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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Member # 118788
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 91
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Biggest I should go on Dana 44's
1979 CJ7 with waggy dana 44 in front and Scout Dana 44 in rear. 4.10 gears right now. I am running 35in MT's I was thinking of going to 36in TSL's but could I go to 38's or am I asking for trouble?
Thanks and if anyone has pics of Dana 44's with 36's or 38's feel free to post them. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Oct 2002
Member # 14509
Location: North West Arkansas
Posts: 1,547
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I have a HP44 on 36" iroks.
Aside from the search type responce... this has been covered quite often... From what I have noticed. People with dana 44's up front and 36" tires put in alloy shafts and don't have to do as many trail fixes. People running over 36" tires put in alloys, then bitch about how they should have started with a 60... and wind up getting a 60. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Member # 118788
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 91
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Quote:
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#4 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Jun 2004
Member # 32145
Posts: 419
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I've got the same axles you are running (both locked) and I'm currently on 38" TSLs. I ran 36" TSL radials for about 2 years before going to the 38s and I broke one stub shaft in that time (on 36s). I'm not usually hard on my Jeep but I will lay into it pretty good every now and then. I carry a few extra shafts and hubs just in case since that first axle break. Running the stock 258 so I don't have a ton of power either.
If I drove like my friends on 60s or Rocks drove, I would destroy the axles in no time I'm sure. I'm working on installing a 14bolt rear now just so I don't have to think about the rear axle any more. The front is getting 8 lug outers to match. Eventually I'll install alloys in front but I've got a few spares to go through before I need to spend any more money on the front. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Oct 2002
Member # 14509
Location: North West Arkansas
Posts: 1,547
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4.88's. I am happy with them on the street, but wish I had lower for the trail. 5.13's might have been a better choice... but I do a fair amount of street driving and didn't want to spin 4000 rpms to get to 60 mph. I am looking to do a stak or atlas next year to get better trail performance.
I don't wheel that hard anymore, I haven't had any real issues with the 36" tires on a 44... (no reason to upgrade). I personally would not go any bigger than 37" tires on a dana 44 simply because I hate working on my rig on the trail. I did that for too many years with the old dana 30 and 35 set up. In short. 4.88's with a 4.0HO/ax15/np231 is fine for the street on 36" tires. Most trails it is fine as well, I find myself feathering the clutch a lot in technical situations though. A 4-1 kit in the t-case would probably make it about perfect for me. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Mall Crawler
Join Date: Dec 2006
Member # 83394
Location: Dawsonville,Ga
Posts: 262
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Stick with 36"s, not only for the strength issue, but also because you don't want your rig too tall on axles that narrow.
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Save Tellico/Support SFWDA Jeff Dodgen 2000 TJ Tellico Rally Post #942 |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 99818
Location: Arizona
Posts: 395
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Quote:
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Beer is good: Jeep CJ7, under contruction....again Nobama 08' |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Jul 2003
Member # 20999
Location: Lost in Nor Cal
Posts: 2,809
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alloys, ctms in front stock scout 44 in the rear........... 35's and 36's no bang bang good clearance at the pumpkins, to run a 60 id have to jump up to 39's to get teh same clearance. i did tuck the cross member higher to get more belly pan clearance. sproacha dn departure angles could be better but thats minor
__________________
I AM ONE OF MANY WHOM WASHINGTON HAS CHOSEN TO IGNORE OR FORGET But i Vote GO UM Montana Griz "Jeep Lurker" ![]() KEEP REMEMBERING 9/11 Jeep with Rambler motor, SUA, front 608.9 and some bolt on stuff. I miss my old 4bt powered chief Support Frank the Tank |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2001
Member # 8839
Location: WV
Posts: 603
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Quote:
Also, at two years with maybe 1k miles, the ball joints are shot. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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36" tires are cheaper than 38" tires. think about that.
__________________
*98 RHD TJ: swapped 4.0L/AX-15/Dana 300, 4.88, AEV 3", LP9"/S88, Grizzly/Detroit, OTK steering, 35" muds... 84:1. *85 CJ-7: GM350/NV4500/D300, SOA on Wags, LP44/LP9", Aussies, 37" MT/Rs, Staun beadlocks, hi-steer, 110:1... in pieces. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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K^2
Join Date: Jun 2005
Member # 49704
Location: Cincinnasti, OH
Posts: 2,425
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3 chromo shafts and numerous hub fuses on bald fawkin 37 iroks, granted that was before 2 rear 60 yukon shafts, 1 14 bolt shaft and a 35 spline cromo outer on 40s. maybe Im just too hard on things
__________________
Walle Crawler /forum/general-4x4-discussion/1038946-project-walle-crawler.html Benz Buggy http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=877869 Slinky Blue Ballz /forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/551947-project-slinky-blue-ballz.html Last edited by kirbyiv; 08-27-2008 at 09:09 PM. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Member # 100949
Location: Chico California, Geographically and mentally closer to Boise Idaho than Los Angeles
Posts: 264
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Ditto....
same axles as you have (waggy front, scout rear) 4:56, detroits, havent broken anything """"""YET"""""" running an LS1 and 37 MTR's. currently in the process of building a rear 60 because that thing is creakin and poppin crazy like. i step on the skinny pedal any chance i can get too....37's would be fine. i think another aspect rarely thought about is tire WIDTH.
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7 DAYS WITHOUT TACOS MAKES JUAN WEAK |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Member # 40587
Location: SouthEastern CT, Near South Rd./White Rock
Posts: 3,062
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I have the same setup you have, waggy 44s, 37" iroks, 106:1 crawl gearing, and a healthy 258 (parts punisher
) I'm constantly throwing passenger short side u-joints which of coarse take out the shafts. So soon as I get the cash its gonna be chromo's and CTM's in that side.
__________________
[QUOTE=Dieselmh]I'll cave his fucking head in with a shovel, just to show him that just because he has opposable thumbs, that doesn't put him on the same badassedness level as humans. Stupid arrogant possums. :shaking:[/QUOTE] |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Member # 118788
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 91
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My front is 61 3/4 inches WMS to WMS and my rear is 58 1/2 inches WMS to WMS. I am thinking 36's will be good for my set up. If I out grow them I will go to Dana 60's and bigger tires. Plus with my SOA lift and RE 1.5in springs it sits pretty high as is. I tried going with YJ stock leaf springs to bring down the COG but they get beat going negative arch. You almost have to have as much arch as the RE's do to get good flex and no negative arch.
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Member # 64978
Location: Texas
Posts: 240
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Quote:
x2 If you REALLY want to go with 38's,I would recommend upgrading your rear axle to a semi-built Ford 9",Dana60 or 14bolt. That way when your front end blows, and it will blow, you can get home under your own power. Stepping up to 38's with stock shafts and u-joints will almost guarantee failure in rocks and hills. You might make it in sand and mud as long as your vehicle never bounces or is ever at any risk of wheel-spin stopping suddenly. If you got to that point you would definetly want to consider alloy shafts and beefy aftermarket u-joints.....but then you're spending as much as it would cost you to get a front Dana60 for. Hence,just save up to find you a pair of Dana60's. You won't regret it
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" [B]The early bird may get the word,but the 2nd mouse gets the cheese [/B]" |
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#21 (permalink) | |
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K^2
Join Date: Jun 2005
Member # 49704
Location: Cincinnasti, OH
Posts: 2,425
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Quote:
__________________
Walle Crawler http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1038946 Benz Buggy http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=877869 Slinky Blue Ballz http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=551947 |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Member # 118788
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 91
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But if I go with Dana 60's then I have to go with 39in tires, and extend my wheelbase and hack up my tub. For now I will go with 36in tires and beat on it for awhile. In the meantime I will keep my eye out for some Dana 60's to start working on because I know if I hang around here long enough I will end up with them anyways.
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#23 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Dont expect to get cromos anytime soon hahaha
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2002 TJ 4.0L 5sp. D300 ARB'd D44 F/R 37" MTR/s [QUOTE=Diesel Smoke;7969796]It takes two things to build a rig, money and time. Having alot of one means needing less of the other.[/QUOTE] |
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#24 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 80624
Location: Philippines
Posts: 86
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oh no
![]() i have 38s on my 44s 5.375:1 diffs 4.25 tcase 1.6li engine
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[URL=http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=560975][FONT="Times New Roman"][SIZE="5"][COLOR="Yellow"]BUDGET BUGGY BUILD[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][/URL] |
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#25 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Member # 40587
Location: SouthEastern CT, Near South Rd./White Rock
Posts: 3,062
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Quote:
__________________
[QUOTE=Dieselmh]I'll cave his fucking head in with a shovel, just to show him that just because he has opposable thumbs, that doesn't put him on the same badassedness level as humans. Stupid arrogant possums. :shaking:[/QUOTE] |
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