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Old 02-19-2011, 10:27 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Thats a mean lookin stance.


Very Nice
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Old 02-21-2011, 07:39 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Man thats nice!
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Old 03-07-2011, 08:59 PM   #28 (permalink)
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ok, so I haven't updated this is a bit mainly due to the fact that I haven't gotten too much big stuff done as catching up on the little things is time consuming. So i deceided to upgrade welders before I did the finish welding on the front end. I picked up a mm211 from my LWS for a pretty sweet deal. I am impressed with the performance on both 110v and 220v. It will burn through 3/8ths like its going out of style, as I learned when I was burning my sway bar brackets on.

So I finished welding the links and brackets for the front end, installed the dual rate sway lok, got he driveshafts installed (and a new 14 bolt yoke w/ u bolts after I broke a tap off in the stock one when I was cleaning the threads up), got the front turn signals and market lights wired in and installed along wiht the head lights, mounted all of the underhood stuff back on the fender inners, installed a new yellow top after routing some of the large cabling, and welded and installed the new A pillar stancions. I also installed the 11" BBCSs in the front, to match my BBCS 15" rears, to only find out that they were a bit too short with the mounting configuration I was running. So I started searching for a inexpensive fix for raising the front shock mounting position. I ended up deceiding to cut the tops out of the factory front shock towers and graft in some ford truck shock brackets (for 30 bucks at your local dealer you really can't go wrong). Haven't finished them yet but will post pics once complete.

As I was sitting there taking in the stance and after cycling the front suspension, I decided that the skycrapper springs had to go as they were to tall and to stiff. I looked around at the OME 2.5" and the AEV 3" coils, but kind of saw that as alot of coin, especially after the fact that I was medically retired from the Army last month. So I looked into the RC 2.5 progressive rate coils, but couldn't find any posts of people running them on anything other than some mall crawlers and bolt on rigs. So after noticing that the springs come with a life time warranty and a 60 day return policy if you don't like them, I deceided to call Jeff and he gave a me deal I coundn't resist. So here is what the heep looks like with RC 2.5s, ACOSs at 0 lift front and rear, and a 1" BL:





After taking a step back and looking at the stance I deceided to add 1" to the front ACOSs and stay at 0" for the rears, mainly due to the fact that I haven't figured the rear bumper/tire carreir situation out yet and know that the spare trep has some weight on it. So here is how she sits now:





So soon after the pics were taken I pu the front on jack stands and pulled the knuckles to drill and install my ballistic inserts for my OTK swap and cut some of the end off of my chromo 35 spline stubs as they are contacting the inside of my hub. Seems that this isn't that uncommon of a problem as there are a few posts on here about the same issue. Seems that most think somehow chevy stubs were substituted or mistakenly shipped, but who knows. I would take it up with the vendor but its been over 6 months since I purchased the 35 spline upgrade.

So list of stuff to still do is finish the steering, install hydro assist, fix stub/hub contact issue, replace the rear brake hard feeder line after I accidently pancaked it between the frame and the upper control arm bolt when I was tightening it with the impact, finish the rest of the brakes, finish cage, install 4 point harnesses, paint all of the primered panels an unkown color, figure out the rear bumper/tir carrier, and finally take her for a spin.
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Old 03-08-2011, 09:39 AM   #29 (permalink)
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What rear shock bracket is that? Ford?
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Old 03-08-2011, 10:13 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fnbuggy View Post
What rear shock bracket is that? Ford?
They are the genright rear shock/coilover mounts. I will be using the ford mounts for the front.
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Old 03-31-2011, 08:14 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Well I haven't had a ton of time to work on the heep lately due to crappy weather and the wife's greenhouse project. I've mainly been hung up on working out some little kinks, so here is the current list of discoveries and changes.

Current wheel base is 98" with little to no where left to go with out hitting the genright ext tank or having contact issue with the pitman arm and the trac bar. So I see and genright comp tank in my future in order to achieve that additional 2 plus inches of stretch.

I didn't take into consideration the lower coil when I first welded the front UCA mount on the truss, so when I lowered the jeep I had contact issues with the ege of the frame when flexed. So I ended up having to cut the mount off and go through 2 different location until I finally got everything lined up.

I thought that the stock power steering pump was pushing the assist ram ok, but it lost pressure fairly quickly. So I hooked up a new PSC pump kit from Andrew at letzrolloffroad. I have to admit that PSC has some top notch products that work flawlessly.

I ended up having issues with the front brake lines and the ford dual piston calipers. Main issues were from the 3/8ths banjo bolts and the larger diameter hole on the brake line. So I ended up pieceing together front lines from some JEGS and Russells AN-3 adapters and fittings along with some Earl's hyperfirm brake hoses. End result was great once I put a larger washer between the caliper and the hose adapter so the hose fitting wouldn't contact the caliper. Also on this note and the ongoing debate over one tome brakes and MC/booster combos. I upgraded to the MC out of an 01 durango and am using the stock TJ booster to run ford dual piston fronts with chevy 3/4 ton rears. The end result is great stopping power and awesome holding force even when shifted into low ( 4 to 1 with 5.13s on 40s).

The RC 2.5 progressive rate spring didn't last. I maybe put 20 miles on them, with no wheeling, and the front began to sag pretty bad. My assumption is that they aren't designed to hold up to the V8 driveline and added weight of the body armor. So I now have a set of OME HD springs on order and the RC springs are being returned to RC under their 60 day guarantee.

I got the stock front shock towers cut off and grafted the f250 mounts intol the pockets and burned in. Was able to compensate for the angle created with the front stretch and it worked out pretty good. Was driving around breaking the new gears in when I noticed that my front driver BBCS 11C was puking oil on itself. So it is on its merry way back to poly and a new one will be inbound. Might also have to swap out the 15cs for some 13cs, as it appears that I will need a little more uptravel than this set up now allows.

I put about 25 miles on the jeep with about 15 being in 4 high in order to break the new 5.13s in. This was my first time setting up gears by myself, and also the first time ever setting up a GM axle. I was pretty meticulous about the backlash, patterns, and pinion preload but for some reason seem to be getting more pinion slop than I expected. This is mainly in the 14 bolt, which gets a little less than 1/4 of a turn when shifted in to gear. But I read that this axle, coupled with the detroit, will produce slop. My only issue is that I swear it sounds like it has something banging in the t case. I will be relooking my transmission mount and will most likely being beefing it up along with a little retooling.

I'm still dialing my stak RAC TJ shifters in. This is an ongoing battle as my rear shifter would pass through all 3 position, but the front wouldn't. Now, after adding jam nuts and messing with the linkages, the front goes through all 3 position but now the rear won't go into low. So I will continue to screw with these shifters and hit northwestfab up to continue to see of their cable shifter set up will work in the little to no room I have to mess with.

More to follow as this project hopefully gets done so I can go wheel the $hit out of it.
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Last edited by knobby97; 03-31-2011 at 08:16 PM.
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Old 07-26-2011, 08:00 PM   #32 (permalink)
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So how far back do you think you moved the rear axle? I'm in the research phase of doing something like what you just did here. My goal is to be somewhere near 102".
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Old 07-26-2011, 08:23 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I was able to push the rear back about 4 inches or so with the 14 bolt and using genright rear upper spring mounts and the genright ext tank pushed as far back as it will go. The plan might be to change to a genright comp tank down the road but I don't really want to comp cut the back at the moment to accommodate more stretch. I'm still fine tuning the front and should have about 3 inches of stretch out of it once i'm done by relocating the spring buckets on the front axle truss, using a new frame side trac bar mount and trac bar, a genright twisted pitman arm, and grafting ford shock towers into where the factory shock towers were located.
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98 TJ w/ 5.2/44re/stak 300, fox coilovers, 40" treps on racelines, hp60, 14 bolt, geared, locked, linked, stretched, hilined, . . .
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Old 08-17-2011, 01:08 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Well I finally got around to wheeling the TJ for the first time this past weekend at gulches. Put it through it's motions on palmetto crossing, radical ravine, a few other various trails that I can't recall the names and heart breaker and trail 7 two times each. The only carnage the entire day was my front drivers BBCS shock that seems to have blown it's lower seal on the trailer during the ride up. Didn't notice it until we were taking the ratchet straps off prior to downloading the jeep. All in all I was impressed with the way the jeep performed. The radial treps worked awesome and I found that you can air them down to a little under 10 psi with the H2s and not have to worry about rolling off of the bead or the tires not looking up. The rear detroit and front Spartan combo worked great together along with the stak that finally works correctly. I did figure out that I'm going to have to make some sort of guide to show what gears the shifters are in. A few times there was some confusion as to if the front output was in a high/low or neutral. The added torque of the 5.2 and the auto trans made crawling right over things stupid easy. The only changes that I'm going to make, besides sending the BBCS shock back to poly for exchange, is lengthen the front lower bumpstops by 2 inches and add the center limiting strap that I already have, extend the rear spring guides by 2 inches so I can get rid of the annoying sound the springs are making when the guide almost unseats and then reseats after the guide pops over the edge of the pig tail that produces an awesome spring ringing noise (Miller can attest the awful noise), and add some rear air bumps. So enough with the writing and here are a front and rear shot of flexing the TJ out on the beginning of heartbreaker.



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Old 08-17-2011, 06:32 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Sweet jeep- Do you have any pics of your front upper control arms and trac bar? I am doing a similar build and am trying to figure out the best way to make it all work.

Thanks,
Scott
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:30 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Well I guess its time to get this thread up to date considering spring semester of grad school is over, I'm done screwing with the JKU for the moment, and I actually have a little time to turn a wrench and burn some metal now.

So I got the front coilovers finished, painter the corners and front fenders to match the tub, and then got everything put back together so I could figure out what to do next. A few issues that I needed to address were the steering geometry, ram mounts, bumpstops, and ditch the super tall TNT front truss.



During this time I was still accumulating parts such as 2 pairs of fox 2.0 2.5" travel air bumps (thanks to Alex at Carolina Truggies), offset chevy 1 ton TREs (RuffStuff), some new tabs and tie rod clamp from PSC, and an new front truss, lower and upper link mounts, and trace bar bracket from artec.



So I started with the steering by redoing my ram mounts and switching from the standard chevy 1 ton TREs to the offset units, so my tie rod now has much better clearance from the front diff cover and I don't think I'll have to cut up the cover or grind the crap out of it anymore. After getting this all wrapped up and cycled, I started getting a little irritated with stock ford kp knuckles and ballistic chevy OTK TRE inserts that I had welded in a while back. After a few PMs to some vendors on pirate4x4, a phone call to Chase at ECGS, I had a set of Reid ford kp outer knuckles sitting on my doorstep. I seriously wish that reid would have color options for their knuckles other than orange.





So I got the front air bump cans and limit straps finished up in a day, but still have to fab the landing pads for the bumps once I switch the trusses out in the next few days.





Then I moved to the rear air bumps today, got them burnt in but then the welder ran out of wire. So after a trip to airgas, northern tool, or tractor supply tomorrow for more wire, I should have the gussets cut and burnt in. Then only thing left for the rear is to fab the landing pads, which will be super easy on the rear artec truss, and get the rear put back together until at least the end of the season.



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98 TJ w/ 5.2/44re/stak 300, fox coilovers, 40" treps on racelines, hp60, 14 bolt, geared, locked, linked, stretched, hilined, . . .
08 JKU Rubi w/ 3.5" frankenlift, RRDs, 37"km2s on racelines, RIPP Supercharger and headers. . .
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:04 PM   #37 (permalink)
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nice work! looks clean
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:17 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Well finally figured I should get around to updating this thread. So long story short is I ran into some issues with my rear coilover mounting situation that left me with 1 3/4"s of uptravel with the 12" coilovers and a ride height that was about 3"s taller than where I wanted to be. So considering that my rear mounts were already frenched and welding into the frame, I wasn't left with too many options of how to reconfigure things that would allow me to keep the rear seat. The two options that I came up with were either cutting the current mounts out of the frame, renotching, welding in new mounts, then filling and fish plating any open spots in the frame. Option 2 was to cut the old mount off above the frame, the fab a new hoop that utilized the old notch to clear the coilover, then figure out how to stuff the hoops and supports into the well. So needless to say I went with option 2. Ended up having to cut the rear portions of the wheel wells out to clear the hoops and to run a cross over bar over the top of fuel cell. So here is what I ended up with:

This shows how the hoops fit into the wells.





Crossover bar over the fuel cell.



and the stuff I had to work around.



Heres how it fits around the rear seat:





and lastly, here are some new pics of her sitting on her own weight for the first time in a while. Well with dual rates reinstalled in the back instead of the mains resting on the stops:





Still have to finish the welding, add gussets, and paint all of the new stuff in the rear. Then have to move back to the front and get the trac bar squared and revisit the steering. I'm pretty close to saying "screw it" and chopping the front frame from the front hoops forward, replace with tube, skin the grill, tube out a radiator support, and just go to full hydro. More to follow . . .
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98 TJ w/ 5.2/44re/stak 300, fox coilovers, 40" treps on racelines, hp60, 14 bolt, geared, locked, linked, stretched, hilined, . . .
08 JKU Rubi w/ 3.5" frankenlift, RRDs, 37"km2s on racelines, RIPP Supercharger and headers. . .
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Old 10-17-2012, 04:58 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Kudos for an awesome yard-built rig. Thing looks badass with that stance and the comp cut.
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