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#2 (permalink) | |
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ZEUS of the JUICE!
Join Date: Sep 2003
Member # 22923
Location: Richmond, Va
Posts: 1,756
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well they are the same bolt pattern and the H1's have larger brakes OEM so I don't think you will have a problem...
what brakes are you running now?
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#3 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Sep 2002
Member # 14004
Location: Illinois
Posts: 846
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The rear should be fine, I ran them on a Dana 70 rear for a while. You may hit the tie rod in front unless you run a spacer, on my Dana 44 front I needed a 1.5" spacer to clear.
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82 CJ7 - TBI 304/T18a/D300/44/70/4.88/40's 87 Samurai - GSX carbs/16V 1.6/GRS-II/linked rear/31's |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Sep 2002
Member # 14004
Location: Illinois
Posts: 846
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They are 16.5 inch wheels so they should clear your calipers fine. The 7 inch back spacing can be an issue on the front though.
Also, since the wheel is 8.25" wide (9.25" overall) only 2.25" of wheel covers the hubs so they are vulnerable to some serious rock hits.
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82 CJ7 - TBI 304/T18a/D300/44/70/4.88/40's 87 Samurai - GSX carbs/16V 1.6/GRS-II/linked rear/31's |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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You should generaly expect the front rims to hit the tie rod ends.
Hey Benzz0, H1's have inboard brakes, it's the portal box that lives in the huge backspacing.... not the brakes.
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'93 YJ, 5.0/C6/Atlas 4sp/ 38.5 SX's...D60's F&R with ARB's on coils |
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#7 (permalink) | ||
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ZEUS of the JUICE!
Join Date: Sep 2003
Member # 22923
Location: Richmond, Va
Posts: 1,756
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Quote:
![]() ![]() meh....those wheels will work dude and whateveryoneelse said about the front may be an issue
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Buy the proper hi steer arms! Several companys have great arms that will easily clear the rims. I chose WFO HD double ended arms, not only do they look sweet, they allow you to run the tie rod behind and above the axle.
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'93 YJ, 5.0/C6/Atlas 4sp/ 38.5 SX's...D60's F&R with ARB's on coils |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
No worries, I only metioned it as a point of clearity, wasn't trying to bust yer balls
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'93 YJ, 5.0/C6/Atlas 4sp/ 38.5 SX's...D60's F&R with ARB's on coils |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Member # 66280
Location: Hendersonville NC
Posts: 358
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The stock location of the tie rod on the dana 60 will not work with the H1 wheels. If you do have a 60 front
here is what I did on my CJ-7, cut the stock tierod locations off with a sawzall about 2" back on the knuckle, grind them down kinda rounded off I got 2 hy-steer arms from Aaron at www.harshterrain.com they are offset and specially made for the hummer rims, on my arms I had 2 holes drilled for the large 1 ton tre's used on the Chevy, dodge 1 ton axles this moved my tierod up over top of the axle and Keeps it safe from rocks, or safer. If you use the stock tierod it will need to be shortened to compensate for the offset hy-steer arms I used the big tre's for the draglink too, If you do this you will need to replace your pitman arm with a waggy pitman arm, It is beefier and can be drilled for the big tre Last edited by guffey24; 11-28-2006 at 11:40 AM. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Feb 2006
Member # 67642
Location: Currently in Baghdad
Posts: 958
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You can use stock tierod location with DRW hubs, but that opens up a new can of worms
x2 on cutting stock steering arm and going to hi steer
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"I can do all things with a sawzall who strengthens me" - Philippians 4:13, or something like that |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Member # 21858
Location: Monterrey Mexico
Posts: 209
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Quote:
same setup ford 78 hp d60 in front 14 bolts rear first with drums now with disks h1 8 bolts
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cj5 76 SOA,OBA,OBW,LPG 14b & 60RC W/detroits High steering and ram assisted ford t18 and 205 , rear Fox air shocks new toy Cj7 82 on 33's setuped to mall crawling :D |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Member # 66280
Location: Hendersonville NC
Posts: 358
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wanted to add another thing on the H1's, and steering issues
I didnt want to put the tierod up and behind the axle because of oil pan issues, so I put it up and forward my only option was to move the steering box forward 1.5 inches
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Just a little buggy |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20839
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 45
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Is that pic the location of the draglink before moving the box forward? What pitman arm are you running? 3/4 or 1 ton TRE's?
sorry for all the questions. Just reading up before i tear into mine
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Brendan 46 CJ2A |
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Member # 66280
Location: Hendersonville NC
Posts: 358
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Quote:
the tre's are 1 ton, If you decide to use 1 ton tre's use a waggy pitman arm, it will fit on a CJ power steering box reason for using the waggy arm, is because it is overall bigger especially on the end where the tre hooks using a 1 ton tre, the end of the pitman arm will have to be tapered, I didnt feel there was enough material on the end of the stock CJ arm to taper it for the 1 ton tre, it would have been a weak point
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Just a little buggy |
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#22 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Member # 66280
Location: Hendersonville NC
Posts: 358
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Quote:
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Just a little buggy |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Sep 2002
Member # 14004
Location: Illinois
Posts: 846
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I've run stock and recentered H1 wheels on an 8 lug D44 front. You need about a 1.5" spacer to clear the TRE on the stock wheel. I think you would have to move the steering behind the axle to use a hi-steer setup.
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82 CJ7 - TBI 304/T18a/D300/44/70/4.88/40's 87 Samurai - GSX carbs/16V 1.6/GRS-II/linked rear/31's |
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