Installing a RE L/A upgrade - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

toxic avenger · 10-24-2005, 10:54 AM

2001 TJ 4cyl 5spd has RE 4.5" short arm, I want...., I need...., I mean I just ordered the RE L/A upgrade kit...any "if I had to install one of these things again I would....info" that you Gods of the wrenches can teach this short bus riding retard about installing this kit would be appreciated. This is not a dd but it is registered to ride on the roads of the hillbilly state .

jeep has teraflex sye, one inch body lift, dana 30 front (open), junk 35 rear with super 35 kit w/ detroitlocker (4:88's) 33" M/T bias claws... waiting on L/A kit to measure for new c/v shaft. thank yunz!

P.S. I know you all are saying I should have taken the $$$ and got rid of the D35, just so you know I have a 8.8 sitting on my saw horses.

jeepartie · 10-24-2005, 05:37 PM

buy a third 1" hole saw. burned 2 up and it took forever finishing up.

also, if using a cutting wheel on the CA mounts, buy 15.
call as many friends as you can to help.
have plenty of beer on hand.

hope this helps

currupt4130 · 10-24-2005, 06:23 PM

walk through it the night before you actually do it, take the pieces and look at where and how they go together so you arent trying to figure it out in the middle of it all. maybe even lay it out so you can see it as a whole. whatever helps but getting and idea of it finished is always good

rd97tj · 10-24-2005, 07:06 PM

You might consider welding the skidplate brackets to the frame, I did not do it, but it would save a ton of time. You will need to relocate your rear shock mounts, and these do not come with the upgrade kit, might be worth purchasing seperate (this is do to the rotation of the axle=pinion angle). The directions call for placing the rear lower control arms with the grease zerk on the bottom, this will get ripped off first time out, you can still get to the zerk with it on top, just make sure and rotate the zerk to the outside before installing arm. That's all of the tips I can think of for now, I'm sure I'm leaving out a few things.

WoodMark · 10-24-2005, 07:45 PM

use cutting oil with the hole saws it works

jeeptjs · 10-24-2005, 09:51 PM

buy a high quality unibit for drilling through the frame, you'll be happy you did.

toxic avenger · 10-25-2005, 05:33 AM

thank yunz very much for all the helpful tech tips, I have a friend who is a Millwright at the steel mill I work at coming out to help and cut and weld. I'll post pictures of my revamped heep flexing on some West Virginia ROCKS.

10-24-2005, 10:54 AM	#1 (permalink)
toxic avenger Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Member # 36685 Location: Handcock County WV Posts: 28	Installing a RE L/A upgrade 2001 TJ 4cyl 5spd has RE 4.5" short arm, I want...., I need...., I mean I just ordered the RE L/A upgrade kit...any "if I had to install one of these things again I would....info" that you Gods of the wrenches can teach this short bus riding retard about installing this kit would be appreciated. This is not a dd but it is registered to ride on the roads of the hillbilly state . jeep has teraflex sye, one inch body lift, dana 30 front (open), junk 35 rear with super 35 kit w/ detroitlocker (4:88's) 33" M/T bias claws... waiting on L/A kit to measure for new c/v shaft. thank yunz! P.S. I know you all are saying I should have taken the $$$ and got rid of the D35, just so you know I have a 8.8 sitting on my saw horses.

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10-24-2005, 05:37 PM	#2 (permalink)
jeepartie Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Member # 32404 Posts: 43	buy a third 1" hole saw. burned 2 up and it took forever finishing up. also, if using a cutting wheel on the CA mounts, buy 15. call as many friends as you can to help. have plenty of beer on hand. hope this helps

10-24-2005, 06:23 PM	#3 (permalink)
currupt4130 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Member # 39371 Location: Rock Hill, SC Posts: 1,924	walk through it the night before you actually do it, take the pieces and look at where and how they go together so you arent trying to figure it out in the middle of it all. maybe even lay it out so you can see it as a whole. whatever helps but getting and idea of it finished is always good

10-24-2005, 07:06 PM	#4 (permalink)
rd97tj Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Member # 52406 Location: Kearney, MO Posts: 66	You might consider welding the skidplate brackets to the frame, I did not do it, but it would save a ton of time. You will need to relocate your rear shock mounts, and these do not come with the upgrade kit, might be worth purchasing seperate (this is do to the rotation of the axle=pinion angle). The directions call for placing the rear lower control arms with the grease zerk on the bottom, this will get ripped off first time out, you can still get to the zerk with it on top, just make sure and rotate the zerk to the outside before installing arm. That's all of the tips I can think of for now, I'm sure I'm leaving out a few things.

10-24-2005, 07:45 PM	#5 (permalink)
WoodMark Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Member # 56110 Location: Spring, Texas Posts: 37	use cutting oil with the hole saws it works

10-24-2005, 09:51 PM	#6 (permalink)
jeeptjs Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Member # 30201 Location: iowa Posts: 185	buy a high quality unibit for drilling through the frame, you'll be happy you did.

10-25-2005, 05:33 AM	#7 (permalink)
toxic avenger Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Member # 36685 Location: Handcock County WV Posts: 28	thank yunz very much for all the helpful tech tips, I have a friend who is a Millwright at the steel mill I work at coming out to help and cut and weld. I'll post pictures of my revamped heep flexing on some West Virginia ROCKS.