I am swapping out the Dana 35 for a Ford 8.8 with 4.10 gears and a factory Limited slip??? What is any ones take on the Limited slip in this axle, Should start looking for a locker, If so what locker is best in the 8.8. I had a Lock rite and I liked it in the Dana 35, to bad the dana 35 is junk.
Its a loaded question ..The 8.8 is a great swap.But you need to weld the tubes or some guys are bolting them I have heard...your choice on the locker if your going cheap like me try the aussie...this is my opinion I am sure others will disagree...good luck
You should replace the whole thing with a full case locker of some sort like a Detroit or ARB. I have heard that the carrier is the weak point of the axle. Also, like stated earlier, have someone weld the tubes to the housing to keep them from spinning.
The ford trash-locs are trash. Plenty of guys run lunchboxes on 8.8s, haven't heard much in the way of breakage but it does happen. Detroit/ARB if you want it strong as possible, Powertrax No-Slip for the LS carrier if you want to keep it simple...
I'll go against the flow with the majority of guys here.. While a full locker is the best route, if you are on a budget, and you don't mind finessing through your wheeling a little bit, a factory trac loc is fine, especially if you have a front locker. I run a front lock right and an 8.8 rear with a trac lock, and its never stopped me from wheelin. I have had to do a little finessing of the brake pedal in certain situations to get the trac lock to lock up, but other than that, I like it. I am a cheap bastard though, so YMMMV. I was thinking of welding up the mini spiders in the tracloc for a "spool", but I haven't decided if thats a good idea yet or not.
Scott
I have the trac lok in my 8.8 and it has done just fine. But if I were to replace it (and I have thought hard about it) I would replace it with a unit that replaces the entire carrier.
From what research I have done, if you want to go to a locker, you will have to get a carrier from a non trac lok axle anyways. Why not just replace the entire unit with a locker?
Except for the Powertrax No-Slip I listed a couple posts ago, there is a model for the 8.8 LS carrier, which is why I listed it as the easy route but not the strongest.
Weld the tubes to the center. Install a Detroit. Build or buy a beefy diff cover, the 8.8 covers are made of tin foil. Build it right the first time. When I ordered my gears from randy's ring and pinion the guy on the phone recommended a full case locker for the 8.8, he said the carrier is the weakest point on that axle.
I guess I will run the factory trac lock until I can get the cash to upgrade to a locker that replaces the carrier. I already have my welder informed to weld the tubes in solid.
Just from my experience, DON'T go with an Eaton e-locker. The damn thing won't lock at all now, less than two years old. Ball ramps are chewed. And I know NOT to engage while driving!!
Just curious... how do you think this happened? I've installed ELockers in my front D44 and rear 8.8, but haven't used them yet because I'm still building my Jeep. Eaton claims to perform some pretty severe off-road testing on their products, and the ELocker is supposed to be one of the better units out there. Maybe there was a manufacturing defect or something?
I'm swapping an 8.8 into my TJ as we speak. I am going with a Detroit, 4.56's and Yukon shafts. I would recommend saving up for a full case locker like suggested earlier. I did and I won't be afraid to romp on it when I'm wheeling. If you have any questions on your swap let me know.
Don't know what you got the 8.8 out of, Ranger, Explorer or Mustang, but the basics are all the same. When i worked for JBA some time back, I found the drag racers breaking the main caps of the diff. from hard acceleration. Theres a rear cover available with a girdle to eliminate this. May or may not happen with your application. Also knew guys that would add an extra rear clutch plate into the factory trac-lok. cheap kind of posi but worked for guys on a budget that were racing. I'd try going back through some muscle mustang magazines about diff. upgrades for some ideas.
i also have an 8.8 in my tj. it is great axle, but i haven't welded the tubes. what is the best way to do this? i'm a newb at the whole welding thing. where do you get nickel rod and is it necessary to weld all the way around the tube or just in short sections? sorry for the hijack...
I had my 8.8 welded all the way around, but some guys just do small sections, My weld shop I use charges $50 an hour, This takes about 20 min to do, Cost me about $20. If you take it somewhere to get it welded go ahead and prep the tubes by grinding the area where the welds will be this will save time and money. If you do it your self let the axle cool between welds. You don't won't to warp to your shafts.
That is a very well written write up, Do you think it would make that much of difference, If I were rebuilding the clutches anyway I would do it, Don't think I will take it apart before then, Thanks for the great info
I added an extra clutch disk - waste of time.
The LS carrier in the ford 8.8 is stronger than the open carrier. I have both carriers. I got a Lock rite for the LS carrier and it works great with 35" tires I wheeled it over some rough shit with 33"s.
If you run leaf springs weld on a trus like T&T customs.
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