KJ Tech: About as non-hardcore as it gets - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

grnd93 · 06-17-2012, 03:58 PM

Did pads and rotors on mu wife's 02 KJ a couple weeks ago (143,000 miles). Everything went fine and seemed normal until the other day when she came home from work I noticed a noise coming from the front end. Sounds like a high-pitched rattle. Braking has no effect on the noise, and vehicle speed doesn't seem to change it either (it does go away at a dead stop). Doesn't pull, or shake at all. Had the wheels rotated and balanced yesterday and the guys said everything looks fine. The noise seems to come and go as well. Usually not showing up until after a few miles of driving.

Could this be a hub bearing going bad? or maybe a CV joint?

grnd93 · 06-18-2012, 01:52 PM

Not even a reply telling me how gay KJ's are? You guys are off your game.

NsTyFoX · 06-18-2012, 02:03 PM

kj's are kinda gay....doesnt help ya much but id figured id add it

grnd93 · 06-18-2012, 02:31 PM

I feel much better now.

I'm pretty convinced its the hub bearing, but looking for other opinions before I drop $100 in parts.

theytookmyname · 06-18-2012, 03:08 PM

Sounds kind of like when one of the wheel bearings went bad on my 4runner.

Made a consistent noise when moving that came and went. Eventually it got worse and became constant. *shrug*

grnd93 · 06-18-2012, 03:33 PM

Sounds pretty much exactly what I've got going on. Hope the wheel doesn't fall off before the weekend.

Trazer75MT · 06-18-2012, 03:43 PM

Check the backing plate and the little metal sliders the pads sit in first. i have bent those before or had them just a little off and they would touch the rotor and make nice noises. I have bent the backing plate a little bit to where it touched also. Just thought i would give you the free things to check first.

grnd93 · 06-23-2012, 06:17 PM

Changed the driver's side hub bearing today. noise seems to be gone. there was also a little metal shield on the LCA right next to the ball joint. it just clips on, so i took it off in case it was rattling. I couldn't really see what purpose it would serve anyway.

grnd93 · 07-01-2012, 07:35 PM

this thing is pissing me off. still singing like a bird, but only does it after 10-15 miles of driving. the only thing really left is the CV joints. The boots are starting to crack anyway, so i might as well change them before they fling grease everywhere. I hope it takes care of it, i should be spending this money on my TJ.

J_Impact · 07-01-2012, 07:49 PM

100% sure it's from the front?

Front driveshaft good and greased?

Have you recently pulled the diff cover?

rednekYJ · 07-01-2012, 08:59 PM

The chicks mountaineer was doing the same thing. I was also leaning toward hub but for a couple hundred I decided to chase it down to be sure. I greased balljoints, TRE's, checked the CV's and went through 2sets of rotors and a set of pads. Finally got fed up and took a crap ton of Hi temp grease and greased the fawk out of both sides of the slides and the back of the brake pads. Noise is gone.

grnd93 · 07-02-2012, 03:06 PM

Slides are well lubed, I have never used anything of the back of brake pads.

Diff cover has never been off, I guess I should check the front u-joints. I keep forgetting its 4wd. Need to get it warm, the jack it up and narrow it down.

rednekYJ · 07-02-2012, 03:19 PM

I never used anything on the backs of any pads until this vehicle. Just throwing it out there......

The bare dry back of the pad plate vibrates against the metal of the caliper. Keeping some brake grease or "anti-squeal" on the back of the pad metal keeps the metal to metal vibrations to a minimum. The action of the pad being pressed against the disk is what causes this, but the noise is transmitted to and amplified by the bare metal to metal contact of the caliper and brake pad back plate. The grease or anti squeal dampen the vibration and keep the bare metal surfaces apart & from making the noise.

grnd93 · 07-02-2012, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rednekYJ

I never used anything on the backs of any pads until this vehicle. Just throwing it out there......

The bare dry back of the pad plate vibrates against the metal of the caliper. Keeping some brake grease or "anti-squeal" on the back of the pad metal keeps the metal to metal vibrations to a minimum. The action of the pad being pressed against the disk is what causes this, but the noise is transmitted to and amplified by the bare metal to metal contact of the caliper and brake pad back plate. The grease or anti squeal dampen the vibration and keep the bare metal surfaces apart & from making the noise.

I'll give it a shot. Honestly it was the first thing that came to mind, but I dismissed it because it was never an issue. Thanks for the tip.

grnd93 · 07-29-2012, 06:54 AM

Pulled the brakes, lubed the slides, smeared the jizz on the back I the pads. Noise was still there. Ordered new cv's and the rf hub. Replaced those yesterday. Still have the noise. Crawled back under it. Shook the drive shaft and I think I found the noise. The bad news is those fucking joints are expensive! $200 apiece, or $500 for the whole shaft!

Free Beer · 07-29-2012, 07:57 AM

Oh shit! $500!?
For $500 I would seriously be thinking wether or not she NEEDS 4wd.
My wife's KJ had a brand new front driveshaft when we bought it used.

grnd93 · 07-29-2012, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Free Beer

Oh shit! $500!?
For $500 I would seriously be thinking wether or not she NEEDS 4wd.
My wife's KJ had a brand new front driveshaft when we bought it used.

No kidding...this things basically got a whole new fronted now and I'm only in it for $300. I'll probably pull the shaft and start looking in junkyards. She uses the 4wd in the winter, helps keep her out of the ditches.

Honestly at this point I'd like to burn the thing to the ground.

kb1jkn · 07-29-2012, 08:26 AM

Perhaps you can take the drive shaft out and carefully pop the covers off the joints and pack them with grease. if the thing isnt vibeing like crazy then it would make me think the joint it dry more than worn out yet....... if the whole thing is pressed together then drill a small hole, use a pencile grease tip and fill to your heats content. a nice shot of rtv in the hole will seal it up. For that money i think its well worth a shot.

grnd93 · 07-29-2012, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kb1jkn

Perhaps you can take the drive shaft out and carefully pop the covers off the joints and pack them with grease. if the thing isnt vibeing like crazy then it would make me think the joint it dry more than worn out yet....... if the whole thing is pressed together then drill a small hole, use a pencile grease tip and fill to your heats content. a nice shot of rtv in the hole will seal it up. For that money i think its well worth a shot.

Might give it a shot...the thing has been in 4wd less times than I have fingers. Sure it's got 145,000 on it but the joints shouldn't be worn out already. And if they do wear that fast they should cost less than 200 fuckin dollars!

MrWillys · 07-29-2012, 11:02 AM

First, pull the driveshaft and see if the noise goes away before spending anymore cash.

Beat95YJ · 07-29-2012, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrWillys

First, pull the driveshaft and see if the noise goes away before spending anymore cash.

Don't use logic here.

I had a similar driveshaft problem in my WJ. Company fleet mechanic didn't believe me and replaced the transmission instead. After he was done The noise was still there and he finally replaced the driveshaft. The funny part was I told him it was a CV to begin with. Thank God it wasn't my money.

Beat95YJ · 07-29-2012, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grnd93

Not even a reply telling me how gay KJ's are? You guys are off your game.

You posted and non-hard-core. We're not allowed to flame you. We'd love to tell you how A KJ is gayer than four dudes fawking, but we're just not allowed to.

grnd93 · 07-29-2012, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beat95YJ

You posted and non-hard-core. We're not allowed to flame you. We'd love to tell you how A KJ is gayer than four dudes fawking, but we're just not allowed to.

That's better

crashnzuk · 07-30-2012, 06:01 PM

Those shafts suck. We have a bunch of Libertys at work. We had the local driveline shop make a shaft with common joints (one end double cardan CV) to see if it would work as a cheaper alternative, but that one had some vibes. It wasn't an issue for us since these things never leave our property, but if it was street driven it would get very old very fast. I would get a factory shaft. Just thought I'd pass on some first hand experience.
Travis..

grnd93 · 07-30-2012, 06:49 PM

Just spent the last hour wrestling the shaft out. The rear CV is definitely shot. Boot is gone and everything. I'm sorta kicking myself for not seeing it sooner, but at least I took care of some of the things on the front end that were eventually going to need attention anyway.

now I gotta find a cost effective fix for this, looking at another $200 minimum probably just to replace to bad CV.

Oh and I noticed grease coming from the LF lower ball joint boot. I musta punctured that when I had it apart Saturday.

Anyone got a match?

06-17-2012, 03:58 PM	#1 (permalink)
grnd93 Rock God Join Date: Jan 2006 Member # 64925 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,036	KJ Tech: About as non-hardcore as it gets Did pads and rotors on mu wife's 02 KJ a couple weeks ago (143,000 miles). Everything went fine and seemed normal until the other day when she came home from work I noticed a noise coming from the front end. Sounds like a high-pitched rattle. Braking has no effect on the noise, and vehicle speed doesn't seem to change it either (it does go away at a dead stop). Doesn't pull, or shake at all. Had the wheels rotated and balanced yesterday and the guys said everything looks fine. The noise seems to come and go as well. Usually not showing up until after a few miles of driving. Could this be a hub bearing going bad? or maybe a CV joint?

06-18-2012, 01:52 PM	#2 (permalink)
grnd93 Rock God Join Date: Jan 2006 Member # 64925 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,036	Not even a reply telling me how gay KJ's are? You guys are off your game. __________________ Originally Posted by void_of_light Somewhere in the Canadian wilderness, the new owners are questioning their decision to buy a forum filled to the brim with assholes.

06-18-2012, 02:03 PM	#3 (permalink)
NsTyFoX Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Member # 141679 Posts: 46	kj's are kinda gay....doesnt help ya much but id figured id add it __________________ 97 Zj orvis-lifted 7" claytons f and r long arm with 36" iroks on shitty axles

06-18-2012, 02:31 PM	#4 (permalink)
grnd93 Rock God Join Date: Jan 2006 Member # 64925 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,036	I feel much better now. I'm pretty convinced its the hub bearing, but looking for other opinions before I drop $100 in parts. __________________ Originally Posted by void_of_light Somewhere in the Canadian wilderness, the new owners are questioning their decision to buy a forum filled to the brim with assholes.

06-18-2012, 03:33 PM	#6 (permalink)
grnd93 Rock God Join Date: Jan 2006 Member # 64925 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,036	Sounds pretty much exactly what I've got going on. Hope the wheel doesn't fall off before the weekend. __________________ Originally Posted by void_of_light Somewhere in the Canadian wilderness, the new owners are questioning their decision to buy a forum filled to the brim with assholes.

06-18-2012, 03:08 PM	#5 (permalink)
theytookmyname Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Member # 145344 Location: Colorado Posts: 85	Sounds kind of like when one of the wheel bearings went bad on my 4runner. Made a consistent noise when moving that came and went. Eventually it got worse and became constant. shrug

06-18-2012, 03:43 PM	#7 (permalink)
Trazer75MT In the Mountains Join Date: Mar 2012 Member # 214628 Location: Lolo MT Posts: 35	Check the backing plate and the little metal sliders the pads sit in first. i have bent those before or had them just a little off and they would touch the rotor and make nice noises. I have bent the backing plate a little bit to where it touched also. Just thought i would give you the free things to check first.

06-23-2012, 06:17 PM	#8 (permalink)
grnd93 Rock God Join Date: Jan 2006 Member # 64925 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,036	Changed the driver's side hub bearing today. noise seems to be gone. there was also a little metal shield on the LCA right next to the ball joint. it just clips on, so i took it off in case it was rattling. I couldn't really see what purpose it would serve anyway.

07-01-2012, 07:35 PM	#9 (permalink)
grnd93 Rock God Join Date: Jan 2006 Member # 64925 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,036	this thing is pissing me off. still singing like a bird, but only does it after 10-15 miles of driving. the only thing really left is the CV joints. The boots are starting to crack anyway, so i might as well change them before they fling grease everywhere. I hope it takes care of it, i should be spending this money on my TJ.

07-01-2012, 07:49 PM	#10 (permalink)
J_Impact Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Member # 136485 Location: Canada Posts: 162	100% sure it's from the front? Front driveshaft good and greased? Have you recently pulled the diff cover?

07-01-2012, 08:59 PM	#11 (permalink)
rednekYJ Registered User Join Date: Mar 2012 Member # 214801 Posts: 34	The chicks mountaineer was doing the same thing. I was also leaning toward hub but for a couple hundred I decided to chase it down to be sure. I greased balljoints, TRE's, checked the CV's and went through 2sets of rotors and a set of pads. Finally got fed up and took a crap ton of Hi temp grease and greased the fawk out of both sides of the slides and the back of the brake pads. Noise is gone.

07-02-2012, 03:06 PM	#12 (permalink)
grnd93 Rock God Join Date: Jan 2006 Member # 64925 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,036	Slides are well lubed, I have never used anything of the back of brake pads. Diff cover has never been off, I guess I should check the front u-joints. I keep forgetting its 4wd. Need to get it warm, the jack it up and narrow it down. __________________ Originally Posted by void_of_light Somewhere in the Canadian wilderness, the new owners are questioning their decision to buy a forum filled to the brim with assholes.

07-02-2012, 03:19 PM	#13 (permalink)
rednekYJ Registered User Join Date: Mar 2012 Member # 214801 Posts: 34	I never used anything on the backs of any pads until this vehicle. Just throwing it out there...... The bare dry back of the pad plate vibrates against the metal of the caliper. Keeping some brake grease or "anti-squeal" on the back of the pad metal keeps the metal to metal vibrations to a minimum. The action of the pad being pressed against the disk is what causes this, but the noise is transmitted to and amplified by the bare metal to metal contact of the caliper and brake pad back plate. The grease or anti squeal dampen the vibration and keep the bare metal surfaces apart & from making the noise.

07-29-2012, 06:54 AM	#15 (permalink)
grnd93 Rock God Join Date: Jan 2006 Member # 64925 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,036	Pulled the brakes, lubed the slides, smeared the jizz on the back I the pads. Noise was still there. Ordered new cv's and the rf hub. Replaced those yesterday. Still have the noise. Crawled back under it. Shook the drive shaft and I think I found the noise. The bad news is those fucking joints are expensive! $200 apiece, or $500 for the whole shaft! __________________ Originally Posted by void_of_light Somewhere in the Canadian wilderness, the new owners are questioning their decision to buy a forum filled to the brim with assholes.

07-29-2012, 07:57 AM	#16 (permalink)
Free Beer Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Member # 114084 Location: Capo Beach Posts: 100	Oh shit! $500!? For $500 I would seriously be thinking wether or not she NEEDS 4wd. My wife's KJ had a brand new front driveshaft when we bought it used. __________________ 08' JK 2-door, locked, 37's 90' F250 IDI turbo 4x4 Look twice for motorcyclists!

07-29-2012, 08:26 AM	#18 (permalink)
kb1jkn Trailside mechanic Join Date: Mar 2007 Member # 88359 Location: Harwinton Ct Posts: 145	Perhaps you can take the drive shaft out and carefully pop the covers off the joints and pack them with grease. if the thing isnt vibeing like crazy then it would make me think the joint it dry more than worn out yet....... if the whole thing is pressed together then drill a small hole, use a pencile grease tip and fill to your heats content. a nice shot of rtv in the hole will seal it up. For that money i think its well worth a shot.

07-29-2012, 11:02 AM	#20 (permalink)
MrWillys Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Member # 9991 Location: Cold Springs, NV Posts: 2,347	First, pull the driveshaft and see if the noise goes away before spending anymore cash. __________________ [url]www.scotthansen.net[/url]

07-30-2012, 06:01 PM	#24 (permalink)
crashnzuk Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Member # 17632 Location: West Sacramento, CA Posts: 5,370	Those shafts suck. We have a bunch of Libertys at work. We had the local driveline shop make a shaft with common joints (one end double cardan CV) to see if it would work as a cheaper alternative, but that one had some vibes. It wasn't an issue for us since these things never leave our property, but if it was street driven it would get very old very fast. I would get a factory shaft. Just thought I'd pass on some first hand experience. Travis.. __________________ 74 Ramcharger, 360, 4spd, 60/70 on 37s 91.5 Dodge 6BT 5 spd tow rig

07-30-2012, 06:49 PM	#25 (permalink)
grnd93 Rock God Join Date: Jan 2006 Member # 64925 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,036	Just spent the last hour wrestling the shaft out. The rear CV is definitely shot. Boot is gone and everything. I'm sorta kicking myself for not seeing it sooner, but at least I took care of some of the things on the front end that were eventually going to need attention anyway. now I gotta find a cost effective fix for this, looking at another $200 minimum probably just to replace to bad CV. Oh and I noticed grease coming from the LF lower ball joint boot. I musta punctured that when I had it apart Saturday. Anyone got a match?

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