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#4 (permalink) |
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Pirate4x4 Addict!
Join Date: Mar 2001
Member # 3511
Location: MN
Posts: 5,387
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Don't do it unless you are changing the knuckles. The steering will be terrible.
__________________
Chuck P The clowns'? Oh, yeah, the clowns. We fight them too — entire armies, spilling out of Volkswagons. We do our best to fight them off, but they keep sending 'em in! www.oldjeep.com |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member # 85098
Posts: 98
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haha whats up derek, i didn't even look at the poster handle and didn't relise it was you! hows the engine swap going? I'm using the scout axles too and they are a pain in the ass. Your gonna have to turn the tubes to get any sort of good caster. Search google for "scout II dana 44 swap" and you'll find some good info. here's another link describing some steering issues. I would keep your cj outers though... makes it easier, but you should still do the caster mod.
http://www.jeeptech.com/convaxle/ihscout/d44f.html |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Member # 95938
Posts: 243
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haven't started the motor swap yet, hopefully in the next couple weeks thing will get rollin.
i managed to find a scout 44 already shortened with the knuckles turned, castor set to 5*. perfect... and i'm gonna use my d30 outers to finish them off. i've got a line on a d44 rear out of an 86 cj with matching gears too. figure i might as well do this now. |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Pirate4x4 Addict!
Join Date: Mar 2001
Member # 3511
Location: MN
Posts: 5,387
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Quote:
__________________
Chuck P The clowns'? Oh, yeah, the clowns. We fight them too — entire armies, spilling out of Volkswagons. We do our best to fight them off, but they keep sending 'em in! www.oldjeep.com |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member # 85098
Posts: 98
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with the center section out so wide that front end should actually help you with your d-shaft clearance too. Thats awesome that you found one that was turned already. I'm gonna be turning mine next week and I'm not looking forward to it. Yeah I'm gonna do a truss on mine as well, i would recomend doing that and make sure the tubes are welded
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Member # 120057
Location: Union, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 35
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Quote:
I elgonated the CJ drivers spring plate but made my own plate for the passenger side. I got my u-bolts made up at a local heavy truck shop.
__________________
83CJ7- 350/ T18/D20/D44/shaved 14BFF with Grizzly/ 36" TSL radials |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member # 85098
Posts: 98
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ruff stuff makes some good stuff that you can prob use. call them up. Dan is real cool and will def talk to you for a while (make sure you have some time, LOL) and make sure you get the right stuff. You're gonna have to outboard the springs in the front, and he makes stuff to do that as well. 916.600.1945
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Member # 95938
Posts: 243
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Quote:
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#16 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Member # 120057
Location: Union, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 35
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The CJ D30 spring plate just wasn't big enough to span the YJ springs or long enough for the square bottomed u-bolts I got made for it and still be strong enough IMO. I just made a plate out of some 3/8".
__________________
83CJ7- 350/ T18/D20/D44/shaved 14BFF with Grizzly/ 36" TSL radials |
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