AMC 20 Axle Truss idea - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Arrow AMC 20 Axle Truss idea

So I got this idea to make an AMC 20 for a backup axle for my Jeep. I already have one and it wouldn't hurt to have an axle to slap in if mine breaks again.

Anyways here are my 2 ideas:

The first is a weld on, it would make me kind of weary because heating the tubes could cause it to bend, and it would be alot of welding. There is a spot for the u-bolts to go through also.





The second idea is a bolt on. This would be cool because I could take it from axle to axle and I could make one for my friend who doesn't have a welder. It bolts to the diff cover in the middle, it would have 4 ubolts going around the axle to hold the truss and I was thinking of even having the Spring U-Bolts coming up through it so they could be flipped on top. Let me know what you guys think, is it too much, not enough, not feasable? If I were to make it, I was thinking 1/4" plate for the ubolt areas. Does that sound sufficient?



Let me know what you guys think.

~Bry
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Old 03-05-2009, 02:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I don't know any thing about D20s so I can't help,

But what did you draw this in? Solid Works?
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Old 03-05-2009, 02:28 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Pro/Engineer, it was just a quick sketch

Here are some more that I made for a class. Again, they aren't to scale or anything, just to get the point across














~Bry
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Old 03-05-2009, 02:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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That's Nice
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Old 03-05-2009, 02:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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We just got done with my dana 44. I also don't know anything about the D20 so I don't know about tube thickness, etc... but this worked fine on the 44.






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Old 03-05-2009, 02:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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What's that truss made out of?

I was looking to truss mine and was going to do it out of 3/16 or 1/4 plate. I like how yours is clean on the top bend.

Also any issues welding the cast?
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Old 03-05-2009, 03:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Kind of wish the bolt on truss would work, would be nice to have on my rear Dana 44 and to flip the ubolts at the same time. I can't weld and all that, would be another great bolt on.

I seen a bolt on truss for a Dana 35 but it went across the cover instead of above it. Do not know who made it or if it was worth a shit.
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Old 03-05-2009, 03:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Kind of wish the bolt on truss would work, would be nice to have on my rear Dana 44 and to flip the ubolts at the same time. I can't weld and all that, would be another great bolt on.

I seen a bolt on truss for a Dana 35 but it went across the cover instead of above it. Do not know who made it or if it was worth a shit.
Superior Axle is who makes it.

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Old 03-05-2009, 03:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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3/16 steel plate.

Mark your cutouts, grind it, fit it, make adjustments (the usual). I suppose it could be argued that almost any weld job has issues... meaning if you don't follow the right process, you'll mess up. Aside from knowing what filler to use - with cast you gotta heat it slow and make sure it cools slow so it doesn't go brittle or lock in stresses. Some purists might shy away... but they'll be missing out.

There's an interesting blurb at the bottom of this page on welding cast steel... light reading. Tons more info around the net (then again, you are consulting the internet... sorta like what's happening right now! hahah)

http://www.esabna.com/euweb/oxy_handbook/589oxy16_1.htm
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Old 03-07-2009, 07:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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A bolt on truss would probably be better than welding on the thin amc20 axle tubes.
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Here is mine for some other ideas! hope it helps.
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Old 09-02-2009, 05:30 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Does this look like a decent idea to anyone? Seems to me that they always bend at the housing so a simple gusset might be easier than a full truss. Am I about to waste my time with this method?
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Old 09-03-2009, 12:45 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGJMCCONNELL View Post
Does this look like a decent idea to anyone? Seems to me that they always bend at the housing so a simple gusset might be easier than a full truss. Am I about to waste my time with this method?
With it having such a small profile, I think you'd be better off using ~2x4 box cut in the same pattern. It would then have more than twice as much mounting area and lateral strength, with some added torsional strength to combat twist and tube spinning. Longer would still probably be better, and I don't see how it could be worth gambling over a minimal amount of extra work.
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Old 09-03-2009, 05:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Here is my homebuilt truss and anti-wrap bar for a Waggy AMC 20 setup for SOA in a YJ.

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/562624611luXWZP
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Old 09-03-2009, 05:44 PM   #15 (permalink)
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build a jig and bolt it to a steel table and chain it down. We did this to a old CJ5 D44 with 2.75" tubes that were like 1/4" thick I think. We cut a peice of 3"x.120 tube and plug welded it and put a bead along the entire axle tube on both sides. We had a peice of 2" tubing going through the housing and kept spinning it(it was in the bearings in the end) while welding to make sure it wasnt moving too much. It drives down the road straight and isnt bent.

The picture doesnt have the 20 in it but you can get the idea for the jig
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Old 09-03-2009, 06:02 PM   #16 (permalink)
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My brother has one like your first idea. It's not actually welded to the housing, but still does the job. It's made out of 3/8 plate that's stich welded every 5 inches or so. No problems. I can't find any pictures though
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Old 09-03-2009, 09:07 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Bry, we did a truss on mine along with stitching the center to the axles. I'll PM you with how we did it.

You could always come over this way and we could get it done in an afternoon.
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Old 09-03-2009, 10:37 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Nice work on those 3D files. Would love to have copies for future renderings I do ;-)

The 20 tubes are thin for sure so be careful if you go the welding route. When I did the Red Bull CJ, we cut out the spot welds and pushed the tubes out of the housing and put in heavy wall DOM. We did a simple tube truss (zero plate) on it and it worked out great. The reason we did the truss is because we were trying to support the housing a little better due to weaking it by cutting out the rosette welds and then re-welding...all of that heat can take its toll.

Our friends that went the full-welded truss method were not exactly experts in how to weld a truss on a diff and ended up junking their housings. I have only seen a couple that lasted very long. If you're going to weld, make sure you're working with someone who understands how to truss a diff.

Best of luck!
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