Project Piss Off My Neighbors and Set My Condo on Fire

[timido]

Get some gasket eliminator http://m.grainger.com/mobile/details/?R=2LPP2 that stuff its great for sealing surfaces. Its a little more money but that stuff works

[gtxracer]

Originally Posted by timido

Get some gasket eliminator http://m.grainger.com/mobile/details/?R=2LPP2 that stuff its great for sealing surfaces. Its a little more money but that stuff works

yeah that's some change! Thanks for the link though, I might pick some up if I can find it locally. The Grainger here just closed.

[EricsGreen98Tj]

You do have all the grounds and other wires hooked up right?

[gtxracer]

Didn't mess with any of 'em, so yes they should be fine. I can double check them but the bellhousing and CPS went out to Novak this morning.

[EricsGreen98Tj]

Grounds, fuses and relays are always the first things I check when I have an "electrical problem". Novak should be able to get you back on the road.

[SLOWPOKE693]

You didn't check for spark/injector pulse before sending out the crank sensor and bellhousing, or did I read those posts wrong?!?!?!


Even if the crank sensor is in the total wrong location (assuming its correctly spaced from the flywheel trigger) you would have spark, injector pulse and at least a backfire or pop. I suspect you may have another issue somewere...


USE PERMATEX "THE RIGHT STUFF" on your case and it won't ever leak again...... RTV is fawkin garbage!!!!!!!

[Treeclimber]

Originally Posted by gtxracer

I tried adjusting it. It's almost touching the flywheel and you can see everything in these pics, including the indent in the flywheel where the sensor reads-




And how I had it clamped in place to test it. Still not firing

Before I switched motors, I ran a 4.0 HO in my YJ, with a TH400. Since the Jeep engine needed the CPS & the TH400 didn't have access, I was forced to do essentially the exact same thing you are doing here. I think I kept my templets, after I went to my V8 (and no longer needed the CPS). You can borrow (have) them, if you'd like. No value to me. (I need to double check the garage, to make sure they didn't get chucked first)

There is also a kit (either Novak or Advance Adapters) which moves the CPS to the front crank pulley.

And there's a chance, it's simply a bad sender.

Good luck.

Interesting build thread.

Tony

[gtxracer]

Originally Posted by EricsGreen98Tj

Grounds, fuses and relays are always the first things I check when I have an "electrical problem". Novak should be able to get you back on the road.

I swapped relays for the ASD, horn, and the other one (can't remember it right now). Fuses look to be good. The previous owner really jacked up the wiring with the alarm install. I've removed most of it but it's hard to tell what he did and I'd rather wait to rip it all out to run a v8. As long as it runs reliably I'm fine with it.

Originally Posted by SLOWPOKE693

You didn't check for spark/injector pulse before sending out the crank sensor and bellhousing, or did I read those posts wrong?!?!?!


Even if the crank sensor is in the total wrong location (assuming its correctly spaced from the flywheel trigger) you would have spark, injector pulse and at least a backfire or pop. I suspect you may have another issue somewere...


USE PERMATEX "THE RIGHT STUFF" on your case and it won't ever leak again...... RTV is fawkin garbage!!!!!!!

I checked, no spark from what I could tell. After researching the CPS, it controls everything and unless it is aligned properly it won't send spark. Here's a couple threads in case anyone is interested:

/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/260612-cutting-hole-bellhousing-cps-4-0-a.html
http://www.jeeptech.com/convtrans/sm420yj/
/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/354802-crank-position-sensor-cps.html
/forum/jeep-non-hardcore/783310-tuesday-crankshaft-position-sensor-cps-question.html
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/9...s-good-905398/

I got a little pop out of it when I poured starting fluid down the throttle body. Everyone I have asked and explained my situation to has told me it's the CPS. I'm all ears if you have something else you would suggest. Oh and picked up some Right Stuff.

Originally Posted by Treeclimber

Before I switched motors, I ran a 4.0 HO in my YJ, with a TH400. Since the Jeep engine needed the CPS & the TH400 didn't have access, I was forced to do essentially the exact same thing you are doing here. I think I kept my templets, after I went to my V8 (and no longer needed the CPS). You can borrow (have) them, if you'd like. No value to me. (I need to double check the garage, to make sure they didn't get chucked first)

There is also a kit (either Novak or Advance Adapters) which moves the CPS to the front crank pulley.

And there's a chance, it's simply a bad sender.

Good luck.

Interesting build thread.

Tony

Thanks. AA used to sell the CPS relocation kit but they told me their supplier had some quality control issues. They now only sell the bellhousings ($370) that have a CPS mount built in. Hesco makes the only other CPS relocation kit ($320+).

I might take you up on those templates if Novak can't machine my bellhousing. Or I might have to find a fresh bellhousing to start with. I'll know more Tuesday when I call them. By sender do you mean CPS? I've tried two and tested both with an ohm meter so they should be good.

[EricsGreen98Tj]

Hey man "The Right Stuff" IS the shit! I've used it on my diffs, pinion seals and Np231 and its yet to let me down. Well worth the extra $ for a step of from RVT IMO.

[alaska99tj]

my thread will be called project divorce and pay child support if im not careful!! haha

[PacificNWestJeeper]

Originally Posted by alaska99tj

my thread will be called project divorce and pay child support if im not careful!! haha

Same Boat here.. That's fricken funny!!!

Keep up the build, looking AWESOME!!!

[lethe]

i was wondering what was going on with your build. i hadn't seen any updates over on rcca for a while.

[Treeclimber]

Originally Posted by gtxracer

IThanks. AA used to sell the CPS relocation kit but they told me their supplier had some quality control issues. They now only sell the bellhousings ($370) that have a CPS mount built in. Hesco makes the only other CPS relocation kit ($320+).

I might take you up on those templates if Novak can't machine my bellhousing. Or I might have to find a fresh bellhousing to start with. I'll know more Tuesday when I call them. By sender do you mean CPS? I've tried two and tested both with an ohm meter so they should be good.

I looked in the garage where I keep old crap, and I cannot find the final version adapter/templet. I did find my first draft attempt (which I did use for startup). I also found the CPS that worked with it. If either or both are of any benefit, you are welcome to them. These were used to run a 92 HO 4.0L, in a YJ, with a AMC TH400 behind it. I used a Chrysler flexplate, and a TH350 torque convertor. Everything bolted up fine, but I did have to machine out a few holes in the flexplate.

Edit: What flywheel do you have?

[gtxracer]

Originally Posted by EricsGreen98Tj

Hey man "The Right Stuff" IS the shit! I've used it on my diffs, pinion seals and Np231 and its yet to let me down. Well worth the extra $ for a step of from RVT IMO.

After using it a few times I can see the difference and won't be using anything else

Originally Posted by alaska99tj

my thread will be called project divorce and pay child support if im not careful!! haha

Originally Posted by PacificNWestJeeper

Same Boat here.. That's fricken funny!!!

Keep up the build, looking AWESOME!!!

Thanks, almost there.

Originally Posted by lethe

i was wondering what was going on with your build. i hadn't seen any updates over on rcca for a while.

I sometimes forget to update rcca but I'll post some pics over there afterwards.

Originally Posted by Treeclimber

I looked in the garage where I keep old crap, and I cannot find the final version adapter/templet. I did find my first draft attempt (which I did use for startup). I also found the CPS that worked with it. If either or both are of any benefit, you are welcome to them. These were used to run a 92 HO 4.0L, in a YJ, with a AMC TH400 behind it. I used a Chrysler flexplate, and a TH350 torque convertor. Everything bolted up fine, but I did have to machine out a few holes in the flexplate.

Edit: What flywheel do you have?

It's the same flywheel I was running with the AX-15. I got the bellhousing back from Novak today and it looks good. Installed it and the trans but the tcase is still sitting on my workbench. It has to dry before I can refill it with gear oil and then I can see if the 4.0 will start. *crosses fingers*



Cleaning and draining the D300, new rear output seal and the Right Stuff about to go on


My fantastic girlfriend bought me a bunch of posters and I decided I need more tool storage. Getting the garage organized finally gave me room for a rolling workbench. This is from Home Depot and is a Husky brand but it seems to be great quality. I've bought Craftsman in the past but they've gone downhill lately and Husky hasn't let me down. I've had their pro series tools for about 2 years now without any broken pieces.


And finally I got my rear axle side shock mounts tacked in place. I am not sure if I am going to like the design so they've only got large tacks for now. Here's the design again, all bolted up-

[Optiskate]

I'm still waiting for the condo fire pics...

[gtxracer]

Originally Posted by Optiskate

I'm still waiting for the condo fire pics...

Slaved all day in the shop - have the next two days off as well so the jeep will get almost all my attention. I got the twin sticks mounted and they shift well so far but I'll have to try it with the vehicle running to really know. I really dig the twin stick setup though

Sealed up the D300 best I could without tearing it down, only some minor small leaks.

Realized the driveshaft needs to be massaged to allow any kind of droop easy fix for tomorrow though.

Designed and drew up the extensions for the half corners to make them full corners. I also drew up the mount for the carrier bearing and will be getting both cut out of 3/16" by my buddy with a plasma CNC. Thanks Wes


Best part - I went through hundreds of feet of wire and grounds - found one loose ground, tightened it up. No start. Can't hear the fuel pump, still trying to remember how to jump the fuel pump relay. Battery might not have enough charge, however, I just read this from one of the threads I posted earlier:

Originally Posted by Tall Grille

After swapping in the NP-435 we could not get the Jeep to turnover from the Key, We jumped the solinoid and it fired, jumped the relay and it fired, replaced the relay and nothing, tried a new relay and nothing, Finaly we tracked it down to be the ground wire for the starter relay was mounted to the original tranny, We had just left the wiring harness hanging, we jumped the ground to the frame and it fired right up. cost us at least three nights in the garage before a friend who knows about wiring showed up.

So I spent another hour searching for a loose ground hanging underneath the TJ. Nothing I can see, although there are a few loose plugs and I'm not quite sure where they go.

Something to note: the clown that installed the alarm system in this rig nearly burnt it to the ground. There's a couple wires that are melted but I knew this after I pulled the dash apart and hastily fixed his mess. There are a couple crucial wires that needed to be hooked up to the remaining alarm harness for it to run. I'll need to check those tomorrow. I'll try to take pics and note them for anyone else with a jacked up Clifford alarm install.

CPS issue isn't suspect then. Before anyone says it - yes, I probably could have tried to troubleshoot this without sending the bellhousing to Novak but I'd rather have it done to know it's good to go. Now I'm tracking down the ground that's possibly missing and how to jump the fuel relay.

Cliff notes - how do I jump the fuel pump relay and does anyone have a pic of the ground on an ax15?

edit: I may have found the culprit but this may just be a sensor, probably back up light sensor edit2: yes it is, back up sensor (http://www.scribd.com/doc/7057536/Je...l-Transmission). Stu Olson has a neat little write up on this sensor and it's also considered a safety switch (http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/aw4/ax15removal.htm).

[gtxracer]

Whew, time for an update.


First, the Jeep runs. It still doesn't start from the key but it runs. I have to jump the starter relay but at least I know it's firing and idles.

This is the mess from under the dash and I already pulled out about 100ft of wire before this:



Pulled out all of it and said goodbye. This is without the two gigantic "brain boxes" that were shoved under the dash too:



In the lower left corner you'll see three little fuse boxes. Yeah, those were shoved deep under the 4.0 and were just a GROUND. *facepalm* notice the one on the right!


And this is what under the dash is supposed to look like after I repaired it:

[gtxracer]

This brings us to today's fab and what-not-

carrier bearing mount, tacked together:



welded the nut completely on the other side, I didn't want it coming loose


Doesn't seem like much, but that little piece saved me hours of work and it only took me 30 minutes to draw up!

Sorry for the crappy picture, lighting was terrible. These are the corner extensions. I will also have a lot more room for uptravel and future tire size plus it will accommodate the factory flare until I bend up some new ones-



Tomorrow will be more of the same, hope to finish most of this. I need to pull the top cover off the np435, I think I misaligned the shift forks somehow when I put it on. I have the alignment guide picture somewhere and I'll post it when I find it again. Oh, and it felt great to have the 4.0 fire up and the twin sticks worked pretty good!

[gtxracer]

It runs and drives, drove it around the neighborhood in 4lo. Couple things-

destroyed one of the cables on the D300 from the leverage of the twin sticks
definitely going to flat tow it for now, it's LOUD
no reverse, shift fork must not be lined up, easy fix
clutch safety switch bypassed with a closed circuit (some say a fuse is a fix)
starter works intermittently because of above
corners are nearly done, came out well and will use stock flares for now
steering hits the passenger side spring mount, need to trim it
front locker seems to be engaged permanently, like a spool
need to final weld the shock mounts
finish front 2 piece driveshaft
tidy up the welds, flap disc any remaining edges and paint them

Sorry for my lack of pics and tech, I'll add more later. I spent most of the time in the shop from the past three days fixing little issues, tracking down wires, and finally driving around the block.

Carrier bearing mount finished, ready to put in place. The plan for this came together well, the opening I drew happens to be in just the right spot for the bolt to pass through


stubby short shaft of the 2 piece driveshaft


corners, my fantastic girlfriend drilled the holes, what a sweetheart!


The clutch safety bypass, took out the connector and made the circuit complete. Starter works most of the time, feels like the computer or solenoid is fighting the wiring for control over the starter.



I'll be back Friday and will be kicking ass all weekend to get the TJ and Silverado ready for the trip next Tuesday.

[q66]

Good deal on getting it running.

[Simpler=Better]

Those welds are gahgeous!

[gtxracer]

Originally Posted by q66

Good deal on getting it running.

Originally Posted by Simpler=Better

Those welds are gahgeous!

Thank you


Final push is this weekend, wheelin on tuesday - thursday. New to-do list:


paint armor, frame, etc
mount rear flares and armor
mount tailgate and spare
make tunnel cover and paint it
setup TJ for flat tow
fab flat tow mounts for TJ
finish weld the rear shock mounts and paint
add studs for brake lines
check fluids
check brakes and clutch for leaks
run through all bolts, add locktite or torque
cut skid plate and mount it, paint
finish weld rear driveshaft
finish weld front shorty shaft
fab and weld front slip shaft
mount and weld carrier bracket and paint


I also have to change out the catalytic converters on my silverado...that'll be fun.

[barnumb]

Nice jeep, looks like it should be a blast when it's done. I'm trying to get my long arm project done so we can go on vacation in two weeks.

[gtxracer]

Originally Posted by barnumb

Nice jeep, looks like it should be a blast when it's done. I'm trying to get my long arm project done so we can go on vacation in two weeks.

Thank you! Just checked out your build and realized I looked at it the other day.

Originally Posted by gtxracer

paint armor, frame, etc
mount rear flares and armor
mount tailgate and spare
make tunnel cover and paint it
setup TJ for flat tow
fab flat tow mounts for TJ
finish weld the rear shock mounts and paint
add studs for brake lines
check fluids
check brakes and clutch for leaks
run through all bolts, add locktite or torque
cut skid plate and mount it, paint
finish weld rear driveshaft
finish weld front shorty shaft
fab and weld front slip shaft
mount and weld carrier bracket and paint


I also have to change out the catalytic converters on my silverado...

Stuff in blue is complete. The rest is cake, really. I might hold off on the tunnel cover since I want to cut out more of it and I can keep an eye on the front driveline.

Finished pics to come tomorrow or tuesday after all the work is complete.

[barnumb]

I like the fact you built most of the stuff yourself and still have a Jeep.
The tube buggies are kool but not in the winter.
You are definitely getting the welding skills honed on this project!
Way to go!!