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Old 10-01-2010, 04:52 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 96_xj View Post
Wow this is a GREAT build!
Thanks man!

I got the engine side of the motor mounts done today, I am mounting them off of the front of the motor. I flipped the mounts so I have more room to get em in. I got my power steering pump from TN Diesel Conversions, nice piece, everything clears

Might get it done some day!
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Old 10-07-2010, 10:53 AM   #52 (permalink)
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What Intercooler did you end up going with?
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Old 10-07-2010, 11:24 AM   #53 (permalink)
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What Intercooler did you end up going with?
I have not gotten one yet, but there are several ~20 inch egay special ones I am looking at.

Something like this one

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMPC-...#ht_1580wt_941

I will attach a picture for after the auction ends. The Egay ones usually have a pressure rating on them, some of the gasser ones are only ~20 psi, but many of them are rated 30+, just something to look at on the auction.

I am thinking of running 2 90's off the side horns through the area the CJ-7 headlights would be.

Got to get some use out of this ugly ass -10a grill
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Old 10-07-2010, 06:23 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Great build so far, will be watching. Keep up the good work
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Old 10-08-2010, 08:41 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Working on the motor mounts. I got the engine side done earlier, now on to the frame side.



With the motor mount. Late 80's Ford F150 liquid filled jobbies. HOPEFULLY they will cut down on at least 1 4bt vibration



The crossmember had a channel hacked to facilitate the D300 mounted to the stock 727. The crossmember had the center hacked out, but no means of reinforcement. The plasma cutter and a piece of Chevy Blazer frame fixed that pretty quick.



Lots of cleanup left, but its looking good. A couple of holes in the crossmember to mount the NV4500 and it is good to go. I have the whole mess sitting in the frame now, but it is too dark for pictures.
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Old 11-01-2010, 03:40 PM   #56 (permalink)
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I have been working on the frame. I had some serious stress cracks, so I replaced the entire frame from the trans crossmember back with 2x6x.188 rectangular stock. Much cleaner, stronger and easier to deal with

Not too exciting on the pictures, but it was a time consuming bitch to get everything in, lined up, and tacked in.

I threw the body back on to take a couple pics.



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Old 11-01-2010, 03:48 PM   #57 (permalink)
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I had a set of 64s from the Blazer I parted out for this build, and they seem to be all the rage for the Chevy and Toy guys, so I thought I would give it a shot. There is a lot of reinforcement to be done, this is just a proof of concept model.

Rear hangers are DIY 4x I carefully (forcefully!) removed from the Blazer frame, front hanger for now is the front spring hanger from the blazer. I have a set of DIY 4 position spring hangers for the front that will replace the Blazer parts. The shackle position seems OK for now, but I have a lot of weight to add and I would like to have the option of easy adjustability!





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Old 11-01-2010, 03:53 PM   #58 (permalink)
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I have never been happy with the front axle placement. It always seemed off. The 37s looked crammed in the back of the wheel well and they would hit on turning, especially when it was heavily loaded.

I have looked into a BUNCH of fixes for this, from zero rates (but I really do not want it much higher!) to welded on perches to move the axle (slightly sketchy) to replacing the front springs entirely (not really where I wanted to go with this build)





You can see where the wheels have been rubbing on the fenders. It is curled down in the back of the wheel well.
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Old 11-01-2010, 04:04 PM   #59 (permalink)
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I decided to take the easy way out. The front fender flares are shot anyway, and I had a set of TJ flares. The rear flares are not quite the right shape for the -10 front opening, but I am a creative little bastard and I own a heat gun, so it cant be that hard, right?

I think it came out pretty darn good.

It looks like it really opens up the wheel well, the wheel looks more centered, and I am not worried about it rubbing on the flare any more.

Moreover it just about exactly lines up width wise with the bed, and almost completely covers the 37s.





A lot more work to go on them, but I think they are coming out well. I can not find a source for the stock flares at all, even in Australia-land, where these were a "stock" production vehicle. I think I can get these TJ flares to be "good enough"

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Old 11-05-2010, 03:43 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Couple of pics of where the 4BTA ended up in the engine bay before I tear her down again.

The NV is in a prefect place, the centerline of the engine is behind the front axle. It ended up a little forward of where I really would have wanted it, but it makes it cake to work on the back of the engine or pull the bellhousing, so I cant complain too much.

I am going to pull off that spacer, it should give me a bunch more room to put in a rad and fan. I may pull off the V pulley it has as well. I was thinking about adding a York to the accessory drive, but that might have to wait.









Space looks good for an intercooler and a radiator, but I think AC condenser space is a little lacking. But, I don't even have a mount for a compressor yet! I have been toying with putting it between the cab and box mounted with a couple fans. This setup worked well for the back AC in our ambulances. We will just have to see. Might never install it!
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Old 11-05-2010, 07:12 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Old 11-07-2010, 01:44 PM   #62 (permalink)
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I need to find a Cj10.
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:39 AM   #63 (permalink)
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Damn thing fell apart again.





I am chasing a half inch in the diagonal from rr-lf (.5 inches over 180 inches is probably acceptable...). The chain and comealong has helped, but I do not think it can pull it all out.

The entire frame has a horizontal bow in it, kinda like this if you are looking down on it, (( instead of ||. I think this is from years of military abuse and running it into a tree. I have squared up my spring mounts and worked on taking out the bow, and I have gotten it from ~2 inches to ~1.25 inches. Everything else is lining up well. It looks like the bow means I am, at worst, off .8 degrees. That is within most alignment specs.

Everything bolts on "straight", the axles are "straight", and I believe every Jeep from that era comes from the factory with a little frame tweak... (or maybe all the ones I have dealt with have been used hard and put away wet... or a little of both)
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Old 11-08-2010, 04:53 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Are you running the CJ10s original front springs?

If you haven't flipped them, you can turn them around for around a 2" stretch.
______

Keep up the good work. I need to finish my crawler CJ10 and get to my daily driver one so we can roll up someplace together. I bet it would turn some heads around here.
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:57 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Are you running the CJ10s original front springs?

If you haven't flipped them, you can turn them around for around a 2" stretch.
______

Keep up the good work. I need to finish my crawler CJ10 and get to my daily driver one so we can roll up someplace together. I bet it would turn some heads around here.
Yeah you do. Houston - CJ-10a Central, who'da thunk?

Did you move the steering with flipping the springs? With them sprung over, and with the D44 H1 arms, the steering was close to hitting (drag link too far forward/about to run into the tie rod). I think I could get 1 inch out of them, but 2 would have been a stretch. I though I could get by that with the D60 and helicopter arms, but the oil pan is in the way. I only really need an inch, I was thinking of drilling the spring plates.

I toyed with putting in a set of 52 inch Chevy rears, but it looked like too much of a pain for the front. The 64 inch rears are very nice and flexy/bouncy, though!

I did get some DIY4x front shackles to replace the stock stamped tin ones
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Old 11-09-2010, 05:29 PM   #66 (permalink)
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I'm actually running XJ rears up front for a 6" stretch, but I'm running full hydro.

Do you have room to move the steering box forward some?
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Old 12-17-2010, 01:45 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Any updates Gavan? This thing was looking
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Old 12-17-2010, 09:35 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Blew up the air compressor, waiting on parts, busy with the holidays, new job (but hopefully more money to work on it!) excuses, excuses excuses

I actually have made a lot of progress, but nothing picture worthy. I have all the metal coming in the mail to glue the cab back together, I have a set of manual pedals coming to convert it to clutch from automatic.

I raped a first gen cummins of an idler pulley, fan, intake horn, intercooler tubes and fan, so I have a lot more to work with now.

I have some pretty decent tech on the body mounts, I am pretty sure I found some polyurethane aftermarket replacements for the "stock" mounts, and a different place to tie in the rear most mounts, my stock mounts had a lot of stress cracking in the body.

Getting there, slowly.
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Old 01-13-2011, 04:37 PM   #69 (permalink)
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I HATE body work with a passion, but the plasma makes it tolerable

It is just so time consuming

This



to This



to This




And, or course, the passenger side too



Lots or progress on the frame too, but nothing that interesting, lots of grinding, gusseting and welding.
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:44 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Nice...So did you get your front spring issues settled? I flipped mine around for a 2" stretch, without interferrence issues, but I'm running a D60, dually front. I found after wheeling on the stock springs, they sagged quite a bit. I have since added another leaf to the pack from a set of CJ springs. You might want to beef your's up running that 4BT
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Old 01-14-2011, 10:27 AM   #71 (permalink)
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I actually got a bigger/beefier shackle for the front end, that seemed to help. I think the 4BT and SD33 are somewhat similiar in weight, the front springs seemed to handle everything just fine. The modified TJ rear fender flares on the front fenders seemed to help the wheel center up in the opening. I really like how you cut your front fenders and I think it turned out nice, but I am trying to keep from doing that on this one (yet!).

The rear is sitting up a little bit extra now, but the 63s on the rear are really flexy and they settle down quickly. It should ride close to level, or just a little down in front, with the body and everything on the truck.

I have some zero rates and can move the front axle up a bit if I need to.
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Old 01-14-2011, 10:36 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Nice work!
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Old 01-20-2011, 02:19 PM   #73 (permalink)
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This thing done yet? What's taken you so long ?????
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Old 01-20-2011, 03:20 PM   #74 (permalink)
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This thing done yet? What's taken you so long ?????
Could be wrecking it, moving 1500 miles, new house or a complete change of drivetrain. Could also be the extensive rust and frame damage I found tearing it down.

Could be that I am a slacker.

Probably is that I dont have your garage and years of experience to help me out

BTW, good to see you kept the TJ. I though you were thinking about selling it too!
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Old 01-27-2011, 06:02 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Frame is DONE! Motor mounts, shock mounts, body mounts, bed mounts, spring mounts, shackle mounts, everything is finalized and installed. Good feeling. Lots more finish work and it needs a coat of paint, but I am not officially a bunch closer. I think it came out pretty good for what I had to work with. I had to scrap the entire back half of the frame due to cracking and damage.

No close up shots. My welding ego would shrink too much!









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