ben and my TJ is Scooby. Named that because my last TJ got drowned and still being a newb when I go this one in ’03 I put a snorkel on it and my wife said it looked like scuba gear. The snorkel has been gone for a long time now but the name stuck.
One time I laid it over and didn’t pull the plugs to get the oil out, so I ended up hydro locked from oil seeping past the rings and had to build another engine for it.
Bought it new and I wheeled the snot out of it stock on 31s, then through 3 sets of 33s, then a set of 37s and now I am moving up to 39.50s and some 404s.
No one has ever done anything to my Jeep but me and the stealership when it was under warranty.
I belong to the Lone Star Jeep Club and have put all my builds on there, but have gotten huge amounts of info from here so I thought it would be cool to share what I have been working on lately.
I will show some pictures of the biggest changes I have made, and since I am in the process now of upgrading the axles and suspension and some other stuff, I will show that too, and more as I get it done.
Don’t pay any attention to the dates on the pics. My camera was messed up and they are mostly wrong.
Feel free to comment or make suggestions, all are welcome.


5/16th angle rocker guards





High line hood/fenders and rad hoop. made out of 1.5" x .120 DOM, and 12 ga. flat plate.



had to kill Scooby












Last edited by BenE; 10-02-2010 at 01:10 PM.
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Old 06-28-2010, 06:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Switch panel.
i took the airbag out (trail rig, don’t need/want it)
i kept the airbag cover in case i want an inspection later on
behind the panel there are breakers for each circuit.





Cage















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Old 06-28-2010, 06:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I got the bottom most bars in. I put them as out of the way as much as I possibly could.











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Old 06-28-2010, 06:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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and i started on the rear vert. (not done)













thinking i can do everything myself, i tried to muscle it out, but when i relized i couldnt i had to figure another way..LOL







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Old 06-28-2010, 06:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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got the cage finish welded and painted

RED









mostly done on the cage, still going to add an aluminum top











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Old 06-28-2010, 06:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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working on finishing out the trunk



wired up the electrical, havent finished enclosing the bat comp or the strap comp yet







my new Corbeau belts



trick tabs for the belts



bottle opener... thanks Jim (mudman)



cb mount



fire extinguisher mount

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Old 06-28-2010, 06:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I got the aluminum top done on my cage.
It took taking it off and putting it on several times, but with the plasma and a angle grinder I just cut where it needed to be cut and I scored it where it needed to be bent, and rivited it in place









I built an OBA out of my OEM AC comp and a nice bottle that Mike Green gave me (thanks bro) and a bunch of other stuff .

Cool bottle that with sticker that matches my new cage


I sourced this from an air compressor I outgrew. it’s the pressure switch, a toggle switch, a pressure gauge, a blow off valve, and a quick chuck all in one.


I put a chuck in the back next to my 12V outlet too.


I put another one up next to my winch too.


I used the OEM lines. Figured the aluminum lines would handle any heat from the pump better than the flex line.


I used a small generic filter and some brass fittings to adapt it to an inline oilier and then I threaded the end of the aluminum line and just screwed it in.


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Old 06-28-2010, 06:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I painted the fenders, sliders, and rad hoop to match :biggrin:







And now I am in the process of adding Unimog 404 portals, 39.50 Iroks, double triangulated 4 link front and rear, Stazworks double bead locks, fuel cell in the rear, new skids, and some other stuff I’m sure I am forgetting.

I got (16) 1.25” Heim’s with the weld in bungs, lock nuts, and misalignment spacers.
And (8) 7/8” Heim’s for the links on each end of the steering ram. The reason I got 8 when I only needed 4 was I got a package deal and I have plans to turn the rear into a steering axle.



I also got an 8” DADE ram and an Eaton open center, non load reactive, non load sensing Charlyn steering unit with a manual steering check valve (so I can steer even without the engine running).



I also got some stuff to go with it.
I got a cooler, and a filter for the pump feed line, and I am going to make my own tank so I got some bungs and a screened filler with a one way valved, filtered cap, and a sight glass with a thermometer built in.



These axles have mechanical lockers so I got some pneumatic (pull) actuators and some heims to fit them.



And to control the air to the locker actuator I got some 12v solenoids (on the far left and in the above pic) and a regulator . I am going to use the rubicon locker switch on the dash to control them.



Since I have to move the engine trans TC over to the pass side a few inches, I got a push/pull cable (red) for the linkage.



I have an inline preoiler for my AC-OBA but I got this to replace it because it just looked so much better…LOL it has an adjustable feed and a big bowl and some other features I liked.

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Old 06-28-2010, 06:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I also got a bunch of these. They are 24” hydro lines. I don’t know if I can use them now, but they were cheap and I will be able to use them eventually.



HRWT (hot rolled welded tube) 1.5”x.120 wall
4’x 8’ sheet of ¼”
3”x3” x¼” angle
DOM 2” x ¼”wall round tube
DOM 1.5” x ¼” wall round tube





And the peas de résistance, a 122db loud speaker (for telling the person standing on the rock in front of me I don’t need a spot up and to move…LOL), and a 153db:ahhh: , 24” air horn (in case they didn’t hear me the first time)



14” Rancho coil overs



made a cable shifter for the TC
when i got it all together and adjusted to the end of the adjuster i made, i was only able to engage 4hi, N, and 4lo. so i am going to pull it back apart and add some adjustability into the lever on the TC for a longer throw





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Old 06-28-2010, 06:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I got the engine moved over about 3.5” to the pass side. Thanks Ed for the piece of steel.
I am a firm believer in use what you got so I just reworked the OEM mounts instead of making new ones. In hindsight it probably would have been easier to use some bushings I already have and just started from scratch.

pass side





drivers side





Made the actuators work for the lockers. The front still needs a little tweaking to be done.

Rear







the small coupler for the front and rear aren't the same, but they both use the small pivit studs from the OEM trans shifter. recycle

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Old 06-28-2010, 06:44 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Front





I needed more volume for the steering system so I shopped around for a small tank, but either didn’t like what I saw or didn’t like the price. So I made my own.
I originally intended for it to go behind the driver’s front tire against the firewall, but nixed that. Then I went through three more designs all made out of cardboard, and hated them all. This is what I ended up with. When you see the mounting spot, the design will make more sense.
I welded the inside and the outside where I could to minimize leaks.



The front
i also added lots of wire to the corners to minimize leaks.



The top



The bottom to fee the pump.



The font will have a sight glass with a thermometer. The guard needs to be clearance some for the welds.



Front bung is for a filter.



And the cap is vented and filtered with a dipstick and a debris basket.

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Old 06-28-2010, 06:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Got a coat of paint on it before I had to leave for work.




I also fiber glassed an electric fan housing to my OEM fan shroud. (Don’t laugh at my horrible glass skills, its harder than metal to work with IMHO)





Mike G came over and we went to cutting. (that kid is some kind of saws all master!!! thanks bro)
Cut the front of the frame off just in front of the engine mounts, and the rear of the frame off in front of the wheel wells, including the two rearmost cross members and bumper and tire carrier.







I always hated the way the Nth Tummy Tuck (and the OEM skid) supported the drive train and was the skid plate. I wanted to be able to remove the skid and have the drive train stay in place so this is what I did.

Started by cutting the OE mount (shoulda just made it out of ¼” cuz its the weakest part of the whole deal), cut it up and mated it to two short tranny mounts I had on the shelf from Nth degree mobility.





Then I welded up a mount to mate up.



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Old 06-28-2010, 06:45 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Then I bent up a piece of 1.5” x .120” wall DOM to snake from one frame rail to the other.



Added the mount where it needed to be.



Added the end pieces.



Just so happen to have a set of new leaf spring bushings that were an exact press fit.



Welded some ¼” tabs on the frame where they needed to be.



Painted the bar up all pretty and pressed in the bushings (or vice versa).



Installed it.



Bent to clear the DS (the DS is at full drop in the pic).



I put it in the space in between the trans and the TC.

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Old 06-28-2010, 06:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
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And it takes no clearance and it actually putts the drive train up higher than the tummy tuck I did have.



here is the visual of the calculator



One set cleaned up, and one to go.



Here the two sides are welded together. I left the top so I can weld the first layer to the axle, then weld the second layer to the axle.



Here is where they will be on the axle. Once they are boxes and braced they will be plenty strong.



i got started on the cross member that will hold the front of the rear lowers.
I will save further explanation/description till I have more pics and more work done.





35 lbs of gold!




Working on getting the X member finished.
Still need to box in the front and sides.
It will slide up in between the frame rails and be bolted on the sides with a couple of 5/8ths bolts each side, and a couple on the bottom of the frame rail each side.



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Old 06-28-2010, 06:46 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I have welded both sides of the edges I can get to.
And it will bolt to the back of the skid plate through 4 more 5/8ths bolts to sturdy it more.



The plate leaning up against it in this pic will bee the rearmost rib of the new skid and the two will be bolted together.
On a side note I had/have a lot of steel to drill so I went and got a GOOD 41/64ths (a size up from 5/8ths for a little alignment room) bit, and I now own the most expensive drill bit I will probably ever buy!



added the smaller pieces to close in the cross member





and i added in the front pieces









here it is with the bolts in it



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Old 06-28-2010, 06:47 PM   #16 (permalink)
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and i added some access holes for the bolts to the inside of the framerails
i still need to add the endcaps



I tacked (big tacks so the impact won’t break them free, but not too big that I cant break them off with an air hammer if they needed replacing) some washers and nuts to the inside of the end plates before I welded them on.



And then I burned em in.





I even tried to get the inside, through the access holes.



And now its done.
I still need to drill the holes in the Jeep frame (I already marked them while the cross member ends were free) and I will bolt it up tomorrow.
I will wait to paint everything till I’m done.



Finished mounting the link arm x-member.



And I got the rear upper axle brackets made and nailed down.



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Old 06-28-2010, 06:47 PM   #17 (permalink)
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And got the pieces to box them and gusset them ready to go.



Finished up the rear upper mounts.
The flash isn’t working on my camera so the pics don’t look all that good.
Boxed em and braced em, I think they should hold.







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Old 06-28-2010, 10:50 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Holly shit!You work fast....Can't believe you posted this thread in 17 minutes
Keep up the good work.
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Old 06-28-2010, 11:01 PM   #19 (permalink)
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im wondering why go with the portal axles and gain all that clearance under the tubes to just go and soak it up with the lower link mounts hanging off the bottom?
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Old 06-29-2010, 04:43 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clemsonjeep View Post
im wondering why go with the portal axles and gain all that clearance under the tubes to just go and soak it up with the lower link mounts hanging off the bottom?
Same thought I had. If the bottom link mounts stay where you currently have them, they are going to be a source of frustration for you,ie...hanging up on rocks and getting tweaked from constant impacts. You also might want to re-think where you have your fire extinguisher mounted. Good idea having one in your rig, but it would be difficult to use after being knocked out because the 5lb extinguisher broke away from the cheap plastic mount and bounced off your head during a roll. Not knocking your build or your skill level, just pointing out a couple of possible issues.
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Old 06-29-2010, 07:32 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I would strip all that doodad gadget crap out...
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Old 06-29-2010, 12:56 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Holly shit!You work fast....Can't believe you posted this thread in 17 minutes
Keep up the good work.
Hehehe.. I belong to LSJC and just copied it here from our site to catch up to where I am now.
thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by clemsonjeep View Post
im wondering why go with the portal axles and gain all that clearance under the tubes to just go and soak it up with the lower link mounts hanging off the bottom?
Trust me I wanted the lowers in line with the axle, but I also wanted to keep my Jeep looking like a Jeep (I decided I want to keep the rear tub), BUT I want to keep it as low as possible. The amount of rotational torque these axles produce is high so the axle end mounts need a good bit of separation to survive. If I were to put the bottom link in line with the axle like I wanted to do, I would have had to raise the upper link and then raise the body. I don’t have a body lift (don’t like ‘em) and I am going to cut into the floor of the rear tub and raise it up some (just a couple inches above the axle) for clearance. But its all a compromise.
Still though, having my lower links 19 inches off the ground, when I’m only running 39.50”s is better than most conventional axle set ups and that’s the lowest part as its even with the bottom of the diff.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugger99 View Post
it would be difficult to use after being knocked out because the 5lb extinguisher broke away from the cheap plastic mount and bounced off your head during a roll. Not knocking your build or your skill level, just pointing out a couple of possible issues.
I never thought of that. I have heard several of my buddies say that in a fire I wouldn’t be able to get to it, but being right by my head I thought it would be easy to grab, but never thought about it coming loose in a roll…hmmm, might have to move it now.

Quote:
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I would strip all that doodad gadget crap out...
You mean the toggle switches for the lights? Cant get much simpler than a toggle switch.
Or do you mean the OBA? I need OBA.
And besides, I like doodad gadget crap. Strike that, I love it.

Last edited by BenE; 06-29-2010 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 06-30-2010, 01:12 AM   #23 (permalink)
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here are so many compromises when using portal axles. Without building a buggy I dont think you could tuck the lower links flat with the belly.

good to see someone else using 404 axles though, how are you dealing with the front axle placement? Did moving the engine over give you all the clearance you need for drive shafts and up travel?
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Old 06-30-2010, 04:28 PM   #24 (permalink)
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here are so many compromises when using portal axles. Without building a buggy I dont think you could tuck the lower links flat with the belly.

good to see someone else using 404 axles though, how are you dealing with the front axle placement? Did moving the engine over give you all the clearance you need for drive shafts and up travel?
Agreed. To keep it low I removed the frame (still don’t know how I will be routing the tube) and I am going to cut the floor and build a little hump where the pumpkin and links are. I also compromised a little with link separation; I wanted 12” but ended up with IIRC ~9”.
Moving the engine and removing the frame and relocating the radiator fixed the up travel, and I think made it so I can run a one piece DS (might have to clearance the bell housing and/or run a small diameter DS), but I have a two piece shaft I can cut up and use if I need to.
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Old 07-29-2010, 12:41 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I got a little time to work on the heap. Spent most of it staring at it trying to decide what I wanted to do.
Got tired of trying to work around the part of the frame rails that the engine mounts were attached to, so I cut them off. I will hang the engine from the fenders (its all .120 wall DOM) and be braced off the tube that comes forward to brace the coil over’s and mount the winch bunpstops and rad.



Now I got lots of room for the uppers wich will mount to the ends of the framerails.







Got the frame end mounts for the front and rear cut (not done yet) and started on the upper and lower axle end mounts for the front axle.



For the lowers, I am building a cross member (boxed in ¼” like the rear) that will bolt to the inside of the frame rail and to the skid plate. Here it is mocked in cardboard.
The bearing for the two piece DS will be bolted to the top where the flat spot is. After its boxed in of coarse.





It will give me lots of clearance for front axle flex.




This set up will give me 9” vertical separation at the axle and an adjustable 5” – 12” of vertical separation at the frame.
The links will be running practically 90* to the axle, with a panhard bar.
Upper links will be ~27” long and the lowers ~36”.
Any body see a problem with this? I am very concerned about the pinion angle throughout the axles travel as its so long and the DS will be so short. Any body good with front link set ups want to add their two cents about how I am setting this up?
I could possibly run both the upper and lower frame end brackets off the frame (no cross member) and maybe squeeze in a one piece shaft. Any body want to comment on this? Have any experience with a two piece shaft I should know about?
I have a DS from a 1 ton PU I am going to cut up, and then I have all the other parts I need to make it work too.
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