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Old 10-28-2011, 12:28 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Project Piss Off My Neighbors and Set My Condo on Fire

Let's hope I only accomplish that first goal

I recently moved into a condo with 2 car garage, 220v plug, and a decent amount of space. It's next to a train station, so noise really isn't an issue with my neighbors for the most part but they don't like our parties. That's too bad cuz our halloween party is gonna be tits!

This project is a continuation of my first "build", here and planning the suspension here.

I've been collecting parts, planning, drawing, calculation, researching and measuring for months. This is my 2nd build and this time I'm doing it right. A lot of the trails here are restricted, meaning 37" tires max and a width of 80" or less from outside tire to outside tire. So, this build will stay with 1/2 ton axles but I have some balljoint 60 inner Cs that will be used some day.

Basic overview of the build:

Polished turd
non cad hp30
factory 4.10s
cryo'ed gears and carrier
RCV shafts
homemade truss
lockright (got it for cheap)
spicer balljoints
crane cover

8.8 rear
factory 4.10s
ECGS housing with their brackets (beefy)
disc brakes w/e-brake
crane cover
stock shafts and carrier
Aussie
crane cover
homemade bridge and link mounts

Center of gravity (bottom of bellhousing, stock ax15) 17.5"

3 link front (actual numbers)
28.75" lowers from Heretic fab
unknown length uppers
JJs and Rusty's Offroad forged bushing joints (they were free)
8.5-9.0" separation at axle, might change this for better clearance
up to 8.5" separation at frame
driver's side upper link
Poly high clearance mounts
homemade upper mounts
2-3" stretch

4 link rear (actuals)
~31.5" lowers from Heretic fab
unknown length uppers
JJs and Rusty's joints again
unknown separation at axle, shooting for 8.0"
6.5" max separation at frame
triangulated uppers
4-5" stretch

Uppers will be slightly longer than lowers, I need to update my 3link and 4link calculators then I'll post them. 100" wheelbase hopefully.

Rubber will be what I'm running now, 35 Krawlers on 15x10 kingspeed beadlocks with aluminum rings. A little wide, but I like them.

Drivetrain will be swapped at the same time, going from ax15/np231 to np435/dana 300. No 4:1 at this time but the 6.69:1 first gear will double my crawl ratio right now. I'm using a '78/'79 np435 hybrid built from two trans into one good one. AA adapter kit, and a drilled and tapped t4/sr4 bellhousing that was SUPPOSED to be a t176 but whatever. 4cyl CJ7 clutch slave cylinder and I'm going to try to use the ax15 pressure plate and throw out bearing with a ford 10" clutch. Novak supplied the pilot bushing. Hopefully I can get this clutch combo to work well with each other.

Here's what I'm starting with, 97 TJ, 4.0/ax15/231 with CAD hp30/8.8, the krawlers and a highline. It worked good but the shovel skidplate held me back and the suspension was worn out pretty well.



I've already started this and have made quite a bit of progress. I'll post more tomorrow, I wanted to get the initial post up since I've been putting it off. Feel free to ask questions, comment, tear my shit apart, whatever.
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Old 10-28-2011, 07:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Sweet! Very curious about the 4.0/435/300. Take good notes. lol. Internal CJ slave? What about crank sensor location on that bellhousing? Overall length? You got me searching now, never heard of this swap. Looks like there's a HD version of the 435 out of 2wd 78/79 f350 with 32 spline/1330 also f600's with a 35 spline/1410. And 205's look to bolt up to HD's as well. My search continues. Carry on.
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Old 10-28-2011, 11:55 AM   #3 (permalink)
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CJ slaves are external still, use a pushrod that has to be extended a bit to work in this application but it's the best setup/cost. CPS cutout is relatively easy, I did that yesterday so I'll post some pics of that. Overall length of bellhousing/np435/adapter/d300 is 2" shorter than my ax15/231 sye setup but this aa adapter is a little longer than the novak kit. There's HD np435s, yes, but I think they're pretty rare. The dodge np435 can be bolted to a dana 300 without an adapter, just need the factory adapter but it's pretty long. 205s can be adapted to any np435 with the adapter and proper factory shaft, I have both sitting in my garage if anyone wants it. I'll start posting the progress now.
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Old 10-28-2011, 11:58 AM   #4 (permalink)
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The build for my workbench is here. I spent about 2 weeks building it for low cost/high strength and it came out well.


Cleaned up the workbench and got started on the np435 teardown. I figured it would be more difficult than the d300 especially since there's two of them. I took a bunch of pics so I can reference them when I put it back together. Here's a couple from the teardown:















Got more done on the two np435s, they're both completely torn down.




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Old 10-28-2011, 11:59 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Doing everything twice sure helped with memorizing how it came apart and how it will go back together.


comparing the main shafts-


reverse idlers


[/QUOTE]


Obviously the one I picked up locally has better guts than the AA converted np435 I picked up. Originally I was just going to swap the case but now I'm swapping just the main shaft into the nicer np435. Its in much better shape, the shift fork pads are there and in good shape, no missing teeth or chips, all the bearings and good and roll freely. The only concern was the bit of water that was in the oil but it looks like it was recent, probably from sitting outside briefly after it was pulled. *crosses fingers*

paper weight


much better on the inside as you can see


This was at the bottom of the original converted trans...yeah, not running this one. Spares only. Fluid looks recent though.


Now that I had everything torn down I can clean up the case and prep it. I found a $40 parts washer on craigslist and put it to use.
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Old 10-28-2011, 12:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Wire wheeled it


Tags from the both trans


Cleaned up the guts



Started shooting primer


Final colors. Grabber green on the crane cover to match the rear, hammered black on the pto cover, semi gloss black on the plugs, and Ford gray on the case.


Built a axle stand out of scrap. I'll be making another for the 8.8 and adding to this one for pinion support and possibly a small support for the long side tube.


Next up was the dana 300. Did I mention it was dirty?
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Old 10-28-2011, 12:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Looks good inside though! Found 1 problem area on a tooth but I think it will be fine.



I finally setup my Hobart Handler 187. I love this machine already, except flux core. Need to find a bottle and argon/co2 mix with some .030 wire.



Here's the BH in my garage, NOT a t176 but I believe a t4


Here's the t176 off google, what is needed for this swap-


But I'm ready to reassemble the good np435:


Organization is key, I have everything labeled in bags and stored in a tote. Keeps it clean but still has it's own place.


I had a piece of scrap tubing with two bends it in that will serve beautifully for a truss for this turd


I have a lot more progress that I'll post a little later.
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Old 10-28-2011, 12:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Old 10-28-2011, 01:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Accomplishing your second goal is a totally acceptable activity for a build completion after party.
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Old 10-28-2011, 01:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Hey, just curious, but what brackets are you using for your 4 link rear? You're going to sit lower than I am, probably by a good 2.5" suspension wise. Are you worried that your lowers will impact your frame during up travel?
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Old 10-28-2011, 08:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Quote:
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Accomplishing your second goal is a totally acceptable activity for a build completion after party.
Thanks guys

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Hey, just curious, but what brackets are you using for your 4 link rear? You're going to sit lower than I am, probably by a good 2.5" suspension wise. Are you worried that your lowers will impact your frame during up travel?
Frame side is poly performance for LCA and I'm fabbing the UCA mounts out of some box. Axle side is stock LCA mounts and a axle bridge/truss that I'll fab after I make my press brake for my 20 ton. From what I've seen under the jeep, the upper arms will hit the tub before the lower arms hit the frame. If it's worth it, I'll notch the tub.

Ordered a Longevity 40D pilot arc plasma cutter this morning, can't wait for it to get here.
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Old 10-28-2011, 08:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The shovel


rubber mount was DONE


I finally finished disassembling the dana 300



The output cover was horrible. So bad that I'll have to paint it because the aluminum was damaged from cleaning


I'm thinking of sending the d300 outputs to cryo and heat treat. What do you guys think?
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Old 10-28-2011, 08:39 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Again, organization


Some pics from the np435 "rebuild"















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Old 10-28-2011, 08:43 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I picked up a shitload of steel for a hundred bucks. Lots of 1/4" plate and 10g/16g plus aluminum and other stuff. I need to get a spool gun for my HH187 I also ordered some Ford shock towers for the rear outboard.




Trans is "rebuilt" for the most part. I need to put on the top cover but will do that at a later date. For now I have another np435 case that's cracked for mockup.
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Old 10-29-2011, 06:02 AM   #15 (permalink)
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would you mind sharing your 4link calculator info?



Im looking into a 3link front/4link rear for my 97 tj shortly. same axles you have (without as much polish on the front turd) and there are numbers for th 4link cacluator that I just dont have. COG being a main one!
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Old 10-29-2011, 07:29 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I just bought a HH187 myself. I'll be following this build. Great work!
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Old 10-29-2011, 10:27 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I just bought a HH187 myself. I'll be following this build. Great work!
Thanks!

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would you mind sharing your 4link calculator info?



Im looking into a 3link front/4link rear for my 97 tj shortly. same axles you have (without as much polish on the front turd) and there are numbers for th 4link cacluator that I just dont have. COG being a main one!
These were my initial calcs when I wasn't home with my jeep and able to measure. I need to input the new values but these are pretty close. COG on here is off, it's from a search I did on the board. I'm pretty sure my COG is around the 24" I have here but initially I used 33" because it was what I found when searching the board. The bottom of my bellhousing was 17.5" with the ax15.

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Old 10-29-2011, 10:36 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I notched the end of the some scrap DOM to fit on the coil bucket of the dana 30


Then I traced the outline of the dana 30 pumpkin using the crane cover as a base


Laying out the basic shape of the notch


Starting to take shape


Finally got it where I want it. Cut 3/4 way through the opposite side of the top of the last 1/2 inch of the tube. Then I hit it with a hammer and punch, forming it to a cap.


I was happy with the fitment so I started making the filler panel


Then cut some 1.25" speed holes
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Old 10-29-2011, 10:37 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Then I put my new dimple dies to work in my 20t hf press. Here's how it came out






Mocked up





And a video of how the dimple is made. You can even see my Jeep in the background.
Using a dimple die on some scrap metal - YouTube
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Old 10-29-2011, 11:19 AM   #20 (permalink)
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looks good
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Old 10-29-2011, 01:20 PM   #21 (permalink)
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looks good
Thanks!

Did some measuring since I had time today. I still need to play with it so it's more accurate.
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Old 10-30-2011, 10:13 AM   #22 (permalink)
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The T-4/5 bellhousing usually has the bosses for the locations of the T-176 flange holes. Usually, they are already cast-in pilot holes there, too. Simply drill and tap to 7/16" and you're good to go! IIRC, they both have the same casting number.
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Old 10-30-2011, 11:24 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Truss looks tits !!
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Old 10-30-2011, 11:59 AM   #24 (permalink)
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The T-4/5 bellhousing usually has the bosses for the locations of the T-176 flange holes. Usually, they are already cast-in pilot holes there, too. Simply drill and tap to 7/16" and you're good to go! IIRC, they both have the same casting number.
Thanks Marty, I actually found that out from a little searching recently. My BH had the two bottom flange holes and I drilled and tapped it. I'll post that update here shortly.

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Truss looks tits !!
Thanks Josh! I like it too but I don't like how my welds came out (pics soon).
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Old 10-30-2011, 12:04 PM   #25 (permalink)
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When I welded the filler plate to the tube, I don't think I got enough penetration but it will work for this application. I couldn't put down beads longer than 2 or 3 inches, the gloves I'm using heat up too much and the "welding gloves" I have are stiff as shit. I'm still getting used to the mig and what it can do so it's all a learning curve but I'm getting much better. Here's some pics, they're not pretty but it's just a filler plate. Thoughts?




Heat from the other side



Speaking of the 30, this thing is filthy and I finally cut off the stabilizer bracket. The factory track bar bracket will probably come off later since I want to move it up and keep it parallel to the steering. Factory frame side track bar bracket will have to me moved/modified as well.


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