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Old 10-15-2005, 07:14 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Grip mode on

I just got my 35 replaced with a Dana 44! I had a Detriot installed and the gears replaced to 4.88s from the 3.07s. <Grip mode on> So after $2200 parts & labor I am thinking the install could have been done better. I bought the rear end used from a local shop because it has alloys, disk brakes and is set up for a TJ. Well I pick the Jeep up yesterday and relize the damn brakes don't work very good hell they barely work at all. I get it home and discover the drivers side axle is leaking grease like a mother and the passenger side axle is stock when the driver side is a Supior axle. THIS SUCKS! THe shop is closed for Truck'in Nationals this weekend so I can't take it back until MOnday. SHould have just bought the axle and done it myself but the ring and pinon work is beyond my ability level. <Grip mode off> Whew I feel better now. I can't wait to get the 37s on so my gearing is closer.
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Old 10-15-2005, 08:26 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Did you buy the axle from the same shop that installed it? It sounds to me that most of the problems are related to the axle itself, not the install. Where's it leaking from? Because the only thing they have to do to swap a R&P is pull the 3rd member. If you were told you were buying an axle with alloy shafts and good breaks, it sound like you got ripped. How much did you get the axle for? If it was a "good" deal, now you know why. As far as the brakes go, you might want to try to bleed the break lines and check to see if the fluid is topped off. But, definitely call the shop(s) and talk to them and see what they're willing to do. If I had bought an axle that was supposed to have alloy shafts and found out one was a stocker, I'd be gettin' some $$$ back or takin' a chunk of somebody's ass!
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Old 10-15-2005, 08:54 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by east_beast
Because the only thing they have to do to swap a R&P is pull the 3rd member.
Could you point out where the third member is on a 44?

If you were told one thing and found another, you should be asking questions. Either way, the Jeep should have never left the shop with brakes that do not work. Either the original setup will not work (wrong size MC for that size caliper) or the installation is questionable ( bleeding/ maintenace/ adjustment required ). The shop should be knowledgable enough to give you that info ahead of time before you spend money on a swap that does not work. I would be knocking on the door first thing Monday morning looking for answers.
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Old 10-15-2005, 08:57 AM   #4 (permalink)
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D44 doesnt have a removeable 3rd.
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Old 10-15-2005, 09:23 AM   #5 (permalink)
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goes to show how much attention I was paying...
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Old 10-15-2005, 09:46 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah, I bought the axle from the shop that did the install. It had a spool in it so I bought and had them install a Detroit as well as the front and rear R&P. I am hopeful the guy will repair everything on my list but it is disappointing for it to not be done right the fisrt time. Regarding the brakes: I bled them again just to make sure and it did not help so I am thinking it might require a master cyclinder modification. Maybe I can find out what the last owner was running for a MC.
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Old 10-15-2005, 09:58 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Those rear calipers take a larger volume of brake fluid to work than your old drums. There may be an o-ring or ball/spring in either the MC or proportioning valve that reduces the amount of fluid going to the rear lines. If yours does have one of those, it's pretty simple to remove the o-ring or ball to get more fluid going back there. Google disc brake swaps and I'm sure you'll find info and pics. Here's an example on a TJ http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/d44brake/bc-5.htm

If you bought the rear-end and install from the shop, and they let it out the door with bad brakes, a leaking seal and they lied to you about alloy shafts......well, they need a good asswhoopin and some bad publicity on the boards.
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Old 10-15-2005, 10:37 AM   #8 (permalink)
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^^^^^
x2
You don't pay $2200 for a half-assed job you coulda probably managed to do yourself.

BTW, if that axle had a spool in it, did you get it from them? If you bought the axle from them as is and then bought the Detroit, you should still get the spool, unless it was determined before hand that they were keeping the spool. Get your spool back from them and sell it!
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Old 10-15-2005, 04:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Pictures!
Drive another vehicle to the shop, and get them to send a wrecker to pick it up, at their cost.
Could need just a proportioning valve adjustment, if you've got a cool one. If not, get one that is adjustable, not just a single-ride setup. Pro-valves are fun to adjust, but pulling seals? Shame on you!
What do the pads look like? How are the caliper seals? How old and cruddy are the rubber lines?
Is the axle puking grease, or did a shitty mechanic just smear it all over, cleaning his hands? Or pumping too much in, and not cleaning it off.
No way to tell, now, but maybe they used your alloy axle in "Truckin Nationals". Doubt it, but possible.
Take pictures, for proof, and don't drive it. Why'd you drive it all the way home?
They'll do the work, to protect their reputation, but they'll want to nickel and dime you on it. Don't pay a fucking cent. Not even on a fucking pro-valve. That vehicle should have been road-tested first. If they talk shit, then call an attorney, bottom line.
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Old 10-15-2005, 04:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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What the fawk is a "grip" mode?
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Old 10-17-2005, 07:19 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Grip should have been gripe, stupid "E" key must be broke because it couldn't have been my typing
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Old 10-19-2005, 07:22 AM   #12 (permalink)
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To bring this post to a conclusion I have an update. First off I did not include the name of the shop because I wanted to make sure they rectified the troubles which they are making an effort to do. With that said here it the info. Todd at DesertFab Motorsports responded on Sunday to an email I sent him. He told me to come on in so he could check the brakes as well as the axle seal. I took it in and we bled the brakes again and they are working better now. He had already done the proportioning valve mod. The axle seal had stopped leaking so I figured the seal must have finally set into place but Todd did check the fluid level and it was full. THe passenger axle will be discussed with the previous owner as to where the alloy shaft is. I do not have a good feeling about this item and may have to chock it up to buying a used axle through a third party which SUCKS! I took the rig out for a test run on Sunday and it was wonderful.
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