Scout dana 44 front into CJ? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:35 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Scout dana 44 front into CJ?

Is the differential housing centered enough in a scout 44 to be able to move the spring perches in enough to bolt it under a CJ? I understand people have used this axle swap before, just curious how nice it works? Thanks
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I have a scout 44 in the rear of my YJ, what CJ are you wanting to put this in? CJ5..7?
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Old 01-13-2012, 11:14 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Sorry. I talking about a front axle in a CJ7. The scout and the CJ7 front axle are both passenger drop.
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Old 01-13-2012, 11:29 AM   #4 (permalink)
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you need to outboard the hangers
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Old 01-13-2012, 01:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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On both sides of the frame I suppose. Any problems with that set up failing? I guess this would be a good time to reverse shackle hangers.
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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you need to outboard the hangers
And you need to grind into the case a bit for the spring perch if you are going SOA
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I've got a widetrack Waggy housing, narrowed to Scout width, using Scout shafts in my YJ. (Just getting ready to remove it for a D60) It fits nice, works nice. There may be some slight casting differences between the Waggy & Scout housings, but width wise it's perfect. I'm running the Waggy steering knuckles. If I recall correctly, the Scout knuckles are really long on the steering arms.
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Old 01-14-2012, 06:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the advice. I guess this is still the easiest axle swap in since there aren't really any other "stonger" axles that are already this width?
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:38 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks for the advice. I guess this is still the easiest axle swap in since there aren't really any other "stonger" axles that are already this width?
Your other option it to whack 4 inches off the long side of a Waggy 44 and get one custom inner shaft. There would be no need to outboard your springs with this set up
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:41 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for the advice. I guess this is still the easiest axle swap in since there aren't really any other "stonger" axles that are already this width?
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Your other option it to whack 4 inches off the long side of a Waggy 44 and get one custom inner shaft. There would be no need to outboard your springs with this set up
The narrow track waggy and the scout housing are essentially the same width.
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Old 01-14-2012, 04:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Who does custom axle shafts like that? And what would I be looking to pay out?
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Old 01-14-2012, 05:29 PM   #12 (permalink)
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possibye try to cut the axle shaft to length and have the end machined/resplined??
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Old 01-14-2012, 07:00 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I swapped in a scout 44 front and rear into my CJ7 8 years ago and have loved the added strength and track width. My ride has been more stable in the rocks going SOA with the Scout 44's (on 36's) than I had with my 2.5" lift and and narrow tracks on 33's.

I had to outboard my spring hangers. Used 2 pieces of 3/16" angle iron to sandwich the frame. This created a platform that stuck out from the frame and mount the hangers.

I will say, the tough part of using Scout 44 front in an SOA application is getting the castor right. I wanted between 5.5-7 degrees of castor. Scout 44's are set up with close to 0 degrees from the factory. Grinding and turing the inner C's in not impossible, just time consuming. I also used chevy outer knuckles and spindles and then ford hubs and rotors so I could maintain the 5x5.5 bolt pattern.

You may consider using a Chevy front 44 and cutting down the long side. I cut down a 60 front for my Scrambler and it was not as tough as I thought it was going to be. The chevy 44 front was made for SOA and castor will be very close to what you want without much fuss. Cutting down the long side should put the passenger side spring perch in just about the right spot so grinding a new perch might not be necessary.
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Old 01-14-2012, 07:09 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Not to be a pain in the ass, but would it be possible to post a picture of what you are talking about. In my mind "sandwiching the frame" with the angle iron only makes it 3/16" wider on each side of the frame?
Thanks man.
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:07 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Not to be a pain in the ass, but would it be possible to post a picture of what you are talking about. In my mind "sandwiching the frame" with the angle iron only makes it 3/16" wider on each side of the frame?
Thanks man.
I am too cheap to pay the $20/year on this site to be able to post pictures, so I created a photobucket account and here is a link to a pic I dug up of the rear spring hanger mount for the front axle.

http://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_0374.jpg

You basically use two pieces of angle iron, a 3x3 piece that's about 6" long. This piece goes on the outside of the frame creating a ledge of 3" that sticks out from the frame. The problem with stopping here is it stresses the frame along the outside edge where you weld the angle iron to the frame. The other piece of angle iron is a 3x5 piece mounted to the inside of the frame. The 6" side sticks out underneath the bottom of the frameand directly underneath the 3x3 piece. This sandwiching effect strengthens the way the stresses are absorbed into the frame.

Does this clarify my statement earlier?
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Old 01-15-2012, 01:24 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Ok, I see what you did there. Makes sense. I like the design.
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Old 01-15-2012, 01:59 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks, I stole it from someone else's posts. I also gussetted angle iron with some triangular-shaped pieces at the edges. In seven years of pretty consistent and sometimes hard wheeling, there are no cracks in the frame or failure points from the outboarding. With the shackles in the front, I have managed to bend both front main leaves once. Other than that, I have loved the swap and spring over.
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:39 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I will say, the tough part of using Scout 44 front in an SOA application is getting the castor right. I wanted between 5.5-7 degrees of castor. Scout 44's are set up with close to 0 degrees from the factory. Grinding and turing the inner C's in not impossible, just time consuming. I also used chevy outer knuckles and spindles and then ford hubs and rotors so I could maintain the 5x5.5 bolt pattern.
My CJ5 has scout axles under it. I have no comoplaints as far as performance. The spring hangers are outboarded and huebie is right the castor is tricky. Whoever did mine did not get it right but for a trail rig it works.
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:45 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Scout 44 front sucks. It uses the weak external CJ D30 style hubs and goofy long armed knuckles and 8 bolt spindles. The tubes are thinner than the chev and wagoneer versions. The stubs are basically D30. I ran one in my CJ2a for a couple years and went through multiple sets of locking hubs and stub shafts then finally bent the housing. Wound up switching out to a Chev D44 that I narrowed with the standard Jeep/Ford outter mix to keep the 5 on 5.5

If you are looking at this as an upgrade to a CJ D30 - it really isn't except for a bigger ring gear
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Old 01-17-2012, 08:06 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Check out the canadian classified. There's a sweet custom bumper for a CJ7 with an outboard (for scout 44) shackle reversal built into it. Very nice.
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Old 01-17-2012, 11:03 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Scout 44 front sucks.
This, for the reasons oldjeep mentioned.

Scout 44 rear axles also have smaller diameter, thinner walled tubes than other rear Dana 44 axles.
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Old 01-18-2012, 05:09 AM   #22 (permalink)
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scout 44's are just fine for a nonhardcore rig. I've been running scout axles with lockers for 3 years with only axle shafts breaking and had to upgrade to cromo's. And I run my shit pretty hard with the V8 and 35"X15"X15" mudders.
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Old 01-18-2012, 06:06 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Check out the canadian classified. There's a sweet custom bumper for a CJ7 with an outboard (for scout 44) shackle reversal built into it. Very nice.
plug /forum/canadian-classifieds/1025020-cj7-shackle-reversal-widening-kit-steering-components.html

Thanks. I have wheeled this rig for over 12 years hard (very hard) and use it to plow snow at my place. It's for sale because I made a new frame as I could not weld to the rust any more. I had made 6Deg steel shims for the leafs no other mods to the axle, I would recommend hydrolic assist it solved all issues and a long spline drive shaft. If you want more pics I can attach.

Last edited by ditchpig; 01-18-2012 at 06:14 AM.
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Old 01-18-2012, 06:47 AM   #24 (permalink)
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plug http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1025020

Thanks. I have wheeled this rig for over 12 years hard (very hard) and use it to plow snow at my place. It's for sale because I made a new frame as I could not weld to the rust any more. I had made 6Deg steel shims for the leafs no other mods to the axle, I would recommend hydrolic assist it solved all issues and a long spline drive shaft. If you want more pics I can attach.
I, for one, would love more pictures.
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Old 01-18-2012, 05:10 PM   #25 (permalink)
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scout 44's are just fine for a nonhardcore rig. I've been running scout axles with lockers for 3 years with only axle shafts breaking and had to upgrade to cromo's. And I run my shit pretty hard with the V8 and 35"X15"X15" mudders.
I was breaking the hubs and shafts with a 225 V6 - about 140hp on a good day.
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