BTU quesiton

[fluidmotion]

could some one tell me what the jeep 4.0L is rated for BTU's and how much higher it would be stroked to a 4.6L or if its by the gas octane and compression ratio im looking for 9.75:1 running 93 octane. ive been searching google and a couple of the boards but i havent found anything. im trying to pair a good oil cooler to my motor and i need to figure out my BTU rating.

[dannnthemann]

What are you talking about?

BTU= British Thermal Units

Are you wanting to use your enigine as a heat source.

[fluidmotion]

im looking at picking up a B&M engine oil cooler and on the website they rate them in BTU's. heres the link for the ones im looking at (coolers)

[dannnthemann]

This isnt something we can really figure out for you. We need to know what kind of conditions you will be wheeling in. If you are in a cool enviroment an engine oil cooler isnt very neccesary. However in a hot desert enviroment it may be.

I dont run an engine oil cooler and I mainly wheel in the hot nevada dessert.

You should be alright with the smaller one, but bigger is better.

Hope that helps.

[fluidmotion]

well for the most part i just wheel the PNW but since i stroked my motor i cant keep it cool in the summer when wheeling. i put in a CSF HD 3 row radiator, 180* t-stat, high flow water pump, replaced the clutch fan with a electric pulling 2950 cfm, and wired the stock aux fan to a manual switch. this all worked great when my motor wasnt stroked, about 200* was the hottest it would ever heat up to until i switched the aux fan on and it cooled right back down. but since its stroked it doesnt want to stay cool in the hot months.

when i wheeled last summer i had to crank the heat on full blast with both fans running and it was still going up to the 220-240 range. i made sure and flushed the coolant system but it still would run hot. thats why im looking for an oil cooler to help with cooling some. unless there is another route, but im stumped. im also looking at getting my AC evacuated (since i never use it) and removing the condenser to get more air flow to the raidator but im not sure how much that will actually help

[Never Monday]

Originally Posted by fluidmotion

when i wheeled last summer i had to crank the heat on full blast with both fans running and it was still going up to the 220-240 range.

Are you sure something else isn't going on? Mabey the bottom end is too tight? What oil temps were you getting? What oil pressure. I think your coolant temp is trying to compensate for another problem heating the engine.

[fluidmotion]

Originally Posted by Never Monday

Are you sure something else isn't going on? Mabey the bottom end is too tight? What oil temps were you getting? What oil pressure. I think your coolant temp is trying to compensate for another problem heating the engine.

well i dont have an oil temp gauge so i cant tell you what they are hitting but the pressure is pretty constant at ~60 on my gauge in the dash, every once in a while at idle dropping to 40 when the engine is real warm (normal operating temp) but as soon as i touch the gas its back to ~60. i dont think the bottom end is too tight because then it should be an on going problem that im experiencing all the time and my problem only happens when it gets warm out (80*+).

[kingmick217]

Just a suggestion,

but if you are not using A/C anyway, dump all that shit in front of your radiator. It just blocks your air flow any way.

better yet hit it all with a heavy duty degreaser, and run a low pressure water stream through it. don't use the rig at the local car wash as it may bend over the cooling fins.

now assuming you've already tried that... pull off the A/C.

[fluidmotion]

yeah ive actually been looking into pulling out the condenser to give more airflow to the radiator. i just gotta call a shop up and see about getting the refrigerent drained before i go tearing things apart. i will most likely leave the compressor in and down the road just convert it to OBA. Im also looking at possibly stepping up the radiator size and cutting to make room for the larger one. but for now ill just take out the condenser and see how that helps.

[kingmick217]

cut the hose and it will evacuate itself.

[dannnthemann]

Originally Posted by kingmick217

cut the hose and it will evacuate itself.

X2

[In the open]

What about a larger oil pan
dry sump oil system
louvers in the hood
full length headers

[fluidmotion]

Originally Posted by In the open

What about a larger oil pan
dry sump oil system
louvers in the hood
full length headers

i think a larger oil pan would kill my clearance with everything under there, esspecially when i link the front (depending on why style i go with) i put lebaron hood vents in the hood last summer to help and they do some, the header im running right now is a gibson, not exactly sure if it would be considered full length tho. ive never heard of the dry sump oil system, got any links on that by chance?

Originally Posted by kingmick217

cut the hose and it will evacuate itself.

Originally Posted by dannnthemann

X2

ive never delt with the refrigerant before, from what ive heard your not suppose to just let it go into the air. should i need to worry about it getting on my skin or anything like that?

[kingmick217]

Originally Posted by fluidmotion

ive never delt with the refrigerant before, from what ive heard your not suppose to just let it go into the air. should i need to worry about it getting on my skin or anything like that?

Do it outside,
Don't do it in front of a bunch of greenies,
and don't breathe too deeply while doing it...

It's supposedly bad for the O-zone or something, I say bring on the global warming... It's too cold anyway.

[4x401cj]

With the temps your talking about (200-240), I can tell you that an oil cooler isn`t going to make much difference. I run a 4 pass cooler on my 401 and don`t see much in temp drop from when I was running without it..

[fluidmotion]

yeah so ive decided to look into a larger radiator, possibly a 4 core, and modifiying everything to fit it. with of course getting rid of the condenser.