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Old 06-17-2009, 07:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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jeep stretch questions.

hello everybody,
I have a jeep cj7 with fullwidth dana 60's front and rear.





the front has a warrior shackle reverse and stock YJ springs on the outside of the framerail.

the rear has rancho 2.5 springs under axle with a piece of 2.4 square tubing between the frame and spring mounts and I drilled the spring perches for a bout a 1 inch rear stretch.

right now the wheelbase is at about 96"

I also have front and rear revolver shackles.


a friend of mine gave me a set of XJ rear springs for a rear stretch.
I hear that its good for four inches.
but, it looks like Im gonna have to modify the rear shackle mounts, so Im thinking that if Im gonna go ahead and do this, I might as well do dodge dakota rear leaves and get 10 inches.

does anybody have any words of wisdom about this?

Last edited by surfer dude; 06-17-2009 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 06-17-2009, 07:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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water you going to do about your gas tank?
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Old 06-17-2009, 08:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Words of wisdom? hmmm, don't use revolver shackles.
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Old 06-17-2009, 08:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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right now I have an aerotank that Ive already clearanced for the rear D60, so I have no clue as to what Im gonna do there.
But I do know that I will not be instaling any type of fuel cell inside the tub.

the revolvers suck, I figured that out the first time I went to the desert with them.

Im gonna change them out, if anyone in the southern california area has a set conferr stockers for sell, let me know

what year dakota springs should I be looking for?
2wd or 4wd?
because I found a set off of a 96'

Ihave a 91 corvette TPI motor in it.
any suggestions about axle wrap?

Last edited by surfer dude; 06-17-2009 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 06-18-2009, 07:36 AM   #5 (permalink)
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hello everybody,
I have a jeep cj7 with fullwidth dana 60's front and rear.





the front has a warrior shackle reverse and stock YJ springs on the outside of the framerail.

the rear has rancho 2.5 springs under axle with a piece of 2.4 square tubing between the frame and spring mounts and I drilled the spring perches for a bout a 1 inch rear stretch.

right now the wheelbase is at about 96"

I also have front and rear revolver shackles.


a friend of mine gave me a set of XJ rear springs for a rear stretch.
I hear that its good for four inches.
but, it looks like Im gonna have to modify the rear shackle mounts, so Im thinking that if Im gonna go ahead and do this, I might as well do dodge dakota rear leaves and get 10 inches.

does anybody have any words of wisdom about this?
We offer a rear stretch kit that has the rear shackles built into the bumper and uses XJ springs to give you about six inches stretch



And Link to product http://bluetorchfab.com/store/produc...roducts_id=114
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Old 06-18-2009, 08:14 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I did rear leafs on my TJ by building a bumper then mounting Ruffstuff's "way back shackle hangers" to it. You can check out my build thread link in my sig to see what I did.

BTW I'm using XJ springs reversed for some stretch like you plan to.
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Old 06-18-2009, 08:53 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Smile

but what about the dakota rear leafs;
what year should I be looking for?
2wd or 4wd?
does it matter?

does anyone have pics of what it will look like with either jeaves?

are there any other leafsprings that I should be considering?

I figure that if Im gonna do it,
I should do it the best way possible

without moving the front hanger what is the best way to stretch this bad boy out.
Its gonna be a mostly street jeep
but I am planning on driving out to the johnson valley area.
and then driving back home

Last edited by surfer dude; 06-18-2009 at 09:07 AM.
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Old 06-18-2009, 09:01 AM   #8 (permalink)
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so far Im planning on getting some 3x5 or 6 square tubing and making a new tire carrier bumper, with some sackle hangers hanging of the back.
Ill probably also use it as an air tank for my front and rear arb's

I already built a pretty solid rear crossmember, so I figure that Ill just weld the new square tube bumper onto that.
but Im probably gonna need a hinge for the tire carrier
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Old 06-18-2009, 09:13 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I did the dodge dakota rear leaves on my YJ. My donor was a 2002 dodge 4x4 model. I removed the overload, replaced it and threw em on and turned em into as "S" shape my first major outing and destroyed my rear u-joint in the same weekend. Im currently working on a anti-wrap bar, but need to modify my work to make it work.(havn't even started that yet) Axle wrap sucked. Soo. I tore down the spring pack, added a full length support leaf under the main leaf and added another leaf in mid pack. Now my spring pack is a 6 leaf instead of the 4 leaf. Axle wrap is under control now.

And I am running about 300-320HP on my motor also. Build Details are in my signature below. And dodge leafs gave me a 10" rear stretch. I built my own shackle hangers off my rear bumper.
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Old 06-18-2009, 09:46 AM   #10 (permalink)
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what is the absolute best wheelbase for my jeep
Ive heard 100" all the way to 122"

Ill be on 38's - 40's with leaf spring suspension and low as possible
and Ca. streetlegal

I plan on driving it everyday,
I have othercars, trucks and even a van, but I like my jeep the best
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Old 06-18-2009, 12:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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what about a set of 98 dodge dakota 2wd leaf springs?
the dude wants 150 bucks

I also have this set of xj's
so what if I combine the two

I was reading about using a main from the xj as a military wrap and the the second leaf as a snailwrap

what do you think?

Last edited by surfer dude; 06-20-2009 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 06-20-2009, 10:50 AM   #12 (permalink)
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OK so I scored the dakota leaves from a 98 2wd for 100 bucks

I now have the old rancho 2.5 cj springs, stock xjs, and now these dakota rears.

yesterday I half assedly threw them both on to see which Id like better.
the xjs might be a little easier to fab up and extend my wheelbase to ~ 101.5 inches.
the dakotas extended my wheel base to ~ 106.7 inches
but will require extending the frame and adding a new crossmember, while Im at it I'll probably extend the tub.

IM thinking that the dakotas will ride better, due the extra length.
the xjs on back seem softer than my front yjs.
while the dakotas seem slightly stiffer.

both will require me to relocate the E-brake cable mount, new shock mounts and a longer drive shaft.

Im also thinking of swapping out my rear dana 60 for a 14-bolt because If I do a new rear drive shaft now I dont want to have to do it again later.

any ideas on what I should use or do to bastardize my dakota springs?
I was thinking of using the xjs on the dakotas

anyone have any pics?
Its raining today but Ill get some pics later.

oh yeah, whats a good shackle angle spposed to look like?

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Old 06-20-2009, 04:05 PM   #13 (permalink)
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read my thread, it will give you ideas. My rear shackle angle is about 45 degrees back with about 5" inches of uptravel and 7" down travel. I just went with a longer brake line to the rear axle. I did not extend my frame or build any cross member. I just welded up my shackle mounts to my rear bumper and made sure I was running grade8 hardware holding rear bumper on. Its not that hard.
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Old 06-20-2009, 10:14 PM   #14 (permalink)
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yeah,
I read it, a bunch of times
some real good stuff there,
THANK YOU for posting it for people such as my self.

I guess thats the plan.

As for my gastank, Im gonna search the junkyards and try to find a plastic gastank that I can mount parallel to the driveshaft.
maybe even dual tanks with a TJ filler on each side would be sweet.

Do you think its a good idea to cut the middle crossmember completely out of there?
because to me it looks like all its good for is holding up the forward part of the old tank, and maybe the hard brakeline.

Last edited by surfer dude; 06-20-2009 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 06-21-2009, 07:39 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I really like the way the wheels seem to tuck under. Kinda off topic but what size wheels are those and what backspacing? I'm putting a set of full widths under a CJ6 and I like the look of yours........
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Old 06-21-2009, 09:04 AM   #16 (permalink)
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springs

i would just do the xj springs for now. the dakota springs are gonna take a lot of work and at that pint u may as well link it with air shocks or something. i did the xj springs on my old cj on 40s and i liked it a lot. it gave me about 6 inches and i built my own bumper like the blue torch kit. make sure you do a traction bar cause they wrap a lot. i would also use a add a leaf or small lift springs to keep them from wearing out. i did stock springs from the junkyard cause they were so cheap but i replaced them every season. i ran a rci cell behind the rear seat
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Old 06-21-2009, 10:59 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Happy Fathers Day

My wheels are 18x12 pacers Im not sure of the backspacing




and those are the wide TJ flares.

Ive had this jeep for about 18 years, My stepfather gave it to me. Its always been my favorite ride

right now its sporting a 91 corvette L98 tpi motor w/vintage air AC, 700r4, dana300, the front is a kingpin D60, the rear is a D60 out of a 69 doge powerwagon.


the interior has a diamond plate dash w/ 5"autometer phantom gauges, and cerello seats. But Im gonna redo this also with 3" autometer vintage gauges, mostly because Im not happy with the defroster. IVe also gonna install some tan classic lowback seats Because the high side bolsters on the cerellos rack my nutz everytime I get in and out of it and Im over everything always being black. Ive had some help from a couple of friends over the years but Ive done most of it.

Last edited by surfer dude; 06-21-2009 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 06-21-2009, 11:16 AM   #18 (permalink)
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here it is ith the XJ springs:
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...3ab01fa2db.jpg

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...f6fb6124bf.jpg


sorry about the lousy photography

Those are pieces of 4x10 between the leaves and the frame so about 7 inches from spring eye to frame and its 1 inch higher than the front bumper. when its all loaded up for whatever it should sit perfect.

today Im gonna strip the old hangers and mounts off the rear end and mock up the dakotas to see which I like better, but IM leaning towards the dakotas.

I also dug up a set of stock conferrs for the front end to do away with the revolvers, and the shock towers off of my f250 for the rear end possibly.


For the axle wrap, Im thinking of doing a Sams Off Road traction bar.



as for the gastank, IT will be underneath the tub. Im thinking of doing a 15 gallon or so plastic tank that runs parallel with the driveshaft. Im gonna have to scour the boneyards to find what IM looking for.

OK so now I need some grinding wheels for my angle grinder.
Ill have some pics later.
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Old 06-21-2009, 12:41 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Words of wisdom? hmmm, don't use revolver shackles.
whats wrong with revolver shackles
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Old 06-21-2009, 01:26 PM   #20 (permalink)
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whats wrong with revolver shackles
Everything. They can actually be dangerous. Search it out.



Surfer Dude, make sure you post up when you find the gas tank you're looking for. I know there's a lot of interest in something like that, my own included. A lot of us are all in the same boat by not being able to stretch without losing the rear space for a fuel cell or buying an expensive genright tank.
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Old 06-21-2009, 02:51 PM   #21 (permalink)
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OK Ill post up for whatever I find.
I thought up the idea for it when I was laying underneath my jeep checking it out.
My superduty was parked next to it, and since its lifted too I had a direct line at its gas tank. I was just like, hey thats a great idea.
Im gonna do it.

Ive got my rear end stripped and Im getting ready to bolt it all up.

but first,
heres a very important question:

can I take the dakota leaves apart and flip the pin to the bottom of the pack?

the reason is that my new spring perches do no have a hole big enough for the nut on the bottom, but they're just right for the pin on top.
And I dont have a big enough drill bit.

oh yeah, and what I dont like about the revolvers is that when Ive gone down really steep hills they seemed to want to extend at just the wrong time making you want to flip forward. when I catch some air they extend extra and that sucks. they increase body roll. they clank.
but their cool, when you do those really cool poser shots which show how much flex you have.

Last edited by surfer dude; 06-21-2009 at 02:55 PM.
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Old 06-21-2009, 03:27 PM   #22 (permalink)
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OK Ill post up for whatever I find.
I thought up the idea for it when I was laying underneath my jeep checking it out.
My superduty was parked next to it, and since its lifted too I had a direct line at its gas tank. I was just like, hey thats a great idea.
Im gonna do it.

Ive got my rear end stripped and Im getting ready to bolt it all up.

but first,
heres a very important question:

can I take the dakota leaves apart and flip the pin to the bottom of the pack?

the reason is that my new spring perches do no have a hole big enough for the nut on the bottom, but they're just right for the pin on top.
And I dont have a big enough drill bit.

oh yeah, and what I dont like about the revolvers is that when Ive gone down really steep hills they seemed to want to extend at just the wrong time making you want to flip forward. when I catch some air they extend extra and that sucks. they increase body roll. they clank.
but their cool, when you do those really cool poser shots which show how much flex you have.
Yes, you should be able to just flip the pin. I've done it on my CJ springs. BUt before you button everything up, I'd replace it. Just like I would not reuse ubolts after they have been ran on and stretched out.

Use a couple C clamps and clamp the spring pack down next to the centering pin, remove the pin and flip it around. Simple.
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Old 06-21-2009, 07:44 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Ok,
I clamped it, and flipped it.

heres some pics:







Im gonna need about 11-1/2 inches of new drive-shaft


and Im gonna have about this much to plaay with:



Im still not sure what Im gonna do,
but the ideas are flowing.
thats all for now Im gonna go and catch a sunset surf
peace
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Old 07-01-2009, 02:45 PM   #24 (permalink)
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OK, so I think I know what I want to do to my jeep.
first I have to strip it down a little more
from this:

to this:


1. Im gonna stretch the tub to accomodate more rear passenger legroom and utilize the newer jeep unlimited softtops. rather than do a smaller stretch and have a custom softtop made.

1a. Im gonna cut the tub in half just before the raised floor section of the backseat, but the rear quarter panels will still be left intact.

this should give the rear passengers much more legroom.

1b. Then Im gonna cut the rear quarter panel along the rear seam and move the entire raised rear floor and wheelwells back.

this should put me back to this much rear overhang even with my old gastank.




1c. then reweld the tub and fill in where necessary


2. Im gonna stretch the frame increasing wheelbase and still utilize existing aerotank with the new dakota rear leaves.

2a. Im gonna cut the frame in half somewhere between the rear crossmember and the rear spring hanger (about at the hole in the frame) and move entire rear-half of the frame back. then I will reposition the front hangermounts and rear axle in relation to how my gastank mounts. it should look alot like it did before I started messing with the springs.



2b. using 3.5" channel and some plugwelds, Im gonna sleeve the inside of the factory frame, then using 2.5x4x1/8 square tubing I will splice it back together, then using 1/4 inch plate I will plate around the splice.


Now for my big question:
how far back should I stretch it, so that I can use an unlimited softtop?

Ive searched and have seen all different kinds of answers ranging from 10"-15"

how far back should I move the rear most part of my tub?
this should be how much I need to splice into the frame?
I think...

Last edited by surfer dude; 07-01-2009 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 07-20-2009, 06:25 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Its been a cople of weeks since Ive updated and not alot has happened
besides gathering up some essential shop equipment.
I went out and bought an older lincoln sp 200 mig welder


Thats my old little weldpak 100 on top of the big one





and the delta 17-900 drill press

so far I have only begun to fabricate my frame splice peices
Im going with 15"s of stretch.









Ive still got some deburring to do to the framesplices.
Im also gonna pull the tub off to be able to prep the frame, a little more easily.

Once I cut the frame in half. Im gonna use flat bar to sleeve the inside of the frame and then I will install the framesplice onto the flatbar sleeve that I make. I already have some channel, but I think 3/16 flatbar will be better. Using rosebud welds and some stitch welds I should be able to get it all back together, nice and stout.

any advice, or words of wisdom?
Ive never done this before!
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