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Old 10-14-2005, 01:01 AM   #1 (permalink)
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What Parts?

Here's what I need to know, and price doesn't matter:
1) Which Springs:
  • Alcan Springs
  • Rubicon Express 1.5"
2) Which Shocks:
  • Rancho RS9000X
  • Old Man Emu (OME) Nitrocharger's
  • Edelbrock Xtreme Travel Remote Resorvoir's
  • Bilstein 7100's (Had these before on my SAS 4Runner)
  • Fox By-Pass Shocks
3) Which Steering Stabilizer:
  • Rancho RS5000
  • Old Man Emu (OME)
  • Black Diamond
4) Which CV Driveshaft:
  • Tom Wood's
  • HighAngle Driveline
5) Which Shackles:
  • OME Greasable
  • Daystar Greasable
  • Currie Greasable
Other things I have taken into consideration that I may need are:

1) Stainless Steel Brakelines:
  • Russelll
  • Goodridge
2) Sway-Bar Disconnects:
  • Nth Degree Quicksilver
  • JKS Quicker Disconnects
3) High-Steer Components:4) Shock Towers/Mounts (Front and Rear):
  • F250
  • Aftermarket Shock Hoop
  • Custom Designed
4) Rear Anti-Wrap Traction Bar:
  • No ideas where to start looking (Most I've seen are home-brews)

This is all in my attempt to make my SOA CJ-5 a wheeler and daily driver. I need to make sure I have a comprehensive itemized list of what I am going to splurg on redo'ing the SOA. The current setup is OE 2" Front Springs, OE 2.5" Rear Springs w/ crappy SkyCrapper Shocks and Steering Stabilizer. Axles are staying stock until I leave Hawaii next year as shipping on two D60's is almost as much as the axles themselves.

Please help me out guys, if I am missing something, let me know...if you have recommendations, especially regarding the "Springs" let me know as well.

Let the bashing begin
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Old 10-14-2005, 02:04 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Ok, now that you are in the right forum

Springs:
-R.E. for sure

Shocks:
-toss up between bilstein and fox

stabilizer:
-screw it and go with a hydro assist from PSC or west texas (I went with PSC and love it with 38" SX's)

Shafts:
-High angle all the way, I know Jesse personally and he's the best with customer service and has helped with tight deadlines and his product rocks

Shackles:
-I like the ones Bluetorch Fabrication makes, same idea as the others but with some "improvements" to the designs

Brakelines:
-they are all the same, I used Earls

Swaybar disc.
-The JKS ones may be cheaper but I like the new ones by R.E. if you haven't seen them yet.

High steer:
-M.O.R.E. makes something I think

Shock towers:
-Make your own

Traction bar stuff:
-Again Bluetorch fab has all kinds of brakets available

Hope this helps, since I was so mean before
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Old 10-14-2005, 09:07 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I like Carolina Driveline drive shafts. They can even do cryo if you really want to get strong. The rest looks good...I guess. What size tires are planning to run? How do plan to wheel it?

1. You may need to re-gear the axles to keep high gear on the highway.
<31' = 3.07
<33" = 3.73
<35" = 4.10 to as much as you can get

2. I would lock the front axle, in the very least.
For a DD you can go cheap with a lunchbox (Lok-Rite or Detriot) or you can do it up a bit and get nice selectable locker like an ARB (which will need on board air )

3. Axle shafts. Depending on tire size and wheelin style, you may want to think about cromally shafts. Even if you run what you have, get some good ones to replace your stock ones with if (read as when) you snap them.

4. Roll cage, rock sliders....steel stuff to protect passengers and sheet metal, depending on prefferences

5. Stickers....they add HP
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Old 10-14-2005, 09:12 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Brake lines, check out speedwaymotors.com really cheap and stainless steel brake lines that are 48" long for only $15, beat that

Check my sig, a lot of info on a SOA and parts, build, etc that could help ya

Gui
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Old 10-14-2005, 09:36 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I run Hi Angle shafts... I will not purchase drive shafts from anyone else.

Agree with Roc on everything else. I think M.O.R.E makes a traction bar. Might also want to do a search on BamBar.
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Old 10-14-2005, 11:18 AM   #6 (permalink)
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My advice is to sell the 5 in Hawaii and buy another when you get stateside. If you think shipping on 60's is bad... Now, you need to think a little about ultimate tire size and lift. That will dictate wheelbase and width. A SOA CJ-5 on 38's with stock wheelbase has no place on the trail. Fine at the mall or show, but too tippy on the trail.

My opinions:
1) RE SOA
2) Bilstein
3) None, steering stabilizers are sooo 70's
4) Tom Woods has been very good to me
5) No opinion, a shackle is a shackle

Other opinions:
1) Brake line length matters, I like rubber, you like SS
2) Swaybars are for link suspensions, ditch it.
3) Do the steering as simple as possible, you will ditch it all when you go to 60's. Hell, this alone would cover shipping for one of the 60's.
4) F-250 if you want function, hoop if you want bling
5) Sam's Offroad HD bar. Forget the Bam bar.
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Old 10-14-2005, 02:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kreep
My advice is to sell the 5 in Hawaii and buy another when you get stateside. If you think shipping on 60's is bad... Now, you need to think a little about ultimate tire size and lift. That will dictate wheelbase and width. A SOA CJ-5 on 38's with stock wheelbase has no place on the trail. Fine at the mall or show, but too tippy on the trail.

My opinions:
1) RE SOA
2) Bilstein
3) None, steering stabilizers are sooo 70's
4) Tom Woods has been very good to me
5) No opinion, a shackle is a shackle

Other opinions:
1) Brake line length matters, I like rubber, you like SS
2) Swaybars are for link suspensions, ditch it.
3) Do the steering as simple as possible, you will ditch it all when you go to 60's. Hell, this alone would cover shipping for one of the 60's.
4) F-250 if you want function, hoop if you want bling
5) Sam's Offroad HD bar. Forget the Bam bar.
I agree with all this but if you want to do something with the steering I would go dana 44 flat top knuckles(they will bolt up to a stock CJ axle) and high steer, or at least move the draglink to the top of the passanger side knuckle.
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Old 10-14-2005, 05:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I suggest starting witha budget, people can give you more info based on that as well. I think you can do a SOA from a couple hundred bucks to close to a grand depending what you are getting and where.

Gui
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Old 10-14-2005, 10:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rok-jeep
Ok, now that you are in the right forum

Springs:
-R.E. for sure
I'm really thinking of stretching the wheelbase which is why Alcan

Shocks:
-toss up between bilstein and fox
My only dilemma with Bilsteins is that my 7100's rusted badly on all the non-stainless steel parts of these shocks

stabilizer:
-screw it and go with a hydro assist from PSC or west texas (I went with PSC and love it with 38" SX's)
I'd rather wait till Cali to do any steering mods this big and do it when I swap the front axle

Shafts:
-High angle all the way, I know Jesse personally and he's the best with customer service and has helped with tight deadlines and his product rocks
I ran Jesse's stuff on my 88 SAS 4Runner, just testing the water to see if his name still follows him, I've ran TW's too, both good.....Jesse's are just always overbuilt (a good thing)

Shackles:
-I like the ones Bluetorch Fabrication makes, same idea as the others but with some "improvements" to the designs
I'll have to check them out, there CS is good from what I can tell.

Brakelines:
-they are all the same, I used Earls
Rubber or Stainless?

Swaybar disc.
-The JKS ones may be cheaper but I like the new ones by R.E. if you haven't seen them yet.
Someone mentioned no swapbar period....thoughts on no sway bar on a DD?

High steer:
-M.O.R.E. makes something I think
I don't think they do, I know they make one specifically for YJ/D30 combos' though.

Shock towers:
-Make your own
$22-$24 is so much easier for the Ford 250's though

Traction bar stuff:
-Again Bluetorch fab has all kinds of brakets available
Again, will have to check them out.

Hope this helps, since I was so mean before
No worries brother...to be honest it's been a while since I was here and didn't notice the newbie Jeep forum for my newbie questions. I don't get worked up and over the internet forums, especially Pirate4x4. Once I realized I posted my shit in the wrong area I moved it like a good boy. There's good info here, just need to do extensive year long "search damnit" to find the answers.
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Old 10-14-2005, 10:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks.....see blue

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwistedTJTank
I like Carolina Driveline drive shafts. They can even do cryo if you really want to get strong. The rest looks good...I guess. What size tires are planning to run? How do plan to wheel it?
Just ordered Toyo Open Country M/T in 35x13.5x15's

1. You may need to re-gear the axles to keep high gear on the highway.
<31' = 3.07
<33" = 3.73
<35" = 4.10 to as much as you can get
Hoping the 304 will handle the 35's, it does well with 33's and the stock gearing, whatever the hell it is. I'm not wanting to put any money in the axles since they are going away next year for One-Ton's

2. I would lock the front axle, in the very least.
For a DD you can go cheap with a lunchbox (Lok-Rite or Detriot) or you can do it up a bit and get nice selectable locker like an ARB (which will need on board air )
Again, avoiding axle upgrade costs

3. Axle shafts. Depending on tire size and wheelin style, you may want to think about cromally shafts. Even if you run what you have, get some good ones to replace your stock ones with if (read as when) you snap them.
I have a superior one piece AMC 20 rear currently, that's about as good as it's getting I think till next year.

4. Roll cage, rock sliders....steel stuff to protect passengers and sheet metal, depending on prefferences
Already have rocksliders, need belly up, f/r bumpers though

5. Stickers....they add HP
Of course they do, especally the K&N ones
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Old 10-14-2005, 10:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geberhard
Brake lines, check out speedwaymotors.com really cheap and stainless steel brake lines that are 48" long for only $15, beat that

Check my sig, a lot of info on a SOA and parts, build, etc that could help ya

Gui
Thanks for the tip on the well prices lines....and the SOA link.
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Old 10-14-2005, 11:04 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kreep
My advice is to sell the 5 in Hawaii and buy another when you get stateside. If you think shipping on 60's is bad... Not gonna happen. I just flew to FL to purchase this Jeep and spent $1800 to ship it to Hawaii. Anyway, the military will ship the CJ to my next duty assignment so I won't be paying shipping again like I did this time. Now, you need to think a little about ultimate tire size and lift. That will dictate wheelbase and width. A SOA CJ-5 on 38's with stock wheelbase has no place on the trail. Fine at the mall or show, but too tippy on the trail. I just purchased 35x13.5x15 Toyo Open Country M/T's today. I'm gonna run either 1 or 1.5" springs on the SOA. Want to keep the COG low unlike my 4Runner with 14" of lift, One-Tons and 36x14.5's.

My opinions:
1) RE SOA Want to stretch the wheelbase, which is why I am thinking Alcan
2) Bilstein Surprised how many say Bilsteins (I've ran the 7100's before, they rusted badly though
3) None, steering stabilizers are sooo 70's Okay
4) Tom Woods has been very good to me Ditto for both guys
5) No opinion, a shackle is a shackle Just greasable is the concensus I am getting

Other opinions:
1) Brake line length matters, I like rubber, you like SS Any benefit over one or the other "I've always ran SS"
2) Swaybars are for link suspensions, ditch it. It's gonna be a DD for a while, need to keep roll down to a minimum with the narrow CJ
3) Do the steering as simple as possible, you will ditch it all when you go to 60's. Hell, this alone would cover shipping for one of the 60's. Concur as long as the new springs don't interfere
4) F-250 if you want function, hoop if you want bling F250 seem the logical choice
5) Sam's Offroad HD bar. Forget the Bam bar.Will have to do a search on the Sam's Offorad HD Bar.
Thanks for your info....much appreciated.
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Old 10-14-2005, 11:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NE-RokToy
I agree with all this but if you want to do something with the steering I would go dana 44 flat top knuckles(they will bolt up to a stock CJ axle) and high steer, or at least move the draglink to the top of the passanger side knuckle.
My only concern is investing a lot of cash on a high-steer since I'm gonna swap the front end out next year. From what I found here: http://www.wfoconcepts.com/Steering/...edFlattop.html I'd be looking at $220+ for knuckles. I don't have access to junkyards to do pick and pulls like you mainlanders. Thoughts?
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Old 10-15-2005, 11:00 AM   #14 (permalink)
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  • Alcan Springs
  • Bilstein 7100's (Had these before on my SAS 4Runner)--must be good enough for you to mention that you had them before.
  • Old Man Emu (OME)
  • HighAngle Driveline
  • Currie Greasable
  • Goodridge--had 3 russell's break on me. not a goodridge yet. same length.
  • Nth Degree Quicksilver--JKS seems to all be messed up on everyone's rig i wheel with. seems like an expensive $120 bracket to hold the swaybar up.
  • Custom Designed
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Old 10-15-2005, 11:26 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I think you are on the right track but if you wanna stretch the wheel base go with XJ rear springs. Cheap, easy to find and allow for a 6" stretch
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