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Old 12-03-2007, 02:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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resetting Proportioning valve for CJ7

I have an 86 Cj7 that i was going to convert to Yj power booster and E350 MC but when talking to parts mike and describing my problem he automatically brought up the proportioning valve.

The problem

The rear brakes actuate before the front.
The front calipers wont hold until the fourth pump.
If on the fourth pump you let off the pedal, the pedal goes right back down to the ground on the next pump.
It does hold pressure though when you do not let off the pedal

The attempted fixes

I changed the MC and rear wheel cylinders.
Bench bled MC
checked to make sure that the calipers retract fully
adjusted shoes in rear
Bled system with hand vacum and without
3 bottles later of brake fluid and I still have the same problem

My question is how do you test a proportioning valve. Do you know if the wires going into the top of the proprtioning valve are an input or output. I get a continuity signal from the terminal connections on the valve to ground only when I let off the brakes. The brass plunger on the front of the valve does go in and out. I'm hesitant to go with the YJ stuff when I might Have an existing issue that I should clear up before I make the swap. Plus the valve new is 130$ which could pay for my swap if it does not need to be swapped out. Parts mike said there is a reset procedure for that valve. Anyone know the procedure

The calipers are only half ton chevy's from a 1985 blazer and the rear drums on my 12 bolt are 11" which I think my model 20 was. Since the axles are full width I did have to add about 30 total inches to my lines.
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Old 12-03-2007, 07:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Since your problem is at the front, are your bleeder valves at the top of the calipers?
Travis..
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Old 12-04-2007, 08:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
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what are you talking about?
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Old 12-04-2007, 10:57 AM   #4 (permalink)
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what are you talking about?
What do you mean what am I talking about? I've heard some stupid shit that people have done to their brakes over the years on here. I don't know what your skill level is either. You have the Jeep in front of you, I don't.
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Old 12-04-2007, 11:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I'll attempt a better answer for you. If your brakes worked fine before you did the swap, something you did is wrong. You may also have a malfunctioning metering valve (if equipped), this holds off the front pressure until the rear brakes have some pressure. The best way to deal with a brake swap is to do away with the stock combination valve and install an adjustable prop valve in the rear line. You will not have a brake warning light this way, but that light won't come on until you apply the brakes anyway. By then you know you have a problem with or without the light. Do away with your stock combo valve and any other valves in the lines when you install the adjustable valve and you should be good. This way you can dial in your brakes correctly, not rely on factory parts that were a compromise to begin with.
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Old 12-04-2007, 11:57 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I havent heard of a reset procedure other than pulling it apart and recentering the valve. Just take it part, give it a good cleaning, check the o-rings, and put it back together. Maybe the fron section is clogged or something.

Im not sure what was going on above but just in case... Crashnzuk was refering to the bleeders on the calipers needing to be facing up. If you put the calipers on the wrong side with the bleeder facing down you can get spongy brakes because its very hard to get the air out. Ignore if you know this but i couldnt tell from your response.

This PDF from MPbrakes.com has a great troubleshooting section in the back and some exploded views of the proportioning unit. Its the last 15 pages or so.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/uploads/cont...%20catalog.pdf
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Old 12-04-2007, 12:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for that reply, the last one was like oh fuck I am so not in the mood to deal with people that are as stupid as I am.

I here you though and from researching I am going to do the swap with the dual diaphram YJ booster and the 1986 E350 MC.

So with the adjustable proportioning valve installed in the rear line do I directly connect the line from the from MC to the front brakes if I go that route.

If other people are reading this another thread states that if you used a MC from a corvette you do need another residual valve after the adjustable proportioning valve if the vehicle is disk / drum. The E350 from what I read will work with either the CJ or yj proportioning valve. The proportioning valve on the yj unit i am going to pick up is right by the MC and not on the frame depending on funds I might try to use this instead of the adjustable valve.

Does anyone know of an adjustable push rod for the power booster from what I have read it is required becasue the throw on the CJ pedal is different from the YJ. If anyone has done the E350 swap do you know how many inches of travel the pushrod needs to come out of the power booster to fully actuate the E350 MC.

The issue with the proportioning valve is wierd. Some guys say that the plunger behind the rubber boot should not come out at all, and other people say if it does not come out you have a problem. Other threads say that the plunger needs to be in when bleeding the rears and others say pull it out. Some people say to bleed the fronts first and others the rear. Some people even posted that a BFH will reset it if you hit the brake pedal hard enough. Usually when I search I find an answer that leads me in the right direction but in this case its leading me away entirely. A lot of people have done the YJ /E350 swap with good results so I am going to just cut my loses on buying the 130$ stock CJ MC and I am going to burn the valve when I pull it out.

Partsmike said he is going to have the Yj power booster to firewall bracket machined. That would work out great cause most people doing the swap use the clevis to the pedal and the bracket and buy a new power booster and E350 MC.
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Old 12-04-2007, 12:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
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ohhhh I get it people really are that stupid. Now his response makes sense.

Thanks for the link
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Old 12-04-2007, 01:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
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There are answers to a couple of your questions in that pdf like they suggest you keep a metering valve to the front when running a rear adjustable prop valve.

The corvette master comes in disc/disc and disc/drum and of course power/manual of each.

The combination block can be found in a disc/drum version and also a disc/disc

I think the manual says to pull that little plunger tip outward when bleeding but my book is at home so i am probably just adding tot he pile of missinformation you are finding

Really though that pdf and just calling MP brakes is probably your best bet, i hear they are very helpful.

I run disc/disc, power corvette disc/disc, cj booster, combo valve with rear Oring removed. Stops pretty good, but with a 401, automatic, and lots of gears its hard to make it stay still on a downhill
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Old 12-04-2007, 03:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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That link is fugging great.

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Old 12-04-2007, 05:58 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by retardatwork View Post
ohhhh I get it people really are that stupid. Now his response makes sense.

Thanks for the link
Yes they are! Sometimes it's hard to tell. If your brakes were good before, I think getting them bled right will be the hot ticket. A master that is a shade too small will only result in slightly more pedal travel, not 4 pumps and still no pedal. I would screw with it more and figure it out before I spent any more money on hard parts. You should be able to get a stable hard pedal, if you can't, I doubt more parts are gonna fix it (assuming everything worked correctly before the swap).
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