hydro assist/steering box questions - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

microtus · 03-30-2008, 08:17 AM

No replies in general 4x4 so I moved it here.

Vehicle is a 98 TJ with Dynatrac 60's on 37's. The steering box was rebuilt, drilled and tapped for hydro assist. I have not yet done any modifications to the power steering pump.

I mounted the 1 3/4" ram from the differential cover to the tie rod using a lincoln 120v wire feed, hooked up all connections, refilled and bled the system. More on that in a minute.

With the front axle still on jack stands I ran into the following issues. When I turn the steering wheel and approach full left or right the wheels will kick just before full lock. By kick I mean it appears that the ram abruptly pushes the tie rod for the last 5 degrees or so of throw. Is this normal for a hydro assist system? The steering box also showed a slow leak from the center bolt on top of the box.

Prior to ordering the ram I measured the throw of the tie rod from steering stop to steering stop at 6 7/8". This measurement was done without the drag link attached to the steering box. Installed was an 8" ram with internal stops added to limit the throw. When I did the install and test today it became apparent that the steering box actually had less throw than the 6 7/8". I have roughly 1/4-1/2" of travel left before reaching the steering stops on the knuckle. I confirmed the throw limitations of the steering box by disconnecting the ram.

So now the Homer question. Regarding the small leak at the center adjuster on top. Could this be caused by the ram trying to push the steering box beyond its rotational limits? If, in the chance I didn't screw up the box, is their anything to worry about other than just back out the center bolt, toss some teflon tape on the threads and see if it stops the leak? I know the center allen screw is for adjustment and would rather not make matters worse.

As for the 120v wire feed welder. Removing the jackstands, putting the tires on the ground and turning the steering wheel promptly tore the welds and some of the base metal off of the cover. I have a panhard mount bracket from Polyperformance on the axle and think I may just turn the ram around and mount it to that instead.

cliff notes:

Is the sudden push at the end of the stroke normal for hydro assist?

Did I screw up the steering box with the extra throw of the ram?

Any issues to worry about in removing the center bolt on top of the box to try and fix a leak?
__________________

Bump&Grind · 03-30-2008, 10:05 AM

The steering box I'm no pro but what could it hurt to try the free fix of teflon tape?

The ram is where I have a bit of experience, I would say there is still just a bit of air in the ram itself. That jump sounds like something compressing a bit faster than the ram is moving causing the jump. Chances are I may be wrong but bleeding the ram is free.

Don't use a piddly little mig welder for something that requires that kind of strength. You need to use something with more voltage to get better penetration. If you have to use a 6010 or 6011 rod for the root, grind really clean and cap with that 110 volt machine. If you have access to a larger mig welder that will also work. Make sure you brace the mount really, really well. If the ram rips off it could cause alot of damage. I use a small piece of I-beam, 4 or 6 inch, to mount cylinders. I cut the side flanges down far enough until I can mount to the centre web. Brace that sucker too, I tend to overbuild my stuff but I hate doing the job twice.

microtus · 03-30-2008, 10:16 AM

Hadn't thought about air being in the system to cause the "kick" at the end of the turn. I'll add an additional limiter to the rams throw and put the whole mess back under the Jeep and start from scratch again. I'll seal up the leak at the same time, I was just worried about screwing up the adjuster.

Thanks for the response.

roadwarriorsvt · 03-30-2008, 12:54 PM

If you are worried about removing the adjuster nut, scribe or mark the nut in relationship to the box, then count how many turns it takes to remove it. Wrap the nut with teflon, then screw the nut back to its original location with the same amount of turns.

03-30-2008, 08:17 AM	#1 (permalink)
microtus Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Member # 19251 Location: Dixon, Ca Posts: 842	hydro assist/steering box questions No replies in general 4x4 so I moved it here. Vehicle is a 98 TJ with Dynatrac 60's on 37's. The steering box was rebuilt, drilled and tapped for hydro assist. I have not yet done any modifications to the power steering pump. I mounted the 1 3/4" ram from the differential cover to the tie rod using a lincoln 120v wire feed, hooked up all connections, refilled and bled the system. More on that in a minute. With the front axle still on jack stands I ran into the following issues. When I turn the steering wheel and approach full left or right the wheels will kick just before full lock. By kick I mean it appears that the ram abruptly pushes the tie rod for the last 5 degrees or so of throw. Is this normal for a hydro assist system? The steering box also showed a slow leak from the center bolt on top of the box. Prior to ordering the ram I measured the throw of the tie rod from steering stop to steering stop at 6 7/8". This measurement was done without the drag link attached to the steering box. Installed was an 8" ram with internal stops added to limit the throw. When I did the install and test today it became apparent that the steering box actually had less throw than the 6 7/8". I have roughly 1/4-1/2" of travel left before reaching the steering stops on the knuckle. I confirmed the throw limitations of the steering box by disconnecting the ram. So now the Homer question. Regarding the small leak at the center adjuster on top. Could this be caused by the ram trying to push the steering box beyond its rotational limits? If, in the chance I didn't screw up the box, is their anything to worry about other than just back out the center bolt, toss some teflon tape on the threads and see if it stops the leak? I know the center allen screw is for adjustment and would rather not make matters worse. As for the 120v wire feed welder. Removing the jackstands, putting the tires on the ground and turning the steering wheel promptly tore the welds and some of the base metal off of the cover. I have a panhard mount bracket from Polyperformance on the axle and think I may just turn the ram around and mount it to that instead. cliff notes: Is the sudden push at the end of the stroke normal for hydro assist? Did I screw up the steering box with the extra throw of the ram? Any issues to worry about in removing the center bolt on top of the box to try and fix a leak? __________________ __________________ RIP Dennis Mayer KI6MLD

03-30-2008, 10:16 AM	#3 (permalink)
microtus Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Member # 19251 Location: Dixon, Ca Posts: 842	Hadn't thought about air being in the system to cause the "kick" at the end of the turn. I'll add an additional limiter to the rams throw and put the whole mess back under the Jeep and start from scratch again. I'll seal up the leak at the same time, I was just worried about screwing up the adjuster. Thanks for the response. __________________ RIP Dennis Mayer KI6MLD

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03-30-2008, 10:05 AM	#2 (permalink)
Bump&Grind Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Member # 107843 Location: Winnipeg Posts: 130	The steering box I'm no pro but what could it hurt to try the free fix of teflon tape? The ram is where I have a bit of experience, I would say there is still just a bit of air in the ram itself. That jump sounds like something compressing a bit faster than the ram is moving causing the jump. Chances are I may be wrong but bleeding the ram is free. Don't use a piddly little mig welder for something that requires that kind of strength. You need to use something with more voltage to get better penetration. If you have to use a 6010 or 6011 rod for the root, grind really clean and cap with that 110 volt machine. If you have access to a larger mig welder that will also work. Make sure you brace the mount really, really well. If the ram rips off it could cause alot of damage. I use a small piece of I-beam, 4 or 6 inch, to mount cylinders. I cut the side flanges down far enough until I can mount to the centre web. Brace that sucker too, I tend to overbuild my stuff but I hate doing the job twice.

03-30-2008, 12:54 PM	#4 (permalink)
roadwarriorsvt Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Member # 91009 Location: Wahiawa, HI Posts: 187	If you are worried about removing the adjuster nut, scribe or mark the nut in relationship to the box, then count how many turns it takes to remove it. Wrap the nut with teflon, then screw the nut back to its original location with the same amount of turns.