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#1 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Mar 2004
Member # 27999
Location: Tulsa, Ok
Posts: 1,687
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Eliminating the prop valve - where to get fittings?
I want to eliminate the prop valve in my 81 CJ and go with a "T" in the front lines and a union and adjustable prop valve to the rears. Problem is, all the auto parts stores say they don't have the fittings (unions and T's) that I need. I also looked through a Summit catalog and didn't find anything. Where are you guys buying them?
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#3 (permalink) |
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Fistful of Boomstick
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Doc-14 Tactical Products: When it absolutely, positively needs to be made from random crap found in the back of my garage. You cant ban knowledge, learn to make your own guns right Here. New York, Colorado, Maryland, Conneticut….is your state next? Yes it is. Write, Vote and Fight. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Rock God
Join Date: Mar 2004
Member # 27999
Location: Tulsa, Ok
Posts: 1,687
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Quote:
And these have the flare in them to accept the flared lines? Thanks.
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Rock God
Join Date: Mar 2004
Member # 27999
Location: Tulsa, Ok
Posts: 1,687
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Quote:
Thanks, I will try them.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Mar 2004
Member # 27999
Location: Tulsa, Ok
Posts: 1,687
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Are brake line fittings NPT or SAE? I find some stuff that says 3/8-24 and some say 1/8 NPT.
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4-seater buggy |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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go to kragen or auto zone and ask for brass fitting they will bring you to a tool box thing with a bunch fitting in it and you have to fin the right ones to make it work
as for the front i would go with one hard line to a rubber rear line out of a jeep dodge what ever down to the axle then hard lines down the tube the rubber to your brakes
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92 3/4 ton yj stretched locked up on 44 14.50 20 bling bling rolled at seventy daily driven |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Member # 15811
Location: Oakdale CA
Posts: 1,936
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Might give AFCORACING.COM a try. I got all my stuff from them. Check the tech section for the 14bolt disc brake upgrade. There are links and part numbers.
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[COLOR="Lime"][SIZE="3"][B]booger weldz [/B][/SIZE]alternate account[/COLOR] 1994 fzj80 Elockers front and rear, 35 km2s, 10k winch, coolest station wagon in the world!! [COLOR="Silver"]♣[/COLOR][B][COLOR="Lime"][FONT="Arial Black"][B]Bink'sFab[/B][/FONT][/B][/color][COLOR="Silver"]rication[/COLOR][COLOR="Lime"]♣[/COLOR] - [URL="http://facebook.com/binksfab"]facebook.com/binksfab[/URL] |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Member # 29385
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 694
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Although lots of places carry them, Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware or whatever hardware chain you have shoud carry them in the plumbing area.(in brass) The fittings are usually a combination of flare and NPT. It's rare to see SAE threads used in a fluid fitting unless it's a swivel fitting.
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Fistful of Boomstick
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Quote:
oh and use FRIGGEN STEEL FITTINGS !!!! not that supid brass crap from the hardwear store. I dont know exactly what that shit is rated for but i know its no where near what the steel is. and you can get the steel ones for less
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Doc-14 Tactical Products: When it absolutely, positively needs to be made from random crap found in the back of my garage. You cant ban knowledge, learn to make your own guns right Here. New York, Colorado, Maryland, Conneticut….is your state next? Yes it is. Write, Vote and Fight. Last edited by usmcdoc14; 10-25-2005 at 05:22 AM. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Rock God
Join Date: Mar 2004
Member # 27999
Location: Tulsa, Ok
Posts: 1,687
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Quote:
Ok, what I did so far was get a 3/16" (tubing/hole size, not thread pitch) steel 'T' for the front lines and changed the fitting on the line coming from the MC to a std size ftg, like the ones on the lines going to the axles (3/8-24?). I think the 3/8-24 is the std ftg size for the 3/16" brake line. The line for the rear is 1/4" line. Why is that? I bought a 3/16" union for the rear, but am going back to get a 1/4" and it should work with the factory lines. Also, I asked about the Wilwood prop valve and it is 1/8 NPT, but it came with adapters to mate it to 1/4" line (which is what the rears are). I am not putting it in until I know for sure I need it, but this is a trail rig, so I think I will be OK without it. Thanks for all of the help.
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