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Need Help on a jeep YJ SOA...

8K views 22 replies 13 participants last post by  jpfrk2001 
#1 ·
So heres the deal, I have just recently bought a 94 YJ and cant stand not being able to run a tire bigger than 30x9.50, so I want to do an SOA. I was looking into RockyRoad SOAs when I saw a post about them on the hardcore forums and how so many ppl had bad experiences with the company.

Now I am a very good mechanic and am not afraid of a welder :smokin: but I still want to take the easiest/cheapest route possible... cheaper winning out over easier of course. So I am wondering how have yall done it and what would you recommend to me?
 
#2 ·
used stock YJ springs + 1" currie? add-a-leaf
bought cheap perches
fabbed shock mounts
bought drop pitman arm
rotate steering box down to correct geometry
SYE
CV rear
cut notch out of skid plate for front shaft.
new shocks
longer front brake lines
ladder bar in rear, ran hardline and short rubber lines for brakes down that.

Think that was most of it.
 
#4 ·
I'm about to install my SOA in 2 weeks from this weekend. Here's my parts list:

XJ HP D30 and D44 with 4.88s, Detroit in D44
SOLID diff covers for both
M.O.R.E. Steering kit
RE SOA kit w/ 1.5" leaf springs
M.O.R.E. boomerange shackles
M.O.R.E. traction bar
SYE
DS
shocks
5 35x12.50 MTZs
5 1079 ProComp wheels

I think thats everything. Its running me 4-5k

Not the best option for axles but its a father-son project and my dad is footing most of the bill and we got a decent deal on them from a friend.
 
#6 ·
When I did mine, I bought a pair of 4cyl 4.11 axles w/soa perches already on, driveshafts,and ubolts for $300, two rear shocks ($50 ea), a rear brake line ($30?), and a dropped pitman arm ($50) and bolted it all in. My rear driveshaft is a bit longer so I moved the axle back 2" and it doesn't vibe but I did have to hack my rear tub a bit. It can be done extra cheap, or super expensive. It depends on how you want it to come out.
Travis..
 
#7 ·
if you want to get by cheap, SOA isnt always the best way. you can get a 3-4" lift kit for about the same, if not cheaper than what its going to cost you to do a SOA lift THE RIGHT WAY. if you go SOA, you are going to need a SYE, and CV drive shaft. if you go 4" SUA or less you should be able to get by with your stock shaft and slip yoke.
 
#8 · (Edited)
SOA is not cheap. The springs may be cheap, but thats about it. You can HACK it together cheap i supposed.

You will need....

-Springs (stock YJs will work fine to get you by)
-New Shocks, $40 bucks each on average for something decent I wouldn't skimp out on shocks
-Shock Tabs, spring perches, possible u-bolts if you have to cut them $80 for new perches, $30 for new tabs
-CV drive shaft $250
-Slip Yoke Eliminator $280
-Track bar if you decide to run one and can't make it yourself $300
-Extended Brake Lines $100, PLUS you will probably be running new steel lines cause you break them trying to install the extended ones, then new slaves are a possibly too......
-STEERING everybody overlooks this, you will have to run a high steer setup, or maybe you can get away with reversing the tie-rod from under the knuckle and put it on top of the knuckle. If you can't make your own steering that is SAFE, steering kits get expensive quick, and are probably the highest cost/time consuming part of the build. Tera flex makes a cross over kit, as well as some other companies like Currie. Figure a steering setup will cost in the hundreds ($500-700 if you go with a complete kit from M.O.R.E. for example) as well.

My recommendation would be that unless you are going to plan on running a 37"+ tire i would just buy some really good SUA springs like 3.5-4" variety, get some TJ flares, and maybe a 1" BL, no shackle lifts. You can easily fit a 35" tire with that setup, at that point your axle strength will be in question though from the D35. You will still end up with a very capable rig that has a low COG, minimal wheel hop, and extra money left over for things like a roll cage, gears, lockers or whatever.

If you don't take the time to go thru the process and learn about your jeep before hoping right into some of the more advanced builds, you will lack basic skills as a driver, and people will get upset with you when little stupid shit breaks and you don't know what to do or how to fix it. Every man is expected to know his own rig, how it went together, and what its limitations are. Good Luck with your new toy :D
 
#9 ·
Yeah I hear that on learning about a new truck before taking it out, I have been wheelin for several years now. That was in a Nissan 720 though... I have been on this forum and Jeep Unlimited for months now just reading up on stuff. Thanks for the advice, its a big help. I think I have figured out what I'm gonna do. A buddy of mine had a big YJ and I think he totaled it so he has been parting it out. He is gonna sell me some 4" springs for cheap

as far as SYE's I was looking at the Oconee Off Road one for $170, have you heard anything about them? (good/bad)
 
#10 ·
As for the SYE's, I suggest you get a kit that replaces the main shaft with a stronger and larger one as well as a sturdy yoke.

Stay away from the typicall hack and tap jobbers. They work but you have a stock strength shaft. Just depends on how far you want to go with it.

I got the kit from skyjacker and a tom woods CV shaft running 4:1 tcase on a turbo charged inline 6:smokin: My main shaft is a larger 4340 series for the SYE. So I know it shouldn't break(knock. . knock. .)

Right now Im in the planning stage(waiting for a lump sum of cash to hit my account) of doing a SOA in the front and full hydro. This stuff aint cheep and I will do all the work my self including changin out the gears and installing a locker as well as a list of things imaginable!!

So good luck with your junk and have fun!
 
#11 ·
I agree with black sheep, steering gets overlooked, but then again there's no way in hell i'd ever spend $400+ on steering for a dana 30 and well, a drop pitman arm won't do a damn thing. I'm using the JB4x4 bracket at www.jb4x4.com, its low cost crossover, and works great. As for the SYE, go with JB conversions, screw everything else, eh, i guess aa is decent. For perches/ubolts ect. visit www.ruffstuffspecialties.com, good pricing and solid products.
 
#13 ·
he want to get by cheap. RE is pretty much top of the line.

get a superlift, tuff country, or rough country, lift kit. they are all pretty cheap kits.
 
#15 ·
I think that cheap is an awful word. Anything cheap is typically crap and will be replaced in a year. So, call it $400 this year and $400 next year and you have $800 plus freight (which is expensive nowadays). I would bypass cheap and go right for inexpensive. A 4" RE SUA kit with basic shocks and most of what you need to run 33-35" tires can be had for $800-$900. Throw in some TJ flares and you have the makings of a capable vehicle.

I hate to see a guy throw good money away and settle for something that is going to drive like crap. It is enough to make a guy cry knowing that a cheap kit he had to have is garbage and no longer fun to wheel.

Spend your money once. Rubicon Express is a great way to go.
 
#16 ·
So heres the deal, I have just recently bought a 94 YJ and cant stand not being able to run a tire bigger than 30x9.50...

Now I am a very good mechanic and am not afraid of a welder :smokin: but I still want to take the easiest/cheapest route possible... cheaper winning out over easier of course. So I am wondering how have yall done it and what would you recommend to me?
Easiest, cheapest route to bigger tires. Besides, you're going to end up doing it sooner or later anyway.

 
#18 ·
I would not say the SOA kits are complete. A drop pitman arm on an SOA YJ still gives bad bumpsteer. Going SOA you will want at least the Tera Hi Steer Knuckle set up. I found it to be perfect on my personal YJ. No more bumpsteer at all.
 
#20 ·
If you want, I will be replacing my RE 4.5 Extreem duty springs on my YJ. I will sell them to you on the cheep. Im currently doing a SOA set up on my Jeep. I even got a thread on it in non-hardcore.

But doing any suspension lift on any jeep using quality stuff will be pricey. RE is the best and I hear good things on BDS.

I have broke leaves before in crappy packs(Procomp sucks). I was lucky it wasn't a main.
 
#23 ·
Yea, with alot of body mods. 1: do a front high line 2: cut out the rear inner fender and relocate at the top of the outer fender and cut the outer fender. 3: modify the rear C down bar of the roll bar(cut out the extra tubing)
 
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