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Old 10-09-2007, 09:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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HP Dana 30????

OKAY im thinkin to go HP dana 30 without the disconnect into my 90' YJ. I've been looking forever and i need to know will swapping the front axle totally eliminate the disconnect and I can just straight pull out all the vacuum lines or will i have to do something with the t-case (because this is where the lines all meet!)? Also would chromo TJ shafts swap into the XJ Dana 30 (i want their U-Joint)? Im im a newbee so ANY INFO WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

thanks
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Old 10-09-2007, 09:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'm pretty sure the t-case just activates the vacum setup, if your axles is non vacum, no changes should be needed to the t-case.
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Old 10-10-2007, 03:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Yep, the TJ shafts will work in an a non-disco XJ. If you have a disco housing you have to fab up some sort of seal on the long side. I think warn makes one that just slides into the inner end of the tube.
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Old 10-10-2007, 04:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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awesome i think thats what im going to go with then.

Do you guys think that chromo 30 spline shafts for the HP dana 30 and my ford 8.8 31 spline rear would hold up to 36x13.5 Iroks? I live in the northwest (west WA), not a lotta rocks and im kinda more into slow and steady then havin a heavy right foot. Im thinkin the 30 for the "narrowness" factor and its easy aftermarket support. JUST would i be safe runnin those tires?
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Old 10-10-2007, 05:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I ran a fully built HPD30 front axle in my YJ for some time. I installed everything you can buy on the market for this thing. I even installed the WARN fron Hub kit.
Warn inner chro shafts(one piece on right hand side. Did away with the vacumn thing)
Larger 760x ujoints
chro outer stub shafts
4.56 gears
Detroit easy locker
36 inch TSL SX
4:1 t-case
stock 4.0 engine
stock 5 speed AX-15
And i end up breaking my rear detroit locker first. Just make sure that when you are on the gas, tires are pointed straight. If you do a full lock right or left turn with gas, that is when you break stuff. Usually its the U-joint which inturn takes out your axle ears, then upper and lower ball joint(been there and done that on stock front axles.

Just remember you are pushin it already.
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Old 10-10-2007, 08:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I wouldnt upgrade to the 30. Try a 44, those 36's arent going to last long on that little guy. I just dumped my 30-it was running 35's on cromo shafts and i didnt have a problem. Im going to throw in a waggy 44.
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Old 10-10-2007, 11:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Remember to pull the inner bearing at the disconnect housing if you're going to run alloy shafts. Thay are generally cut from larger, D44 stock so they are too large for the stock bearing.
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Old 10-11-2007, 12:56 AM   #8 (permalink)
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that hi pinion 30 is freakishly strong. there is a guy in my club running 35 boggers on an hp 30 with the chromos. i dont think that he has broken them
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Old 10-11-2007, 07:45 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Isn't your 90 YJ axle high pinion already? why would you do to the trouble to swap in an XJ axle? Just swap in some one-piece alloy axles into yours, install the seal at the center chunk, and block off the disconnect housing.

I'm running an old XJ disconnect housing in my TJ. I got the kit out of a Warn from axle kit (all D30 axle sets come with it, some TJ guys should have an extra for you). You can see the plate here:




If you're not running reduction gears, the front axle will last quite a while, especially if you run 30 spline axles. But you always have to 'be easy'. More so if it's a 4.0. And that sucks.
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Old 10-11-2007, 11:29 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcoplin View Post
Isn't your 90 YJ axle high pinion already? why would you do to the trouble to swap in an XJ axle? Just swap in some one-piece alloy axles into yours, install the seal at the center chunk, and block off the disconnect housing.

I'm running an old XJ disconnect housing in my TJ. I got the kit out of a Warn from axle kit (all D30 axle sets come with it, some TJ guys should have an extra for you). You can see the plate here:




If you're not running reduction gears, the front axle will last quite a while, especially if you run 30 spline axles. But you always have to 'be easy'. More so if it's a 4.0. And that sucks.

x2

The inner seals you will need for the passenger side are national seal numbers
471354 OR 471763 depending on tube thickness. Just use tj shafts and make or buy a block off plate, plug a vacuum line line or two.

Sure the disconect housing may not quite as strong, but I can't say I've seen to much problem with.

Personally I haven't seen a lot of failure in 27 spline shafts, so I'm not sold on the 30 spline upgrades. The most common failure are in the outer or spitting a main cap off.

Some one else above mentioned a 44...not much of an upgrade for the money. Milk you 30 as long as can then go 60. There is nothing in between worth the money it cost.
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Old 10-11-2007, 11:53 AM   #11 (permalink)
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x2
Some one else above mentioned a 44...not much of an upgrade for the money. Milk you 30 as long as can then go 60. There is nothing in between worth the money it cost.
that what im thinkin, START SMALL and with this then with time when my moneys right and my mechanic confidence goes up then GO BIG with 60's.
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Old 10-11-2007, 11:56 AM   #12 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=pcoplin;7350299]Isn't your 90 YJ axle high pinion already? why would you do to the trouble to swap in an XJ axle? Just swap in some one-piece alloy axles into yours, install the seal at the center chunk, and block off the disconnect housing.
QUOTE]

i was thinkin that, but right now, the jeeps my daily driver and i'd much rather have an axle on a bench to work on and dump money into then have it under my YJ that i need to drive to work the next day or whatever, but thats just me.
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Old 10-11-2007, 11:58 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I wouldnt upgrade to the 30. Try a 44, those 36's arent going to last long on that little guy. I just dumped my 30-it was running 35's on cromo shafts and i didnt have a problem. Im going to throw in a waggy 44.
so your sayin 35's went good though right? what were their widths? Im thinkin less wide maybe TSL's OR whatever 36" has the 12.5 width, so no IROK .
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Old 10-11-2007, 12:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I also agree that if you have a HP30 and on a budget, then build it, not a 44. A 44 is a waste of money to build because the strength advantages just aren't there and don't out weigh the cost of the axle build.

I ran a HP30 in my 95 YJ for years without issues and this was before the 30 spline upgrades. I used the Warn axles inner and outer, Warn Hub kit, Det. EZ-Locker w/ 4.56 r&p. Oh, and I also ran a set 37" Boggers mounted to 15x10 steel beadlocks (it was a real light weight set-up). If that's not bad enough, I had a 4 to 1 Klune-V in it as well to double the breaking %. Just one thing though, I only broke 2 u-joints (stock Spicer, old style), and the little straps and bolts on the yoke for the driveline once, then I switched to u-bolt straps. Of course after 6 to 7 years of wheeling on that axle set-up, we finally pulled the front cover off to inspect the r&p and the pinion had about 4 or 5 teeth missing (yes, it was really that long). I wheeled in So Cal at the Hammers for almost 3 straight years before moving back up here to Redding, so it got plenty of abuse. And yes, my right foot has been this large since birth, so that didn't help matters.

The point is, a built HP30 holds up fine when compared to a 44. The only real difference is the r&p itself. Through the years of wheeling I've seen plenty 44's break stuff, usually u-joints that kill the shafts. HP30's do about the same thing.

Notice that I've mentioned HP30's, not LP30's. That's because a HP axle is stronger in the front of a rig than a LP. And of course, LP's are stronger in the rear than HP's. Choosing an axle to build/use isn't just about the number size, ie;30,44,60, but also how the housing is built. A HP30 is a good axle for what it is and for a budget build. After doing all the building of not just personal rigs but customers as well, I would suggest using the 30 and saving money. Once you're ready, then build a 60 or larger. The one thing that I wish I had done with my 30 was to use a nicer u-joint. The shafts never gave me a problem, the u-joints did. Easy fix, but they can take out a shaft when they blow.
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Old 10-11-2007, 06:33 PM   #15 (permalink)
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yeah im thinkin to go CTM joints in the HP30, even though pricey, but i know it'll be worth it. thanks a lot for your info, i think im ready to get started.
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Old 10-11-2007, 06:38 PM   #16 (permalink)
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i think you should just run the damn 30 until it breaks. I think i might leave my dana 30 alone or switch to a 9 inch front so it matches my currie rear.
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