Project "Collateral" - 2005 LJ on 37's - Page 17 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Jeep - Non Hardcore
Notices

Reply
 
Share Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-19-2017, 02:04 PM   #401 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
New bracket. Cooling now, and then I'll pull the sway bar and check for bump on both sides.



__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-19-2017, 05:39 PM   #402 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
Got it done... I think. 6.5" up travel with the frame where it is now. It may end up more like 7.5 to keep level with the front.

Full stuff - passenger



Driver - has about 3/4" less uptravel because of the fuel lines and track bar mount.



Fuel lines - need to tie them up by the frame rail so they're clear of the axle brackets.

__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by rokk99; 05-14-2017 at 12:49 PM.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Old 03-20-2017, 08:13 PM   #403 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
Replacement driver-side brake line is hooked up, springs installed and it's back on its own weight all around. With 1" of preload it's sitting about 1/2" high in the rear with 6-3/4" up travel. All in all, very happy with how things are looking. Just a couple small things left like bleed the brakes, hook up the driveshaft and recharge the nitrogen in the bumps and shocks. Oh, and the exhaust mods...



__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 03-21-2017, 08:49 AM   #404 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Member # 322985
Posts: 108
Looking good, rokk.
beaureed445 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-22-2017, 02:00 PM   #405 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Member # 477561
Location: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posts: 45
Sub'd! Great build Rokk.
Uncle_T is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-23-2017, 07:11 PM   #406 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
14" long limit straps are perfect length and hooked up.



Ride


Full droop
__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-23-2017, 08:08 PM   #407 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
Filled the shocks up to 200psi. I've never used a chuck like this before, but it makes sense now. Unscrew the valve, screw the chuck onto the schrader, turn on the tank, screw the valve down to depress the schrader. It fills in about 2 seconds. Turn the tank off, unscrew the valve and unscrew the chuck from the schrader. Charged the bumps to 200psi also. Well one of them anyway. The other has an issue...



I used an old lifting band as extra padding and to protect the cage paint. Not sure I like the look, but I do like the setup and where the reservoirs are located.



__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-24-2017, 08:14 PM   #408 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
Yesterday, just as I was patting myself on the back and admiring a job well done, I decided that the fuel line needed to be bent just a bit further from the track bar bracket. A little tug here, pull there and POP... broke the plastic nipple that the fuel line attaches to. Shit... so now I'm screwed, and if you've followed this build for a while you'll know this is the second time I've busted this part of the pump.

So, out comes the tank, but wait, one of the two bolts on the front side is stripped. Air saw, die grinder and an hour later the tank is out. Spent most of the day today chasing down a fuel pump module. $220 later, and after drilling a new mounting hole, the tank is back in and the Jeep is running. So, aside from having now spent about $500 replacing fuel pumps because I'm stupid, it was a good day.

Before all of this, while bleeding the brakes, everything was going well - just getting the last few bubbles out all of a sudden it was just air. I checked the master cylinder and it looked full; it wasn't. Over the years, there became a stain where the fluid usually sits making it look just like it was full to that point. This was actually a relief because there's nothing worse than not knowing what's going on. We kept at it, and probably 20 pumps of the brake later some fluid started to come out of the bleeder. Hit them again and got a good pedal.

Still, tomorrow she drives! Looking forward to the payoff. This has been a lot of work. Sometimes I think people just show all of the pretty parts magically coming together. In my world it's a total shit show about half the time. The nice thing nowadays is that I have enough tools to work out of jams like these. For example, if I didn't have a good die grinder with a good carbide burr and a good air saw I would have not been able to get the tank back out.

Little things to button up and not forget tomorrow morning:
- Tighten limit strap bolts
- Tighten frame-side track bar
- Tie ebrake lines out of the way - not going to deal with the eldorado ebrakes right now
- Attach soft top and windows (probably a hard thing to forget...)
- Hood pins
- Torque all lug nuts
- Bend passenger front brake line inward (has been hit by the antirock arm bolt)
__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-25-2017, 10:54 AM   #409 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
Proof it's actually done. First time on the road in 8 months. Haven't been on the highway yet, but the tire balance is good up to 55. Need to build the covers where the coilovers come through the body. It's pretty loud, not that it was ever quiet.

__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-25-2017, 01:09 PM   #410 (permalink)
Granite Guru
 
giles45shop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Member # 197896
Location: Odessa, FL
Posts: 520
Looking good - has to be a great feeling to actually drive it! Mine is coming up on a year of being under the knife. My buddy teases me every time we see a Jeep on the road - "His is better than yours" - because it's actually driving
giles45shop is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-25-2017, 07:09 PM   #411 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
It is for sure. Now I have to do the front coilovers... hoping that will be a couple weekends. There's a lot less to deal with like the tank, brake lines, etc.
__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-25-2017, 10:31 PM   #412 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
Trying to plan a bit more before diving in. Here's the list for the front:


Prep
- Lower rear 1" : lowered but now have zero preload
- Weigh all four corners - rear corners 560lb
-- PF compressed height 14-1/4", 19" free - 855 lb
-- DF compressed height 14-3/4" , 19.5" free - 855 lb
- Buy bumps
- Buy bump cans
- Start figuring spring rates

- Re-valve coilovers
- Order strip of 3/16"
- Buy limit strap mounts : messed up order, need two more

Front coilovers
- Remove battery
- Remove fenders
- Measure for current front frame height - 20-1/2"
- Set at desired frame height
- Remove tires
- Remove old shocks and springs

- Remove brake line
- Cut factory coil and shock tower off
- Set axle at full bump, leave steering connected
- Tack lower mounts
- Position coilover with 1" shaft showing
- Determine top mount position
- Check frame height and shaft showing at ride height
- Mark cut of shock hoop
- Tack hoop
- Mount coilover and cycle
- Trim inner fenders if necessary
- Figure out reservoir mounting location (shock hoop?)
- Remove coilover

Bump Stops
- Move axle to full bump
- Uncharge bump and compress
- Determine frame and landing pad location keep as far back as possible
- Reuse old spring pad?
- Place bumps 1" higher than needed
- Tack cans to frame
- Remove, trim or build new landing pad
- Build can support mounts
- Tack mounts

Track bar & sway bar
- Remove upper track bar mount half and swaybar mount
- Build new upper track bar mount out of 3/8"
- Wire paint off lower, inner mount
- Re-weld inner, lower mount for additional strength
- Tack upper on and mark location
- Use bolt to mark drill location on upper
- Drill
- Tack upper on
- Cycle suspension
- Build vertical brace to tie halves together 3/16"
- Tack brace on
- Cycle
- Finish weld mount
- Measure and mock anti rock mount
- Make mount of 3/8"
- Tack
- Cycle
- Finish weld

Limit straps
- Attach shocks
- Drop axle (with steering attached
- Tack limit strap mounts
- Measure strap lengths
- Order straps
- Attach and cycle
- Finish weld

Finish
- Weld everything
- Charge shocks
- Charge bumps
- Paint
- Attach fenders
- Add springs
- Mount bumps and shocks
__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by rokk99; 05-12-2017 at 10:02 PM.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-01-2017, 02:21 PM   #413 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
One issue has popped up. There is a weird creaking sound from the passenger rear where the coilover tower is. I can't find anything rubbing. I have a few guesses but need to get it fixed cause it's annoying as hell.
__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by rokk99; 04-01-2017 at 07:31 PM.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-02-2017, 07:47 PM   #414 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
I took the lower control arm off and greased it again. Didn't fix it. So next was to try and tighten the gas tank skid carriage bolts. While there I loosened the straps that hold the tank to the skid. One of those worked, and the sound seems to have gone away for now.
__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-03-2017, 07:29 PM   #415 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
CSW corner sprung weights rear

The rear feels a bit stiff, even with the shocks adjusted all the way soft it feels pretty firm. Not bad but more like I'd prefer if they were adjusted firm. So, using the CSW calculator I came up with a significantly lower corner weight than estimated before. I had been using 650lb, but it's coming up as 380lb. (EDIT: this is wrong; see next post). The gas tank is nearly empty, so add about 40lb per corner for 420. About 200lb less.

Because of this, to get the desired frame height, the preload had to be taken out. So, looks like it needs softer springs and maybe even different valving...
__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by rokk99; 05-06-2017 at 02:30 PM.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-03-2017, 07:41 PM   #416 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
Ahhhh, being dumb makes life a lot harder my measurement for d1 was wrong. Fixing that takes the weight to 560lb, passing the common sense check much easier. Still lighter than estimated.
__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-20-2017, 07:13 PM   #417 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
The jeep is back in the garage. Here's some work from the weekend. Last time I'll ever have to deal with getting coil springs off! It's easier this way... just cut out the tower. No coil compressor needed. Gonna try to do this without removing the axle.



__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-06-2017, 07:27 AM   #418 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
Driver-side factory junk off. What worked for me here was cutting the top off parallel with the frame. A sawzall worked good. This gave better access to the welds at the frame.



__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-06-2017, 07:36 AM   #419 (permalink)
Rock God
 
Jorge Meza's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Member # 70340
Posts: 1,760
Maybe I missed it but what size coilovers and what spring rate you are using? I'm also converting my LJ to 1 tons and coilovers with adjusters....

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
__________________
4 Sale:
* NTH Long Arm suspension for 03-06 TJ
* 42RLE Transmission from 04 TJ


WTB:
* 40 or 42 x 17 Tires
* JD2 Model 32 bender
* Full Hydraulic Steering SYSTEM
* 2.5 Coilovers
* LSX/6L80 complete takeout
* ARB for D60 (RD167)
Jorge Meza is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-06-2017, 02:34 PM   #420 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorge Meza View Post
Maybe I missed it but what size coilovers and what spring rate you are using? I'm also converting my LJ to 1 tons and coilovers with adjusters....
They're 2.0's. Might have fooled you cause of the DSC reservoirs, which normally come on 2.5's. Springs are 225 over 150, and are a bit too firm. I'm on the light side in the rear though.
__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-06-2017, 04:55 PM   #421 (permalink)
Rock God
 
Jorge Meza's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Member # 70340
Posts: 1,760
Quote:
Originally Posted by rokk99 View Post
They're 2.0's. Might have fooled you cause of the DSC reservoirs, which normally come on 2.5's. Springs are 225 over 150, and are a bit too firm. I'm on the light side in the rear though.
14", 16", 18" ?

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
__________________
4 Sale:
* NTH Long Arm suspension for 03-06 TJ
* 42RLE Transmission from 04 TJ


WTB:
* 40 or 42 x 17 Tires
* JD2 Model 32 bender
* Full Hydraulic Steering SYSTEM
* 2.5 Coilovers
* LSX/6L80 complete takeout
* ARB for D60 (RD167)
Jorge Meza is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-07-2017, 04:36 PM   #422 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Member # 690690
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 25
I'm running this on my TJ.
Front 250 over 250 ADS 2.5 14" with reservoirs with adjusters,Warn 8274, York OBA and RJ60.
Rear 225 over 250 ADS 2.5 14" with reservoirs,14b, hard top and full doors.
Runs out firm on the freeway and good on trails, think I have a little too much primary spring though.
I'm getting it scaled at a race shop this week to truly see where I need to be.

Last edited by bkh98; 05-07-2017 at 04:38 PM.
bkh98 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-07-2017, 08:44 PM   #423 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorge Meza View Post
14", 16", 18" ?

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
Both are 14's.
__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-07-2017, 08:47 PM   #424 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkh98 View Post
I'm running this on my TJ.
Front 250 over 250 ADS 2.5 14" with reservoirs with adjusters,Warn 8274, York OBA and RJ60.
Rear 225 over 250 ADS 2.5 14" with reservoirs,14b, hard top and full doors.
Runs out firm on the freeway and good on trails, think I have a little too much primary spring though.
I'm getting it scaled at a race shop this week to truly see where I need to be.
That seems pretty stiff in the rear, but also depends on the valving. The valve stack is pretty firm on mine.
__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-07-2017, 09:19 PM   #425 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member # 165670
Location: Colorado
Posts: 519
Here's where it's at. The coilovers lean back at 20 degrees (edit: now 12), which is the same as the front.





They're also leaning in a fair amount.

__________________
My build.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by rokk99; 05-15-2017 at 01:34 PM.
rokk99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:02 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.