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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Member # 89925
Location: Bricktucky, NJ
Posts: 255
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CJ5 SOA Build
after one day i got the rear done
i took out the bottom smallest leaf to try to get lower than the old 4" BDS SUA springs drive shaft is to short with the springs at full droop. any suggestions what i should do if i go with a new cv drive shaft i have the 1980 dana 300 i was told the output shaft is weak and jb conversions makes a stronger one but its only for the 81 and up dana 300's also any suggestions on bumpstops or should i just use the originals |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2000
Member # 1792
Location: Parachute,CO
Posts: 2,359
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Did you stretch the WB at all?Looks like your going to be pretty tall.Is there any weight on the axle now?I would move your rear hanger forward a little.It will help lower it a little.I moved the hanger forward by putting the rear bolt in the front hole,then welded it on the frame also.
As far as the driveshaft,you can add a limiting strap to the diff.This will keep the diff from dropping too far but still allow the axle to articulate.
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CJJuggy.FI406/465/205/D60/14bolt FF on 39.5 Swampers.Kids 70Jeepster fullwidth on 34/9.50 swampers. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Member # 70509
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 1,198
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Get rid of the 4" lift springs, ditch the long shackles. Run a stock (or 1") spring and 3/4" shackles (common OEM aftermarket replacements). That'll move the rear axle back a bit. You are planning on running a SRS on the the front...Right?
Just a comment: You're doing all this work on what appears to be a stock AMC20 with the 2pc shafts? I'm thinking you also have the stock Dana30? If upgrades are in the near future fine, but the reason most people go with a SOA is to run a big tire. A tire larger than 35", which the Dana30 definitely doesn't like, and the 1pc axle shafts/weak AMC20 tubes isn't gonna like, is asking for more problems. A SOA also opens a whole can of worms and starts to create really issues with a CJ5 in terms of driveability/safety with the narrowtrac axles and short wheelbase. Trail vehicle...Okay if done correctly. Street vehicle...Where you've got to deal with the bluehairs and the soccermoms....
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"In the end...It's all Hack." |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Member # 89925
Location: Bricktucky, NJ
Posts: 255
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those are the stock springs. i used to have 4" bds sua that is why i did the soa horrible ride no flex. and there is no weight on them. i think i am goin to try a limit strap in the center of the diff to stop the driveshaft from ripping out. and yes i am running stock axles but i still got the 4cyl and only live in jersey so the trails are pretty easy i have the superior one piece axles on the way and eventually i will prob go with one tons and a sbc sm465 but first i just want to wheel it again before the summer is over.
thanks for all the help it will be rolling on all fours buy tonight |
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#6 (permalink) |
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AZUndertaker
Join Date: Apr 2007
Member # 89449
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 745
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You will find that you need a traction bar of some sort. I did this same thing to my CJ7 for the same reason it now rides much better but I did have alot of spring wrap on the rear axle causing the jeep to bounce reallt bad. this is a good way to brake axles and other stuff.
I built a single torque bar to control the springwrap. it works very well no more bouncing.
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