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#3 (permalink) | |
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Dabbler
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Quote:
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Member # 51210
Location: san jose
Posts: 441
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I used beer
I wrenched on the pitman arm puller shown above till it was tight then i would tap it for 5 min give or take, have a beer tighten- tap, have a beer tighten -tap until a six pack later it poped off. works great
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Member # 69326
Location: Central CA
Posts: 29
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First I fabbed up a 1/4" plate to protect the steering box seal to the shaft. Took a cutting torch and heated up the arm. Used a pitman arm puller combined with a BFH to remove. I bought the jeep from a guy who ran it in salted roads in the winter. I don't know how else I could have removed it. I have also heard guys grooving out the arm with an angle grinder and had success doing that.
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#9 (permalink) |
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SnivelRightsViolator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Member # 82394
Location: Orangevale
Posts: 371
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I've used a QUALITY 3jaw puller, get it tight, get it hot. POW it's off. I've used this method 3 or 4 times.Heat is the key ingredient in this situation, the factory uses loc-tite on the splines
you should as well.
Last edited by BerzerCO; 01-15-2007 at 01:28 PM. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Member # 70501
Location: Southington, CT
Posts: 373
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Heat is definately the way to go. Put a puller on it keeping quite a bit of pressure. With the pressure applied, heat the crap out of it with a torch. Agaihn, while the pitman arm is red hot, tighten up the puller to more pressure on. If the heat alone doesnt work, throw some cold water on it while it is scalding red hot. The reaction to the cold water will make it pop right off if the puller is on.
__________________
88 YJ, Clayton long arms, AMC 360, Dana 60, 14 bolt , T18/NP205, 37" Iroks, fuel cell, MasterCrafts |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Member # 41529
Location: The Great Flat North
Posts: 95
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If that doesnt work, sleep on it, seriously, tighten it up real good, penetrating oil the shit out of it, and go for supper, whatever. I came back out, 3 taps and it fell off, i do mean taps, not beatings. this was after tightening it with an 800 ft-lb impact while beating the living piss out of it, getting mad and going in for supper. 13 years of salted roads on my 91 at that point (flexed the puller bad but it didnt break). 2 lb ballpein tapper
Last edited by JR650; 01-15-2007 at 03:02 PM. Reason: add |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 38088
Location: IL
Posts: 28
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Use a good quality puller like this one:
![]() Matco PA 643 And then use a breaker bar on the ratchet/wrench...I've never had to cut any pitman arm to get it off much less heat, beat it and so forth - even cars from the 50's and 60's. Slow and steady pressure is best and it will just pop. edit - added pic
__________________
Jeff SOLD: 2001, 2003 TJ - Stay tuned for "Project DD" Last edited by jeffj78; 01-15-2007 at 03:08 PM. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Member # 27365
Location: NJ
Posts: 66
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what I have done for every YJ i pulled the arm off of was put the puller on it and tighten it down real good..
then with a long piece of rod going from the top beween the radiator and front grill place the rod of the end of the pitman arm and hammer away. then go down and tighten up the puller again and repeat. you could also use a piece of pipe... i also did this on an F250 I had. it has worked every time....... |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Member # 55458
Location: 48085
Posts: 461
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I'm going to go with the heat it group. Did the son's YJ that way and it only took a few minutes once we put mild heat on it. Wouldn't budge prior to that. Mild heat, good puller, and a breaker bar. Then a light tap with a hammer and it was off.
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