Waggy 44 in the front of SOA CJ??? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 01-06-2008, 02:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Waggy 44 in the front of SOA CJ???

I've changed the rear out to a 9" ford and I'm in the process of replacing the front with a Waggy D44. This is on my SOA CJ7. I fabbed up the out board spring mounts and did a shackle reversal and had to modify the front housing to be able to mount the spring on top of the housing instead of under it.
Now I'm having the drag link and tie rod contacting the spring pack on the under side of the spring on the passengers side. All steering components are stock except the pitman arm that is a 4" drop CJ pitman arm.
Front Caster angle is set at 6 deg.
The contact isn't really bad but it gets worse when the steering is turned close to full lock.
This waggy housing doesn't have flat top knuckles, and from what I can see High steer would run into the center of the springs. So that's not an option.
I'm considering two options:
1. To build some 1/2" lift blocks to go between the springs and housing. this should get me the necessary clearance.
Or
2. I could bend the tie rod just a slight bit to get the clearance I need.
The bend would be very slight but I'm concerned it will weaken the tie rod.
So What do you think I should do? I'll even consider other options.
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Old 01-07-2008, 01:30 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You may also consider bending the pittman arm.
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Old 01-07-2008, 04:34 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Move this to non hardcore and search high steer before you get flamed!
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Old 01-07-2008, 04:42 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Old 01-07-2008, 11:48 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Flat top knuckles, Hi steer w/ a spacer under the arms, & 5/8" high strength studs. Problem solved.

Last edited by OlBlueCJ7; 01-07-2008 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 01-07-2008, 01:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlBlueCJ7 View Post
Flat top knuckles, Hi steer w/ a spacer under the arms, & 5/8" high strength studs. Problem solved.
TRUE

if you dont want to use the spacer you can get the extra thick Sky arms.
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Old 01-07-2008, 01:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The high steer arms will work. Just use a flat pitman arm.



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Last edited by ho7; 01-07-2008 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 01-07-2008, 05:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info.
As far as getting flamed...flame away I got my flame suit on! This has to do with swapping out a D30 to a D44, going SOA, using different front springs, fabricating outboard mounts, stretching the wheelbase, and a shackle reversal, not exactlly newby shit! Yes I know it's not 4 link, it would be if I had the money but I don't right now.
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Old 01-10-2008, 09:12 AM   #9 (permalink)
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ho7, that tie rod and drag link look awfully close to the spring pack. Maybe it's the camera angle, but are those going to clear when it's twisted up? Are those the Sky arms you're using? They look like they have an offset in them.
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Old 01-10-2008, 10:56 AM   #10 (permalink)
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are those going to clear when it's twisted up?
If they clear at ride height, they'll clear at any point. Keep in mind that as the leaves move, the tie-rod & drag link have to move too.
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Old 01-10-2008, 01:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The tie rod and drag link are still going to move as the suspension cycles and the wheels are turned. If none of it moved, you wouldn't need rod ends and could use just bronze bushings or somethiing. If that drag link is parallel to the ground at ride height, then it's going to get closer to the springs as the passenger side pushes upward. The tie rod is also going to move some as the wheels are turned thanks to the caster angle.

Anyway, I'm doing the same swap right now, a waggy 44 into a CJ with outboarded springs. I picked up some flat tops and had te passenger side milled, drilled, and tapped for a crossover/high steer arm. I did pick up an beefy 3/4 ton y steering setup when I got the outer knuckles (which only have 1 hole on the original arm). This attaches the drag link to the tie rod about 6" in from the knuckle, which should be plenty to clear the spring pack. I'm going to try and run that with my 4" drop pitman arm and see if the geometry works out right (until I can get some money for a good setup anyway). The different diameter tubes, perch heights, and widths makes it just complex enough to not want to bother to do the math on whether it'll work ahead of time. It's a slow project for me lately though, so I'm still in the middle of building the D44 in the garage right now, before getting out in the cold and trying to swing the bitch under there in the cold. Might even take till spring until I get the energy to get it all put together. If you look into doing it this way let me know how it works out. I got the drag link, tie rod, all the ends, etc all in good shape from PNS for dirt cheap, so I think it's worth a shot. If nothing else I've got some good 3/4 ton rod ends to make a new tie rod out of.
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Old 01-10-2008, 01:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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not exactlly newby shit!
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1. To build some 1/2" lift blocks to go between the springs and housing. this should get me the necessary clearance.
No, not newbie shit. Just plain stupid.
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Old 01-10-2008, 02:37 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If they clear at ride height, they'll clear at any point. Keep in mind that as the leaves move, the tie-rod & drag link have to move too.
Wrong answer. As the knuckle rotates, it will carry the tie rod up and down.

edit: Thinking about it, you probably already were considering turning while at ride height. But the spring will get closer as the right side droops.

Last edited by Keith; 01-10-2008 at 02:39 PM.
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