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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Member # 49641
Location: Farmington
Posts: 53
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Powdering the Cap...
I still have the D35 in the rear of my heep. I know.... I know. Just stop. It has a lot of free or "friend" seller parts in it (4340 30 splines, ARB, trussed bla bla bla...) This is my question that nobody on any other board has been able to answer with a solution besides change your rear...
Depending on how hard I wheel directly effects just one of the u-joint caps and its roller bearings. I have learned when I hear the "squeek squeek' sound under the Jeep just pull over and change out the (diff end) u-joint. When you pull the drive shaft and pull the u-joint cap off the roller bearings are only powder and metal chunks. It is only on one bearing cap and it is always the cap in the diff yoak. I have checked the axle for straightness and it's spot on. No warpage in the pumpkin. I have.... 1. Changed the yoak (3) times 2. I have u-bolts and not straps. 3. Changed from the slip yoak to the SYE No other cap does this. Could it be... 1. Slightly bent frame 2. 4.88 gears and too much torque 3. 4.88 gears, 35" tires but yet a 4 banger 4. ? It's really frusterating. I have been to "U-Joint" in Albuquerque NM, and talked with the techs there and they have no clue. Please don't say "switch out the axle" I know that. Until some money or a raise comes along then no new or used axle will be albe to find it's way under the Jeep. Until then I would like to solve this u-joint problem. Thanks EK
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The Jeep may rise again...one day. Last edited by El Kabong; 07-29-2007 at 10:22 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Member # 70509
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 1,198
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1) Check the driveshaft u-joints for 'in phase'
2) Check the driveshaft for 'true' 3) Check the driveline angles 4) Check the trans mount
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"In the end...It's all Hack." |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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1:this has nothing to do with the rear end
2: are you fawkin up the u joint when installing? actually pretty common 3: is your driveshaft binding when you lay into it? 4.88's aren't too much but will cause more axle wrap than 3.08's 4: refer to number 2 5: number 2....... if you break one needle installing it will grind the rest into powder.
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Kevin [URL="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=567624"]My build thread[/URL] Killed the S-10 n2 jeeps now |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Member # 42446
Location: North Shore Oahu
Posts: 108
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how hard are you torquing down on the ubolts? just by design you can overtighten them. straps on the other hand wont allow this to happen. after stretching/breaking ubolts offroad, often the tendancy is to really crank down on them as this makes one feel more secure. the cap will deform just enough to cause binding inside. its a remote chance but ive done it myself.
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Member # 49641
Location: Farmington
Posts: 53
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Quote:
Come to think of it I do go freaking tight. I actually had grade 9 ubolts made with matching hardware. I tighten it enough to actually move the Jeep forward. I never thought about this. Is there a yoak that I can put on maybe that's bigger with larger, more stout caps? EK
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The Jeep may rise again...one day. |
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