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I also read most are happy with .120wall = ( 3/16" right)

But the ones who did go with 1/4" wall were happy and well I am pretty set on 1/4" for the added strength, weight is not a huge concern.
I mean the one guy said it only added a 100lbs so I'm completely ok with that...


.120 wall is 1/8th. (.125)
.187 wall is 3/16th.





Weight is the enemy of performance. Full bodied TJs can get close to 6,000 pounds real quick and thats gonna suck with a 4.0. Actually thats gonna sucks with about any motor in my opinion. There is no reason to run 1/4 tube on a frame thats also gonna be caged. I use .120 wall and then plate where I have suspension mounts or crossmembers.


Use 2x3.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
If you want a 2x4 frame use this
https://davescustomsunlimited.com/jeep-tj-rear-frame-back-half-kit/


or use this
https://www.motobilt.com/jeep-tj-frame-back-half-kit.html


I went with the Artec kit with 2x3 in the back. I've used products from the companies above and would have used one of theirs. But I got a good deal on a artec kit someone bought and didn't use.
Thanks for the links pretty sure I looked into them but I could be wrong.. the 4x4 outlet kit it the only kit I could verify that will work with the fuel tank in stock location.


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Discussion starter · #24 ·
.120 wall is 1/8th. (.125)
.187 wall is 3/16th.





Weight is the enemy of performance. Full bodied TJs can get close to 6,000 pounds real quick and thats gonna suck with a 4.0. Actually thats gonna sucks with about any motor in my opinion. There is no reason to run 1/4 tube on a frame thats also gonna be caged. I use .120 wall and then plate where I have suspension mounts or crossmembers.


Use 2x3.
Ok gotcha.. so maybe 3/16ths then instead of 1/4 is Somthing to thinking about.

And with that I agree the 2x3 is the way to go.

The 4.0 will stay for awhile, LS with come down the road but nonetheless weight does add up fast so I guess I would end up caring and that would happen when it's to late, so better think of it now.

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Ok gotcha.. so maybe 3/16ths then instead of 1/4 is Somthing to thinking about.

And with that I agree the 2x3 is the way to go.

The 4.0 will stay for awhile, LS with come down the road but nonetheless weight does add up fast so I guess I would end up caring and that would happen when it's to late, so better think of it now.

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3/16th will be good.


The hoist is gonna be sweet.
 
Discussion starter · #26 · (Edited)
The promo code is JPMAG
Big shout out and thank you to BKH98.
Thanks for the heads up I used it and save alot.


After spending 2 hours or so with my buddy looking at what piecing a kit together and how much I could save vs ordering all from genright we decided I would order the genright kit.

I know the sticker price is a shock to many, but it also comes with top quality parts, and many of those made in the US; which is important to me/us.

So with that being said here's a run down on what I ordered today from Genright.

Legend comp suspension 6"-7" stretch.
3 link front 4 link rear.
Coilover hoops front and rear ( as I will not be notching the frame)
King 2.0 + resi upgrade.
King 2.0 air bumps and brackets.
23 gal comp tank with skid.
Twisted pitman arm.
Full roll cage with V bar and removable harness bar.
Steel comp corner guards.
Mini boat slider rock rails.
Front high line inner fender with 4" highline fenders and install kit.
Rear sway bar kit.
Transmission crossmemeber kit.
Aluminum gas filler kit.

Pretty dang excited to get this in so I can drool a little..

Other parts I will be ordering this week are.
Artec body mounts.
Ruff stuff one ton steering setup
And ruff stuff diff covers.

The axle upgrades and tire package will also be ordered. Some of the specifics of that depends on how quick I can get it.

O and lastly going down to my local metal yard tomorrow to price out2x3x3/16 & 2x4x3/16 box for the frame.



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Discussion starter · #32 ·
Thanks for the link... my local steel distributor said 2.5x4 was not available which I thought was true as I found another side that had a huge selection but not 2.5" ..

Your frame looks really good, looks like you built the entire frame, Yes?



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Discussion starter · #33 ·
We finished up the lift yesturday so we pulled the jeep back in and continued tear down today..

I have quickly found out the frame had more issues them I thought, so really happy we decided to build a new one.

Also found bondo on the rear corners, ugh it's thick and a hack jeep for sure. Hope I do not find much more.



Image


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Thanks for the link... my local steel distributor said 2.5x4 was not available which I thought was true as I found another side that had a huge selection but not 2.5" ..

Your frame looks really good, looks like you built the entire frame, Yes?
Noo I just cut the front and back off left the middle but did relocate the body mounts etc.. took me a while. Used 1/4 plate with plug welds at the seems.

Image


Image
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Just placed a parts order...

Yukon- 35 spline outers.
5.13 gears
Locking hubs.

ARB.
35 spline air lockers (4.10 and down)
twin compressor .

17" KMC bead locks. ( not 100% sure as my guys figuring it out, told him as long as they are true bead locks in my bolt pattern and 17" I don't care; reason being they are temporary)

40x13.50x17 TOYO MTs.



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Discussion starter · #40 ·
Ok so couple small updates.

Decided to get the tub dustless blasted and primed so I can see the extent of the body issues and fix them.

decided on the bead locks pictured bellow.

Pops and I are starting the frame tomorrow, going to start from the rear and work forward.

O and I got a new welding lid, Esab A50.


I have done tons of reading on the frame but if y'all have any input or tips and tricks feel free to chime in along the way.
Image


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