1999 TJ 6.0L LY6 NV4500 NP241c 35's D44 D60 Daily Driver, Build Thread

[kmkommes]

I don’t have a whole lot of tech to add today. Just a quick update, I'll add pictures tonight.

I’m looking for thoughts on ride/frame height.

The current plan is/was to run
14” ORI with 7” up 7” down.
1979 dana 60 front narrowed to about 66.75”
Wheel offset will either be -.5” or + .7” That gives me either track width of 67.75 or 65.35
35” tires for now, maybe up to 42” some day for the trails. I may highline, haven’t figured out if I need to do that yet.

I do not want my jeep sky high. I am trying to build my jeep at full stuff. The best I can seem to do with a 35” tire is to have a frame height of about 17” at full stuff. Assuming axle centerline of about 17.5” with a 35. I am running into major clearance issues with my power steering pump and driver side exhaust. I can go with a different pump and get it up and out of the way. Exhaust will have to totally be redone. I’m just wondering if it is all worth it to get the rig this low. This would give me a 24” frame height with 7 up and 7 down. I’ll also have to chop the front frame section for my steering and panhard bar, but I planned on doing that anyways. I havnt even thought about clearance of the radiator with the relocation of the power steering box. Then there is also the driveshaft. Ugghhh too much to think about.

It seems like a heck of a lot of work just to keep the jeep a few inches lower. But even with it all 24” frame doesn’t seem very low with only 35” tires. How does that compare to others. To put it is perspective my build would be similar to a rig with 4” up, 42 tires, and frame height of 24.5”. Anyone know of a specific build thread to look at or have any thoughts? I already spend a shit ton of time on pirate so don’t tell me to search.

Moving the power steering and exhaust will get me about 3” it looks like. This also allows about 5 ½” of separation for the frame end links.

All this work and I haven't even messed with the rear yet to see if my geometry will get my uppers into my tub... I'll hopefully be pulling the rear axle next week to start looking at this.

[tbuff02]

for comparison, my TJ on 35's has about 17-18" at the belly at ride height. i have a teraflex bellyup skid. i would guess i have about 3-4" up travel in the front. well, i guess i should say had. i just threw some highline fenders on it, and now i will be limited more by collisions among linkage/engine to axle interference than tires in the fenders. i would like to get 5" or 6" up if i can, but i will not be lifting it anymore.

[NitzPixs]

Originally Posted by kmkommes

I don’t have a whole lot of tech to add today. Just a quick update, I'll add pictures tonight.

I’m looking for thoughts on ride/frame height.

The current plan is/was to run
14” ORI with 7” up 7” down.
1979 dana 60 front narrowed to about 66.75”
Wheel offset will either be -.5” or + .7” That gives me either track width of 67.75 or 65.35
35” tires for now, maybe up to 42” some day for the trails. I may highline, haven’t figured out if I need to do that yet.

I do not want my jeep sky high. I am trying to build my jeep at full stuff. The best I can seem to do with a 35” tire is to have a frame height of about 17” at full stuff. Assuming axle centerline of about 17.5” with a 35. I am running into major clearance issues with my power steering pump and driver side exhaust. I can go with a different pump and get it up and out of the way. Exhaust will have to totally be redone. I’m just wondering if it is all worth it to get the rig this low. This would give me a 24” frame height with 7 up and 7 down. I’ll also have to chop the front frame section for my steering and panhard bar, but I planned on doing that anyways. I havnt even thought about clearance of the radiator with the relocation of the power steering box. Then there is also the driveshaft. Ugghhh too much to think about.

It seems like a heck of a lot of work just to keep the jeep a few inches lower. But even with it all 24” frame doesn’t seem very low with only 35” tires. How does that compare to others. To put it is perspective my build would be similar to a rig with 4” up, 42 tires, and frame height of 24.5”. Anyone know of a specific build thread to look at or have any thoughts? I already spend a shit ton of time on pirate so don’t tell me to search.

Moving the power steering and exhaust will get me about 3” it looks like. This also allows about 5 ½” of separation for the frame end links.

All this work and I haven't even messed with the rear yet to see if my geometry will get my uppers into my tub... I'll hopefully be pulling the rear axle next week to start looking at this.

I run the 14" ORI's on mine with only 4" of up travel. Just like you stated above with 42's, it works awesome. Build at full bump like you say you are and be a little flexiable on the up travel setting (if needed. I had too). During my build the biggest problem was tire to shock body clearance when you flex out the axles. So make sure to check and double that. As that is what caused me to have to move things around more than once. I also had to change my wheel backspacing due to the rear tires still wanting to rub the shocks at full flex. I just ran out of room and could not inboard the rear shocks anymore than what I had already done. Here is a link to my build thread if it helps you any.... http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=119231

Good luck and keep us updated on your progress....

[AlxJ64]

Originally Posted by kmkommes

I don’t have a whole lot of tech to add today. Just a quick update, I'll add pictures tonight.

I’m looking for thoughts on ride/frame height.

The current plan is/was to run
14” ORI with 7” up 7” down.
1979 dana 60 front narrowed to about 66.75”
Wheel offset will either be -.5” or + .7” That gives me either track width of 67.75 or 65.35
35” tires for now, maybe up to 42” some day for the trails. I may highline, haven’t figured out if I need to do that yet.

I do not want my jeep sky high. I am trying to build my jeep at full stuff. The best I can seem to do with a 35” tire is to have a frame height of about 17” at full stuff. Assuming axle centerline of about 17.5” with a 35. I am running into major clearance issues with my power steering pump and driver side exhaust. I can go with a different pump and get it up and out of the way. Exhaust will have to totally be redone. I’m just wondering if it is all worth it to get the rig this low. This would give me a 24” frame height with 7 up and 7 down. I’ll also have to chop the front frame section for my steering and panhard bar, but I planned on doing that anyways. I havnt even thought about clearance of the radiator with the relocation of the power steering box. Then there is also the driveshaft. Ugghhh too much to think about.

It seems like a heck of a lot of work just to keep the jeep a few inches lower. But even with it all 24” frame doesn’t seem very low with only 35” tires. How does that compare to others. To put it is perspective my build would be similar to a rig with 4” up, 42 tires, and frame height of 24.5”. Anyone know of a specific build thread to look at or have any thoughts? I already spend a shit ton of time on pirate so don’t tell me to search.

Moving the power steering and exhaust will get me about 3” it looks like. This also allows about 5 ½” of separation for the frame end links.

All this work and I haven't even messed with the rear yet to see if my geometry will get my uppers into my tub... I'll hopefully be pulling the rear axle next week to start looking at this.

I built one for a friend a little while back. I think I need to post a build thread for it on Pirate since I reference the thread on JU a good bit for questions like this. I don't know if it will be a ton of help but it might help some. The rig is on 42" SXIIs with about 5" of up travel. '78 Ford 60 front, 14B rear, 14" C/Os, and still running hydro assist with a 3 link up front. We reused the full traction setup in the rear but raised the upper mounts some. Hopefully it can give you some ideas of how we packaged the front together. The radiator is a summit special that we cut, rotated, and TIG'ed the inlets to better fit where we wanted to route the hoses.

FWIW the owner drove it on the street a good bit last summer. Its currently being kept by a friend of his and he drives it around almost daily.

http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=510398

[kmkommes]

A couple pics. Going to take a week or two off do to the holidays.
I blasted my front and through some epoxy primer on it.
I'm thinking of going with the ballistic fab dana 60 truss. I want something to weld my upper link to. I dont feel too comfortable welding it right to the pumpkin.

I have no idea where the upper link should be placed and how much triangulation it should or shouldnt have, time to research.

In the last pic you can see how the Upper Link is going to interfere with the exhaust manifold. I decided to build the suspension and worry about the exhaust and power steering and crap like that later on. Also note, the exhaust is just loose and hanging so I could get my upper link up in place.

I do not have much experience, but this epoxy appears to be pretty nice stuff. I dont think I'll bother painting over it. It has a glossy finish and is apparently somewhat UV stable. Southern Polyurethanes Epoxy Primer.

[AZSahara]

Kris, same problem I had with the LS3 Camaro manifolds. When we swapped in the Teraflex LCG long arms the manifold interfered with the upper front control arms. Ended up with C6 Corvette manifolds which dump in the middle. The Camaro manifolds would have worked perfect with the old RE long arms.

[kmkommes]

I think I have a set of the C6 also, which I might use. They dump directly into the Advanced Adapter motor mounts though. It's always one thing or another interfering. I might look into hacking up the Camaro SS manifolds and redirecting them inwards.

[AZSahara]

Ended up using MORE bombproof motor mounts for Gen III V8s. Worked just fine for an L92. Tight, but it worked.

[kmkommes]

I need some motivation and inspiration, I didnt get much done over the holidays. I had a tight deadline to get this done because baby #2 was due in July. A misscarraige 2 weeks ago changed that schedule. I'll finally be back in the garage this weekend to hopefully make some progress. I started my front truss and axle end link brackets. I'm hoping to get the frame end link brackets figured out this weekend. I have a swag offroad press brake to help me bend things up. No torch at this time. Swag says it'll bend 5" of 5/8". My 20ton harbor freight press said otherwise and started to bend prettty good. I'm am about 80% sure my frame will be hacked off up front. Not sure where yet. That might just push this build over to hardcore though and I'm not sure if I want that.

Here is a start of my truss. I am going to tie it into the housing also. It'll be plenty strong. It is just a start. Material is 3/8" x 5" for the truss and 1/4" everywhere else.

[kmkommes]

Here is a bad cell phone picture of my progress.... or lack of progress. Weekend update. I built my front frame end brackets and now I can cycle my front up and down. Next i'm going to play with my steering angles and figure out where the steering box needs to be located and where and how I should hack the front of my frame off. A couple weeks ago this project looked pretty simple, now it looks like it might take awhile.

Major components to figure out.

Steering Box - the box must be raised and rotated to allow sufficient uptravel, can not interfere with radiator, steering shaft must clear power steering pump pulley. I do have a astro box and might play around with a forward facing box.

Power Steering Pump - must be moved up and outbaord, must allow enough room for steering shaft to get to steering box.

Steering, Other - figure out tierod and drag link placment, above or below high steer arms and alsotie road ends or heims

Radiator - 22x19, make sure it clears tierod,draglink, and steering box at full bump, buy a new one ?

Exhaust - must be moved to clear 3rd link. Camaro manifolds dump right into 3rd link, Corvette manifolds probably also do, best bet would be to find some that hug the block and dump right behind the motor mounts and point down.

Motor Mounts - depending on frame cut off and exhuast, i might need to fab new ones.

Frame - must be raised to clear draglink and panhard bar

Panhard Bar - need one, placement will be determined after steering and frame are figured out.

Front Driveshaft - make sure it clears exhuast, links, and link brackets, plan on running a sinlge shaft but I could run a two piece and build a pillow block off the pto cover on the transmission. wait until panhard bar is done before figuring this out

Thats all I can think of for now. That's just the front, I should probably figure out with the struts go also....

[tbuff02]

have you seen sanderson headers? i don't think they are like any stock header. they are short and hug the block. maybe they will work for you?

here is a link to sanderson directly:

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sand...er-Header.html

However, from what I can tell, Novak uses Sanderson as their supplier as their number is the same (CCLS1) and they are cheaper.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/h...v8_headers.htm

Hope this helps.

[CTDJeeperman]

It sounds like the exhaust manifolds you need are the same ones I'm running, Novak (aka Sanderson) Here's a pic....



Hope that helps.

[kmkommes]

CTDJeeperman

I saw you used those earlier and I have been considering them. Until I started the suspension swap my camaro manifolds worked great, they were super cheap and leak free. I could not justify the cost of headers when I believed the camaro manifolds flowed just fine and headers can sometimes be troublesome. It looks like I may have to go this route though. I'll measure it up tonight.

Do you have a nice picture of the passenger side also?

[CTDJeeperman]

This is the best shot I've got of the pass side.

[kmkommes]

Got 3 links of the front figured out and my brackets made. No brackets were bought yet, everything made right here in Neenah WI Next weekend is panhard bar and steering.

I am still stuck on exhaust, it looks like I am buying some headers. I was about to pull the trigger on the sanderson CC1LS1 but then I realized they have a 1.5" primary tubes... I measured ths exhaust ports on the LY6 to be 1.625". That seams like a silly spot for a restriction having the outside diameter of your exhaust smaller than your actual head port. I still might go with sanderson. We'll see if they have a larger primary tube available or go with some block hugger meant for this particular engine and then just build new motor mounts around them. I have not found a manifold that will not interfere with my 3rd link on the driver side.

I'm going to order a new oil pan as soon as Dookey gets me a part number

Front driveshaft is ready to be ordered. 1350 at pinion yoke and 1350 CV at tcase. I want to get this in place before I burn in my link brackets just to make sure everything clears. Im going to rotate my C's and point the pinion up at the tacse. Pinion angle will be about 9 degrees up and max angle the CV will ever see will be about 20.

Not sure which heims or joints to get for my panhard, drag link, and tierod. Started to look at the EVO stuff. Any recomendations are welcome.

[CTDJeeperman]

Can you post some pics of your MAF and the MAF sensor end of the harness. I can't find the MAF I need at any of the yards or dealerships.

Here's my MAF on the harness side...



And here's what everyone says is an LY6 MAF



Any ideas?

[kmkommes]

Those connectors look correct. My MAF is from a Chevy Express VAN. I would not get this one... unless you want to buy it from me. I would find one from another engine like a LS3. The MAF is one of the few items different on a VAN LY6. I think it measures a little smaller. I know my MAF table is different in my PCM than a silverado and I'm sure different than a LS3 also.

GM Part number 15926193

Which Tune did you go with? I would just make sure your tuner knows the vehicle that you got your MAF out of. If you purchased your engine straight from GM. I would go to the parts counter and see what MAF they recomend.

[kmkommes]

Since I loaded a boring MAF picture I'll load some more of the suspension to keep people interested. Brackets are bent with SWAG Offroad Press Brake. Brackets have not been welded yet and need a little adjustment and gussets. Flame away.

[CTDJeeperman]

Thanks for the info on the MAFs. After looking at it a while longer I decided to clip the excess plastic away from the harness plug until it would fit into what I have. It actually worked. Now I just need to figure out what the MAF I have came from to get the tune right. Now I'm running a NOVAK tune that came with the harness and ecm but I think I'm going to send my ecm off to Wayne Hartwig.

[enigma2y0u]

Interested to see how your trackbar turns out, we are at the same point in builds. I am shooting for 17" at full stuff too, but with 37s, I don't see it working, but I am trying.

[CTDJeeperman]

Where did you mount your oil pressure sender? Did you use this thing down by the oil filter?

http://www.nookandtranny.com/mm5/mer...ry_Code=OILING

Thanks

[Phat95YJ]

Nice!

[waynehartwig]

Originally Posted by CTDJeeperman

Where did you mount your oil pressure sender? Did you use this thing down by the oil filter?

http://www.nookandtranny.com/mm5/mer...ry_Code=OILING

Thanks

Yes. But I made my own instead of paying ~$30 for one. The stock part is already partially drilled. Finish drilling and tap it yourself.

LY6 PCM's must see engine oil pressure and water temp, so you do need extra sending units for your dash gauges.

[kmkommes]

Copy and Paste from my post #3041 in the 5.3 Thread

Originally Posted by cj7ole

Does my rounded style of oil block off plate have enough meat to drill and tap for 1/8" NPT or do I need to find one with the boss?

I have seen it done

http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?p=13209406


but I went a different route I came up with. I was being cheap and didnt want to purchase anything. I drilled and tapped the valley cover boss where the oem sensor is, make sure to drill low enough so oem sensor can still be used. I used a 45 to position it. I dont have my jeep here to measure but I had inches of clearance before firewall and mod only took an hour or two but it was free. More pics in my photobucket...

[Necromancer_tat]

Subscribing to see how this turns out!