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Super 35 Kit

10K views 30 replies 18 participants last post by  mrtoddb 
#1 ·
I broke my D35 axle shaft last weekend and looking to beef up the axle due to cost of replacing it. I am debating between the Super 35 axles with 27 spline or the Super 35 with 30 spline kit. The reason I am looking the 27 spline is I already have a lock rite locker installed and the cost is allot less than the 30 spine kit with a locker. I hate to have replace the lock rite. Does anyone know if there is a big difference in strength between the two? I am also going to reweld the tubes and possibly weldin some trussing on the axle to beef it up. Any advice? I have a 4 banger tj with a 5.5 inch lift and 35 inch tires. I also locker in the front.
 
#2 · (Edited)
here, ill save you the trouble. 8.8 or 44 Don't drink the super 35 koolaid, the 35 is a boat anchor and not worth spending money on.

If you are looking for people to tell you that a super 35 is a good idea check out JF or JU



edit to say: cost of replacing it ?? If you just broke a stock shaft and nothing else just go to the junkyard and pull a new one. I still think you need a new rear axle if you are going to wheel on 35's , not just cruise around the mall.
 
#3 ·
Yeah for the price of the kit, you have to replace not only the shafts but the locker too you can almost buy a 44 or have an 8.8 built. I had one and now I have a 44 rear. If it wasn't given to me free I probably wouldn't have run it to begin with.

HTH,
Trey
 
#4 · (Edited)
Is the Dana 44 that much stronger than the Super 35?

I meant the cost of replacing the dana 35 with a dana 44 or 8.8, not just replacing the stock shaft. building or having a dana 44 or ford 8.8 built is going to cost $1500 plus when you start replacing gears, wheels, drive shaft ect.

I have wheeled the dana 35 on 35's for about eight years, this is the first time I broke a shaft.
 
#21 ·
I have wheeled the dana 35 on 35's for about eight years, this is the first time I broke a shaft.

If you've made it that long on a stocker, just put a superior c-clip eliminator kit in it, combined with a truss.

8.8 will be over kill for your jeep anyways. Only thing they offer is a bolt pattern anyways. Other wise they are just a cheap ditch digging pig with the clearence of a 60 and strength of a 44.

Unless you think your wheeling habits are progrssively getting harder on equipment, I see no need for you to start swapping to bigger axles.
 
#9 ·
x2

Don't waste you coin on the 35. I did and I regret it! I even broke a super 35 locker! the housing was bent. You can install a semifloat 60 for the same price of a super 35 if you look hard enough. But the 8.8 is a great option as well because you can keep the same bolt pattern
 
#11 ·
I don't really know what I have tied up into my 8.8. I actually traded it straight up, my D35 with a detroit and 4.56's for a stock 8.8. I bought new loaded calipers for about $80, and had it regeared to 4.56's for about $200. Then I bought probably another $150 in misc stuff like perches and stuff.. so all total, I have about $420 or so into MY 8.8.
Scott
 
#12 ·
I probably have $600 in my 8.8 w/4.56's and a detroit. I wish it had the same length axles left and right. something about an offset rear diff on a rig designed for a centered diff kinda bothers me. It works good though and it fit my budget. A big selling point was it kept the 5 on 4.5" spacing.
 
#13 ·
Personally I would go with an 8.8. They are cheap, they are abundant, and they are strong. If you want a bolt in axle, I would try to find a D44, but I am guessing that you would probably pay a pretty penny for it. Either way, cut your losses with the D35.


hick
 
#15 ·
Thanks every one for the Advice, I hoping to get a hold of a ford 8.8. I am going to call pull apart today. 95 or newer Ford explorer have 8.8 right? I think I can find one with 4.10 gears to match my front.

I already have an AMC 20 I pulled out of a CJ we have, It has an Alloy Axle kit, ARB Locker, and Disc Brakes, Would the 20 be worth the effort to swap to the TJ, I have not seen it done before.
 
#18 ·
screw the d35 i had one in the back of my tj with the super 35 kit for about a year and i blew it up about 5 times and decided to finally build it right and put a 35 spline d44 with an arb, the d35 will cost more in the long run because it isnt reliable on any tire size other than stock
 
#19 ·
The AMC 20 is already trussed, But it is a six lug bolt pattern which is a set back, and I would have to regear my front axle to 4.56 (which would not be a bad thing) just added cost. I think the AMC is the same length as my 35?

I am looking serious at a 8.8 if I can find one, Any main issues I should look out for, Oh course I will have to install coil spring perches, brackets and so on. Any solutions for the yoke on the 8.8 to fit my TJ drive shaft.
 
#23 ·
Thanks Guys,

I found a 8.8 at a yard close by, It is complete with Disc brake and 4.10 gears that will match my front axle, I am getting it for $200.00. Now I just have to get my brackets swapped over with my welder.

Any one interested in a DANA 35 Lock Rite Locker, Less that 100 miles on it.
 
#27 ·
Just buy some brand new OEM weld on brackets. Don't waste your time unless you are hurtin that bad on cash flow. If you do cut off the brackets and transfer, be carefull about it. Its a surgicall cut with a cut off wheel or a grinder. Big PITA.
 
#28 ·
This has probably been mentioned in about a hundred places, but it is a viable option if you have overlooked it.

Find an 87 or 88 Cherokee (little cherokee, not the big one. Well, the big one may be better, 44's front and rear....but I digress) with a D44 rear. Already 5 on 4.5 and (again, probably beat to death) better option than an 8.8. (Just my .02, and that is why you are asking).

I have seen hundreds of 8.8's fail under full size rigs on 31's and open diffs. I wont put one under a jeep ever.

And the 35 kit....polishing a turd. Good for boat anchors and the like. I have had many talks with the good folks at (name withheld, but kind of sounds like BARB), and they themselves would never put a Super 35 kit in a 35 with 35's, or 33's for that matter. The axle is just not that strong. I wheeled mine for a year and broke 3 ring gears from the housing flexing on it.

Please, I implore you, do not spend any more money on that axle. It is just going to fail.
 
#31 ·
I've been running my Yukon Super 35 for about 3 years and only 3 weeks ago broke the first one. I know everyone will think it is a mall crawler, but it ain't and I have beat the shit out of it!! I'm not saying they are stronger than they are, but if you know how to drive instead of just using the gas pedal, you can do fine.

Now before you all get up on your soap boxes, I have a set of 60's getting readied as we speak, so don't even start, but I think the Super 35 has done a great job for me, and Disney and Clayton are not necessarily the easy places to go. My opinion, you may think I'm wrong, but rest easy knowing I may think you are as well. Best of luck to you!

PS the replacement shaft for my Super 35 was only about $90.
 
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