Has anyone built a swaybar with this concept in mind? Bascially cut the stock swaybar in half. Find a piece of strong tubing (sleve) with the exact inner diameter of swaybar. Insert cut ends of swaybar in tube sleve. Weld one side of the tube sleve to swaybar. Drill hole through both swaybar and sleve on the non-welded side of the swaybar. This way you can merely insert a pin to lock it and pull the pin and the bar should rotate in the middle. I saw an aftermarket product quite a while back that did the same thing, but have never heard any thing about it. My main concern would be whether the weld would have a negative impact on the swaybar (will the weld break under slight twisting). See crappy pic below if this doesn't make sense . Lets here some opinions/ideas. This is on a TJ by the way (not that it would really make a big difference).
Couldn't you just push down on one side of the suspension to cycle it a little bit. Seems like that would make it a little easier. Do you think I'm better off just drilling a hole in the lower sway bar bolt and adding a cotter pin?
i would think that it would also change the stiffness of the sway bar if the welding held up. its a lot easier to twist a longer bar, than two short ones... but maybe it won't make a difference.. since there is still the same amount of material total.. i was thinking of doing a piece of square material, with a square sleeve that slid back and forth that was spring loaded, so if it wasn't level, it would pop into postion once you started moving and it became level..
i used the jks quick disconnects and they work great, but sometimes are hard to reconnect if the jeep isn't close to level.
do not cut the sway bar in half. it is hardened steel that is one piece for a reason. and welding to it will just weaken it. as for the pin, it wouldnt hold up to the stresses of what the sway bar goes through. go to tractor supply and buy two 2"x1/2" tine pins with 10[?] holes and buy the matching pin clips. replace the torx bolts with the pins and you are golden. for the rear, i imagine the same pins will work, but i dont know for sure. besides, i think pins in the rear wont be as easy to get to as the front. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Homemade_Swaybar_Discos.htm
Thanks. Yeah the properties of the steel used for the swaybar was my main concern for cutting/welding. I'll probably just do the $5 tines with cotter pin .
There was a company making this setup and I installed one for a customer at a shop I used to work at, I was very skeptical of this setup from the get go. Welding to a essentially spring steel rod did not sould like a good idea but he insisted on it, and relying on a wire pin to keep it from moving scared the hell outta me. We had him sign a liability waiver for the work. As far as I know it is still holding up after 6 years. I guess if your drive like a normal person and not an idiot you should be fine. I cannot remember the name of the company that built the setup.
I thought I saw the ad for that weld in disconnect in an RE catalog back in like 1999 or 2000. Could be wrong though. I'm a big fan of living, so I might just err on the safe side and get some tine pins. Sounds like less hassle for an install anyway.
Thanks
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