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Old 10-31-2010, 08:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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MuddyPaws 3.0 - Another YJ on tons

This build started a few weeks ago so there will be a bunch of posts quickly and then it will slow to the pace of the build.

I'll post up what I have so far to get you all caught up. I teach Automotive Service at a High School Career Center so some of the build is happening with my students as parts of it pertain to the educational section they are covering. I have to add this disclaimer though since in the past I have had to defend stupid accusations. No, the school doesn't pay for my crap. I fund this on my own since it is my rig. I do however allow students to run the rigs in the local mud runs, some comps around the state, parades and other wheelin events. I also have to carry an additional insurance rider (my cost) to cover personal injury on them. I do this because I want to expose them to the sport. It also lets them get involved in something creative and teaches them more skills like planning, budgeting, welding, accurate measuring and exposes them to other areas of the automotive field than just the normal repair track.

Anyhow, here we go:

Started with a red-neck 1992 YJ, 4.0, 5 speed mudder that already had a 60 front and 14 bolt rear.


Plans:

Convert to auto
One Tons
8-10 inch stretch
Something between 38 and 44 inch tires (depends on what's available for sale at the time)
Inner Air Locks
Minimal lift, maximum cutting
Lots of armor
Boat Sides
Tube fenders and DIY high line hood


Last edited by MuddyPaws; 10-31-2010 at 09:19 AM.
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Old 10-31-2010, 08:49 AM   #2 (permalink)
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It is full full of red neck engineering that needs to be re-done. I don't know who built it and I really don't want to offend them. Like most things, the way I do something might not be the way you would do it and vise versa.

I bought it for some of the parts it had and the potential it has. One tons, 5.56 gears, lockers, short shaft in the tcase, good 37x14 Iroks and a 4.0 all in a ok body were worth the price to me. The fab on it that I will be changing is just stuff.

Need to lower it Never had a Jeep I ever said that about. :lol: It's tall.






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Old 10-31-2010, 08:51 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Not bad but I want to get the trans more level and go flat on the belly.



Gotta ditch the straps and get u-bolts.



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Old 10-31-2010, 08:52 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Rear disk





Gotta ditch the rocker guards. Bummer they are welded to the frame too.



Seen better days



Rear anti-wrap :P . I really couldn't tell you why there are anti-wrap on here. This is the stiffest suspension I have ever ridden in.



Front a little rednecky...also has the anti wrap setup that just doesn't work on it. Why do people do this? The springs can't move with anti-wrap like that.


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Old 10-31-2010, 08:54 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Cage



bash will be gone with comp cut



More shady fab stuff

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Old 10-31-2010, 09:00 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Gonna take many hours of un fabbing before we can start fabbing.

Anyone notice how the track bar was mounted? Go back and look at the mounts and see if you can spot the problem.

Also I just found out the steering stabilizer is actually a RS9000 adjustable SHOCK.

Gutted a XJ I picked up for 100 bucks for the donor parts and to sell off anything I can to help fund the YJ build.



Gonna use the AW4 from the XJ in the YJ. Was going to use the tcase too be found out it was a 242. Then found out later that the 231 from the 5 speed YJ had the same input as the 231. I thought the manual and auto were different. Anyway, that's cool. The YJ came with a shorty HD SYE.



Pulled the inside out and cleaned out literally about 40 pounds of mud. Found chains, tools and other things buried in the mud.



Pulled the fender flares off in prep for tubing the front and comp cut in the rear.

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Old 10-31-2010, 09:11 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Going to clock the 231 on the AW4 for a flat belly.

This is the tail of the 5 speed. Notice the bolt holes.



This is the tail of the AW4. The holes are clocked just a little to the left. What you do is re-drill new holes in the AW4 tail to clock the tcase up. 3/4 of a inch rotation for the bolt holes make a big difference in where the tacse sits.

It looks funky but there is actually plenty of meat to drill.

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Old 10-31-2010, 09:11 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Planning for a 1 inch motor mount lift and as flat a belly as I can get. I want it to be more like MuddyPaws 1...the first YJ was.

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Old 10-31-2010, 09:13 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Got the rear stuff pulled....axle, gas tank springs and shocks....Also got the drilling done to clock the NP231 on the new AW4. No pics of that though.

Ready for a re-fab of the rear frame and the s t r e t c h



Also finally got the damn rocker guards off. Getting ready for boat sides. :yeah:



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Old 10-31-2010, 09:14 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Got the rear frame cut off. Going to take a different direction with the rear frame so I can make the rig lower.



Also got the front springs pulled out so we can cut off the red neck mounts and get ready for the waggy springs i'm picking up this weekend. Ditching the super long shackles and redoing the front mounts to get lower and longer in the front.

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Old 10-31-2010, 09:15 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Woot. Package in the mail today.



New stuff....

Picked up the front waggy springs. No pic, they look like springs. And picked up some tirz. Complete with Inner Air Locks and IAL rock rings. :woot:



I like big tires. These are 39.5's that i'll run for now but I would like to get 42's or 43's in the SX2 flavor.

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Old 10-31-2010, 09:18 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Time to do something about the front....



Lots of cut off crap on the 1/8 plate. This needs to come off. 1/8 isn't going to handle a winch.



And WTF? This is a chrome bumper just welded on and welded to the 1/8 plate.



Going to change the front mounts and make them smaller and more slide over a rock-able. This will also lower the rig. All this is coming off.



After all the cutting, there is just too much damage from welding and cutting to the front of the frame. It's also been sorta kinda repaired at the steering box. Sooooooo.....Looks like i'll cut the whole front of the frame off right behind the steering box and re-build it. It'll give me a chance to move the steering box forward a couple inches for the stretch.

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Old 10-31-2010, 09:22 AM   #13 (permalink)
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God I hate mud. This thing is packed full of mud in every possible location.

Got the fender off. Still working on the other side. one stinking bolt is giving me trouble. I gotta get my tube so I can start making the fenders.



Just got back from the shop. Had to go over and prep for tomorrow's lessons. After I was done with that I tinkered with the Jeep for a hour or so.

Got the rear of the frame ready for the new parts.



Then I had to deal with the front shackle hangers. This is what I had on one side....



This is what I had on the other side...just the end of a spring cut off and welded on.



Good bye.



Front adapters came in...front is ball joint 60, 8 on 170 so I am converting it to 8 on 6.5. I know I could re-drill but then I would have to re-drill every time I repaired something up there and in an emergency I can still get off the shelf parts.



Got the bender mounted. Not too sure how it will hold up but I had this thing sitting around so we used it.



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Old 10-31-2010, 09:23 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Got a little done last night.

Hacked off the front of the frame in prep for the stretch and steering box relocation.



Gen-Right corners finally came in so I marked the cut for those. Didn't take a pic of the cut. It's not done.



Did the Ford E350 brake upgrade. Write-up is located here: http://www.michiganwheelers.com/foru...ad.php?t=17922

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Old 10-31-2010, 09:25 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Started the cutting......



And got all the crap off the front so I can start the front frame stretch and steering box relocation. Frame will be maybe a inch longer and the box will be moved forward about 2 or 3 inches.

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Old 10-31-2010, 09:27 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Going hydro assist. Ordered up a ram kit from East Coast Gear Supply. Comes with everything. I will be running a home made high volume power steering reservoir and a cooler off a 1999 F250 with a v10.

Got the box drilled and tapped. The top hole will have high pressure when the steering wheel is turned right. Bottom hole will have high pressure when the wheel is turned left.



The pic below is taken from a forum thread that seems to have gone away now. It's borrowed now from a billavista writeup located here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...Tap/index.html

Quote:
The Left port (blue arrow) is drilled centered on the box casting seam (not sure this is true for all boxes)

The right port (green arrow) is drilled inline with the stock port indicated by the red arrow.
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Old 10-31-2010, 09:31 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I have piles of parts but not all of anything. Now the building starts. Gotta get the front and rear frame built. I am going to do the front first.

I bought a Gen Right stretch gas tank from a guy down state and it won't be to me till next week. I am waiting to build the rear frame till when I get the tank so I can push it as far back, and as far up as I can for clearance and stretch.

More parts collecting. Thanks Vic. Anti-Wrap bar for the rear. I know, coulda built it but for 25 bucks and it has bushings and a flex joint....i'm cheap and this is one less thing we have to build.

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Old 10-31-2010, 09:35 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Been collecting more parts.



Gen-Right stretch gas tank and skid plate.




Started cutting more crap off. Seems I have just spent hours and hours just cutting shit off. Started the cut for boat sides. Not going to finish the cut till I get the sides in. Local place is bending it up.


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Old 10-31-2010, 09:35 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Ok, time to do something about this....



Start with this...



2x4 1/4 wall tube is not wide enough for the steering box bracket so a plate needs to be added. Should increase strength also.





Then flip it over, drill the hoes, then put sleeves in.





Laying out the frame.


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Old 10-31-2010, 09:37 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Tacked it together and test fit.





Then pulled it back off and welded it all up. Capped off the ends of the built in bumper.



All welded together and then tacked into place.







End result.....2 inch frame stretch and moved the steering box 4 inches forward.

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Old 11-01-2010, 04:58 AM   #21 (permalink)
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wish i had a teacher like you when I was in high school. great to see you passing on skills that kids will actually be able to use later in life. build looks good so far. gotta love fixing other peoples rig jobs.
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Old 11-01-2010, 06:18 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Nice looking start. The stuff you are teaching these kids will last them forever. Most of us have had to hack stuff up and then try to figure out how to fix it. I have a young man across the street from me who is 14 and working with me he has been introduced to welding, metal fab, engine/tranny work etc and told me the other day he wants to go to mechanic school after high school. I told him great, then you can come back and teach me the right way.
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Old 11-01-2010, 06:32 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Congrats on the new YJ! I wheeled with you in the V1 in Grayling back when it was still MJ and you had the boggers rear/ tsl front config. I too called on this Yj and decided to buy a different rig. Many of the things you are planning are also in my plan, although you move faster than me! Subscribed, I cant wait to see you out on the trails with it.
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Old 11-01-2010, 06:39 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Spent just a little time after Nicholas' wrestling practice tonight. Added a chunk of 2x4 for the pad to mount the front spring hanger.





From inside the 2x4 I can access one of the steering box bolts. Think I should add a small gusset inside the tube to keep it from crushing?



I'm not the greatest welder but my crap doesn't fall off. hehe



Going to mount these from the underside

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Old 11-01-2010, 06:59 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorhead0320 View Post
wish i had a teacher like you when I was in high school. great to see you passing on skills that kids will actually be able to use later in life. build looks good so far. gotta love fixing other peoples rig jobs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Malibu View Post
Nice looking start. The stuff you are teaching these kids will last them forever. Most of us have had to hack stuff up and then try to figure out how to fix it. I have a young man across the street from me who is 14 and working with me he has been introduced to welding, metal fab, engine/tranny work etc and told me the other day he wants to go to mechanic school after high school. I told him great, then you can come back and teach me the right way.
Thanks guys. It's a bunch of fun working with the kids. Sometimes i'll be sitting there at lunch thinking of a way to do something and then one of the kids will come over with a idea that is so simple. They really eat this stuff up. Last week we were going over how to use a hydraulic brake line flaring tool, then off they went taking turns doing brake lines on the Jeep. Learning and building at the same time. They were even thinking ahead about the tube fenders and "will the lines clear the fenders and shock towers". Shocks aren't even ordered yet. LOL

Quote:
Originally Posted by CjSchan View Post
Congrats on the new YJ! I wheeled with you in the V1 in Grayling back when it was still MJ and you had the boggers rear/ tsl front config. I too called on this Yj and decided to buy a different rig. Many of the things you are planning are also in my plan, although you move faster than me! Subscribed, I cant wait to see you out on the trails with it.
I offered less than what he was asking and went and got it. Sold the rims, tires, crossmember, springs, anti-wrap link things, seats, rear seat brackets, transmission, clutch, flywheel, front and rear diff covers, tail lights and front fenders.

Then on the XJ i bought for 100 bucks I sold the 4.0, tires, stock rims, tail lights, front seats, drive shafts, front and rear axles and steering gear. It also came with a spare front drive shaft, steering gear, D30 axle shafts and 4 inch front springs.....all of which I sold.

By the time it was all said and done, counting the XJ I bought for the AW4 trans, I paid about 600 bucks for the YJ. I don't think that's too bad.
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