Now to the project!

So this is why you really clicked on this thread... the project! Understand that I am new to 4X4s, trucks, and of road capable vehicles in general. So, if you see a stupid newbie thing, feel free to smack me upside the the head and say so!

OK, the project. I started out with a 1989 Jeep Grand Wagoneer that I picked up off a local Toyota dealer's wholesale lot for about 1/2 his asking price. FOr the first two years of ownership, it was a utility vehicle, and I did enough general maintenance to keep it running reasonably well. Last year, however, my wife and I decided we would sell my 1994 BMW M5 and make the Jeep my every day vehicle. Understand that I am an unpublished writer, so I do not use my "daily driver" daily. I do, however, have goals for the build.

Goals:
-Reasonable fuel mileage
-Reliable
-Comfortable
-Capable as a "Bug Out Vehicle"
-Reasonably capable off road (fields and trails)
-Utilitarian

To these ends I set about making a list of items to purchase. I decided on a GM LS architecture engine for its reliability, ease of service, and good fuel mileage to power ratio, and chose the LY5 from a 2008 Silverado. Behind this I went with a 4L65E, beefed up a bit when we rebuilt it. I stuck with the factory NP229 transfer case because I like the full time AWD capability that enables me to use it as a "get around" vehicle when we get a few inches of snow (I live in East Tennessee, we don't get much and so the state does not have the equipment to deal with it).

Lists... I like lists. Here is the "starting point" list:

LY5/4L60E........................................................2008 Chevy Silverado
Modify Harness.................................................Wayne Hartwig/Diff Wizard
Engine Mounts..................................................JeepinPete
Transmission Mounts..........................................Ebay Vendor
Transmission Rebuild Kit.....................................Transtech
Transmission/Transfer Case Adapter.....................Novak
Transfer Case Seal Kit........................................Ebay Vendor
Radiator...........................................................Griffin '67-'69 Camaro LS Swap (Summit)
Radiator Fan.....................................................Lincoln Mark VIII (Ebay Vendor)
Radiator Hoses..................................................2008 Silverado (modified)
Fuel Tank.........................................................'98 Chevy Suburban-42 Gallon (Ebay Vendor)
Fuel Pump/Sending Unit.....................................'98 Chevy Suburban (Ebay Vendor)
Fuel Lines.........................................................PTFE Lined Braided Line
Fuel Filter/Regulator(?)......................................Corvette filter w/internal regulator
Shifter Linkage..................................................FSJ Turbo 400
A/C-Heat Unit...................................................'70s Chevy Truck (Integrated Heat-A/C)
A/C Evaporator..................................................'79 Firebird
Heater Core......................................................'70s Chevy Truck
A/C Condenser...................................................Polar Bear Inc
Transmission Oil Cooler.......................................30,000lb GVW w/fan
Transmission Cooler Lines...................................2008 Silverado (modified)
Power Steering Lines/Adapters............................'89 Grand Wagoneer
Driveshafts.......................................................'89 Grand Wagoneer
Gauges............................................................Speedhut
Transmission Rebuild Tools..................................Ebay Vendor
Wheels.............................................................Jeg's (Ultra Wheel Type 50/51)

The Vehicle:

1989 Jeep Grand Wagoneer

It's pretty much rust-free, with a few hail induced dings and a rather tweaked hood (it came open at some 35mph)

The engine arrives!

Out with the old...

Air Conditioning mock up...

Behind the dash...

In with the new...

Clears the firewall nicely!

Notes: The JeepinPete mounts were PERFECT! I mounted the engine 1" forward of the original forward holes. By doing this, the transfer case is within an inch of its original mounting, and thus the linkage fits with no issues. Also, no driveshaft work is needed! The Turbo 400 shifter linkage was spot on.

 

If you look carefully, you can see how I moved the engine forward by drilling new holes in the frame mounts.

And from the top...

Lot's of clearance underneath. The transfer case sits almost exactly where it did originally, though the rear crossmember is now in the rear mounting holes.

The evaporator case is built, a new evaporator has been installed, and it is all bolted on. It's a tight fit, but we have a good 3/4" clearance in the tightest places.

The defrost diaphragm didn't clear the engine inset, so...

I'll make a cover for it of course.

Clears the booster with no problems.

I love how much room is actually behind the dash! Lots of room for ducting, etc.

The heat outlet sits in the right spot too. (I think I need new carpet)

 

We have front sheet metal!

A friend I found on the garage door... she didn't survive the introduction.

Along the way, I had several days when the weather would not cooperate. Still, I had to get something done...

First up, mirrors.

A bit of looking turned up a mirror head I liked, so I bought a couple off the dreaded Ebay. They are from a '91-'97 Toyota Previa.

At first, I had planned on making a spacer to adapt them. But after some thought and a bit of guessuring, I decided I could install the mirror head on the original base. Of course, if I was wrong, the attempt would lead to the destruction of both pieces, but when has anything like that stopped me?

The result.

I don't think they turned out too badly. The transition between the new and old is a little obvious, but I have an idea to fix that. Of course, I will also be painting the base to match the mirror head.

 

Since the humidity made even a small job like the conversion of one mirror a way to sweaty endeavor, I decided I should do something inside where it is air conditioned. So I will be sitting down shortly to design the new dash layout.

Here are the gauges I will be using.

They are made by Speehut. They have LED lighting, and are built to order (about a week). You can customize their look too! These have red pointers and white numbers during the day, and red pointers with red numbers at night. The speedometer and tachometer are CAN-BUS, and derive their information from the ECM. The quad gauge is not yet available in CAN-BUS, so it will require individual sending units.

The speedometer.

Tachometer.

Quad gauge with oil pressure, coolant temperature, system voltage, and fuel level. The fuel level gauge can be used with any sending unit that works in any range below 300 ohms. I had them preset mine to work with the Suburban sending unit. All the gauges feature an LED warning light that can be set to your specs.

It was a slow day, but at least I accomplished something!

 

More progress!

Here is the radiator "module" all put together. I'm using a Lincoln Mark VIII two-speed fan (moves something like 4,500 cfm on high!), along with a triple-pass A/C condenser and a 30,000 gvw transmission cooler.

Here you can see the outer side. The transmission cooler has its own fan, and I will run the oil through a thermostat to ensure the oil reaches operating temperature quickly, even in cold weather.

H

The radiator "module" has been bolted in place. The assembly sits a lot further forward than original!

As you can see, there is not a lot of clearance between the fan and the water pump! You can also see how much further forward it all sits.

I had to modify the hood release bar, raising it to clear the radiator. Here you can see I had to shorten the pull lever. I'll use a Lokar hood release lever to release the hood. It will give me more leverage than the original.

Driver's side latch. You can see how much I raised the cross bar.

Passenger's side.

Marked the front valance so I could cut it to clear the radiator assembly.

Once the valance was cut, it bolted on with no difficulty, as did the grill.

 

I bought an early style hood, but wanted to use my late style grill. As you know, the hood hits the grill at the corners of the "scoop" section. A little cutting and a little hammer and dolly work, and it fits pretty well. I also think the center section of the hood is more squared off than the early style, making the "scoop" section seem taller and more defined.

The straps in the picture above are to hold the shelter down in wind. My calls them "Jeep Bondage."

Worked on laying out the dash. The center stack will hold a Stereo/cd player with navigation, a scanner, the A/C controls, and a CB. I need to extend the wires between the chassis and the face of the CB, so I can remotely mount the chassis as it is too long to simply mount.

In front of the driver there will be three gauges, a speedometer and tachometer that will operate of the '08 ecm, and a quad gauge that will use sending units mounted on the engine. The dash pad and vertical sides of the center stack will be covered in black vinyl. The dash fascia will be covered in brushed aluminum.

This is where and how I will mount the airbox. I need an elbow to come out of the box and pull air from in front of the core support. Once I get everything mounted, I'll cover the hole in the inner fender with fiberglass.

I made a heat blanket to protect the bottom of the evaporator case from the heat off the exhaust manifold. The manifold already has a heat shield as well, so the evaporator case should stay reasonably cool.

 

New lists... I told you I like lists!

Modify Harness: I went with a new harness from PSI ( LS1 Swap | LS1 Conversion | EFI Conversion | Wiring Harness | Fuel Injection Conversion | EFI Kit | Standalone Wiring Harness for LS1 LS2 LS3 LS6 LS7 LS9 LSA LSX Vortec - Performance Systems Integration ). It was around the same price as many charge to modify a harness and it gets you all new connectors. Also, the harness has a good 2' of length added to allow you to install the ECM and TCM inside the vehicle.

Cruise Control: Because I am running a Gen IV engine, the GM cruise control cannot be easily adapted (it's in the BCM, and not the ECM as with earlier LS series engines). I went with a system from Spanky's Rod Shop (http://www.spankysrodshop.net/ ) which interrupts the circuit between the gas pedal and ECM to implement its functions. Apparently it can be programmed to work with any cruise control buttons, so I had them program it to work with the factory Jeep/GM column switch.

Fan Controller: Painless #30141, F5 Single 70 Amp Fan PWM Controller. This will soft-start the fan and bring it to 50% power at whatever "on" temperature you set. As the vehicle's temperature rises, the unit increases fan speed. It also bypasses the temperature setting when you turn the A/C on, and allows a settable speed at which it no longer turns on the fan. I will use this feature to run the low speed on my Lincoln Mark VIII fan. The ECM will turn on the high speed feature of the fan if the engine gets to the higher temperature the ECM is set at. This gives me a redundant system to ensure the engine runs nice and cool.

Keyless Entry: I went with a system by AutoLoc ( Bear Claw Latches | Vehicle Power Accessories « AutoLoc Power Accessories ). I chose them because they have a flip-key style remote that works with their system. I'll be modifying a key and maybe the ignition cylinder to use this.

Remote Start: I know, such a sissy sort of thing, right? Well, my wife has MS, and heat, as she says, is the enemy. Being able to remotely start the vehicle and allow the interior to cool down will be great for her and a luxury for me. I went with an Omega/Excalibur unit.

Battery Isolator: I plan on running at least one deep cycle battery besides the normal "starting" battery. This is to go along with all the other "stuff" I have added, along with the inverter I plan on installing. I am using a "smart isolator" by Intellitec.

Battery Charger: I will be mounting a Battery Tender on board.

Stereo/Navigation: Kenwood DNX6140. A double DIN stereo/cd player with iPod control and Garmin GPS.

CB: Galaxy DX949 w/SSB. The unit is too deep to mount how I wanted, so I am extending the wires to the faceplate so I can remote mount the body and install the face in my dash.

Scanner: Uniden BCT15X TrunkTracker III... yeah, I don't know why, I just had to have one.


As for progress...

Over the weekend I tried out the simulated "brushed aluminum" vinyl I purchased. Great stuff! (3M DiNoc). I do need to use the adhesive promoter/primer 3M sells, and so have ordered that. I'll post pics of the finished dash insert once I get the primer and redo it.

I also began running the Engine Management harness. So far, I have only run into one difficulty, the cam sensor connector is different from my engine's. I'll contact PSI as soon as I have checked all the other connectors, but I imagine I will just need to swap out the connector.

 

Well then! Started making the permanent dash inserts (the ones pictured before are templates). These were cut from 1/4" ABS plastic sheet, and covered with a titanium DiNoc vinyl applique.

Driver's side:

Speedhut gauges, Harley Davidson turn, high beam, and "pursuit" lights. The two "pursuit" lights are for the Check Engine light, and the Brake Warning Light.

Passenger's side:

The A/C outlets are Ford F150.

While digging out the Razor Grill I have for sale (spoken for), I found this little guy...

It's up the the buyer as to whether or not they want the critter.

More has been accomplished, but I don't yet have pictures. I started making the inserts for the center of the dash, but miss-measured and ruined the plastic sheet I had for them. A new piece is on its way.

And the cat sleeps...

 

As I mentioned before, the CB would not fit in the dash, so, to quote Tim Allen, I rewired it.

In keeping with the posting of critters encountered along the way, here is the lovely lady I found nesting atop the garage door.

 

After many weeks of migraines, road trips, migraines, house work, migraines, cleaning out the storage are of the garage, migraines, rearranging the guest bedroom, migraines, and working on my father's '59 Impala project, I am finally back to work. Besides all the other stuff going on, I have also been plagued with a bunch of migraines. Did I mention that? I go in for surgery on my nasal passages on 14 February 2014 to see about helping with the migraines... I have my fingers crossed!

Anyway, without further ado, here goes the progress...

As you may recall, I had to modify the hood latch mechanism to clear the new radiator placement. I purchased a hood latch lever and cable system from Lokar and installed it. Works like a champ!

I was able to modify the original hood latch lever assembly to use as the bracket for the new lever assembly.

With the new heat-A/C system, there is plenty room up behind the passenger side of the dash. A few brackets, and some careful measuring, and we have a place to mount the ECM, TCM, Engine Management Fuse Panel, Auxiliary Fuse Panel, CB Radio, Remote Start Module, Keyless Entry Module, and... I think that's it... maybe...

I also mounted the passenger side defroster duct (the old style to go with the old style dash pad). I had to modify it a bit, but it works quite well now. I still need to make manifolds to connect the ducts to the Heater Box.

Under the hood, I mounted the Fan Control Module.

And the Auxiliary Battery Control Module

On the roof I got the CB Antenna and Scanner Antenna mounted.

 

In between migraines and other assorted distractions, I finished the radio panel. The upper hole is for the head unit w/GPS. The bottom is for the CB radio face. The toggles are for all manner of stuff. I have different labels coming as I don't like the way these look.

As I have one of the coolest wives in the world, I also got to decorate the guest bedroom. I don't think it turned out too badly. Helps make up for the awful pink paint, don' you think?

The pink will go sooner or later, but for now, at least all the cool stuff makes it at least tolerable!

 

Behold! The Infamous 42 gallon Suburban fuel tank. So how do you put 50lbs of manure in a 25lb bag? Well, fist you remove anything that sticks up from the top of the tank. On the Suburban tank there are two vapor vents (for the charcoal canister) and a vent for the fill. The vapor vents were filled with freeze plugs (turned down to 1.22") and installed with JB Marine Weld(fuel resistant). The hole for the fill vent (it was already torn off when I bought the tank-got a deal because it was damaged) was filled with by tapping the hole to 3/8 NPT and screwing in a plug coated with the same JB weld. I then made a new vent next to the original fill by drilling a 1/4 hole and enlarging it with a tapered tap (to make an area for the tap to bite), tapping it 3/8 NPT, and installing a plug.

As others have done, I cut the rear most crossmember off to make room. Sine the tank will block access to the nuts that hold the bumper and trailer hitch, I welded them.

I had to trim the floor brace so I could get the tank as high as possible.

While under the truck, I installed my new air shocks. I drilled a couple holed in the crossmember located just behind the rear axle to hang the tank mounting bolts.

I braced the rear of the frame with an L brace (to hang the tank) and a larger brace attached to the bumper brackets. Here is the L bracket.

A hole was cut in the floor to make easy access for the fuel sender/fuel pump unit.

The tank, once installed doesn't hang all that low... here it is from a normal viewing height, sans trailer hitch.

Here it is as seen from down low. again, sans trailer hitch.

The exhaust passes between the rear shock and fuel tank with little room to spare. Currently there is about 1/4" between the exhaust and each item.

Here is another view. Once done, I'll take it where I can get it up on a lift so I can dimple the pipe and the tank to give about 1/2" between the pipe and the shock, and a good 1" between it and the tank.

 

Since we were working on the nether regions, the headpipe was next. Using the Silverado manifolds, I welded up a headpipe with crossover. The welds aren't the prettiest, mostly because I was welding stainless with a MIG. Still, I got good penetration, and that's all that matters.

The pipe is in two pieces with a sliding clamp to ease installation. As it runs very close to the transmission pan and servo cover, I wrapped it. This will also help keep heat out of the interior.

You can see how close it runs to the pan. There is good clearance for driveshaft movement too.

I had to cut the original floor heat shield for clearance, so the wrap will really help.

Here it runs down past the transmission. There is a shield that also protects the transmission from the heat.

Passenger side clearance. Good distance between the exhaust and the starter.

And that's all for now... sorry, no critter pictures today. We do have a couple of cool spiders just outside our bedroom window, but I haven't taken any good shots of them.

 

Sometimes it's the little things that count. Meet my new steering wheel. The wheel is a recent Ebay purchase. It's not a very expensive steering wheel. Though a real wood wheel, the spokes were a bit scratched up, so I got it at a good price.

But being me, I didn't want it to look like an aftermarket wheel. It had to look like it could have come from Jeep. So...

I rummaged through some boxes in the garage attic and came up with an old Oldsmobile sport wheel horn button. I disassembled the button, discarding everything but the portion that connects the button to the actual electrical portion of the horn button (to be purchased later), and the lower escutcheon. I sanded and painted the lower escutcheon silver, then trimmed the center portion of a Jeep Cherokee horn button to fit.

After gluing these together, and while waiting for the glue to set, I sanded the steering wheel's spokes and taped off the wooden part so the spokes could be painted. In the end, I think it turned out quite nicely. The whole thing will attach to a '68-pre airbag GM sport wheel 6-screw hub, and will use the corresponding horn button (electrical portion) and so should be quite reliable.

Made a place to hold the Chevy airbox. I cut a 4" hole in the bottom of the airbox, and made a tube to connect behind the front fascia.

Modified the airbox to close off the original air intake and instead use the new 4" intake tube. By the way, the welds are Silicon Bronze. Nice stuff to work with! Not for anything structural of course, but great for working with sheet metal.

A test fit with the lid.

Finished, except for the last flex joint and clamps.

I forgot to take photos of the build process, but here's the battery box (built out of the bed frame mentioned in the other thread).

I also made a bar to hold 3 Maxi Fuse holders and 4 Bosch style relays.

Lastly, I mounted a set of Cadillac 4-note horns (A, C, D, and F) in the old pie plate positions. They're not actually louder than the factory horns, but their tone really gets your attention!

 

And now it seems you are as up to date as I am! Christmas and cold weather have held the project up for a month or three. I have enclosed the sides of my Jeep tent, making it a Jeep cocoon, and purchased a 17,000 btu electric heater to use on days that make it above 45*, so I hope to have some more progress shortly. In the mean time, I keep writing, researching, and thinking.

Researching has me thinking of a wide track conversion. I have the real Jeep W/T flares, but not the axles. If anyone knows of a Jeep J-series truck front axle for sale in the greater Knoxville, TN area, let me know. I am also thinking of a Ford F250 front axle, I think 78-79 are the ones to look for. I need a driver's drop to mate with the NP229.

Rear axles are more wide open.

As for the writing, my current "WIP" (author speak for Work In Progress) is a tale of 5 guys who go wondering through an abandoned junk yard packed full of cars from the 30s through the 70s. All goes well until they start ending up dead. I have ways to go to finish it, but I am having a lot of fun writing it. I even have a title and cover for it!

Again, thanks for having me! Hope to post some more progress soon!

 

Wow that was a lot.

I am confused at the pictures you included of the guest bedroom.

 

It was just a silly distraction to take up some time when I couldn't work on the Jeep, and to show how cool my wife is.

 

He's saying post pictures of your wife naked.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Ah! LOL

I don't think that would work out too well. However, if you have any of my wife naked, feel free to post them up though. :grinpimp:

 

I have a few! lol:flipoff2:

 

Nice attention to detail. Can't remember if I read anything about the rest of your drievtrain axle wise, and tire size wise.
Looking forward to reading more, definitely have my attention.

 

Thanks for the compliment!

As I don't plan any serious off-road work, I think I will be staying with Dana 44 axles, though I would like to go wider.

Front: I am casually looking for a J-Series truck or Ford F250 Dana 44 front axle. Plans are an ECTED Max-Lock electric locker.

Rear: Here I am less certain. I am thinking Dana 44, only because I think the Max-Lock would make a great compromise in the back as well. It performs as a limited slip (a lot of remote lockers are open unless locked) on the street, but is completely locked if I flip the switch. Still, I am open to something a bit tougher.

Tires: I originally had decided on 31" (275/70R16 Yokohama Geolander A/T-S or Michelin LTX M/S actually), and that is currently what my ECM is programmed for, but I am thinking I might instead go larger, maybe 34" (LT285/75R16).

Any input is always welcome... and again, thanks for the kudos!


Additional Information: I see that Auburn just announced a Dana 60 version of the ECTED Max-Locker...

 

I would say since your using a newer v8 that produces more power then any old tired v8 does I would look at a 60/14b/70/10.25 from the get go for the rear. Not saying the 44 won't hold up but I'm the kind of guy that would hate to be exploring and pop there goes a axle shaft or something. Also your jeep isn't light, I had a 78 full size bronco with a 429 and a 44 in the rear on 35s it lasted one trip up the mtns before it was towed home and through a 70 in the rear with a 44 up front and it lasted forever only blew up front hubs.

I don't have much info for you on the Eaton max locker but i did just install 2 Eaton e lockers into my buddies xj front 30 rear 44 and the rear is not an upgrade over any locker its a 2 pin design unlike the front 30 being a 4 pin design. He loves them though having full locker at the flip of a switch is nice, my rear factory Toyota elocker has never given me problems.

 

Yeah, I am apt to agree with you on that one...

I'm thinking Dana 60 as ECTED Max Locker is now available for them. That gives me a posi in the rear, with option to lock it up if needed. I don't know if I want a Max Locker in the front, or a Eaton E locker. Or maybe I should just run ARB Air Lockers at both ends. Too many decisions! Right now, I just want to be able to get back out and work on the thing instead of sitting around recovering from sinus surgery (they removed a dozen or so cysts, the biggest one being some 1/2"-3/4" round!

As always, thoughts are appreciated!

 

Doh, forgot to update this thread...

The good news is, I haven't forgotten to work on it! It's in running, driving, cruise control works, transmission shifts well, ready for a road trip or two condition!

Working on a tailgate cover:

Still some projects left to finish, but it's a driver now!

 

Sweet build! How did the dash turn out? Any pics of it?

 

Thanks!

The dash turned out well, I think

Under the hood turned out pretty nice too.

 

Loved the build…until I saw the spider pics. After being bit by both a black widow and a fiddleback, I have a deep hatred for them.

 

I bet! Hope they didn't bring up too many bad memories for ya!

 

I also live in Knoxville and recently bought a 76 Wagoneer. I would like to hit you up sometime, if it's ok, to talk about doing a dash. Good job!

 

Absolutely!

 

Just an update...

So far the Jeep has made two trips to and back from Albuquerque, NM, not to mention numerous trips to and back from the Wake Forrest area (we live Knoxville, TN), all with little difficulty.

Here she sits at my in-laws' home (we got "snowed in" when 40 was closed pretty much from just outside Albuquerque to the Oklahoma state line).

This year I plan on redoing interior, lifting it, and building my own roof rack.

Happy New Year!