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Old 05-13-2012, 04:41 PM   #1 (permalink)
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High-Steer Help

I need help deciding what steering solution should be purchased for a daily driven 2001 Wrangler with a D30 front axle. I just purchased the rig and it currently has an upgraded tie-rod, drag link and Rusty's track bar. I have considered the Teraflex high steer knuckles, however, I imagine there are other effective set-ups available. Being that I haven't owned a TJ in 5 years and my last rig was not daily driven, I am unaware of the solutions available and appreciate the help. Below are photos of the current set-up. Thanks in advance.







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Old 05-13-2012, 05:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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someone please explain to me how that works when the suspension flexes out? the lower heim is already on the edge of the misalignment spacers.

anyhow, since the knuckle is already drilled for that applications that means a stock or stock replacement system is out of the window.

There are several routes to take.

1)replace knuckles and go with a stock replacement (Currie gets high regards)
2)ream the knuckles to accept 1-ton tie rod ends and run an inverted T system (controversy about running inverted T on Jeeps)
3)Reid knuckles. requires switching to standard lock out style hubs
4)WJ knuckle swap

just a few options off the top of my head.
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Old 05-13-2012, 06:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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JESUS, your current setup is a mess.

Either swap to a beefed up inverted Y (Currie) or do a WJ or Reid knuckle swap with a crossover setup. Two best options. If you want cost effective, a new pair of knuckles and Currie steering (and a non-sucky track bar) will do you well. The WJ/Reid setup can be made to work very well but will cost quite a bit more and require some changes.
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Old 05-13-2012, 06:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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JESUS, your current setup is a mess.

Either swap to a beefed up inverted Y (Currie) or do a WJ or Reid knuckle swap with a crossover setup. Two best options. If you want cost effective, a new pair of knuckles and Currie steering (and a non-sucky track bar) will do you well. The WJ/Reid setup can be made to work very well but will cost quite a bit more and require some changes.
since the knuckles were drilled for the bolts, is it possible to run an inverted-Y?
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Old 05-13-2012, 06:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Sure, as long as he sticks to using rod ends. But unless he enjoys sucky steering, it's not a good option.
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Old 05-13-2012, 07:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Sure, as long as he sticks to using rod ends. But unless he enjoys sucky steering, it's not a good option.
so it would have to be a fabbed Y system with heims....gotcha.
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I agree, the current set-up is complete garbage. What the previous owner was thinking is completely beyond me. What do you guys think of the Teraflex knuckles and keeping the current tie rod and drag link? I do like the WJ idea if I can get ahold of the parts at a junk yard. Thanks for the advice.

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Old 05-14-2012, 06:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The Tera knuckles are basically WJ knuckles that will bolt up. You'll still have to fab up the links and will have to come up with a good track bar solution. I'd highly recommend checking out some WJ swaps that have been done right.

Here's an old thread that may help you but will definitely teach you a few things: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/wj...brakes-560997/

Don't miss page 4.
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I agree, the current set-up is complete garbage. What the previous owner was thinking is completely beyond me. What do you guys think of the Teraflex knuckles and keeping the current tie rod and drag link? I do like the WJ idea if I can get ahold of the parts at a junk yard. Thanks for the advice.
The steering that's on your Jeep now looks like either an early version of the Rock Krawler steering, or a home made version of it. One of the guys in my Jeep club runs the RK set up and it works really well for him.
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Old 05-14-2012, 05:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Last set of questions before I decide between either the Currie system or the WJ swap:
  1. Would I need to sell the current tie rod and the current drag link if I did a WJ swap in order to keep it road worthy? Better said, is there anything noticeable wrong with the current TR and DL other than its geometry that is concerning?
  2. What is the different in road manners between a crossover steering set-up and an inverted Y set-up?

Thanks again for the help.
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Old 05-14-2012, 06:17 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Did you notice this?

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Old 05-14-2012, 06:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Did you notice this?

I did, thank you. I attached the image to not only show the current problems (the locking nut) but also to show the track bar relocation.
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Old 05-15-2012, 05:47 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Cool....I saw that and cringed.
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Old 05-15-2012, 06:05 AM   #14 (permalink)
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The Tera knuckles are basically WJ knuckles that will bolt up. You'll still have to fab up the links and will have to come up with a good track bar solution. I'd highly recommend checking out some WJ swaps that have been done right.

Here's an old thread that may help you but will definitely teach you a few things: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/wj...brakes-560997/

Don't miss page 4.
I've done the WJ swap on my YJ and it was pretty easy. You can read all you want to about it and it might help you. So many people have done this, and they all have their own opinions about it. Some say you need this, and others say you don't.

Lets start with the axle and work out. If you go with the WJ swap you'll have to replace the lower ball joints. They are a different taper then you current ones, the top ones are fine. Next you'll have to get 1/4" spacers for the knuckles. The knuckles are a little shallower, and without the spacer would leave you with a 1/4" gap between the knuckle and wheel hub. Your current wheel hubs/bearings will work fine, no need to replace them. You'll have to get new rotors, WJ rotors will have to be drilled to fit since the lug pattern doesn't match. You can also get rotors Ford Explrer Sport Trac rotors, these do not have to be drilled. Are you can get rotors from here, they are already drilled. If you are going to do the swap, try to find calipers from 2002+, the years prior are known to cause warping of the rotors. I used parts from a 2000 since my jeep is not a DD and I wouldn't notice the warping. This is a great set-up on a TJ, it gets you tierod up, and allows you to connect your draglink directly to the knuckle. You can drill the knuckles to use heims, or you can put in inserts to flip it and use rodends.

Last edited by mwstudt; 05-15-2012 at 06:05 AM.
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Old 05-15-2012, 07:21 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I've done the WJ swap on my YJ and it was pretty easy.
Of course it was.....you didn't have to deal with a track bar.



And FYI, doing that swap won't raise the tie rod up unless you place it on the top side of the knuckle....then you have to place the drag link on the top side of the arm.....then you have to build a track bar and the mounts to match.....then......

The link I posted earlier describes the work involved on a TJ (or any linked 30) to get it right. The entire reason for the Vanco brake kit is the WJ swap's difficulty.

OP, if you want to fix your steering then go get some junkyard XJ knuckles, flip the tie rod on top of the driver's side knuckle, and replace the track bar with something better. If you want it to end up well with no worries on your part, you can't do it for cheap. You'll either spend some money and have it done in a couple hours or spend more money and have it done in a couple days to a couple weeks (WJ), all depending on how proficient you are and how correct you want it to be. If you want nice steering for cheap, go pull the tie rod and drag link off the nicest V8 ZJ you can find in the same junkyard and run it....or order up Currie.

It's that simple. You've got two options if you want good steering--inverted Y or crossover. Inverted Y, aka stock, has no real-world disadvantages, provides nice feedback, and has no play. If you go that route, you have two options--ZJ or Currie. That's it. If you want to go crossover, you can go with Reid or WJ knuckles. You'll spend more time and money on that route and the only gain you'll see is the ability to use larger calipers and rotors.

Currie drag link, heat treated chromolly tie rod flipped on the driver's side knuckle, Currie track bar, stock pitman arm--perfect steering.
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:25 AM   #16 (permalink)
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You can drill the knuckles to use heims, or you can put in inserts to flip it and use rodends.
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And FYI, doing that swap won't raise the tie rod up unless you place it on the top side of the knuckle....then you have to place the drag link on the top side of the arm

Exactly what I said! Flip it, OTT, cross-over, whatever you want to call it. Still don't see the need to pay $700 for a kit. If you know what your looking for, you can get the correct WJ stuff for a $150.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:09 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Exactly what I said! Flip it, OTT, cross-over, whatever you want to call it. Still don't see the need to pay $700 for a kit. If you know what your looking for, you can get the correct WJ stuff for a $150.
My bad, missed that.

And you're saying that I can get quality WJ TRE's (not Duralast, MP, or Moog) and build proper links for $150? I have yet to see a WJ setup done well on a dime budget. It can be done to drive down the road, but not to the standard that I'll personally accept.

And I'm pretty sure you've got leaf springs. Setting it up for a coil spring suspension introduces more costs and much more time.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:23 AM   #18 (permalink)
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My bad, missed that.

And you're saying that I can get quality WJ TRE's (not Duralast, MP, or Moog) and build proper links for $150? I have yet to see a WJ setup done well on a dime budget. It can be done to drive down the road, but not to the standard that I'll personally accept.

And I'm pretty sure you've got leaf springs. Setting it up for a coil spring suspension introduces more costs and much more time.
I paid $50 for both knuckles, caliper, and brackets. I got a crappy set of rotor from Ebay for $40 and drilled them the fit. I paid another $40 for the flange spacers. I already had 3/4" heims and tube set-up for my draglink, and used them on the WJ. I bought an offset tie rod kit from Ruff Stuff. It has two 1 ton TRE's, nuts, bungs, and 1-1/2 tube ($125). If you want to flip it, you'll have to get the inserts too, they're $8 each. I've got close to $300 in mine with new pads, and shipping. The only difference is going to be the track bar mount, and Ruff Stuff sells new brackets to weld onto your D30. I went with the offset TRE's to clear my diff cover. Oh, and I paid $30 for new low ball joints.

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Old 05-15-2012, 11:22 AM   #19 (permalink)
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What if I relocated the tie rod back to the bottom of the knuckle and placed the drag link on top? I know it would require the sway bar mount to be relocated but it might prove to be an effective solution.

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Old 05-15-2012, 11:36 AM   #20 (permalink)
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What if I relocated the tie rod back to the bottom of the knuckle and placed the drag link on top? I know it would require the sway bar mount to be relocated but it might prove to be an effective solution.
If you're looking for a quick, easy, temp fix. That would be the way to go! Don't get me wrong, you'll still need to do something about it sooner than later. Your sway bar mounts should still be fine. But the passenger side might hit a little.

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Old 05-15-2012, 01:48 PM   #21 (permalink)
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OP, if you want to fix your steering then go get some junkyard XJ knuckles, flip the tie rod on top of the driver's side knuckle, and replace the track bar with something better...

It's that simple. You've got two options if you want good steering--inverted Y or crossover. Inverted Y, aka stock, has no real-world disadvantages, provides nice feedback, and has no play. If you go that route, you have two options--ZJ or Currie.

Currie drag link, heat treated chromolly tie rod flipped on the driver's side knuckle, Currie track bar, stock pitman arm--perfect steering.

So the best option would be new (well, UN DRILLED) knuckles, flip the tierod on the drivers side knuckle, new track bar and the Currie system? Oh and a STOCK pitman arm?

Where is the best priced Currie system? and what do you guys think of the SAVVY tierod?

http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/product...4&categoryId=7


Since he needs knuckles anyways, why not find a HP30?
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Old 05-15-2012, 02:50 PM   #22 (permalink)
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So the best option would be new (well, UN DRILLED) knuckles, flip the tierod on the drivers side knuckle, new track bar and the Currie system? Oh and a STOCK pitman arm?

Where is the best priced Currie system? and what do you guys think of the SAVVY tierod?

http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/product...4&categoryId=7


Since he needs knuckles anyways, why not find a HP30?
If you can find an HP30 great. Look for one on Craiglist from an XJ. If you're goig this route, make sure you swap your shafts. The HP30 has the smaller u-joints, and you TJ has the larger u-joints. A HP30 is just going to have normal knuckles.

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Old 05-15-2012, 06:56 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I do like the WJ idea if I can get ahold of the parts at a junk yard. Thanks for the advice.
Do a lot of web searching, and I mean a lot!

I've done the WJ conversion and am very happy with it.

After doing your research, come back here and start asking more questions...

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Old 05-15-2012, 06:58 PM   #24 (permalink)
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If you can find an HP30 great. Look for one on Craiglist from an XJ. If you're goig this route, make sure you swap your shafts. The HP30 has the smaller u-joints, and you TJ has the larger u-joints. A HP30 is just going to have normal knuckles.
Not all HPd30 axles have the small U-joints...
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Old 05-15-2012, 07:17 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Not all HPd30 axles have the small U-joints...
I think 96 and newer have the bigger U-joints.
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