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83 wagoneer ?'s

2K views 15 replies 5 participants last post by  rustywagoneersdotcom 
#1 · (Edited)
not a waggy, it is a full size cherokee what is the difference?

i am picking one up cheap. anyone know problems i should look for? did all waggy's have 44's front and rear? thanks
 
#2 ·
not a waggy, it is a full size cherokee what is the difference?

NOT MUCH. 2 dr or 4 dr?

i am picking one up cheap.

GOOD.

anyone know problems i should look for?

RUST. P.O. NEGLECT AND IGNORANCE.

did all waggy's have 44's front and rear?

NO. MOST LIKELY THIS TRUCK HAS AN M23 REAR. (LIKE M20, EXCEPT ONE PIECE SHAFTS, THICKER TUBES. STILL NEED TO BURN THE TUBES IN.

thanks

YOU ARE WELCOME.
peace
Dave
 
#4 ·
cherokees (FSJ) wagoneers, and J-trucks were all available with 6'es.

WIDE TRACK (with the big sheet metal flares, available stock as 2-doors only) cherokees are wider (same width as J-trucks) Narrow-track Cherokees are the same width as wagoneers. Wide track cherokee axles have the same perch width as wagoneers. J-trucks have the perches farther apart.

Some 2-door cherokees are NARROW TRACK (same as waggy) all stock 4-door cherokees are NARROW TRACK.

Don't buy the truck just for the axles. They will live reasonably well with a 35 (36 if you are careful) 37 with alloys and if you are careful. But if you are ever gonna go big, you will want different axles, whether in this truck, or a different one. IF you are thinking of buying this truck for the axles to put in another rig, skip it. Save your money and get real axles. My suggestion is usually to get the FSJ, chop the fenders (if they are rusty) weld the diffs and wheel it on 35's while you put together real axles for whatever rig you are building. If you actually WANT an FSJ, start the same way, while you put together big axles for the FSJ.

peace
Dave
 
#5 ·
it has the big flares. the fuel sending unit is out. does any other unit work? cant get one for this from parts store. i have a 60 front and a 14 bolt rear that will eventually be swapped in. what tranny and t case should this have? thanks for the good info. this is my first full size jeep
 
#8 · (Edited)
if it is stock then you have a Torqueflite 727 transmission. The transmission will be a 23-spline, flush-output shaft. 6-bolt round pattern to the T-case. T-case (most likely) will be an NP208. you have a great start of a wheeling rig there. Then it is time to put the 60-14 setup in it, you can SOA on the stock front springs (Jeep FSJ and GM are the same center-pin distance). Inboard the rears and put them under the frame rails to match the lift from the SOA.

you can 'flip' the springs around to gain ~6 inches of wheelbase if you want to - but that means a fair amount of body cutting. Most of my FSJ's have been so rusty, body cutting was pretty much a given.

Sending unit - FSJ only as far as I know. They should be available thru Z+M Jeeps, or BJ's Offroad.

Make yourself a 'socket' out of a PVC pipe adapter (double female, I forget the size). Cut 6 notches in it to match the hex of the big plastic nut that holds the sending unit into your big plastic tank. Flip up the rear seat, pull back the carpet on the driver side, close to the ledge. There is a round tin cover screwed or riveted to the floor right above the sending unit. Replace the fuel hoses too, since it will be really easy at that point.

When you do the 60-14, get a GM 32 spline slip-yoke output shaft for your stock NP208. Plop it into your FSJ NP208. Make a plate for the back of the t-case to bolt where the output housing should go. Make a plate to match the front of an NP 205. get an NP 205 with a GM 32-spline input, and it will slide right on to that 32-spline NP208 output shaft.

If you do that (the super cheap doubler) then I would definitely flip the springs for the added wheelbase. You really should do it for the departure angle anyway. ALSO you will NEED an anti-wrap bar with the springs flipped, they will get all out of shape otherwise.

Lots of good info over on the IFSJA.com board to keep an FSJ alive for a long time.

AND, IMHO, FSJ's are the cheapest wheeling rigs EVAR.

peace
Dave
(POST SOME PICS, BTW)




EDIT - first thing you need to do is check the frame at the front of the driver's side rear spring. The frames rust pretty bad in that area, due to the big coffin skid plate covering your big plastic gas tank. They trap dirt/mud really REALLY bad, and that will kill a frame. Most FSJ P.O.'s couldn't give 2 squishy turds about the truck, so the likelihood of them ever washing it, or sticking a garden hose in the frame rail for an hour is pretty close to the same chances of us ever getting a flat tax.
 
#13 ·
where are the freeze plugs located on this 360?

SIDES OF THE BLOCK, 3 EACH SIDE

BACK OF THE BLOCK - I THINK, WILL LOOK AT ONE THAT IS OUT THIS AFTERNOON WHEN I GET TO THE SHOP - HOPEFULLY YOU DO NOT HAVE A CRACKED BLOCK.

got 1 gallon of antifreeze in it and there is a leak coming fromthe back of the motor coming out around the flex plate. do i have to pull the motor


YES

thanks
peace
Dave
 
#14 ·
Yes.

If this will be a wheeling rig / occasional driver, then cut the radiator support (you will see where I am talking aboutwith the hood up) and just weld it back in when you are done with the engine swap. If it will be a 'nice' truck, then don't do that.

Hardest part of pulling your engine out will be getting the kickdown linkage stuff off the back of the driver side cylinder head. With the radiator support cut, and if you have a big enough engine hoist, I usually just pull the engine, trans and t-case together.

While you are putting freeze plugs in the engine, put in a rear-main seal, maybe pull and check the timing cover (oil pump). Put an input seal in the transmission, and check (check REALLY close) the input hub of the torque convertor, they tend to crack in there. (the notches that drive the front pump)

peace
Dave
 
#16 ·
That is a locating hole from when they machined the block.

Serves no purpose after machining, except as a weep hole. You definitely have a bad freeze plug (at least) on the back side of the block. You are definitely removing the engine.

peace
Dave
 
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