06 LJ RUBI build with 6.0L LY6 and NV4500 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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06 LJ RUBI build with 6.0L LY6 and NV4500

Well I finally started my build. Here are the details....

2006 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited with Longarms, Coilovers, Poison Spyder Armor, Gen-Right Cage, 37" MTRs w/Walker Evans Beadlocks, factory t-case and axle tubes with chromoly shafts and 4.88s.

Here's a couple of pics on my maiden wheeling trip with it...







And here is what is replacing the 4.0L and NSG-370...









some parts...



More to come...
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The teardown begins at my friend Zack Airth's Fabrication Shop in Las Vegas. His shop is called Airth Defined and they primarily are a hot-rod fab shop, but can do anything. So if you need some fab work done in the Vegas area you should check them out.

The plan is to get the old motor/tranny out before lunch and get a full test fit before the end of the first day.

Drove into the shop with only 24,4XX miles on the drivetrain. It served me well, but I can't leave anything alone...



No turning back now.



See ya later 4.0L; it will do great in the old Jeep project



Looks big with none of the weight on the tires.



Jason posing for a beauty shot before the test fit



Motor Mounts tacked in and ready for test fit





More on the way...
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Ready for test fit.



This is where it pays to have a tall engine hoist.



Zack and I getting the motor squeezed in.





Almost there.









The motor fit perfect the first try. I used the Novak Weld-in Motor Mounts. I followed their instructions which were pretty easy to use and straightforward. The TJs/LJs have a reference hole inside the frame and the front of the Motor Mount gets welded in 4 1/4" behind that hole. I ended up with less than 1/4" clearance between the back of the heads and the firewall. The side to side positioning was perfect. I ended up with about 1/3" clearance between my new relocated AC compressor and the fenders; and the PS pump and the steering shaft. The fit couldn't have been better. My hats off to Novak. Saved me a lot of time and headache. Well worth the $150 bucks.

Last edited by CTDJeeperman; 01-22-2012 at 08:21 PM.
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
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So in less than 8 hours we got the old motor/tranny pulled out and the new one ready to install and got a good test fit on the first try. The next step was to pull the motor back out and weld in the mounts and get them painted up. You'll notice since I have the bolt-in Fabtech coilover tower mounts I had to modify one of the support tubes. Fabtech originally designed that mount to bolt to the 4.0L motor mount, which didn't really work to well for me. So Zack just cut the tube and welded it to the new motor mounts. Turned out great and should be even stronger (only downside is I can't take it out without cutting it out, but shouldn't be an issue)











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Old 11-28-2011, 10:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Well thanks to Zack, Jason, and Mike we got the old motor/tranny out and the new drivetrain mounted in the Jeep in about a day and a half. Now begins all the tiny little things that will take FOREVER. I got the NV4500 to fit with no body lift. The only floor cuts I needed to make were right at the shifter tower. If you have a flat skid there is no way this giant transmission will fit without a body lift. Even with the motor pushed back as far as possible this engine/tranny combo still pulled the transfer case forward about 3.5". I didn't cut the floor near the transfer case, but we did beat on the floor a little bit with an air hammer to create the tiny bit of clearance we needed.

Here is the motor in its final location.









Transmission mount that Zack modified from an Advance Adapters kit.





Skid plate without the plastic skid part which keeps the bolt heads out of the rocks.

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Old 11-28-2011, 11:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Here's a dyno chart from a stock LY6 with a Mast tune I found on Mast Motorsports website. I imagine an aggressive tune from some of the guys on here like Wayne would be very comparable to this chart.

This is why I chose the Gen IV GM 6.0L LY6. It seemed to give the best bang for the buck with these Gen III/IV GM motors.

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Old 11-29-2011, 06:51 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Wow...It's all all so SHINY!

Seriously...nice Heep, man. I think you're really going to like the power available. I just have the LQ4/4500 and my Jeep feels like it will about pull a goddamn wheelie.


Good luck,
Jake
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Good lookin' build Quinn! I really glad you found a local shop. It looks like you guys are having way too much fun though. I second Jake's comments. Ur gonna like the power! Keep the pics coming. I pick mine up from the paint shop next Tuesday.
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yeah I can't wait to drive it. It's running, I just need to build the dash, wire the gauges, and install the driveshafts. I'll get some more pics and video soon.
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:25 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by CTDJeeperman View Post
Yeah I can't wait to drive it. It's running, I just need to build the dash, wire the gauges, and install the driveshafts. I'll get some more pics and video soon.
damn, installed and running in how many days?
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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It is all very shiny! Very nice though! looking forward to seeing the pic's and video's of it running!
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:33 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Like that dyno read out
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Old 12-01-2011, 09:58 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Forgot to mention that I already sold the 4.0L and NSG370
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:12 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Sweet build.
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Old 12-09-2011, 03:21 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Well I've been busy the last week or two, but I got the exhaust done, and got some parts in for the dash.











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Old 12-09-2011, 10:19 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Who has two thumbs and wants a v8 in his unlimited rubi....

Sick...
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Old 12-15-2011, 11:07 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I haven't made much progress on the dash in the last few days but I did design this and get it cut at a local shop out of 3/8" aluminum. I plan to get this and the similar piece that will hold the tach/speedo, powdercoated in a flat black. They will then bolt onto a flat red dash.

I am trying to decide if I should try to keep factory defrost vents and side A/C vents / speaker mounts and make everything else metal or just rip everything out and start over. If I rip out all the vents I will have to modify my cage. What do you guys think?



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Old 12-16-2011, 06:47 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Those look good I wouldnt rip it all out leave it in and keep adding as you are.But I like a modded factory dash I dont like most all metal/alum jobbers!
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Old 12-22-2011, 10:38 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I'm trying to decide what steering column to run, and have decided I want a quick release wheel. I don't need turn signals on the column. Any idea where to get something like this that will easily attach to the existing TJ/LJ steering shaft?

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/19-inc...k-release.html
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Old 12-23-2011, 04:12 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Checkout Flaming River they might
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Old 12-25-2011, 08:59 AM   #21 (permalink)
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what bellhousing did you use for this swap?
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Old 12-25-2011, 06:10 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I don't have my parts list in front of me. I planned this swap and bought some stuff while in Afghanistan. I'm pretty sure this is the part # I ordered.

http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/pn-712576/
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:18 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Well I finally got some stuff done after being gone for the holidays. I decided to mod the cage I had and weld in full tube A-pillars instead of the stanchion type A-pillar. I also tore out the rest of the dash to get the flat dash finished.



Here's some pics of my plan for the actual dash. Made out of some sweet cardboard. What do you guys think? I know the accessory switches on the passenger side will be a bit tough to reach but I won't be using them near as much as the radio or ignition so I can deal with that. I plan on having the headlights, lockers, CB, and those types of switches on that panel.

For the steering shaft I plan to use a universal column from PSC with a quick disconnect wheel. I'll wire in a turn signal switch to the dash.







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Old 01-22-2012, 08:27 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Did your motor just drop in with the carrage bolts attached to the block?

I am doing the same thing right now and it is an absolute pain in the ass. The bolts don't have enough play in them to fall in the holes. They point out too far and I can't get the engine in.

So then I did it backwards and set the engine down on the plates with the bushings in the mounts already, That is working better, but the bots are hard to get to and line up..

Novak has costed me more time at this point then saved me.
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:38 PM   #25 (permalink)
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yeah that part was a pain. I had the mounts already on the block and used some strong duct tape to hold the bolts and the bushing in place. I had to point them as far down (towards the ground) as I could to get the bolts to slide in. My bolts barely fit, but they went in and then the motor just dropped right into place. I had my friend lowering the engine hoist while I kept pusing the bolts in the right place with a big screwdriver. Hopefully that helps.
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