Waggy 44 in the front of SOA CJ??? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

azhayseed · 01-06-2008, 02:55 PM

I've changed the rear out to a 9" ford and I'm in the process of replacing the front with a Waggy D44. This is on my SOA CJ7. I fabbed up the out board spring mounts and did a shackle reversal and had to modify the front housing to be able to mount the spring on top of the housing instead of under it.
Now I'm having the drag link and tie rod contacting the spring pack on the under side of the spring on the passengers side. All steering components are stock except the pitman arm that is a 4" drop CJ pitman arm.
Front Caster angle is set at 6 deg.
The contact isn't really bad but it gets worse when the steering is turned close to full lock.
This waggy housing doesn't have flat top knuckles, and from what I can see High steer would run into the center of the springs. So that's not an option.
I'm considering two options:
1. To build some 1/2" lift blocks to go between the springs and housing. this should get me the necessary clearance.
Or
2. I could bend the tie rod just a slight bit to get the clearance I need.
The bend would be very slight but I'm concerned it will weaken the tie rod.
So What do you think I should do? I'll even consider other options.

dimichele · 01-07-2008, 01:30 AM

You may also consider bending the pittman arm.

LT1CJ · 01-07-2008, 04:34 AM

Move this to non hardcore and search high steer before you get flamed!

gna · 01-07-2008, 04:42 AM

X2

OlBlueCJ7 · 01-07-2008, 11:48 AM

Flat top knuckles, Hi steer w/ a spacer under the arms, & 5/8" high strength studs. Problem solved.

Xjcrawler736 · 01-07-2008, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OlBlueCJ7

Flat top knuckles, Hi steer w/ a spacer under the arms, & 5/8" high strength studs. Problem solved.

TRUE

if you dont want to use the spacer you can get the extra thick Sky arms.

ho7 · 01-07-2008, 01:36 PM

The high steer arms will work. Just use a flat pitman arm.

azhayseed · 01-07-2008, 05:04 PM

Thanks for the info.
As far as getting flamed...flame away I got my flame suit on! This has to do with swapping out a D30 to a D44, going SOA, using different front springs, fabricating outboard mounts, stretching the wheelbase, and a shackle reversal, not exactlly newby shit! Yes I know it's not 4 link, it would be if I had the money but I don't right now.

jwjeep1 · 01-10-2008, 09:12 AM

ho7, that tie rod and drag link look awfully close to the spring pack. Maybe it's the camera angle, but are those going to clear when it's twisted up? Are those the Sky arms you're using? They look like they have an offset in them.

OlBlueCJ7 · 01-10-2008, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwjeep1

are those going to clear when it's twisted up?

If they clear at ride height, they'll clear at any point. Keep in mind that as the leaves move, the tie-rod & drag link have to move too.

jwjeep1 · 01-10-2008, 01:19 PM

The tie rod and drag link are still going to move as the suspension cycles and the wheels are turned. If none of it moved, you wouldn't need rod ends and could use just bronze bushings or somethiing. If that drag link is parallel to the ground at ride height, then it's going to get closer to the springs as the passenger side pushes upward. The tie rod is also going to move some as the wheels are turned thanks to the caster angle.

Anyway, I'm doing the same swap right now, a waggy 44 into a CJ with outboarded springs. I picked up some flat tops and had te passenger side milled, drilled, and tapped for a crossover/high steer arm. I did pick up an beefy 3/4 ton y steering setup when I got the outer knuckles (which only have 1 hole on the original arm). This attaches the drag link to the tie rod about 6" in from the knuckle, which should be plenty to clear the spring pack. I'm going to try and run that with my 4" drop pitman arm and see if the geometry works out right (until I can get some money for a good setup anyway). The different diameter tubes, perch heights, and widths makes it just complex enough to not want to bother to do the math on whether it'll work ahead of time. It's a slow project for me lately though, so I'm still in the middle of building the D44 in the garage right now, before getting out in the cold and trying to swing the bitch under there in the cold. Might even take till spring until I get the energy to get it all put together. If you look into doing it this way let me know how it works out. I got the drag link, tie rod, all the ends, etc all in good shape from PNS for dirt cheap, so I think it's worth a shot. If nothing else I've got some good 3/4 ton rod ends to make a new tie rod out of.

cj5.5 · 01-10-2008, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azhayseed

not exactlly newby shit!

Quote:

Originally Posted by azhayseed

1. To build some 1/2" lift blocks to go between the springs and housing. this should get me the necessary clearance.

No, not newbie shit. Just plain stupid.

Keith · 01-10-2008, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OlBlueCJ7

If they clear at ride height, they'll clear at any point. Keep in mind that as the leaves move, the tie-rod & drag link have to move too.

Wrong answer. As the knuckle rotates, it will carry the tie rod up and down.

edit: Thinking about it, you probably already were considering turning while at ride height. But the spring will get closer as the right side droops.

01-06-2008, 02:55 PM	#1 (permalink)
azhayseed AZUndertaker Join Date: Apr 2007 Member # 89449 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 745	Waggy 44 in the front of SOA CJ??? I've changed the rear out to a 9" ford and I'm in the process of replacing the front with a Waggy D44. This is on my SOA CJ7. I fabbed up the out board spring mounts and did a shackle reversal and had to modify the front housing to be able to mount the spring on top of the housing instead of under it. Now I'm having the drag link and tie rod contacting the spring pack on the under side of the spring on the passengers side. All steering components are stock except the pitman arm that is a 4" drop CJ pitman arm. Front Caster angle is set at 6 deg. The contact isn't really bad but it gets worse when the steering is turned close to full lock. This waggy housing doesn't have flat top knuckles, and from what I can see High steer would run into the center of the springs. So that's not an option. I'm considering two options: 1. To build some 1/2" lift blocks to go between the springs and housing. this should get me the necessary clearance. Or 2. I could bend the tie rod just a slight bit to get the clearance I need. The bend would be very slight but I'm concerned it will weaken the tie rod. So What do you think I should do? I'll even consider other options. __________________ John Brock Rocking J Offroad Race Team/ Team Crossedup #4431 Thanks to our sponsors: Rocking J Offroad, LLC. Crossedup Customs ADS Racing Shocks Ruffstuff Specialties Applied Hydrographics Howe Preformance Steering JRat offroad/ Sixty9 Axle Reid Racing Letzroll Off Road Race Team Give these business your support so they can support us!

01-07-2008, 11:48 AM	#5 (permalink)
OlBlueCJ7 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Member # 24091 Location: Northern Colorado Posts: 850	Flat top knuckles, Hi steer w/ a spacer under the arms, & 5/8" high strength studs. Problem solved. Last edited by OlBlueCJ7; 01-07-2008 at 11:48 AM.

01-07-2008, 01:36 PM	#7 (permalink)
ho7 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Member # 6222 Location: Greensboro, NC Posts: 336	The high steer arms will work. Just use a flat pitman arm. __________________ YJ on 39" Iroks Last edited by ho7; 01-07-2008 at 01:37 PM.

01-07-2008, 05:04 PM	#8 (permalink)
azhayseed AZUndertaker Join Date: Apr 2007 Member # 89449 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 745	Thanks for the info. As far as getting flamed...flame away I got my flame suit on! This has to do with swapping out a D30 to a D44, going SOA, using different front springs, fabricating outboard mounts, stretching the wheelbase, and a shackle reversal, not exactlly newby shit! Yes I know it's not 4 link, it would be if I had the money but I don't right now. __________________ John Brock Rocking J Offroad Race Team/ Team Crossedup #4431 Thanks to our sponsors: Rocking J Offroad, LLC. Crossedup Customs ADS Racing Shocks Ruffstuff Specialties Applied Hydrographics Howe Preformance Steering JRat offroad/ Sixty9 Axle Reid Racing Letzroll Off Road Race Team Give these business your support so they can support us!

01-10-2008, 09:12 AM	#9 (permalink)
jwjeep1 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Member # 17777 Location: Rifle, CO Posts: 177	ho7, that tie rod and drag link look awfully close to the spring pack. Maybe it's the camera angle, but are those going to clear when it's twisted up? Are those the Sky arms you're using? They look like they have an offset in them. __________________ Originally Posted by rokcrwlrtj just remember, it will stay a jeep thing till all that shit breaks.

01-07-2008, 01:30 AM	#2 (permalink)
dimichele Wheeler Join Date: Aug 2006 Member # 77825 Location: in a van down by the river Posts: 311	You may also consider bending the pittman arm.

01-07-2008, 04:34 AM	#3 (permalink)
LT1CJ Wheeler Join Date: Jan 2005 Member # 41014 Location: NY Posts: 269	Move this to non hardcore and search high steer before you get flamed!

01-07-2008, 04:42 AM	#4 (permalink)
gna Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Member # 15498 Location: new york/ upstate Posts: 335	X2

01-10-2008, 01:19 PM	#11 (permalink)
jwjeep1 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Member # 17777 Location: Rifle, CO Posts: 177	The tie rod and drag link are still going to move as the suspension cycles and the wheels are turned. If none of it moved, you wouldn't need rod ends and could use just bronze bushings or somethiing. If that drag link is parallel to the ground at ride height, then it's going to get closer to the springs as the passenger side pushes upward. The tie rod is also going to move some as the wheels are turned thanks to the caster angle. Anyway, I'm doing the same swap right now, a waggy 44 into a CJ with outboarded springs. I picked up some flat tops and had te passenger side milled, drilled, and tapped for a crossover/high steer arm. I did pick up an beefy 3/4 ton y steering setup when I got the outer knuckles (which only have 1 hole on the original arm). This attaches the drag link to the tie rod about 6" in from the knuckle, which should be plenty to clear the spring pack. I'm going to try and run that with my 4" drop pitman arm and see if the geometry works out right (until I can get some money for a good setup anyway). The different diameter tubes, perch heights, and widths makes it just complex enough to not want to bother to do the math on whether it'll work ahead of time. It's a slow project for me lately though, so I'm still in the middle of building the D44 in the garage right now, before getting out in the cold and trying to swing the bitch under there in the cold. Might even take till spring until I get the energy to get it all put together. If you look into doing it this way let me know how it works out. I got the drag link, tie rod, all the ends, etc all in good shape from PNS for dirt cheap, so I think it's worth a shot. If nothing else I've got some good 3/4 ton rod ends to make a new tie rod out of. __________________ Originally Posted by rokcrwlrtj just remember, it will stay a jeep thing till all that shit breaks.

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