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Old 04-13-2009, 07:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Max lift on TJ before SYE?

What would you guys think would be the max amount of lift I can squeeze on an '05 TJ before needing a SYE? I was running an RE Budget Boost and laid hands recently on some TJ lift coils that are 2" taller than my factory ones. If I take the budget boost off and throw those coils on, I've gained zero in terms of ground clearance. Would it be wise to run them with the budget boost? Would I need a sye?

I also have some taller coils I bought a while back from a friend. Not sure on the amount of lift, but they are much beefier (thicker) coils. I tried bolting them on this afternoon, just to see how well they fit. I got one side on, then no matter what I couldn't flex the other side enough to get it on. Sway bar was disconnected on both sides and both shocks were removed, but still no go.

I have a coil spring compression tool, but it goes inside the spring and will not work with small diameter springs like these. Maybe pick up a set of the ones that go on the outside and try them?

Edit - I also have front and rear adjustable trackbars to install, so would dropping the trackbar help with getting the springs on?
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Old 04-13-2009, 07:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Max varies Jeep to Jeep, usually 4" is pushing it, depends on who's measuring the springs. You can also put in the t-case drop.

Easiest way to install front springs is put a small bottle jack on the axle where the shock mounts, push up against the frame until the gap opens enough. Check your lower control arms when dropping the axle down and make sure the arms aren't hitting the axle brackets.

Just bolting random parts on is likely gonna fawk your steering or something else up.
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Old 04-13-2009, 07:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 04-13-2009, 07:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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depends on you trans also. Autos are longer. 3" or more can vibe. you can drop the skid (dumb) and raise the engine with a motor mount lift
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Old 04-13-2009, 07:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Max varies Jeep to Jeep, usually 4" is pushing it, depends on who's measuring the springs. You can also put in the t-case drop.

Easiest way to install front springs is put a small bottle jack on the axle where the shock mounts, push up against the frame until the gap opens enough. Check your lower control arms when dropping the axle down and make sure the arms aren't hitting the axle brackets.

Just bolting random parts on is likely gonna fawk your steering or something else up.
I'm trying to avoid the tcase drop unless absolutely necessary, I already installed a 2" budget boost, 1" body lift and 1" motor mount lift. I've been running 33"x12.5"s for a long while now and haven't rubbed too much, but I'm just trying to improve ground clearance a little. I like the bottle jack idea.

And if the steering was gonna be fawked, it already would be. I've replaced one part at a time as I broke stuff so far, and have wheeled the hell out of it ever since I bought it. It's never been mistaken for a mall crawler.

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To which part?
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Old 04-13-2009, 07:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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depends on you trans also. Autos are longer. 3" or more can vibe. you can drop the skid (dumb) and raise the engine with a motor mount lift
Factory manual 6-speed tranny, 4.0L engine with brown dog industries 1" motor mount lift. It vibes on pavement a little already, but it rarely ever sees pavement.
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Old 04-13-2009, 08:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Factory manual 6-speed tranny, 4.0L engine with brown dog industries 1" motor mount lift. It vibes on pavement a little already, but it rarely ever sees pavement.
call Tom at Carolina Driveline. He has some deals on SYE and drive shaft combo's
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Old 04-13-2009, 08:14 PM   #8 (permalink)
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call Tom at Carolina Driveline. He has some deals on SYE and drive shaft combo's
Sent him an email, thanks for the heads up. I'm trying to get a little more lift for the time being without too much cost, as I'm saving up for a D60 front (already have a FF D60 rear) to go one-tons.
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Old 04-13-2009, 08:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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4'' Pro Comp lift and it vibrates under acceleration only. It's tolerable.
I just refuse to dump any money into a 231. AW4 and D300 going in soon.
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Old 04-16-2009, 08:41 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I got the coils on and shocks back on (using the ones that came with the Budget Boost until I order a new longer set). The Jeep sits about 2" - 3" taller, but the rear pinion angle is pretty much inline with the driveshaft. As it's not a CV shaft, this should be inline with the tcase output, right?

I'm planning on ordering some adjustable rear lowers from Rusty's that'll allow 2" of adjustment. I'm thinking 2" should be enough to push it back enough to correct the angle without losing much in the spline engagement in the driveshaft.
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Old 04-17-2009, 12:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StinkyMcStink View Post
I'm planning on ordering some adjustable rear lowers from Rusty's that'll allow 2" of adjustment. I'm thinking 2" should be enough to push it back enough to correct the angle without losing much in the spline engagement in the driveshaft.
lowers? push it back? that is going to mess up your drive shaft angle even worse.
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Old 04-17-2009, 12:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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lowers? push it back? that is going to mess up your drive shaft angle even worse.
not necessarily, when setting up the pinion/drive shaft angle, with a regular drive shaft(non CV, one u-joint at each end), you want the pinion to be at the same angle(paralell) to the T-case output. with a CV style shaft, you want the pinion pointing directly at the T-case output.

so, sense he's still running the stock shaft, in theory, longer lower control arms would rotate pinion down, which would HELP the drive line angles.
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Last edited by muddyj; 04-17-2009 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 04-17-2009, 03:51 PM   #13 (permalink)
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not necessarily, when setting up the pinion/drive shaft angle, with a regular drive shaft(non CV, one u-joint at each end), you want the pinion to be at the same angle(paralell) to the T-case output. with a CV style shaft, you want the pinion pointing directly at the T-case output.

so, sense he's still running the stock shaft, in theory, longer lower control arms would rotate pinion down, which would HELP the drive line angles.
My thoughts exactly. I'm trying not to sink too much $ into it as I'm saving for a 1 ton front to go with a 1 ton rear I already laid hands on and the materials to 4-link and stretch it. I'd need a new driveshaft then, no sense buying 2 different length new rear driveshafts if I can get by with a set of adjustable rear lowers for $169/pair for now.

Edit - And my factory lowers are beat to shit anyway, so replacing them with the Rusty's ones kills 2 birds with one stone.
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