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recommend a steering setup better that the ORO U-Turn

24K views 30 replies 23 participants last post by  ZZZ 
#1 · (Edited)
Can someone recommend a steering setup better that the ORO U-Turn? I am totally sick and tired of changing the TREs and always adjusting it. In my opinion, its JUNK! Why I paid $700 plus shipping and duty for a system that was supposed to be the SH!T I don’t know?

I have a 2005 Rubicon Unlimited with the warn 5 on 5 ½” hub conversion


I am thinking of doing the WJ big brake conversion / steering setup like that one performed at Burnsville off-road http://www.burnsvilleoffroad.com/Articles/01_02.aspx


Any of you converted to the WJ system and hub conversion? Any problems with it?

Who sells the WJ big brake kit?

Thanks
 
#3 · (Edited)
Nobody sells a kit for the WJ conversion.
From an old post;
http://homepage.mac.com/rv6a/hi-steer.html
http://www.americanjeepers.com/artic...ion-for-YJ%92s
http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/sstabilizers.html
These are two sites and JU has a lengthy thread on doing this modification. It’s a bit involved but in the end I feel it was worth it. JKS has DOM for the drag link and tie rod (pre-cut and threaded, 24mm x1.5), jam nuts for the tie rod ends (WJ), sway bar relocation brackets, bearing hub ¼” spacers (need to be nickel welded to the knuckle). Go find an HPd30 and start building it while you still enjoy driving your jeep. I used a TF adjustable track arm and removed the bends (cold bending) and cut about 7” off the driver’s side then rethreaded it, works great. If you want some of the research info get in touch with me, it’s somewhat involved…
As I found out, none of the sites that you review are all encompassing for your application. This is NOT a modification I would recommend doing unless you plan on building the axle on a stand and recommend talking with someone who has already done the head beating on the wall for you. The braking with the Explorer disc’s on my rear axle and the WJ disc setup on the front with just the O ring removed from the metering shaft in the proportioning valve (OEM) with the stock master cylinder is great. I’m running 35 BFG MT’s and it brakes better than a stock TJ... IMO
Also do the reverse taper modification on the WJ knuckle arms to get better clearance for the tie rod. The JKS track arm relocation bracket comes with holes (2) for mounting depending on lift for getting the track arm and drag link parallel.
I had some interference with the draglink and tie rod stabilizer mount, so I took the bends out of the draglink tie rod end at pitman arm end and pressed some DOM 1.25x4mm over it. You’re going to have to move the track bar mount (axle end) and sway brackets also...








http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=722519
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...rakes+knuckles
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...rakes+knuckles
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...rakes+knuckles
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...rakes+knuckles
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...rakes+knuckles
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...rakes+knuckles
 
#6 ·
I run the Currie setup, too. While it is nice and beefy, it's definately not the end-all, be-all solution. I'm running around 7" of lift, and the drag link/tie rod junction joint hits the sway bar mount on the passengers side when turning to the right, and it's damned near impossible to keep an alignment on it. Also, since it keeps with the stock design, toe changes quite a bit when the suspension flexes due to the extreme angle of the drag link.

One of these days I'm going to be sick enough of it to get off my ass and build my own traditional inverted "T" steering using the Chevy 1/2 ton TRE's & DOM tubing. Until then, I'm dealing with it.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Who sells the WJ big brake kit?

Thanks
I have the complete set up off my TJ. ( went to dana 60) includes knuckles, rotors, calipers, pads, hub bearing spacers, tie rod & drag link. The tie rod & drag link are JKS with WJ tre's. Set up came off an 02 TJ. The bigger brakes will lock up 37's no problem with a stock master. It is the exact set up thats in the pics above.

PM me if interested.
 
#9 ·
anyone do or even looked at the reid racing knuckles for the dana 30/rubicon 44? I am seriously thinking about going that route. it seems like the only true complete fix for the drag link and tie rod angles.
 
#12 ·
I reamed my knuckles to chevy 1-ton taper from the top and run 1-ton tie rod and draglink ends and a stock cherokee pitman arm (also reamed to chevy taper). The tie rod and drag link are 1.5" .240 wall cromo (i'm not sure on the wall thickness, i had luke porter at 4x4 labs make them for me). The angles are perfect with the full traction long arm track bar. there is a little play in the system because the drag link can "flop" forward and back, I got used to this right away but if you want a tighter system look elsewhere. Works good :smokin:

I have more pics if ur interested, just too lazy to post them right now. this system doesn't have a swaybar, it's difficult enough to clear the spring perches and track bar.

 
#14 ·



And here is the link to their page with some more info. http://www.reidracing.biz/DANA30.php
I talked to the tech guy on the phone the other day and he said you use dana 44 stuff from the stub shaft on out, spindle, breakes, etc... either nice new shiny stuff or just junk yard finds.
 
#15 ·
Stub Shaft

Ok, I am currently running CTM Dana 44 U-Joints. Would I be able to use a stub shaft from a junk yard Chevy with my CTMs?

I will probably go the junk yard route, clean and paint but are the stub shafts strong enough of should I upgrade it?

Can someone tell me what years to look for?

Thanks
 
#17 ·
You can use the CTM's with a junkyard stub......but you would have to machine the stub for full circle clips. Chromo shafts are much stronger, are machined to use full circle clips and it would be a shame to mess up a $$$$$ u joint when you tear the ears off a stock stub :)

So my 2 cents, use stock stub = use stock joint

BTW these knuckles are working out great, Parts Mike has high steer arms in stock.
 
#26 ·
I just got my JCR Offroad over the knuckle steering last week. Didn't put it on yet, but it looks like good quality parts. Had to buy a reemer from my snap-on guy so that was an extra $55.
I was considering the Currie setup but I heard that the tie rod ends are expensive and only available from Currie, as well as it keeps the same Y design. I stayed away from the ORO U turn because of the bolt on brackets.
The JCR setup is more work but I think the results will be worth it for my DD/trail rig.
 
#28 ·
This looks damn close to the Rugged ridge kit just with bigger ends.... honestly I'd stay away as I had nothing but problems with bump steer from this design. The entire assemble rotates on the TRE's which push and pull the steering wheel even more during take off and braking... I have the ORO kit and am in the process of getting their updated bent drag link to see if it fixes my bump steer versus trying to relocate the track bar. I think ORO has some potential its just going to take some fine tuning to get right. (if it doesn't work I'm going back to Currie)
 
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