full widths and lifts

[drenmaster j]

i dont really have a clue when it comes to making a custom setup, but my plans are for the 14 and 60 combo on my tj, just wondering if i can take a clayton kit and weld all the brackets on the new axles but keep them in the same spot as the stock axles. would it work the same way and not bind or would i have to figure out new locations for brackets?

that kind of makes no sense but hopefully somone can figure out what i am asking..

[drenmaster j]

let me try to ask again..

if i use the clayton hardarm stretch, will everything still work properly if i weld all the brackets where the instructions say to? even though i am using full width axles. or will i have to find diffent places to for the axle brackets.

[xj4life]

more than likely the clayton kit wont work. i'm not really familiar with it. i'm sure if you give them a call he can let ya know.

[jeeperak]

Im Not Familular With That Kit, But Lets Say If You Bought A Long Arm Kit For A Tj..replace The Axles Witht Fw But Welded The New Brackets In Stock Config It Would Be The Way To Do It. Because They Have Already Done The Math And Thats The Positions The Arms And Tabs Would Need To Be In For Proper Function...hope This Helps Man

[drenmaster j]

yea thats basicly what i wanted to know, becuase i was looking at some other jeeps on here and you guys said one had alot of "rear steer" becuase the postions of the arms, wondering if i would have that kind of problem or not.

[tweba99]

I plan on doing something very similar and it will work fine. Just take your stock axles that you have right now and use the pinion as a reference point on your old axles and measure to the right and the left of where the brackets are and mimic that onto your new axles using the pinion as a reference point again. You pinion will then line up with the t-case and the rest of the suspension will work with any TJ suspension system.

[TheMucker]

Give Clayton a call.

He sells some killer brackets to setup those axles for your TJ. And he should be able to answer any questions about connecting the longarms to those axles.

[Buba]

Originally Posted by tweba99

Just take your stock axles that you have right now and use the pinion as a reference point on your old axles and measure to the right and the left of where the brackets are and mimic that onto your new axles using the pinion as a reference point again.

Um NO.

Find the center point of the axle with a tape and work off that. Just because an axle is a center chunk, doesn't mean it's dead center. If you use the yoke as a reference point from a D35 to a 14bt, you could easily end up with the whole axle mounted a couple inches off center.

With all that said, I'ld imagine you're gonna run a 40" tire or bigger if you're swaping in 1 tons. Do you really want all that and a 93" WB?

[tweba99]

I was more referring to his front 60.

[Buba]

and the same applies

[jeeperak]

Originally Posted by tweba99

I was more referring to his front 60.

THATS FUNNY

[jmhinescj]

I think you would be better off to go ahead a give it a little more wheel base while your at it.


The other thing is that the clayton kit is designed to work with the factory bracketry on the front, you might do better to take advantage of the extras space you will have to position your link mount tabs better or go to a true 4-link, try the 4 link calculator and see what you come up with and call clayton about it, from what I remember they were real easy to deal with.

and for tweba99-----

[tweba99]

Originally Posted by Buba

and the same applies

I dont' see how, my buddy just got throught putting a 60 under the front of his TJ and that is how he measured for the brackets. I guess you have done it before on TJ so you know better than he does.

[jmhinescj]

If you lay out the bracket location based on the front pinion yoke location then on a front 60, for example, the yoke would be in the exact same place as it was on the stock front end. As long as both tubes were proportionantly longer than the front 30 then it would be fine (I would think). If the short side was proportionatly shorter than the short side on the stock front end then the pass side tire would stick out further then the drivers side.

It can be a pin to find the center of an axle with a bunch of bracketry and a chunk in the way...a plumb bob and piece of cardboard or builders paper makes it alot easier

[CSP]

Originally Posted by tweba99

I dont' see how, my buddy just got throught putting a 60 under the front of his TJ and that is how he measured for the brackets.

Because not all axles have the same relative distances from the pinion to the wheel mounting surfaces. It doesn't matter if it's a front axle or a rear axle, the same thing applies.

[CSP]

Originally Posted by tweba99

I dont' see how, my buddy just got throught putting a 60 under the front of his TJ and that is how he measured for the brackets.

Because not all axles have the same relative distances from the pinion to the wheel mounting surfaces. It doesn't matter if it's a front axle or a rear axle, the same thing applies.

[tweba99]

Originally Posted by CSP

Because not all axles have the same relative distances from the pinion to the wheel mounting surfaces. It doesn't matter if it's a front axle or a rear axle, the same thing applies.

But, if you are going with a full width a front 60 (78-79 with the longer short side) to replace your front D30 in a TJ then you should be able to use the pinion as your reference point as my buddy did.

[resqme]

But, if you are going with a full width a front 60 (78-79 with the longer short side) to replace your front D30 in a TJ then you should be able to use the pinion as your reference point as my buddy did.

He is, by coincidence, correct, I believe. Just went out and did some measurements and it appears that withthe pinion centered in the same position the the 30 pinon was centered, the axle will end up centered. THe same holds true for the HP 44's out of F-150's of the same era.

i dont really have a clue when it comes to making a custom setup

That being said, and having read this thread, I think anyone who tries to tackle this is headed for trouble with regard to final alignment, caster, etc. unless they are otherwise brilliant in the fabrication world.

[99grandtj]

It is not to hard just measure twice weld once! A tape measure and a angle finder is all you really need. FYI front 60 spring pads are set a 0 degrees and you want 4-6 degrees. the rear pinion is at about 20 degrees with stock wheelbase.

[resqme]

Won't disagree with you 99, just saying starting the thread with "I don't have clue", and then proceeding to say he wants to tackle this one head on is maybe not a good formula for success. Not saying it isn't possible, just saying he better have it together.

[99grandtj]

Yes you need a clue when doing this. Find a fellow jeeper who knows his stuff and brib him to help

[CSP]

Originally Posted by tweba99

But, if you are going with a full width a front 60 (78-79 with the longer short side) to replace your front D30 in a TJ then you should be able to use the pinion as your reference point as my buddy did.

That's good to know, but your first post stated nothing about this and you didn't know what axles the person asking the question was planning on using either. That's where people jump on others for making blanket statements that may or may not be true depending on the circumstances.

[tweba99]

Originally Posted by CSP

That's good to know, but your first post stated nothing about this and you didn't know what axles the person asking the question was planning on using either. That's where people jump on others for making blanket statements that may or may not be true depending on the circumstances.

Gotcha, but I figured since he had a TJ and wants to run the stock suspension up front then you pretty much have to get get a 60 out of a 78-79 to have room for the coil springs on the drivers side.