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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Homemade Control Arms??
Whats the easiest way to do this for a TJ. I need to make some adjustable rear upper control arms. I was thinking about buying some ends from a company and then making them, or maybe make the ends too. Just curious what everyone else thinks?
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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just buy them. You'll spend more time & money making a set. Unless you just want to build them, then by all means go for it. I'd personally make them out of at the very least 1.5" x .250" wall DOM or Cromoly, but 1.75" x .375" would be better. Then I'd use a johnny joint or "flex joint" at the ends. You could could save a few bucks by going bushing on one end too. Or Heims but they need to be pretty beefy which is $$$$.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Well I was at tractor supply today looking for some parts and stuff and found a control arm for tractor with heims at both ends. Really beefy, and adjustable. 20 bucks each....Should I go this route?? With the heims on both ends, not sure how those mount up and everything?
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#4 (permalink) | ||
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ZEUS of the JUICE!
Join Date: Sep 2003
Member # 22923
Location: Richmond, Va
Posts: 1,756
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Quote:
those are tractor 3 point hitch links...I highly doubt they would work for you and as for the hiems they are a bigass 1" bore you can TRY and use those but report back what you find out ![]() oh and for the 1" bolt on the hiems - press a rubber bushing inside it to reduce the bolts size ![]() ![]() I think Billavista here made a traction bar with those like 3 years ago
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 50997
Posts: 184
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Quote:
You don't need adjustable control arms unless you plan on changing your rigs suspension often. Adjustable control arms exist only because each rig is different, and because if they use a rod end (heim) they need to be replaced due to wear about every 15K miles. Calculate the length you need and make them solid. Use a johnny joint or bushing at each end. You can build a full set of long arms using stock bushings for around $150, add the extra $$ for johnny joints if you want to use those. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Addicted to Gear Oil
Join Date: Oct 2005
Member # 56050
Location: Oahu, Hawaii
Posts: 4,882
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Dude...Don't use tractor 3 links as suspension links. Yes, some,guys have used them as traction/antiwrap bars, but they are not up to the CRITICAL and POTENTIALLY FATAL task of supporting and locating the axles under your rig. The manufacturing tolerances/hardness/durability of tractor links are not even close to what you need for suspension links. With the amount of slop in a tractor link, your junk will be scary!
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#10 (permalink) | |
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ZEUS of the JUICE!
Join Date: Sep 2003
Member # 22923
Location: Richmond, Va
Posts: 1,756
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I would go bushings on the frame end and hiems on the axle end...but that's just me
![]() 1.75" - 2" OD 1/4" wall DOM would suffice...you can your rod ends from just about any suspension vendor here in the vendors section...or http://www.qa-1.com don't forget to get the rod end inserts ![]() you're looking at about $150+ PER ARM if you make them yourself...
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